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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Transportation Talk 
Thread started 21 Apr 2008 (Monday) 10:35
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Official Automotive Rigs - DIY Thread

 
izthistaken
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Jan 09, 2013 20:10 |  #8626

Speed TV's Hagerty auction car for this year!

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8502/8366360190_3a9f9897e3_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/matttrombley/8​366360190/  (external link)
Hagerty 2013 Fantasy Bid rig shot (external link) by izthistaken (external link), on Flickr

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5DMKII | 16-35L |24-70L| 70-200L 2.8 II | Canon 50mm 1.8|35mm F2|580ex x2|Lumopro LP160|Nikon SB24|Cybersyncs x3

  
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sabelART
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Jan 10, 2013 10:38 |  #8627

Hi guys.i need some advice about thread size.i've bought 2 in x16 swg (approx 1,6mm wall) aluminium pipe.what size of thread should be the best on pipe like mine?how about sections?better 2x2.5m each or 3x1.66 (approx because its 5m long pipe)


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skopusnik
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Jan 10, 2013 11:30 |  #8628

Can anyone who have Manfrotto Magic Arm or something similar contact me on private? I need a few detail photos, because I want to do it myself. :) Thanks!


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steelbluesleepr
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Jan 10, 2013 16:32 |  #8629

skopusnik wrote in post #15470684 (external link)
Can anyone who have Manfrotto Magic Arm or something similar contact me on private? I need a few detail photos, because I want to do it myself. :) Thanks!

pm sent


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photophilth
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Jan 10, 2013 16:58 |  #8630

sabelART wrote in post #15470483 (external link)
Hi guys.i need some advice about thread size.i've bought 2 in x16 swg (approx 1,6mm wall) aluminium pipe.what size of thread should be the best on pipe like mine?how about sections?better 2x2.5m each or 3x1.66 (approx because its 5m long pipe)

are you using pipe? I would suggest using tubing, as it's more of a structural material compared to pipe.

I think it would be very difficult to thread DIY...it's not impossible though with the right tools and machine or machine shop, but some care must be taken. You would probably need some kind of female/female joint between each length of tube.

I would suggest making ferrules to join the peices. That is, have similar sized tubing machined down a few shaves, literally a few, to make a smooth fit into joining pipes. This is not only more secure than threading (with the addition of nut/bolt of course) but is also resilient to flex and doesn't run the risk of stripping/misthreading sections of pipe. It would suck to have to re-thread a new piece of pipe/tubing.

the ferrules shown below are the machined bit. They slide into the aluminum tubing and secured permanently on one side with a nut/washer/bolt and on the other side secured with a quick release pin of sorts. I believe it's called a cotter pin.

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8034/7984163609_83b7b47e1c_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/a_foto/79841636​09/  (external link)
Rig Build (external link) by Aouadian (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8295/7984163773_373310cec9_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/a_foto/79841637​73/  (external link)
Rig Build (external link) by Aouadian (external link), on Flickr

just my 2cents



  
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sabelART
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Jan 10, 2013 17:41 |  #8631

I meant tubes of course. Im thinkin about your solution as well. Already i have my old booms with joint conections but...i did it with my friend in garage not really properly.there is a little bit of space between tube and joint.so should i try something new or stay with joints?how long these joints you have?mine is about 10-13cm inside of each section.


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photophilth
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Jan 11, 2013 00:24 |  #8632

sabelART wrote in post #15472260 (external link)
I meant tubes of course. Im thinkin about your solution as well. Already i have my old booms with joint conections but...i did it with my friend in garage not really properly.there is a little bit of space between tube and joint.so should i try something new or stay with joints?how long these joints you have?mine is about 10-13cm inside of each section.

they are ~60cm roughly or 2ft per peice, so they extend equally into each piece being joined. You can make them longer...or maybe even shorter, but 60ish cm is a good place to be i'd reckon per the advice I was given.




  
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sabelART
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Jan 11, 2013 01:43 |  #8633

Yeah,sounds good.i will try this asap.need one more tube to buy.many thanks for your advice.


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cal_gecko
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Jan 11, 2013 01:46 |  #8634

I'm working with a friend on a potential solution ... curious what the narrowest aluminum tubing is that can be used... 1.5"? 1.75" ? Also - how important is wall thickness? Is 1/8" thickness enough?


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steelbluesleepr
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Jan 11, 2013 09:20 as a reply to  @ cal_gecko's post |  #8635

here's my steel tubing rig getting a workout again. this thing is REALLY bouncy, i'd like to see what a conduit boom looks like. does anyone have a video?


IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8518/8368836653_cf9a0f2379_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …s/jcareyphoto/8​368836653/  (external link)
Caleb's Black Beauty (external link) by Jcareyphoto (external link), on Flickr

-Jayson- my flickr (external link)
In the bag: 5D mark II+Vello grio/10d+grip/Canon 17-40L/Canon 28-135/Canon 50 1.8/Canon 35-80 Macro Conversion/Vivitar 135 2.8 M42/Vivitar 28 2.5 M42/Yongnuo YN460II x3/Yongnuo RF-602 x3

  
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jp450r
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Jan 11, 2013 15:31 |  #8636

photophilth wrote in post #15472096 (external link)
are you using pipe? I would suggest using tubing, as it's more of a structural material compared to pipe.

I think it would be very difficult to thread DIY...it's not impossible though with the right tools and machine or machine shop, but some care must be taken. You would probably need some kind of female/female joint between each length of tube.

I would suggest making ferrules to join the peices. That is, have similar sized tubing machined down a few shaves, literally a few, to make a smooth fit into joining pipes. This is not only more secure than threading (with the addition of nut/bolt of course) but is also resilient to flex and doesn't run the risk of stripping/misthreading sections of pipe. It would suck to have to re-thread a new piece of pipe/tubing.

the ferrules shown below are the machined bit. They slide into the aluminum tubing and secured permanently on one side with a nut/washer/bolt and on the other side secured with a quick release pin of sorts. I believe it's called a cotter pin.

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/a_foto/79841636​09/  (external link)
Rig Build (external link) by Aouadian (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/a_foto/79841637​73/  (external link)
Rig Build (external link) by Aouadian (external link), on Flickr

just my 2cents

do you know what the two different size tubing was used to make the ferrule type connectors?




  
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nugent
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Jan 11, 2013 20:00 |  #8637

one of my most recent rig shots

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8206/8162862367_b034bf541e_b.jpg

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Kverna
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Jan 12, 2013 07:14 |  #8638

Love that nugent




  
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ULWizSS
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Jan 12, 2013 07:26 as a reply to  @ Kverna's post |  #8639

Anyone know where I can get a Rig-Pro from? Been looking online but cant seem to locate one and send a email and PM to a few members on here? I am from the US as well.




  
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cal_gecko
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Location: Sacramento, CA
     
Jan 12, 2013 09:38 |  #8640

ULWizSS wrote in post #15478345 (external link)
Anyone know where I can get a Rig-Pro from? Been looking online but cant seem to locate one and send a email and PM to a few members on here? I am from the US as well.

Check them out on Facebook... you can send them a message directly through FB.. he responded back to me within a day or two, I think with a pretty detailed response and quote :)

https://www.facebook.c​om/AutomotiveRigPro?fr​ef=ts (external link)


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Official Automotive Rigs - DIY Thread
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