Yongnuo YN-622C Controller Trigger

Yep, your wireless shutter trigger receiver plugs into the cable release port of your camera.

talbot_sunbeam wrote in post #15244397
Yep, your wireless shutter trigger receiver plugs into the cable release port of your camera.

Sorry, not quite sure about this. Do you mean that the PC port from the 622 on the camera needs to be plugged into the camera and then a free 622 when fired will trigger the camera and other lights ?

Alexam wrote in post #15245209
Sorry, not quite sure about this. Do you mean that the PC port from the 622 on the camera needs to be plugged into the camera and then a free 622 when fired will trigger the camera and other lights ?

No, as already said, the 622 won't trigger a shutter. I use a cheap RF602, my previous flash trigger. It has a cable you connect the receiver to the cable release port with.

So hitting the shutter button on the RF602 transmitter trips the camera, which fires the flashes etc with 622's... Works well.

Alexam wrote in post #15244167
Thanks Clive, can you expand on that please. If it's possible to trigger the shutter wirelessly when using the 622's, I would like to know about it .

My original sentence was not clear.

The 622 cannot be used as a shutter release. It does not have shutter release capabilities. Some other cable or radio device designed for the purpose is required. It should have wake-up and 2-stage action.

Alexam wrote in post #15245209
Sorry, not quite sure about this. Do you mean that the PC port from the 622 on the camera needs to be plugged into the camera and then a free 622 when fired will trigger the camera and other lights ?

Please, drop the idea that a 622 might be usable as a shutter release. It cannot.

CliveyBoy wrote in post #15241959
Some people are puzzled by the three LED [GP] indicators they see on the transmitter. Here's the story.

The 622 is always a receiver.
It can have added transmitter/controller functions when driven by a camera.
It can have added functions when it is a transmitter with a flash on-top.
There are two group functions, both of which are remembered during power-down - Lighting group, and Testing group.

622 Receiver
Press [GP] to see the lighting group the unit belongs to.
Hold [GP] to change the lighting group.
Hold [Test] and [GP] to set the testing group.

622 mounted on camera
On power-up, the current lighting group will be shown for a few seconds,
The 622 is still only a Receiver. It requires a half-shutter, or the camera's External Flash Control menu to be opened to invoke the 622's transmitter functions.
Pressing [GP] will still show the receiver-mode lighting group setting.

622 running as transmitter
When the transmitter functions are invoked, the selected channel LED will wink several times.
The group LED will also wink to indicate not the lighting group but the Wireless Firing group set in the menus:
None - Wireless disabled (stand-alone mode)
A LED - Wireless enabled, Firing group A+B+C
B LED - Wireless enabled, Firing group A:B
C LED - Wireless enabled, Firing group A:B C
Pressing [GP] will still show the receiver-mode lighting group setting.

On-top flash
There is no indicator for this.
It is always A, as decreed by Canon. It is a Master Flash (with the 622 handling the Master part).
The flash's LCD will show the flash settings for All (mirroring group A)

Example:
622 set to lighting group B.
Camera previously to Wireless enabled, Firing group A+B+C
622 then mounted on camera and powered up. B will wink.
Half-shutter. A will wink as 622 now a transmitter showing current firing group.
Press [GP] and B will light briefly.

A quirk:
On a hand-held 622, set testing group to A. The on-top flash wil not fire.
Set testing group to B. The on-top flash will fire.
So, for testing purposes, the on-top flash is in the transmitter's group (B in example) and not in A!
At this point, the 622 and mounted flash is simply just another remote.
Remember to set testing group back to All (ABC).

When I first received them, I was initially confused by the different signals that the 622 group led is signifying when in transmitter compared to receiver mode. The above is a good explanation.

talbot_sunbeam wrote in post #15245282
No, as already said, the 622 won't trigger a shutter. I use a cheap RF602, my previous flash trigger. It has a cable you connect the receiver to the cable release port with.

So hitting the shutter button on the RF602 transmitter trips the camera, which fires the flashes etc with 622's... Works well.

Ahhh, so if I piggy-back my RF 602 receiver on top of the 622C and link the 602 to the camera, I can trigger th camera with the 602 transmitter and still have the setup of 622C's working as well?

Alexam wrote in post #15245868
Ahhh, so if I piggy-back my RF 602 receiver on top of the 622C and link the 602 to the camera, I can trigger th camera with the 602 transmitter and still have the setup of 622C's working as well?

No, no, no! The shutter must be triggered first. The flashes are triggered by the camera, when it is good and ready.

One is human-driven and is the initiating action. The other is camera driven and occurs after the camera has performed many operations, including the long autofocus lens action.

Use a specific shutter-release system connected to the shutter-release socket on the camera.

Place a 622 trigger in the camera's hot-shoe. The camera will fire it when the shutter is ready, not when it is called into action.

You are asking the egg to create the chicken to lay itself!

Edit: Do you realise that the shoe on top of the on-camera 622 is a HOT-shoe? It will trigger the 602 as if it is a flash. It is not a place to "park" a 602. Radio interference is a major problem, and you want to place another radio device on the same band withinin millimetres of the 622 transmitter! Not wise.

CliveyBoy wrote in post #15246168
No, no, no! The shutter must be triggered first. The flashes are triggered by the camera, when it is good and ready.

One is human-driven and is the initiating action. The other is camera driven and occurs after the camera has performed many operations, including the long autofocus lens action.

Use a specific shutter-release system connected to the shutter-release socket on the camera.

Place a 622 trigger in the camera's hot-shoe. The camera will fire it when the shutter is ready, not when it is called into action.

You are asking the egg to create the chicken to lay itself!

Edit: Do you realise that the shoe on top of the on-camera 622 is a HOT-shoe? It will trigger the 602 as if it is a flash. It is not a place to "park" a 602. Radio interference is a major problem, and you want to place another radio device on the same band withinin millimetres of the 622 transmitter! Not wise.

Thanks Clive, needed to clarify this before trying anything out. As always, your clarification is greatly appreciated by me and others. It's just that I had hoped I could trigger the camera from a distance, which would have been useful.

Malcolm

Alex,

Take 2 602's. Connect one to the shutter release cable socket, on the side of the camera, and let it hang there. Place the 622's as normal. Walk away.from the camera. Push halfway down on the button, on the 602 in your hand, to activate the.autofocus and wake everything up. Press the rest of the way to.take the picture. The 602 well wirelessly trigger the shutter and the 622 will trigger the flash. If I am understanding Clive correctly.

Alexam wrote in post #15246249
I had hoped I could trigger the camera from a distance, which would have been useful.

Hi, Malcolm.

You can! ("Shutter release", not "trigger", the camera) Just not with the 622 in the shutter release chain.

MedicinSC has it right.

602TX in hand ~> 602RX connected to camera shutter release port by appropriate cable. Let the 602RX hang from the camera tripod so that it is at least 9 inches from the top of the camera.

622 flash trigger on camera hotshoe ~> 2x (622 + flash). Keep the fourth 622 as a ready-to-swap backup when a battery fails.

Each to its own job. I use this configuration frequently to avoid camera shake in close-up photography.

Hi folks, I remember reading some talk a few pages back about batteries. I currently have some Eneloops in my 568's and my 622's. Is there anything bad about that? I know I've heard that it's sometimes better to use regular alkaline batteries in triggers and use the Eneloops in the flashes. I have a few of the fancier Eneloops too, the ones with the X's on them that I've been using in my 430EXii, those things recycle really fast, haven't tried them in the 568's yet... I've noticed the recycle time is a bit slow with the regular Eneloops.

Just received an email from New Harbor that the shipment of my order was affected by Sandy. No clue when it'll come. good thing i'm not in a hurry.

YN-622C low-power threshhold = 2.2 volts.
Nominal NiMH - 1.2 volts, x2 = 2.4 volts.
You are on the way out before you start.

Nominal alkaline - 1.5 volt, x3 = 3.0 volts.
Plenty of head room.

Fortunately, rechargables just charged on a good quality (expensive) charger may top up to 1.34 volts, but still...

Of course, reliability may not be important.

Hi Clivey, I guess I don't completely understand what you said, but seems like regular alkalines good for longer reliability in the triggers and NiMH would be more power in the flashes?