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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Astronomy & Celestial 
Thread started 05 Feb 2013 (Tuesday) 01:46
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my first M42 orion

 
calypsob
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Feb 05, 2013 01:46 |  #1

I have been slowly acquiring gear to do astrophotography, much of it is in the mail still, but the other day I realized that I could mount my camera to my CG5 mount using a macro focus rail, which turned out to be a very sturdy and accurate setup.
Mount - Celestron CG5-GT
Camera - Canon T3i unmodded
Lens - Sigma 70-300mm APO
Aperture - F/5.6
ISO - 400
Exposures - 7x 1 minute 10 seconds, un-guided
Darks - 7x 1 minute 10 seconds
Flats - None. I really wish I had taken some, I had no idea I would have vignette problems with a camera lens!
Total Exposure - 7 minutes 10 seconds
Stacked with DSS processed in CS6 as 32 bit tiff
I am looking forwards to this week because my auto guider package, field flattener, and t-thread arrive so I can put my new refractor to use!

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8191/8447107038_a73e7ec0bf_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/70374000@N08/8​447107038/  (external link)
First orion attempt (external link) by LMNO Sunset Deluxe (external link), on Flickr

Wes
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SteveInNZ
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Feb 05, 2013 03:26 |  #2

Congratulations. It's a milestone.


"Treat every photon with respect" - David Malin.

  
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samsen
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Feb 05, 2013 03:36 |  #3

Way to go.
Very nice.


Weak retaliates,
Strong Forgives,
Intelligent Ignores!
Samsen
Picture editing OK

  
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calypsob
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Feb 05, 2013 04:34 as a reply to  @ samsen's post |  #4

thanks everyone. Does a short higher iso exposure pull in more data than a long low iso exposure? I was shooting iso 1600 for 25 seconds, and the image would be completely blown at 35 seconds so I cut my iso down and then decided I didnt want alot of noise so I pushed my exposure lengths and settled at iso 400.


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Celestron
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Feb 05, 2013 11:05 |  #5

That's a very good start however your at the very edge of clipping your BP . You may want to re work the original stacked image and be careful to watch your Histogram and not clip that BP. Also with a rework you can bring out the running man neb much better and adjust the colors better . Always keep in mind that just because the sky looks black doesn't mean the final image is suppose to be so dark you can't see small detail . You want to bring out as much detail as possible without being too dark .




  
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Joe929
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Feb 05, 2013 13:05 |  #6

Very nice.


Canon 7D, 24-105L, 100-400L, Tokina 11-16, 430 ex II
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/50204351@N02/ (external link)
http://joeogden.net/ (external link)

  
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calypsob
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Feb 06, 2013 01:06 |  #7

Celestron wrote in post #15575016 (external link)
That's a very good start however your at the very edge of clipping your BP . You may want to re work the original stacked image and be careful to watch your Histogram and not clip that BP. Also with a rework you can bring out the running man neb much better and adjust the colors better . Always keep in mind that just because the sky looks black doesn't mean the final image is suppose to be so dark you can't see small detail . You want to bring out as much detail as possible without being too dark .

Celestron can you advise any tutorials for editing astro images? I must admit that I used a light pollution removal technique which blackened the image alot, however quite effectively removed the light pollution. It involved duplicating the image into a layer, gaussian blur at 50% then inverting the image, turning down opacity of the inverted and blurred layer until I could see nebulosity of m42 in the original bottom layer and then I merged the two and turned up the blacks in a levels layer. I would like to start out by going in the right direction so I do not develop bad image editing habits so any info is appreciated. also does anyone know why the stars are elongated in the top right? Would flats help this at all? I have a theory that it is lens creep, sigma lenses are notorious for this but then again i suppose it could be barrel distortion? Not sure but next time I am going to use a heavy rubber band to make sure the lens stays permanently at 300mm.


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Celestron
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Feb 06, 2013 15:57 |  #8

calypsob wrote in post #15577923 (external link)
Celestron can you advise any tutorials for editing astro images? I must admit that I used a light pollution removal technique which blackened the image alot, however quite effectively removed the light pollution. It involved duplicating the image into a layer, gaussian blur at 50% then inverting the image, turning down opacity of the inverted and blurred layer until I could see nebulosity of m42 in the original bottom layer and then I merged the two and turned up the blacks in a levels layer. I would like to start out by going in the right direction so I do not develop bad image editing habits so any info is appreciated. also does anyone know why the stars are elongated in the top right? Would flats help this at all? I have a theory that it is lens creep, sigma lenses are notorious for this but then again i suppose it could be barrel distortion? Not sure but next time I am going to use a heavy rubber band to make sure the lens stays permanently at 300mm.


What programs are you using to edit with now ? The technique you mentioned sounds some what like Jerry Lodriguss way of editing :

http://www.astropix.co​m/HTML/J_DIGIT/TOC_DIG​.HTM (external link)




  
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calypsob
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Feb 06, 2013 16:20 |  #9

Celestron wrote in post #15575016 (external link)
That's a very good start however your at the very edge of clipping your BP . You may want to re work the original stacked image and be careful to watch your Histogram and not clip that BP. Also with a rework you can bring out the running man neb much better and adjust the colors better . Always keep in mind that just because the sky looks black doesn't mean the final image is suppose to be so dark you can't see small detail . You want to bring out as much detail as possible without being too dark .

Celestron wrote in post #15580306 (external link)
What programs are you using to edit with now ? The technique you mentioned sounds some what like Jerry Lodriguss way of editing :

http://www.astropix.co​m/HTML/J_DIGIT/TOC_DIG​.HTM (external link)

I'm using DSS and CS6 I realized that the pill stars at the top right are coma and I can stop down to correct this. My light pollution technique came from here http://galacticfool.co​m …ight-pollution-photoshop/ (external link) I find DSS good for stacking but quite primitive for adjusting rgb, luminance, and saturation levels. I bounced my image from DSS as a 32bit tiff rational and editied that in CS6. I then flattened to 16bit and did the light pollution removal. I have not tried editing a fits file yet but I understand that nasa or some astronomy organization offeres a fits editor plugin for photoshop for free and I would like to try that. for now it is difficult to understand what the best methods are for processing so hopefully I can get pointed in the right direction. Jerry lodrigus seems to have some great techniques.


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S.R.M.
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Feb 06, 2013 18:55 |  #10

Off to a great start Wes! Looks great.

Cheers,
Stephen



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6D; EF 16-35 f/4L IS USM; EF 24mm f/2.8 IS USM; EF 35mm f/2; EF 50mm f/1.8 II; EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM; EF 70-200 f/4L USM; Samyang 14mm f/2.8
; Samyang 24mm f/1.4

  
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wargrafix
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Feb 06, 2013 20:23 |  #11

its exquisite. very delicate. makes me want to do some imaging. :-)




  
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mtsheron
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Feb 07, 2013 14:25 |  #12

Very nice! I use to shoot my XTi in conjunction with my Celestron CPC800. Sold both and wished I had not!


I am just a spoke in a broken wheel.......

  
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fortisi876
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Feb 07, 2013 17:01 |  #13

I'm as green as it gets in this part of the forum, but that looks like one beautiful image to me. Congrats!




  
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my first M42 orion
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