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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 18 Oct 2011 (Tuesday) 02:36
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Microadjust Software for 5D2

 
El ­ Pedro
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Dec 28, 2012 00:11 |  #1306

I tried using this for Mac with my Canon 6D today. What a pain in the but the program is to install to begin with and then I had connection problems.

Once I had the camera connected and the software all installed I went about getting the testing going. I tried 3 different lenses, 24-105 f4, 70-200 f2.8 ISII and Sigma 35 f1.4. I could not get a result with any of them and used multiple light sources for each lens.

I've sent them off a request for a refund as I don't think the Mac version has all the bugs ironed out yet.




  
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Arob1000
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Dec 28, 2012 00:16 |  #1307

I got this working for my 5D3 today with my Mac, no issues whatsoever. Great program!

My one issue with it is how much light is necessary but it gave me some valuable info on my lenses.


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Tareq
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Dec 28, 2012 06:16 |  #1308

I want to try this program, so what it is called? Where to get it? which version?
How to use it?
And most important, is it really handy and useful you can see with your combos?


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ncsa
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Dec 28, 2012 06:40 |  #1309

Here is their site ... http://www.reikan.co.u​k/focalweb/ (external link).. it answers most of your questions.

Tareq wrote in post #15415613 (external link)
I want to try this program, so what it is called? Where to get it? which version?
How to use it?
And most important, is it really handy and useful you can see with your combos?


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pulsar123
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Dec 28, 2012 06:44 |  #1310

So how much light is necessary? I played a bit with the older (1.6.0) version and 135L + 50D, and was getting pretty random results every time I run the program with exposures ~1/50s. A few times the program was interrupted with the message that the data are too poor for the analysis. Once I added some more light (halogen 500W), with exposures ~1/125s, the results seem to be more consistent, but the final picture on FoCal windows didn't look particularly sharp. My feeling is I probably should go to at least 1/200s at 100 ISO to have solid results.

At what exposures (at ISO 100) do you get reliable results with FoCal?

Also, I noticed that FoCal doesn't obviously defocus the lens between each measurement, and that's not good. In my experiments it is important to do defocus in both directions to get a good idea for the MA parameter.


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Tareq
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Dec 28, 2012 06:55 |  #1311

ncsa wrote in post #15415659 (external link)
Here is their site ... http://www.reikan.co.u​k/focalweb/ (external link).. it answers most of your questions.

Cool, thank you very much!


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Johnny ­ V
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Dec 28, 2012 07:50 |  #1312

Tareq wrote in post #15415613 (external link)
....
And most important, is it really handy and useful you can see with your combos?

For me it worked extremely well nailing the AF adjust with all lenses. My Sigma 85mm f1.4 is dead on.

pulsar123 wrote in post #15415665 (external link)
...
Also, I noticed that FoCal doesn't obviously defocus the lens between each measurement, and that's not good. In my experiments it is important to do defocus in both directions to get a good idea for the MA parameter.

Sure it does! There's a setting where you can tell it to defocus in-between shots. I haven't used the program in a few months so I can't tell you how to get there.


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BrandonSi
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Dec 28, 2012 07:54 |  #1313

pulsar123 wrote in post #15415665 (external link)
So how much light is necessary? I played a bit with the older (1.6.0) version and 135L + 50D, and was getting pretty random results every time I run the program with exposures ~1/50s.

Not sure exactly *how* much light, but obviously more is better. I pull out an X1600 and set the modeling lamp to full and point it at the target, and that's always been sufficient to get around 1/250 or 1/500 depending on the speed/FL of the lens.


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BrandonSi
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Dec 28, 2012 07:57 |  #1314

pulsar123 wrote in post #15415665 (external link)
So how much light is necessary? I played a bit with the older (1.6.0) version and 135L + 50D, and was getting pretty random results every time I run the program with exposures ~1/50s.

Not sure exactly *how* much light, but obviously more is better. I pull out an X1600 and set the modeling lamp to full and point it at the target, and that's always been sufficient to get around 1/250 or 1/500 depending on the speed of the lens.

I was also getting the inconsistent results at one point, but after downloading a much more recent version, and using 50x focal length, I never got those again.

The image can be hard to detect differences (at least to me) between differences of 1 or 2 MA values, but I just decided to trust the program. I do run it twice consecutively to make sure I get consistent results. If I don't get two consecutive results, I run it again, and again until a pattern emerges (I track the value in excel, and save for reference).


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Johnny ­ V
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Dec 28, 2012 07:58 |  #1315

Originally Posted by pulsar123 >
So how much light is necessary? I played a bit with the older (1.6.0) version and 135L + 50D, and was getting pretty random results every time I run the program with exposures ~1/50s.


There still might be camera shake at 1/50s ( even on a tripod ). Try increasing mirror lockup time and/or use brighter light.


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pulsar123
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Dec 28, 2012 09:50 |  #1316

Thanks! 1/250s minimum is what I felt was necessary as well. I'll look for the defocus option - perhaps it's only in the newest version (1.7)? Or may be it is a Pro feature? My version is Plus.

Yes, I can see Defocus listed as a Pro feature. That sucks - I didn't realize such a basic feature will be deemed "Pro".

Which version made your results much more reliable - the 1.7? I can't run it on my laptop because it has a bug on Win XP. I can only run 1.6.0.


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BrandonSi
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Dec 28, 2012 09:56 |  #1317

pulsar123 wrote in post #15416195 (external link)
Thanks! 1/250s minimum is what I felt was necessary as well. I'll look for the defocus option - perhaps it's only in the newest version (1.7)? Or may be it is a Pro feature? My version is Plus.

Which version made your results much more reliable - the 1.7? I can't run it on my laptop because it has a bug on Win XP. I can only run 1.6.0.

1.6.3 maybe? I'm using the latest beta now.. I *was* using 1.0.0.32 ;)

If you have strobe (or two!) with modeling lamps, it helps quite a bit. If you do get strange / inconsistent results, back it up a foot or two and try again. I've found it's pretty picky on distances, though the 50x FL rule worked well for me.


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Dec 28, 2012 11:22 as a reply to  @ BrandonSi's post |  #1318

I use this with my Macbook. You do need a lot of consistent lighting. But that's not a limitation of the software, that's just a limitation of photography ;).

The manual does say what the requirements are. I believe it's EV5. I am usually in the EV7 range.

With my fast primes this isn't a problem because the tests are at F1.4. With my 24-105 F4 it's a bit more troublesome. You can override the default ISO value of 100 if need be.


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tdodd
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Dec 28, 2012 12:03 |  #1319

Here are the lighting recommendations for the latest release. Note that the minimum recommended light is now EV 8. It used to be EV 10. Personally I'd be striving for more than EV 10 if possible and have performed my calibrations outdoors to achieve that. Also, as most of my photography is outdoors I feel calibrating with daylight makes more sense for my needs than with tungsten lights....

3.4 Lighting the Target As the FoCal tests using the target are designed to calibrate or test the performance of the camera and lens AF system as a whole, it is important that the lighting level and quality on the target is appropriate for the test.
The most important factor in lighting the target is consistency of lighting. The following list shows the Do’s and Don’ts of target lighting:

 Do use a light level on the target of EV8 (equivalent to 1/30s at f/2.8, ISO100) or above
 It is recommended that you use incandescent lighting (e.g. halogen lights), or even daylight (diffused or direct)
 Use an EVEN light source which does not cast any pattern on the target

 Do NOT use fluorescent lighting or mains powered LED lighting as these can flicker and cause analysis issues
 Do NOT use daylight on a partly cloudy day when clouds are passing over the sun and significantly changing the light level
 Do NOT backlight the target – for example, don’t attach it to a window or lightbox to raise the light level.




  
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Franz-Olof
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Dec 28, 2012 14:17 |  #1320

I finally got it working with 5D3. and Mac. How? Beats me. Poor lighting and everything but it worked. NExt I will be aiming for better results with better lighting.

Things that may have made it to work:
- take care that when you connect camera, no program opens up automatically
- go into autofocus adjustments in camera when prompted (THIS might be very important)
- screen saver went on for me and destroyed the first round (turn it off)
- if anything goes wrong shut the Focal down and start it up again
- for some reason after one failed try, it messed my camera settings and also the settings for Focal (for example suddenly it was on spot metering). Take care that the settings are correct.

I actually used not the latest beta version but one before that. Might not make a difference, just something I tried along.


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