Yongnuo YN-622C Controller Trigger

CliveyBoy wrote in post #15588108
Thanks, iituner. I have added the problem with 1D X to the listing, for the next revision.

I think that it is unlikely that Canon have changed the digital words that control these matters, as that would abandon all existing flashes. It is more likely to be the result of ever faster processors in the camera. Synchronising firing Group A and the camera reading the result, then Group B, then C is critical. The process is an outgoing instruction and synchronised, sequenced responses. Tricky.

Do Manual group levels still work? They are much simpler outgoing instructions, and I would expect them to work flawlessly.

Has this been reported to LiangGC ?

All features, including manual power control, works flawlessly
Problems only in the wireless E-TTLII with ratios in groups

I have not been in contact with Mr. LiangGC about this problem

I have a 40D, 3 YN-622's, a 580ex 2 and a YN 568.

I am thinking of upgrading bodies. Would a 7D, 6D or 5D mk3 offer an improved off camera flash experience. Would the menus work better? Sorry if this has been discussed. I suck at search.

mixednuts wrote in post #15589202
I have a 40D, 3 YN-622's, a 580ex 2 and a YN 568.

I am thinking of upgrading bodies. Would a 7D, 6D or 5D mk3 offer an improved off camera flash experience. Would the menus work better? Sorry if this has been discussed. I suck at search.

With the YN-622 all three will be about the same. Its essentially a 580EXII as are as the camera is concerned. 6D and 5DIII offer ability to interoperate with 600EX-RT and its advanced features. These go beyond the ability of the YN-622. A 600EX-RT on a YN-622 on a 5DIII is a 580EXII as far as the camera is concerned.

mixednuts wrote in post #15589202
I have a 40D, 3 YN-622's, a 580ex 2 and a YN 568. Would a 7D, 6D or 5D mk3 offer an improved off camera flash experience. Would the menus work better?

Better menus? - 7D, no. 6D or 5D III, definitely yes.

See the difference in TOYUG p11-13 (link in signature).

CliveyBoy wrote in post #15588544
Adrian - Yes, within limits. See Elv's Flash Havoc site (see post 1822.)

He reports that the RF603 may introduce a lowering of the usable shutter speed.

You can have Cam + 622 + 603 TX on top, and 603 + strobe, and 622 + speeedlite. You will get only 1st curtain sync.

If you use cam + 622 + pc-sync cord to 603 TX, you will get 1st or 2nd curtain sync.

Thanks Clive. Mounting 603 on top of 622 is not a problem and as long as there are no sync issues (ie speedlites fire before/after strobes for example), that will do.

I don't use HSS or 2nd curtain in my studio work anyway, so not an issue. In regards to shutter speed issues, as long as it is fine at 1/125s all is good.

I should know soon though, as I expect the delivery today.

Thanks again, Clive

I think I will pull my trigger on this too. If i like it, then sell my radiopoppers. My st-e2 has been acting up.

CliveyBoy wrote in post #15588841
I assume you were using the Metz 50 AF-1. The behaviour is that of faulty/intermittent contacts.

Clean the 5 contacts on all hotshoes and hotfeet.
Clean the insides of the rails (Ground).
Ensure the foot is pressed firmly forward, and clamp is full engaged.

"HSS went off"? Do you mean the flash LCD display stopped showing the HSS symbol? Bad contacts. That leaves the transmitting 622 in HSS so camera releases shutter block, and the remote 622 firing the flash in x-sync in pre-shutter/supersync mode. = black band.

Typically, this problem tends to polish itself off in use, but unaided it may takes weeks. The Strato's do not make use of the digital codes passing through the pins, so poor contacts are not revealled.

Thanks for reply Clive.
Yes I were using my two Metz.
I've talked with my assistant this morning, and we remembered that one flash unit was not fully tightened on the 622 unit, and was moving on the hot shoe itself with the weight.
I was assuming the HsS went off because of the black banding and camera not forcing to x-sync shutter speed of 1/200.
So I think we found the problem, bad contact of the rails because of not tightened flash.

Yes, I understood the difference of the Strato, they not transmit any data on the rail(s) but fire signal only.

The time was running out that day and we changed the flash unit with the gelled CTO one we had in the bag, so my assistant forgot to tight it.
Now that I remember he forgot to tight the flash on the 622 and the 622 itself on the cold shot adapter.
Infact the unit fallen on the ground.
The 622 survived with no structural damage.
I can say they are very well built.

Can I use a 603 (for remote shutter release) with the 622?
Setup as follows:
- 622 on top of camera, 603 on top of 622. (Plug the 2.5mm cable that comes with the 603, into the 60d)
- slave flash on 622.
- 603 as shutter release

I have a friend who has 603's that I can borrow easily, and thought this might even be better than using the standard wireless shutter release, w/c is only IR.

Yes, but not in that configuration. The 622 will actively fire the 603 as a flash.

Park the 603RX somewhere else, and trigger it with the 603TX in the usual way.

CliveyBoy wrote in post #15590480
Yes, but not in that configuration. The 622 will actively fire the 603 as a flash.

Park the 603RX somewhere else, and trigger it with the 603TX in the usual way.

Oh, right. Is this the correct setup?

- 622 on top of camera (w/ or w/o on-cam flash)
- slave flash on 622
- hanging 603 with 2.5mm cable plugged into the 60d
- 603 as shutter release.

Here is the set up, same flash, one with RF-603, one with YN-622. One of each on board the top of my 50D.

The fun part is you need 4 603's to pull this off. One on top the 622, one on the flash. one plugged into the remote trigger on the camera, and one in hand.
Took me forever to figure out that you are flash fire when using the hotshoe or bottom foot on the 603 and you must have it plugged in with the jack into the side of the camera to use it as a remote.
If there is a way to cut out a 603 or two, I'm all ears. Hope the illustration is helpful.

If all you need is a remote, then you only need the pair of 603's.. but I presume you have at least 1 622 on camera hot shoe, and then one for each flash to be fired.

BUT.. with the new YN-560III... you will still need a 603 on top of the 622 on camera.. but that should fire the 560III unit.. as many as you have of them.

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sherpa25 wrote in post #15590531
Oh, right. Is this the correct setup?

- 622 on top of camera (w/ or w/o on-cam flash)
- slave flash on 622
- hanging 603 with 2.5mm cable plugged into the 60d
- 603 as shutter release.

Yes, that should work.

ksbal wrote in post #15590792
If all you need is a remote, then you only need the pair of 603's.. but I presume you have at least 1 622 on camera hot shoe, and then one for each flash to be fired.

Thanks. Yes, I was only looking at being able to use a remote shutter release.

ksbal wrote in post #15590792
BUT.. with the new YN-560III... you will still need a 603 on top of the 622 on camera.. but that should fire the 560III unit.. as many as you have of them.

But w/ 0 or 1 on-cam flash, and 1 or more slave flashes, I believe the 622 will be able to handle them too, right? In other words, a pair of 603's only for remote shutter release, and 622's to drive all flashes (on and off-cam) in E-TTL. On the other hand, the lower priced 603 would be better if slaves would be used only in manual. Is this correct?

I'm still experimenting with multiple speedlites, but I have a question:

I have Canon 430 & a YN 568EX with 3 622Cs and I'm noticing a very slight delay between the 2 flashes firing. The 568EX always seems to fire a millisecond or so sooner than the 430, I can swap transceivers between the camera and flashes and it still behaves the same way. I placed the flashes side-by-side and it's very noticeable although I haven't seen any problems with my exposures. Is this normal?

Did some testing yesterday with 5D3 and the Neewer 300DI strobes. Everything else was ok, but when going faster than 1/200, the top part of the frame started to get darker compared to bottom, and the difference was more obvious the faster I went. At 1/2000 is started to be obvious, and 1/8000 was already quite bad, most of light was only at the bottom part.

Not sure what would do that. Shutter comes down from top, right? That'd maybe mean the strobes are not fully on yet when the shutter already is moving, and towards the bottom I'm getting more light. Maybe? Or something else?