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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 04 Feb 2013 (Monday) 16:10
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please advise whether this 456 is sharp?

 
dalplex
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Feb 04, 2013 16:10 |  #1

hi,

i thought my 400 F5.6 is not sharp. however, i could be totally wrong or can not handle it.

this picture is taken by 5ds II with 1.4 III TC, on 161MK2B tripod.

mirror up with wireless remote shutter.

only been sharpened in raw and converted by DPP with quality setting of 10, resize to 1024.

second one should be native without TC, hand hold with 30D.

please make your judgment, what am i suppose to do to make it sharper?

very appreciated for your kindly input

thanks

IMAGE: http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/6995/12dj9418.jpg
IMAGE: http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/4439/008ej.jpg

30D, 7D, 5D III. D200, D700, D800E.
AF-S 14-24 /2.8G, 200/2G VR2. 16-35 /2.8 L II, 50 /1.4, MP-E 65/2.8, 85 /1.2 L II, 100 /2.8 L, 135 /2 L, 180 /3.5 L, 70-200 /2.8 L IS II, 1.4x III. 430 EX II, YN 568EX, 161MK2B, WH 200 II.

  
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n1as
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Feb 04, 2013 16:17 |  #2

Your file is HUGE. Forum rules say the limit is 1024 x 1024.

Don't try to evaluate the lens with a TC attached. First establish whether or not the lens itself is sharp.

Shoot in live-view and manually focus. A sharp lens that doesn't focus properly will look soft. If you shoot in raw, apply some (not lots) of sharpening.

You don't have to use a tripod, but it would be very wise to at least brace the camera / lens against something steady and keep the shutter speed high (1/1000).


- Keith
http://darwinphoto.zen​folio.com (external link)

  
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archer1960
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Feb 04, 2013 16:23 |  #3

dalplex wrote in post #15572018 (external link)
hi,

i thought my 400 F5.6 is not sharp. however, i could be totally wrong or can not handle it.

this picture is taken by 5ds II with 1.4 III TC, on 161MK2B tripod.

mirror up with wireless remote shutter.

only been sharpened in raw and converted by DPP with quality setting of 8, other wise too big to upload.

please make your judgment, what am i suppose to do to make it sharper?

very appreciated for your kindly input

thanks

Take off the TC; that's the quickest way to improve the sharpness. For a good analysis, don't sharpen it either; just resize to 1024 with best quality .jpg export.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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RobDickinson
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Feb 04, 2013 16:36 |  #4

Take the TC off.
Put the lens on a tripod.
Use 10second timer.
Switch to manual focus.
Pick a target ~20meters away so atmosphere doesnt affect results.
Use live view at 10* zoom and manual focus

Take a shot, crop a 100% pixel view and post it here.

Do the same as above but use autofocus.


www.HeroWorkshops.com (external link) - www.rjd.co.nz (external link) - www.zarphag.com (external link)
Gear: A7r, 6D, Irix 15mmf2.4 , canon 16-35f4L, Canon 24mm TS-E f3.5 mk2, Sigma 50mm art, 70-200f2.8L, 400L. Lee filters, iOptron IPano, Emotimo TB3, Markins, Feisol, Novoflex, Sirui. etc.

  
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dalplex
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Feb 04, 2013 16:37 |  #5

okay.

today is too late, i will do tomorrow with 7D as 1ds does not have live view.

cheers


30D, 7D, 5D III. D200, D700, D800E.
AF-S 14-24 /2.8G, 200/2G VR2. 16-35 /2.8 L II, 50 /1.4, MP-E 65/2.8, 85 /1.2 L II, 100 /2.8 L, 135 /2 L, 180 /3.5 L, 70-200 /2.8 L IS II, 1.4x III. 430 EX II, YN 568EX, 161MK2B, WH 200 II.

  
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n1as
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Feb 04, 2013 19:36 |  #6

archer1960 wrote in post #15572074 (external link)
For a good analysis, don't sharpen it either; just resize to 1024 with best quality .jpg export.

I do not understand this. A RAW image REQUIRES sharpening to counter act the effects of the low-pass filter on the sensor. If you apply to much sharpening, you may think a soft lens is sharp. If you apply no sharpening, even a sharp lens will look soft.


- Keith
http://darwinphoto.zen​folio.com (external link)

  
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AbPho
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Feb 04, 2013 20:22 |  #7

n1as wrote in post #15572813 (external link)
I do not understand this. A RAW image REQUIRES sharpening to counter act the effects of the low-pass filter on the sensor. If you apply to much sharpening, you may think a soft lens is sharp. If you apply no sharpening, even a sharp lens will look soft.

Exactly.


I'm in Canada. Isn't that weird!

  
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archer1960
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Feb 04, 2013 20:23 |  #8

n1as wrote in post #15572813 (external link)
I do not understand this. A RAW image REQUIRES sharpening to counter act the effects of the low-pass filter on the sensor. If you apply to much sharpening, you may think a soft lens is sharp. If you apply no sharpening, even a sharp lens will look soft.

I should have said to use the "default sharpening", not "none". Just leave the sharpening slider at its default. When you export to a max quality jpeg, you'll keep a lot of the sharpness that lower quality throws away.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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dalplex
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Feb 05, 2013 05:38 |  #9

am i correct to understand that raw sharpness would not be affected by customer setting of body, such as contrast and sharpness on RGB? where is suppose to be the default setting of raw? i did see different position of sharpness bar from time to time but i can not remember what was the setting of the body.


30D, 7D, 5D III. D200, D700, D800E.
AF-S 14-24 /2.8G, 200/2G VR2. 16-35 /2.8 L II, 50 /1.4, MP-E 65/2.8, 85 /1.2 L II, 100 /2.8 L, 135 /2 L, 180 /3.5 L, 70-200 /2.8 L IS II, 1.4x III. 430 EX II, YN 568EX, 161MK2B, WH 200 II.

  
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archer1960
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Feb 05, 2013 06:50 |  #10

I'm not sure about the camera settings; I always use Canon's DPP to do the conversion, and it has the sharpness sliders set at 3 by default.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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kin2son
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Feb 05, 2013 06:57 |  #11
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dalplex wrote in post #15574203 (external link)
am i correct to understand that raw sharpness would not be affected by customer setting of body, such as contrast and sharpness on RGB? where is suppose to be the default setting of raw? i did see different position of sharpness bar from time to time but i can not remember what was the setting of the body.

Only applies if you shoot jpeg afaik, raw will always be raw and won't be affected by in camera setting.


5D3 Gripped / 17-40L / Σ35 / 40 Pancake / Zeiss 50 MP / Σ85 / 100L Macro / 70-200 f2.8L II IS / 430 EX II / 580 EX II / Canon 2xIII TC / Kenko Ext. Tubes
EOS M / EF-M 18-55 / EF-M 22f2 / Ricoh GR aka Ultimate street camera :p
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n1as
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Feb 05, 2013 12:58 |  #12

The in-camera settings for sharpness, contrast, etc. are used by the camera to create the JPG image if you're shooting in JPG format. They are also the default view applied to the RAW file if you're shooting in RAW. So, when you bring in the RAW file, you'll be looking at it with those settings applied.

The RAW file itself is not affected by the settings but they do have an affect on how you see it in your editor.


- Keith
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dalplex
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Feb 10, 2013 10:29 |  #13

it seems very difficult to capture the steady moment as it keeping changing even looking through viewfinder or LV.

it is windy today.

default sharpness is 6. it is about 50 meter away. manual focus.
second one was taken by 70200 2.8 is 2 at 200, none is.

IMAGE: http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/6135/015jps.jpg

IMAGE: http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/2690/016pw.jpg

30D, 7D, 5D III. D200, D700, D800E.
AF-S 14-24 /2.8G, 200/2G VR2. 16-35 /2.8 L II, 50 /1.4, MP-E 65/2.8, 85 /1.2 L II, 100 /2.8 L, 135 /2 L, 180 /3.5 L, 70-200 /2.8 L IS II, 1.4x III. 430 EX II, YN 568EX, 161MK2B, WH 200 II.

  
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Simpleboy
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Feb 10, 2013 12:32 |  #14

dalplex wrote in post #15594239 (external link)
it seems very difficult to capture the steady moment as it keeping changing even looking through viewfinder or LV.

it is windy today.

default sharpness is 6. it is about 50 meter away. manual focus.
second one was taken by 70200 2.8 is 2 at 200, none is.
QUOTED IMAGE

QUOTED IMAGE

Well these just look like they are out of focus, compressed and oversharpened. Cant say anything about the lens from these.




  
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RobDickinson
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Feb 10, 2013 13:30 |  #15

I dont think you read my post at all. I'm outa here.


www.HeroWorkshops.com (external link) - www.rjd.co.nz (external link) - www.zarphag.com (external link)
Gear: A7r, 6D, Irix 15mmf2.4 , canon 16-35f4L, Canon 24mm TS-E f3.5 mk2, Sigma 50mm art, 70-200f2.8L, 400L. Lee filters, iOptron IPano, Emotimo TB3, Markins, Feisol, Novoflex, Sirui. etc.

  
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please advise whether this 456 is sharp?
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