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Thread started 12 Dec 2012 (Wednesday) 07:54
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How is this achieved?

 
short_wave
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Dec 12, 2012 12:43 |  #16

jrafael wrote in post #15357710 (external link)
Like I mentioned, you can also use the Yongnuo YN-622C triggers for this, instead of pocket wizards and save a big $$$

YN-622C looks awesome! 1/8000 sync?!?!


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Vapour1ze
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Dec 12, 2012 12:44 |  #17

^ Yes, very cool triggers. :) But I heard yungnuo is coming out with another set very soon, to be cross compatible with the current 603's =]


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short_wave
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Dec 12, 2012 12:46 |  #18

Really interested in those triggers! Not to hi-jack the thread, but are the compatible with Alien Bees or Einsteins?


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Vapour1ze
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Dec 12, 2012 12:47 |  #19

I dont believe there is a port on these like on the 603's... from what I've read. (don't hold me to that though)


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Leffe67
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Dec 12, 2012 12:49 |  #20

lukestrothman wrote in post #15358064 (external link)
^ Yes, very cool triggers. :) But I heard yungnuo is coming out with another set very soon, to be cross compatible with the current 603's =]

Now that would be convenient!


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jrafael
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Dec 12, 2012 13:10 |  #21

short_wave wrote in post #15358069 (external link)
Really interested in those triggers! Not to hi-jack the thread, but are the compatible with Alien Bees or Einsteins?

Yes, check out this thread for more info:

https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1212530




  
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Dec 12, 2012 17:31 |  #22

lukestrothman wrote in post #15357068 (external link)
Now is this being achieved by basically under exposing the background by like -2 on your camera? so you don't see any blown out high lights or anything? and then just fill the model with the beauty dish? or whatever light modifier is being used? I'm trying to understand how this is accomplished because I would love to replicate or get EVEN CLOSE to these shots with some of my portraits I do outside or even indoors.

In this video Emily is using the Mola Setti (external link) with an Alien Bee (external link) strobe and using remote triggers. I can't tell exactly what model AB but I'm guessing Emily would use the B1600 (external link). She's recently started using the Mola Setti a lot. I assume she's also using an ND/Grad Filter/CPL given the time of day.

You can use a flash with HSS to accomplish this. Or... a brand new AB B1600 is about the same cost as a used 580 EX II although you would also need to buy a portable power supply for the AB (external link). A 580 EX II is more portable but if you're lugging around a large BD like that, it is a moot point. You'd also want a much better lightstand for a good lighting setup like that.


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Vapour1ze
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Dec 12, 2012 17:38 |  #23

SoCalTiger wrote in post #15359187 (external link)
In this video Emily is using the Mola Setti (external link) with an Alien Bee (external link) strobe and using remote triggers. I can't tell exactly what model AB but I'm guessing Emily would use the B1600 (external link). She's recently started using the Mola Setti a lot. I assume she's also using an ND/Grad Filter/CPL given the time of day.

You can use a flash with HSS to accomplish this. Or... a brand new AB B1600 is about the same cost as a used 580 EX II although you would also need to buy a portable power supply for the AB (external link). A 580 EX II is more portable but if you're lugging around a large BD like that, it is a moot point. You'd also want a much better lightstand for a good lighting setup like that.

Thanks for that info! Very appreciated


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BDKR
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Dec 12, 2012 22:10 |  #24

short_wave wrote in post #15357650 (external link)
I have a 430exII and some cheap Yungnuo triggers for OCF use. I have to wait MUCH later in the day to do outdoor strobe work since my triggers sync at 1/250 and my flash is pretty weak.

A good initial set-up (for me) would be an AB1600, PW's, and a Mola Demi.

***Throw some good ND in front of your glass and your 1/250 sync is no longer an issue. Bright day into the sun a 10stop (Not to be confused with a ND10), a 10 stop B+W is a ND1000 filter will drop the light level to a point where you might be able to open up your lens to f/2.8-f/4 and then your flash can provide the key, rim, side or creative fill lighting, because you are no longer shooting with shutter speeds above your sync rate. Lee makes a 10 stop filter it runs around $160 and the holder for it (it is a 4 x4 glass filter) runs about $125. The B+W ND1000 can be had on e-fray for about $125-150.

Note on stacking ND filters: you open yourself up to catching unwanted flare/reflection/ hot spots by stacking multiple pieces of glass on a lens.


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short_wave
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Dec 12, 2012 22:46 |  #25

Awesome info. Thanks!


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jrafael
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Dec 13, 2012 08:04 |  #26

BDKR wrote in post #15360189 (external link)
***Throw some good ND in front of your glass and your 1/250 sync is no longer an issue. Bright day into the sun a 10stop (Not to be confused with a ND10), a 10 stop B+W is a ND1000 filter will drop the light level to a point where you might be able to open up your lens to f/2.8-f/4 and then your flash can provide the key, rim, side or creative fill lighting, because you are no longer shooting with shutter speeds above your sync rate. Lee makes a 10 stop filter it runs around $160 and the holder for it (it is a 4 x4 glass filter) runs about $125. The B+W ND1000 can be had on e-fray for about $125-150.

Note on stacking ND filters: you open yourself up to catching unwanted flare/reflection/ hot spots by stacking multiple pieces of glass on a lens.

You forgot to mention, at this point Auto focus/live view will be useless, because you wont be able to see anything thru the viewfinder/lcd

The configuration you mention its good for stationery objects (landscape, building, etc) not so much for models changing poses every 5 secs.

If you don't have powerfull strobes or speedlights, you can still use a ND2 and then use the Yongnuo YN-622C triggers and get away with 1/1000 sutter speed.




  
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Dec 13, 2012 11:41 as a reply to  @ jrafael's post |  #27

BDKR wrote in post #15360189 (external link)
***Throw some good ND in front of your glass and your 1/250 sync is no longer an issue. Bright day into the sun a 10stop (Not to be confused with a ND10), a 10 stop B+W is a ND1000 filter will drop the light level to a point where you might be able to open up your lens to f/2.8-f/4 and then your flash can provide the key, rim, side or creative fill lighting, because you are no longer shooting with shutter speeds above your sync rate. Lee makes a 10 stop filter it runs around $160 and the holder for it (it is a 4 x4 glass filter) runs about $125. The B+W ND1000 can be had on e-fray for about $125-150.

ND will also decrease the output of the flash proportionately too though. The problem with a weaker flash is that it still will not overpower the sun no matter what else you do so they would still have a problem using it closer to midday. It's not just an issue of sync speed.


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Jan 03, 2013 12:14 |  #28

short_wave wrote in post #15357650 (external link)
I have a 430exII and some cheap Yungnuo triggers for OCF use. I have to wait MUCH later in the day to do outdoor strobe work since my triggers sync at 1/250 and my flash is pretty weak.

A good initial set-up (for me) would be an AB1600, PW's, and a Mola Demi.

I use Canon 430EX IIs, as well, but have never had to wait until late in the day to get good results. Basically, I meter for the background (typically, the sky, so I can get a good, blue sky, in the background), then, using manual settings on the camera AND the flash, adjust for a good balance. The results are consistently good, well-balanced photos. Here are a few examples using a single Canon 430EX II and midday sun:

1.

IMAGE: http://www.710studio.com/assets/images/examples/example1.jpg

2.
IMAGE: http://www.710studio.com/assets/images/examples/example2.jpg

3.
IMAGE: http://www.710studio.com/assets/images/examples/example3.jpg

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CanonVsNikon
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Jan 03, 2013 14:29 |  #29
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^ Not well balanced. Lost all detail




  
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Jan 03, 2013 16:50 |  #30

CanonVsNikon wrote in post #15440032 (external link)
^ Not well balanced. Lost all detail

- "Lost all details" how? The subjects (the part of the shot that is supposed to be the central focus of the image) seem to have all details intact.


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