Yongnuo YN-622C Controller Trigger

iituner wrote in post #15445924
Do not put the flash to the hot shoe of YN-622C!

Hot shoe is rated at 6V. PC port, I think is 250V-300V.

Inside YN-622C installed FZT857 transistor which is targeted at 300V.
Unfortunately it only works on PC-port.

However, I have never had any problems with my studio flashes
with a trigger voltage of 7V.
In my testing, I have many times used the hot shoe adapter to sync my studio flash.

The wealth of information, and even more so the willingness of members to share the knowledge and information with others never ceases to amaze me here on POTN. It is truly well represented here, thanks to members like ituner, whortleberry, cliveyboy et all - so greatly appreciate the efforts!

BigLobowski wrote in post #15446626
The wealth of information, and even more so the willingness of members to share the knowledge and information with others never ceases to amaze me here on POTN. It is truly well represented here, thanks to members like ituner, whortleberry, cliveyboy et all - so greatly appreciate the efforts!

++++ 1

BigLobowski wrote in post #15446626
The wealth of information, and even more so the willingness of members to share the knowledge and information with others never ceases to amaze me here on POTN. It is truly well represented here, thanks to members like ituner, whortleberry, cliveyboy et all - so greatly appreciate the efforts!

Totally agree!

I noticed one unit of 622c sometimes shutdown itself during receiving data from the transmitter...there is no way to wake up it, only turning off and on recovery the unit.
I think the problem is the rechargeable batteries, as some users discussed some pages ago.
I'm using Panasonic E-Volta 2000mAh, 1,2V of course.

amphoto11 wrote in post #15448031
I noticed one unit of 622c sometimes shutdown itself during receiving data from the transmitter...there is no way to wake up it, only turning off and on recovery the unit.
I think the problem is the rechargeable batteries, as some users discussed some pages ago.
I'm using Panasonic E-Volta 2000mAh, 1,2V of course.

Try using standard alkyline batteries.

Although the YN-622 seems to behave with rechargeable batteries, this kind of behavior suggests its the batteries.

I've found its just easier to keep alky batteries around for my triggers.

amphoto11 wrote in post #15448031
I noticed one unit of 622c sometimes shutdown itself during receiving data from the transmitter...there is no way to wake up it, only turning off and on recovery the unit.
I think the problem is the rechargeable batteries, as some users discussed some pages ago.
I'm using Panasonic E-Volta 2000mAh, 1,2V of course.

99% certain this is down to the use of rechargeables. Now I love rechargeables but in this instance, ALL my triggers are on the "old-fashioned (but reliable)" alkalines. The drain is minimal and the voltage overhead of alkalines just makes them so much more reliable for this specific application.

I'll be extremely surprised if changing from rechargeables to alkalines doesn't cure your problem.

On a parallel thought, using an intelligent charger (Maha/Powerex C9000 or Technoline BC-1000 - apologies, they are UK links as my Italian goes no further than 'Ristretto' and 'Espresso' :o) allows you to constantly monitor the state of your rechargeable cells for both voltage and capacity. It may seem overkill but it gives you early warning of a cell starting to fail. Often, it only takes one out of a chain of cells (maybe a chain of 2, perhaps a chain of 4 or even a chain of 8) to fail and your whole trigger/flash/power pack becomes unserviceable. I believe that this is what is happening in your YN-622C. It also saves you carrying a spare set only to find that they don't work.

It may seem OTT but whenever I buy new rechareagbles, I run them through a conditioning cycle (takes about 40 hours which is a PITA). I then make up sets of as near identical cells (voltage & capacity) as I can get and mark them as sets. These then get used in rotation and every tenth cycle, they are fully tested again. It's been years and years since I had a single power source problem so well worth it to me.

Whortleberry wrote in post #15448361
It may seem OTT but whenever I buy new rechareagbles, I run them through a conditioning cycle (takes about 40 hours which is a PITA). I then make up sets of as near identical cells (voltage & capacity) as I can get and mark them as sets. These then get used in rotation and every tenth cycle, they are fully tested again. It's been years and years since I had a single power source problem so well worth it to me.

I have the LaCrosse BC-700 charger, and since getting that I haven't had any failures with rechargeables on any of my devices. I also use good quality batteries, mostly Eneloops, so that helps too. That's why few pages up I wasn't convinced that rechargeables cause trouble, as on my experience it's usually bad cells or improper charging, which is directly not the rechargeable battery's fault. If you keep the batteries in good condition, it's different story.

So all your ranting about alkaline vs. NiMH got me wondering which one to use. So my plan is now: home testing, objects and such, wife etc., I'll use rechargeables to see if they perform 100% or not. When I can't afford to fail or wait, or take the time switching the batteries, I'll use alkaline. If after months down I find the rechargeables don't fail when properly used, I might switch to them.

^^ diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks.
As long as you don't have a problem then that's fine - nothing's compulsory. Many many folks have experiences diametrically opposed to yours.

Whortleberry wrote in post #15448522
^^ diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks.
As long as you don't have a problem then that's fine - nothing's compulsory. Many many folks have experiences diametrically opposed to yours.

From those experiences, I believe rechargeables cause problems. I'm curious to see if good batteries with smart charger will help reduces the likelihood for the problems.

Also NiMH keeps the voltage level more stable until it's drained, whereas alkalines drop voltage more linear:

tpatana wrote in post #15448697
Edit: Btw., I majored in Physics, so it's my nature that if someone tells me X happens, I need to be able to replicate the phenomenon. So partly that's why I want to experiment myself with the NiMHs to see how they fail.

It's good to not just blindly accept what other people tell you, and it's good to do your own investigating to understand the behaviour of your gear.

But it's also good, (as you have done), when a number of people are giving you evidence which contradicts what you believe to be true, to be open minded enough to accept the possibility of a knowledge gap, and look into the issue to then make up a more qualified opinion on the issue - one way or the other.

It's how we learn - none of us knows everything*

Obviously excluding myself in that, of course... hehe

tpatana - that 2.2 volt cutoff figure was provided in an exchange with the design engineer, and my tests on batteries which have produced a shutdown indicate that the warning and shutdown is occuring at that point.

So many assert that their erratic trigger behaviour "won't be the batteries", that the advice I give needs to overcome that unfounded statement. You obviously can look after yourself!

I have around 36 Powerex 2700s in use in flashes. When a set is recharged in the Maha MH-C9000, and one cell is unusually slow (or fast) to recharge, a sticker is placed on it. If the same occurs again on another recharge, I throw it out. At the rate of about 1 per month.

When someone is experiencing erratic behaviour with their YN-622Cs, I urge them to buy fresh alkalines from a high-turnover retailer, and test. The problem goes away, and they know that it can be the batteries. They can then go back to using whatever, with better understanding and discipline, like service-dating of rechargeables. No more "My GF has used them in her thing for two years, so I know they are good!" There is a need to understand that even rechargeables are an expendable item.

There is another factor - with so many flash cells to recharge before an architectural shoot, I am glad to not need to check a further 12 trigger batteries.

dmward wrote in post #15448184
Try using standard alkyline batteries.

Although the YN-622 seems to behave with rechargeable batteries, this kind of behavior suggests its the batteries.

I've found its just easier to keep alky batteries around for my triggers.

Luckily, It happened in some tests in my studio, so nothing to worry about.
It would be very dangerous at cerimony event like weddings: there is no chance of error.
I will carry some set of alky batteries in that occasion.

Whortleberry wrote in post #15448361
99% certain this is down to the use of rechargeables. Now I love rechargeables but in this instance, ALL my triggers are on the "old-fashioned (but reliable)" alkalines. The drain is minimal and the voltage overhead of alkalines just makes them so much more reliable for this specific application.

I'll be extremely surprised if changing from rechargeables to alkalines doesn't cure your problem.

On a parallel thought, using an intelligent charger (Maha/Powerex C9000 or Technoline BC-1000 - apologies, they are UK links as my Italian goes no further than 'Ristretto' and 'Espresso' :o) allows you to constantly monitor the state of your rechargeable cells for both voltage and capacity. It may seem overkill but it gives you early warning of a cell starting to fail. Often, it only takes one out of a chain of cells (maybe a chain of 2, perhaps a chain of 4 or even a chain of 8) to fail and your whole trigger/flash/power pack becomes unserviceable. I believe that this is what is happening in your YN-622C. It also saves you carrying a spare set only to find that they don't work.

It may seem OTT but whenever I buy new rechareagbles, I run them through a conditioning cycle (takes about 40 hours which is a PITA). I then make up sets of as near identical cells (voltage & capacity) as I can get and mark them as sets. These then get used in rotation and every tenth cycle, they are fully tested again. It's been years and years since I had a single power source problem so well worth it to me.

Yes, I will try alkalines, even if the discharge "curve" is more linear,nimh have a more soft discharge "curve".
Btw these batteries I've tried on the 622 units are brand new, so, as I know, they need 3-4 charge-discharge cycles to obatin their max performance.
The problem of choosing a good charger is often underrated as you suggested linking me these chargers.
Its very important to use good chargers with charging monitoring...
Dont worry for the UK links, I'll find something similar
You drink Espresso coffe?

I'll do some tests with a digital multimeter... I'd like to figure out the behaviour of these unit with ni-mh batteries by myself.
If you interested in some details please let me know, I'll post them here.