Yongnuo YN-622C Controller Trigger

Stone 13 wrote in post #15590970
I'm still experimenting with multiple speedlites, but I have a question:

I have Canon 430 & a YN 568EX with 3 622Cs and I'm noticing a very slight delay between the 2 flashes firing. The 568EX always seems to fire a millisecond or so sooner than the 430, I can swap transceivers between the camera and flashes and it still behaves the same way. I placed the flashes side-by-side and it's very noticeable although I haven't seen any problems with my exposures. Is this normal?

If your playing with E-TTL and groups, the 568 may be firing its preflash first, then the 430, then the actual exposure pop. This is a wild guess, however.

sherpa25 wrote in post #15590906
But w/ 0 or 1 on-cam flash, and 1 or more slave flashes, I believe the 622 will be able to handle them too, right? In other words, a pair of 603's only for remote shutter release, and 622's to drive all flashes (on and off-cam) in E-TTL. On the other hand, the lower priced 603 would be better if slaves would be used only in manual. Is this correct?

Yes, 603 pair for remote only, 622's everywhere else.

I don't know about 603's 'better' for manual use... 603's are cheaper, but the 622's will let you change the flash power from the camera, don't have to run around and change them if you have compatible flashes (430ex2, yn568ex, 580ex2 etc)

That said, If you have flashes that are manual only or can't take advantage of the 622 (can't ettl or 'talk'), then it makes perfect sense to have the 603's. I have both, use both, like both.

OK - finally had time to test the SuperSync with my AB1600. A primary attraction for me of the 622C's (been using 602's, then 603's for years) was the possibility of getting higher shutter speeds on my AB's when shooting outdoors. Here are my results (the difference between the two properly exposed shots is due to the different softboxes but you get the idea.

oldvultureface wrote in post #15591270
If your playing with E-TTL and groups, the 568 may be firing its preflash first, then the 430, then the actual exposure pop. This is a wild guess, however.

I though this was the cause earlier, but all flashes are in the same group. One 622 in my 7D hotshoe and 1 622 on each flash. The 568 just seems to fire first no matter what I do. Again, we're not talking about a long delay but I did notice it out of the corner of my eye when I was doing a few portraits. It's quite noticeable when the flashes are fired side-by-side.

Having 603 and 622 attached to the camera's hotshoe at the same time, really drains the camera battery very quickly

ksbal wrote in post #15591298
Yes, 603 pair for remote only, 622's everywhere else.

I don't know about 603's 'better' for manual use... 603's are cheaper, but the 622's will let you change the flash power from the camera, don't have to run around and change them if you have compatible flashes (430ex2, yn568ex, 580ex2 etc)

That said, If you have flashes that are manual only or can't take advantage of the 622 (can't ettl or 'talk'), then it makes perfect sense to have the 603's. I have both, use both, like both.

Great. That offers some options. Currently have only a 568ex, and the options will help in deciding the next type of flash & triggers.

DarkBoxPhotography wrote in post #15591622
Having 603 and 622 attached to the camera's hotshoe at the same time, really drains the camera battery very quickly

Oh really? Good thing to consider too.

I recently got a set of YN622C transceivers, along with the YN568 flash. I have some Canon 580ex flashes and one 580exII. I'd just like to confirm some things that I'm finding in my test as to how these will work. I have several camera bodies, the main one I'm testing with is a 6D since it has all the controls available.

My main question is in using the YN622, with the 580exII mounted on the camera and the YN568 off-camera, it seems that in eTTL mode, everything in channel one/group A, if I set the flash itself to FEC zero, then by setting the FEC on the camera menu, it is affecting both the flash on-camera the same. However, if I adjust the FEC on the 580exII flash panel itself, it seems to overide the FEC setting for the 580, and the FEC adjustment on the camera menu is only affecting the YN568 off camera. That is what it appears to me, is this correct?

Question #2: I've also been trying the 580ex (first version) on the camera mounted YN622. This flash seems to only respond to adjustments made on the 580ex flash menu, not from the camera menu. So to adjust the FEC for this flash, I have to do it on the flash itself, adjusting the FEC on the camera menu only affects the off-camera flash, am I seeing this correct? It's hard for me to confirm this visually. The other thing I've found, is that with the 580ex mounted on the camera mounted 622, I can keep it in eTTL and make FEC adjustments on the flash itself, while setting the remote off-camera YN568 to manual mode and adjust that flash independently. I tried this a couple of times, and once it didn't seem to work properly, at least I didn't seem to be able to change the 580ex output by changing the FEC on the flash, yet it remained in eTTL mode and the off camera flash was properly receiving manual flash power adjustments, but later I tried it again and it seemed to work. I tried this with two different 580ex flashes, so either one isn't working properly or I just didn't have it seated properly, perhaps. Either way, I did seem to be able to get this configuration to work (unlike using the 580exII which apparently I would have to go into mix mode to use it in eTTL while using the off camera flashes in manual). Am I correct in all this? I'm just trying to confirm what I'm seeing.

Ok, I just did another test and it doesn't seem that the 580ex will work properly in eTTL on the camera when the off-camera flash setting on the camera menu is in manual mode. I swear it seemed to work before, then it wouldn't, then it did, and now it doesn't, I'm confused. Is it only supposed to work this way in mix mode, and nothing else?

Peter,

Where you are going wrong is, for each stop of increased shutter speed, you need to compensate by either opening up a stop of aperture or increase your ISO a stop. this will level out your expsosure.

Hypersync wont magically increase your flash power/expsoure, it will just allow you to use the Tail of the flash once you go over your max sync speed, but if you increase your shutter speed (which is your objective) you'll be using less of the 'Tail' of the flash, so again you'll need to compensate by Fstop or ISO.

So...for outside use as you mentioned, if your exspoure is 1/200th at F16, if you increase to 1/800th you need to open up to F8, 1/1600th to F5.6, 1/3200th to F4....the primary obejective of hypersync outdoors is to allow you to use wider apertures F2.8/F4 it will not increase the efficieny of the flash or alter the Flash ambient ratio.

Hope this helps.

24Peter wrote in post #15591337
OK F finally had time to test the SuperSync with my AB1600. A primary attraction for me of the 622C's (been using 602's, then 603's for years) was the possibility of getting higher shutter speeds on my AB's when shooting outdoors. Here are my results (the difference between the two properly exposed shots is due to the different softboxes but you get the idea.

I used a 1/1000th shutter to be generous here. 1/8000th was completely black.

Conclusion: no supersync advantage with AB1600.

Only good news on the 622C's is I get clean frames at 1/200th on my 5DII with AB strobes and 622C's. With 602's & 603's, I had to shoot at 1/160th or even 1/125th to get clean frames.

While I am disappointed in the results I get with my AB, I am interested in being able to use HSS off-camera with Speedlites, though my 430EX II ain't enough to overpower sun (I also have a 430EX but it is a PITA to have to adjust settings on the flash itself rather than via the camera menu.)

I will say the SuperSync images looked a little better when shot with my 60D, but still not useable at all IMO. So, am I missing something here? Some people seem to be claiming different results. Got pics?

Doh! , just realised you did increase flash power from 1/32 to full power....Sorry.. this must be because of the quicker Flash duration of the AB1600.

Robert Welch wrote in post #15593102
However, if I adjust the FEC on the 580exII flash panel itself, it seems to overide the FEC setting for the 580, and the FEC adjustment on the camera menu is only affecting the YN568 off camera. That is what it appears to me, is this correct?

If I understand your question, FEC is additive with the 622's. Adjusting FEC on the flash is added to the FEC set in the camera's menu. -1 in-camera and +2 on the flash would be +1 output in E-TTL.

If you haven't already, read Cllive's manual linked in his signature. It goes far beyond what's included with the triggers.

oldvultureface wrote in post #15593579
If I understand your question, FEC is additive with the 622's. Adjusting FEC on the flash is added to the FEC set in the camera's menu. -1 in-camera and +2 on the flash would be +1 output in E-TTL.

If you haven't already, read Cllive's manual linked in his signature. It goes far beyond what's included with the triggers.

Thank you, that was my main question. I will read Clive's manual, I skimmed it, but it's time to really read it.

hbomb69 wrote in post #15593449
Doh! , just realised you did increase flash power from 1/32 to full power....Sorry.. this must be because of the quicker Flash duration of the AB1600.

Yeah, that's what kind of disappointing and why I see no advantage here. Perhaps other strobes will faire better in this regard.

Just to be clear: I'm not trying to dis' the 622C. I am pleased to have full E-TTL w/ HSS off camera for my Canon Speedlites for $82. But just want to get the record straight on SuperSync with AB studio strobes.

Any idea why 622 can't fire my studio strobe? If I attach one 622 to camera's hotshoe, second to the studio strobe, it won't fire. If I replace the 622s with 603s everything works.

DarkBoxPhotography wrote in post #15594737
Any idea why 622 can't fire my studio strobe? If I attach one 622 to camera's hotshoe, second to the studio strobe, it won't fire. If I replace the 622s with 603s everything works.

Perhaps your channels aren't matched between the receiver and transmitter? As someone else mentioned, it is too easy to accidently change a setting by unintentionally hitting a button on the 622C's just handling the damn things.

Also, perhaps the sync cord isn't fully connected or you have a bad cord? (I know you said the 603's work but who knows about the cord...)