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Thread started 16 Jan 2013 (Wednesday) 12:02
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5Dii diopter adjustment shows the wrong setting

 
CanonLearner
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Jan 16, 2013 12:02 |  #1

Hi, hope this is in the right place! Recently the eyecup of my 5Dii fell off and I carried on using it regardless. During that time the diopter adjuster (little plus/minus wheel to the right of the viewfinder) must have got bashed about, and now in order to get a crisp image it needs to be set way, way over to the left (almost as far left as it will go, minus one click). My eyesight is absoloutely fine, it's the diopter showing the wrong setting.

Any idea how to get it back again? I've tried teasing it back by pulling the wheel away from the camera body with my fingernails, but to no avail. I don't want to pull it about too much in case I do something bad. It's from Hong Kong so sending it back for this isn't really feasible, but it frustrates me because it's so extremely far out of correct. Just one more ''slip'' and I won't be able to get the viewfinder sharp at all!




  
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amfoto1
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Jan 16, 2013 12:44 |  #2

Take off the lens, point the camera toward a nice, bright, even light source and adjust the diopter until the markings on the focus screen are as crisp as possible. That's all you need to do to set the diopter.

The diopter wheel merely provides a limited range of adjustment, to accomodate individual shooter's minor differences in eyesight. It's the same range of adjustment on every camera. If you needed more adjustment than the built-in diopter adjustment can provide, Canon sells separate diopter lenses in various strengths that are part of and replace the standard eyecup. However, since you say your eyesight is fine or if you shoot with eyeglasses or other eye correction on, the built-in range of adjustment is more than enough for most people.


Alan Myers (external link) "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
5DII, 7DII, 7D, M5 & others. 10-22mm, Meike 12/2.8,Tokina 12-24/4, 20/2.8, EF-M 22/2, TS 24/3.5L, 24-70/2.8L, 28/1.8, 28-135 IS (x2), TS 45/2.8, 50/1.4, Sigma 56/1.4, Tamron 60/2.0, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8 IS, 85/1.8, Tamron 90/2.5, 100/2.8 USM, 100-400L II, 135/2L, 180/3.5L, 300/4L IS, 300/2.8L IS, 500/4L IS, EF 1.4X II, EF 2X II. Flashes, strobes & various access. - FLICKR (external link)

  
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CanonLearner
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Jan 16, 2013 12:48 |  #3

That's not the problem. The problem is that the diopter wheel says ''very very far to the left'' when in reality it's at neutral adjustment. I have very good eyesight and the wheel is very far left to get a crisp image. Just one more click and it'll be off the scale of far left setting, so I worry about it going off the scale and not being able to get a sharp viewfinder. I'll edit my original post to make this clearer.




  
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scrane
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Jan 16, 2013 12:58 |  #4

Is the diopter close to a limit optically, or only close to the limit of the scale? Can you continue adjusting beyond the left scale limit?




  
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jwp721
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Jan 16, 2013 13:04 |  #5

This is one of those situations where you can mess up something that is currently working just to try to fix it so that it works the way you think it should.

I have had 3 dSLR's and after setting the diopter the first time I have never messed with the wheel again. I have no clue where the wheel is sitting on my current camera and I don't care.

Leave it alone or send it to Canon.




  
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dexy101
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Jan 16, 2013 13:05 |  #6

Its working fine, try not to bash it again if you did so before.




  
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amfoto1
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Jan 16, 2013 13:05 |  #7

CanonLearner wrote in post #15496447 (external link)
That's not the problem. The problem is that the diopter wheel says ''very very far to the left'' when in reality it's at neutral adjustment. I have very good eyesight and the wheel is very far left to get a crisp image. Just one more click and it'll be off the scale of far left setting, so I worry about it going off the scale and not being able to get a sharp viewfinder. I'll edit my original post to make this clearer.

The only way you will exceed the range provided by the built-in viewfinder diopter adjustment, i.e. "go off the scale", is if your eyesight actually isn't as good as you think it is, or if the camera has deeper issues. On the 5DII, the diopter adjustment provides a range from -3 to +1, which is more than enough for a lot of fine tuning adjustment to individual eyesight. Probably will accomodate 95% of people or more. I wear eyeglasses and shoot with them on. On all my Canon I have to adjsut the diopter slightly, but have never even bothered checking how close it is to one end of the range or the other (because it really doesn't matter, I'll be getting a new eyeglass prescription if and when the range of adjustment is inadequate).

You are misunderstanding the way the diopter adjustement works. There is no way simply by bumping and moving the wheel accidentally that it can get "out of whack" to the point that it can't very easily be adjusted back. When you readjust it for your personal setting it should always return to the same point, if you have it adjusted correctly and nothing else has changed. If "one click from the farthest possible left position" is correct for you, that is your personal "neutral" setting, and it will always be correct for you unless or until your eyesight changes. Someone else using the camera will likely have a different "neutral" setting. It's also likely very few people will adjust and use the diopter set exactly in the middle of the range (equal clicks to both extremes, or what you are refering to as "neutral"). Most will need it set a little one way or another. So long as you are able to achieve a setting where the focus screen markings are nice and sharp, you have nothing to worry about.

If at some point in the future your near eyesight deteriorates beyond the range provided by the built in diopter, you can simply add an accessory diopter to increase the available range of adjustment.

The only way you can exceed the range provided is if your near vision eyesight is worse than you think, or if the camera takes a really hard bump and the focus screen is misaligned or something in the pentaprism is seriously out of whack (in which case repairs are called for). As solidly as the camera is built, those are very unlikely, but you might check that the frame holding the focus screen in place is properly latched closed (see your user manual for more info).

P.S. It occurs to me that if you wear and shoot through eyeglasses that are bi-focal or tri-focal, the diopter adjustment needed might differ or even be more extreme, depending upon what portion of your eyeglasses you are looking through when you shoot. Just a thought. Might need to wear single strength eyeglasses when shooting, if this is a problem.


Alan Myers (external link) "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
5DII, 7DII, 7D, M5 & others. 10-22mm, Meike 12/2.8,Tokina 12-24/4, 20/2.8, EF-M 22/2, TS 24/3.5L, 24-70/2.8L, 28/1.8, 28-135 IS (x2), TS 45/2.8, 50/1.4, Sigma 56/1.4, Tamron 60/2.0, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8 IS, 85/1.8, Tamron 90/2.5, 100/2.8 USM, 100-400L II, 135/2L, 180/3.5L, 300/4L IS, 300/2.8L IS, 500/4L IS, EF 1.4X II, EF 2X II. Flashes, strobes & various access. - FLICKR (external link)

  
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CanonLearner
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Jan 16, 2013 14:20 |  #8

amofoto, you totally missed the point! I have 20/20 vision, I'm like Legolas from Lord of the Rings. But the diopter adjustment is all the way to the left. That's where it is objectively sharp, to a sharp eyed hawk like myself. The middle of the wheel's spectrum would only be suitable for somebody who's barely capable of seeing. SOMETHING has slipped, and if it slips more I won't be able to adjust it to normal-sighted correctness because it'll go off the scale of the wheel - the wheel stops dead at a certain point. So I'd like to know what happened and why, and how it can be fixed, because it's quite possible that it'll happen again.




  
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gonzogolf
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Jan 16, 2013 14:30 |  #9

CanonLearner wrote in post #15496857 (external link)
amofoto, you totally missed the point! I have 20/20 vision, I'm like Legolas from Lord of the Rings. But the diopter adjustment is all the way to the left. That's where it is objectively sharp, to a sharp eyed hawk like myself. The middle of the wheel's spectrum would only be suitable for somebody who's barely capable of seeing. SOMETHING has slipped, and if it slips more I won't be able to adjust it to normal-sighted correctness because it'll go off the scale of the wheel - the wheel stops dead at a certain point. So I'd like to know what happened and why, and how it can be fixed, because it's quite possible that it'll happen again.

We get it, but if its actually working albeit not functioning as you imagine it should, is it worth any cost to repair it? For most of us the answer is its working, leave it alone.




  
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CanonLearner
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Jan 16, 2013 14:33 |  #10

Just thought someone might know what happened and how to fix it, because it was fine when I bought it. I can only imagine that something happened in my soft camera bag because I don't knock it around much. I wouldn't pay money for it right now, but of course if it happened just one more time, that's it! I've got a blurry viewfinder.




  
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gonzogolf
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Jan 16, 2013 14:35 |  #11

CanonLearner wrote in post #15496913 (external link)
Just thought someone might know what happened and how to fix it, because it was fine when I bought it. I can only imagine that something happened in my soft camera bag because I don't knock it around much. I wouldn't pay money for it right now, but of course if it happened just one more time, that's it! I've got a blurry viewfinder.

And then you get it fixed.




  
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John ­ from ­ PA
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Jan 16, 2013 14:35 |  #12

CanonLearner, how old are you? I also have 20/20 vision but because I'm 70 years old I also need reading glasses and significant correction with the diopter adjustment.




  
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CanonLearner
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Jan 16, 2013 14:38 |  #13

Haha, I'm 28 and I don't have a certificate about 20/20 vision, was just making a point that my eyes are n't the issue :)




  
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joeseph
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Jan 16, 2013 14:38 |  #14

CanonLearner wrote in post #15496256 (external link)
in order to get a crisp image it needs to be set way

amfoto1 wrote in post #15496428 (external link)
adjust the diopter until the markings on the focus screen are as crisp as possible.

CL are you using the diopter to get the image sharp, or the markings on the viewfinder sharp?


some fairly old canon camera stuff, canon lenses, Manfrotto "thingy", and an M5, also an M6 that has had a 720nm filter bolted onto the sensor:
TF posting: here :-)

  
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CanonLearner
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Jan 16, 2013 14:43 |  #15

joeseph, the marking on the viewfinder. I understand the diopter thing. I don't want to be in the middle of a shoot with a useless viewfinder after this weird ''slipping'' thing happens again. It got worse over a period of a few weeks and I didn't do anything that weird besides using the camera with the eyecup missing. Obviously if i'm shooting and it goes wrong, I'm going to be very badly compromised. That's why I need to know what's happened and why. It seems risky to have the adjustment as fickle as it seems to be, and so close to the edge of no return.




  
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5Dii diopter adjustment shows the wrong setting
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