chugger93 wrote in post #15435117
No kidding? Good advice... I'm going to Disney in Feb, and I'd like to take a shot at fireworks for the first time. So this is the reason I was asking. I really want to nail the shots as close to good as possible.
So rather than doing the black card trick, what is the difference between that and just staying in something like bulb mode for 30 seconds to capture all the fireworks? Thanks again
I find if you shoot for 30 seconds or in bulb you just mostly expose the surrounding area more, the black card trick is best for exposing more than one. I wouldn't expose for too long with that trick either or you'll have all the fireworks too blown out.
Jared Polin did a good video on shooting fireworks recently, you should check it out! Also using your hyperfocal distance will make it much easier than trying to autofocus!
chrismid259 wrote in post #15435175
Lots of fantastic images here! I'm thinking of purchasing this lens. I haven't taken the step to full-frame just yet, simply because I can't afford it. First, I'm getting lenses that I would like to go with a full-frame body when I do finally upgrade.
I'm interested to hear what people think of the 17-40mm on crop-sensor bodies?
I have the 17-40mm on my T2i (my photos above where taken on it) and I love it, it's the lens that's on my camera 90% of the time. I would suggest getting it since it will be a very great upgrade from your kit. Personally I don't like buying EF-S lenses since I don't have the disposable income to keep buying and upgrading lenses.
chugger93 wrote in post #15435192
That was my original thought as well, but wanted to throw it out there. I figure a 15 or 30 second exposure would capture too much and kinda ruin the image as a whole.
I don't think I would shoot anything less than an F8, focus off in the distance on something like the magic castle, probably get a meter read of at least a few seconds for shutter, and then shoot (iso100 probably)...and see what I get.
I'm guessing that is probably my best starting point and then adjust from there (if necessary)
If you see in my photos there's that building in the distance, what I did was set my aperture at f8 and focus at infinity then in live view at 10x I kept focusing closer till the building was nearly out of focus, once it became out of focus I knew where the hyperfocal distance was. So if you make sure the disneyland building is in focus at f8 and live view you should be able to just keep it in manual focus and be able to capture everything sharp.