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Thread started 27 Nov 2012 (Tuesday) 07:12
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Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM (2)

 
chugger93
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Jan 02, 2013 11:44 |  #226

Dlee13 wrote in post #15434823 (external link)
Thanks! Generally I shot at:

17mm
f8
ISO 200
6 sec

I also used a trick for the longer exposures where you get black card or anything like that and hold it in front of the lens between fireworks, this lets you capture more than one in each shot.

No kidding? Good advice... I'm going to Disney in Feb, and I'd like to take a shot at fireworks for the first time. So this is the reason I was asking. I really want to nail the shots as close to good as possible.

So rather than doing the black card trick, what is the difference between that and just staying in something like bulb mode for 30 seconds to capture all the fireworks? Thanks again


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gonzogolf
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Jan 02, 2013 11:54 |  #227

chugger93 wrote in post #15435117 (external link)
No kidding? Good advice... I'm going to Disney in Feb, and I'd like to take a shot at fireworks for the first time. So this is the reason I was asking. I really want to nail the shots as close to good as possible.

So rather than doing the black card trick, what is the difference between that and just staying in something like bulb mode for 30 seconds to capture all the fireworks? Thanks again

You have a couple of considerations, If you do 30 seconds you might end up with too many bursts sitting on top of each other. A lot depends on how widely ranging the shot is. The second is crafting a shot that includes contextual stuff like the magic castle. It might help to think of it in terms you would use for taking off camera flash shots. Use the shutter to control ambient, the aperture to control the intensity of the bursts. (of course changing the aperture will affect the ambient as well)




  
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chrismid259
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Jan 02, 2013 11:59 |  #228

Lots of fantastic images here! I'm thinking of purchasing this lens. I haven't taken the step to full-frame just yet, simply because I can't afford it. First, I'm getting lenses that I would like to go with a full-frame body when I do finally upgrade.

I'm interested to hear what people think of the 17-40mm on crop-sensor bodies?


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chugger93
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Jan 02, 2013 12:04 |  #229

gonzogolf wrote in post #15435158 (external link)
You have a couple of considerations, If you do 30 seconds you might end up with too many bursts sitting on top of each other. A lot depends on how widely ranging the shot is. The second is crafting a shot that includes contextual stuff like the magic castle. It might help to think of it in terms you would use for taking off camera flash shots. Use the shutter to control ambient, the aperture to control the intensity of the bursts. (of course changing the aperture will affect the ambient as well)

That was my original thought as well, but wanted to throw it out there. I figure a 15 or 30 second exposure would capture too much and kinda ruin the image as a whole.

I don't think I would shoot anything less than an F8, focus off in the distance on something like the magic castle, probably get a meter read of at least a few seconds for shutter, and then shoot (iso100 probably)...and see what I get.

I'm guessing that is probably my best starting point and then adjust from there (if necessary)

Thanks gonzo


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gonzogolf
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Jan 02, 2013 13:39 |  #230

chugger93 wrote in post #15435192 (external link)
That was my original thought as well, but wanted to throw it out there. I figure a 15 or 30 second exposure would capture too much and kinda ruin the image as a whole.

I don't think I would shoot anything less than an F8, focus off in the distance on something like the magic castle, probably get a meter read of at least a few seconds for shutter, and then shoot (iso100 probably)...and see what I get.

I'm guessing that is probably my best starting point and then adjust from there (if necessary)

Thanks gonzo

I think thats a sound plan. I try to shoot the fireworks they fire off over the Illinois statehouse each july. Its tricky to find a nice balance. They tend to fire them all in a fairly tight space as they are shooting them above the capitol lawn so long exposure end up with too many bursts obscuring each other. The other issue with long shots is that the shells often have a tracer that leaves a white stem below the burst. I found if I timed the sound of the launch I could get the burst without the stem. I've seen lots of nice work here where they record an entire show over a skyline, but thats never really worked for me.




  
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T2i4me
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Jan 02, 2013 14:09 |  #231

chrismid259 wrote in post #15435175 (external link)
Lots of fantastic images here! I'm thinking of purchasing this lens. I haven't taken the step to full-frame just yet, simply because I can't afford it. First, I'm getting lenses that I would like to go with a full-frame body when I do finally upgrade.

I'm interested to hear what people think of the 17-40mm on crop-sensor bodies?

I did the same thing I bought the 17-40 before my 5D. I used the 17-40 on my T2i and it was fine. But clearly it's no longer a UWA as the FOV changes to 27-65mm, however I already had a 10-22 for that. One thing you don't get is vignetting on the crop.


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gonzogolf
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Jan 02, 2013 14:18 |  #232

chrismid259 wrote in post #15435175 (external link)
Lots of fantastic images here! I'm thinking of purchasing this lens. I haven't taken the step to full-frame just yet, simply because I can't afford it. First, I'm getting lenses that I would like to go with a full-frame body when I do finally upgrade.

I'm interested to hear what people think of the 17-40mm on crop-sensor bodies?

Its an okay lens on a crop, but for the money there are better options in that price range for a crop camera. The problem with getting the lenses first is that if moving to full frame is a fuzzy goal (as in "some day I'm going full frame") then it doesnt make any sense to buy the wrong lens for the job. The canon 17-55 2.8 IS is faster and has IS so its more appealing on the crop. And you can sell them for what you paid when and if you do actually go full frame at a date uncertain. Its different if you have a plan to go full frame in the near future, but if its still a hazy plan buy the best lens for now.




  
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Dlee13
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Jan 02, 2013 20:18 as a reply to  @ gonzogolf's post |  #233

chugger93 wrote in post #15435117 (external link)
No kidding? Good advice... I'm going to Disney in Feb, and I'd like to take a shot at fireworks for the first time. So this is the reason I was asking. I really want to nail the shots as close to good as possible.

So rather than doing the black card trick, what is the difference between that and just staying in something like bulb mode for 30 seconds to capture all the fireworks? Thanks again

I find if you shoot for 30 seconds or in bulb you just mostly expose the surrounding area more, the black card trick is best for exposing more than one. I wouldn't expose for too long with that trick either or you'll have all the fireworks too blown out.

Jared Polin did a good video on shooting fireworks recently, you should check it out! Also using your hyperfocal distance will make it much easier than trying to autofocus!

chrismid259 wrote in post #15435175 (external link)
Lots of fantastic images here! I'm thinking of purchasing this lens. I haven't taken the step to full-frame just yet, simply because I can't afford it. First, I'm getting lenses that I would like to go with a full-frame body when I do finally upgrade.

I'm interested to hear what people think of the 17-40mm on crop-sensor bodies?

I have the 17-40mm on my T2i (my photos above where taken on it) and I love it, it's the lens that's on my camera 90% of the time. I would suggest getting it since it will be a very great upgrade from your kit. Personally I don't like buying EF-S lenses since I don't have the disposable income to keep buying and upgrading lenses.

chugger93 wrote in post #15435192 (external link)
That was my original thought as well, but wanted to throw it out there. I figure a 15 or 30 second exposure would capture too much and kinda ruin the image as a whole.

I don't think I would shoot anything less than an F8, focus off in the distance on something like the magic castle, probably get a meter read of at least a few seconds for shutter, and then shoot (iso100 probably)...and see what I get.

I'm guessing that is probably my best starting point and then adjust from there (if necessary)

Thanks gonzo

If you see in my photos there's that building in the distance, what I did was set my aperture at f8 and focus at infinity then in live view at 10x I kept focusing closer till the building was nearly out of focus, once it became out of focus I knew where the hyperfocal distance was. So if you make sure the disneyland building is in focus at f8 and live view you should be able to just keep it in manual focus and be able to capture everything sharp.


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spiderm0nkey
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Jan 02, 2013 20:19 |  #234

Great fireworks photos Dlee13!!

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Jan 02, 2013 21:45 |  #235

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Jan 02, 2013 22:21 |  #236

spiderm0nkey wrote in post #15437117 (external link)
Great fireworks photos Dlee13!!

QUOTED IMAGE

Thanks spiderm0nkey, great composition on your shot too!


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Jan 03, 2013 00:03 as a reply to  @ Dlee13's post |  #237

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Jan 03, 2013 01:37 |  #238

wow.... i wonder where your light came from.


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Jan 03, 2013 06:25 |  #239

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Jan 03, 2013 06:26 |  #240

Jam13, thats just awesome!




  
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