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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Sports Talk 
Thread started 30 Jan 2013 (Wednesday) 13:56
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Best setup for soccer match shoot?

 
Celtboy
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Jan 30, 2013 13:56 |  #1

60D with probably my 70-300mm tamaron. Or would a 18-135mm be better? I will be right on the touch line so no real distance to worry about, I also will have free run of all areas and behind both goals. So any tips? Tnx


Canon 60D Gripped,Canon 18-135mm,Tamron 70-300mm,90mm Macro,Tamron 10-24mm Wide and speedlite 430 II.
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Celtboy
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Jan 30, 2013 15:43 |  #2

Bump


Canon 60D Gripped,Canon 18-135mm,Tamron 70-300mm,90mm Macro,Tamron 10-24mm Wide and speedlite 430 II.
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hdgiles
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Jan 30, 2013 16:25 |  #3

The 70-300 will be just fine. The 18-135 will be too short on the short end and not long enough on the long end. And remember, shoot low from the ground, mind your horizons and have fun.




  
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Hannya
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Jan 30, 2013 16:30 |  #4

Hi. If you are behind the goal line, the 70-300 should be enough to get shots in your half of the pitch. Hardly worth bothering when the play is down the other end. If you are on the side line, same thing applies. Main problem will be the aperture of the lens f4-f5.6, so keeping the shutter speed high enough and the iso as high as usable in poor light conditions. Are you shooting under floodlights?


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Celtboy
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Jan 31, 2013 07:50 |  #5

no it will be day light..all be it cloudy id say...:(


Canon 60D Gripped,Canon 18-135mm,Tamron 70-300mm,90mm Macro,Tamron 10-24mm Wide and speedlite 430 II.
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clarence
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Jan 31, 2013 08:16 |  #6

Celtboy wrote in post #15555491 (external link)
it will be day light..all be it cloudy id say...:(

I greatly prefer a cloudy day over harsh sun for shooting field sports. The overcast skies give soft light... like a giant softbox. No harsh shadows. Easier dynamic range... no need to worry choosing between losing details in the shadows or blowing out the whites.


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DC ­ Fan
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Jan 31, 2013 13:20 |  #7

Celtboy wrote in post #15552772 (external link)
60D with probably my 70-300mm tamaron. Or would a 18-135mm be better? I will be right on the touch line so no real distance to worry about, I also will have free run of all areas and behind both goals. So any tips? Tnx

Actual soccer pictures from a Canon 60D and a Tamron 70-300mm optical stabilizer lens.

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE


Focal Length: 300.0mm
Aperture: f/5.6
Exposure Time: 0.0003 s (1/4000)
ISO equiv: 800
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE


Focal Length: 300.0mm
Aperture: f/5.6
Exposure Time: 0.0005 s (1/2000)
ISO equiv: 1250
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB

For no reason other than sitting convenience, these images were taken from the center line. A fast shutter speed seemed to be the best choice on sunny days to stop action. The main "setting" is the ability to track the action and keep it in frame.



  
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ajaffe
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Feb 02, 2013 16:59 |  #8

Shutter priority?


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XBAMBOBEE
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Feb 12, 2013 13:27 |  #9

DC Fan wrote in post #15556552 (external link)
Actual soccer pictures from a Canon 60D and a Tamron 70-300mm optical stabilizer lens.


Focal Length: 300.0mm
Aperture: f/5.6
Exposure Time: 0.0003 s (1/4000)
ISO equiv: 800
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB

Focal Length: 300.0mm
Aperture: f/5.6
Exposure Time: 0.0005 s (1/2000)
ISO equiv: 1250
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB

For no reason other than sitting convenience, these images were taken from the center line. A fast shutter speed seemed to be the best choice on sunny days to stop action. The main "setting" is the ability to track the action and keep it in frame.

what is the advantage of using matrix metering over evaluative or spot metering?


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DC ­ Fan
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Feb 12, 2013 15:15 |  #10

XBAMBOBEE wrote in post #15602503 (external link)
what is the advantage of using matrix metering over evaluative or spot metering?


Matrix metering is evaluative metering by another name. When the light is good, it just works well without any complication.




  
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Grumpy_one
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Feb 19, 2013 12:46 as a reply to  @ DC Fan's post |  #11

As far as tips go, show up early, shoot the team on the filed already and test some shutter speeds. Sometimes it's good to show some motion vs stopping all action, as long as the face is sharp, it'll take some practice. If you use AWB and non manual settings (P, AV, TV) , you'll get some color shift depending if you're shooting towards light source (sun) or shadow. I'll pick a manual WB for that reason. I don't like having the camera deciding for me. Problem is on a sunny day, you're shooting either into the sun or away from it at any particular moment depending where the ball is. A change in shutter speed if not set in manual will give you a color shift. If the game is towards evening time your light is changing every moment. Don't let the manual settings get away from you. Your going to be always adjusting. My 7D will do 8 fps and pretty much an unlimited buffer when set to JPG. Add RAW and the buffer will suffer, and I'm using a 64gb 400x card (transend). I use single point focus for all my sports (just about everything else too). AI Servo. High frames. That's it off the top of my head, good luck have fun.

I shoot as wide open as possible, 2.8 on my 70-200. I get purple fringing time to time, but I like the bokah.


I shoot Canon's
1DX II, Canon 7D Gripped, 5D3, 24-70L II, 70-200L 2.8 IS Mk I, 85 1.8, Pocket Wizard II triggers, assorted speedlites and modifiers, 580EX, 580EXII, YN560's (6 or so) 50 1.4, t/c 1.4 MkII
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Best setup for soccer match shoot?
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