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Thread started 23 Jan 2013 (Wednesday) 09:47
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Micro Adjust Question

 
scrane
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Feb 17, 2013 09:03 |  #46

As I said, "quick check". Using central focus point. That center glob of cement, as I remember.

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hollis_f
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Feb 17, 2013 09:31 |  #47

scrane wrote in post #15619324 (external link)
As I said, "quick check". Using central focus point. That center glob of cement, as I remember.

As I said, "How do you know?" The focus point will cover a lot more than 'that blob of cement'. It's about twice the size of the rectangle in the viewfinder and can pick anything at all in that area to focus on.


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scrane
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Feb 17, 2013 09:38 |  #48

hollis_f wrote in post #15619442 (external link)
As I said, "How do you know?" The focus point will cover a lot more than 'that blob of cement'. It's about twice the size of the rectangle in the viewfinder and can pick anything at all in that area to focus on.

Hollis, you're right. I apologize to the community for my rash and misleading post.




  
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MakisM1
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Feb 17, 2013 09:58 |  #49

scrane wrote in post #15619455 (external link)
Hollis, you're right. I apologize to the community for my rash and misleading post.

Tar and feathers.... quick... :D

Personally, I find this a very good target, comes with reasonable instructions and it is free!

http://www.peleng8.com​/how-to-detect-back-focus.html (external link)

Here is how the oft-maligned nifty fifty performs...

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alexxn
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Feb 17, 2013 13:40 |  #50

OK, after trying micro adjusting at +5 +10 +15 +20 -5 -10 -15 -20 I found +10 to look the best (all the negative ones were WAY out of focus)

I went back and tried +8 +9 +11 +12 but honestly I can't see much of a difference.

This is all at f/1.4 1/200 ISO 100 at 96 inches away (pretty far)

To really zoom in with Photoshop I'm having to goto 500%

How sharp am I looking for, I do have a 1D3 which is only 10MP


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Feb 17, 2013 14:11 |  #51

I don't micro adjust at those types of distances, or at least any kind of preset distances. I shoot just far enough to fill the center AF point with the word FOCUS, or a bit closer. I also only microadjust at wide open because if I shut down the aperture during a shoot, I should have no issues with missed focus when the DOF is so deep.


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alexxn
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Feb 17, 2013 14:42 |  #52

f/1.4, cropped 100% at +11 MA distance of about 2 feet.

I'd say this isn't bad at all......opinions ?

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TeamSpeed
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Feb 17, 2013 15:19 |  #53

That looks pretty good. Now go out and shoot real world items, like flowers, people, etc.


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scrane
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Feb 17, 2013 16:11 |  #54

alexxn wrote in post #15620457 (external link)
f/1.4, cropped 100% at +11 MA distance of about 2 feet.

I'd say this isn't bad at all......opinions ?

QUOTED IMAGE

To me that looks front focused. I would call it from the far 1 to at least the close 6 (cannot see more) averaging to about 3 units front focusing. The focus target looks out of focus. I don't know how the units translate to calibration steps, but I believe you need a more positive correction.




  
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alexxn
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Feb 17, 2013 18:14 |  #55

scrane wrote in post #15620753 (external link)
To me that looks front focused. I would call it from the far 1 to at least the close 6 (cannot see more) averaging to about 3 units front focusing. The focus target looks out of focus. I don't know how the units translate to calibration steps, but I believe you need a more positive correction.

So maybe up a few notches positive on the micro adjust ?


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scrane
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Feb 17, 2013 19:03 |  #56

alexxn wrote in post #15621133 (external link)
So maybe up a few notches positive on the micro adjust ?

I would do +5 from where you are now and see where that takes you. If you overshoot you can back off proportionately. One nice thing with the calibration is it's pretty precise and repeatable.
Theoretically you should have more depth of field behind the focus point, but if you can get focus to center around -0- that should be a good start. It doesn't really matter where you judge focus goes from good to bad as long as you use the the same criterion on fore and aft focus transitions.
If you get lost you can always go back to where you are now.
As TeamSpeed says, once you're satisfied go out and have some fun.




  
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jbrand
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Feb 18, 2013 09:57 |  #57

Pick up a $30 copy of focustune. The general technique is largely what is duscussed here, but the analysis is a bit more quantitative/automated​.

I had excellent results. I know there are others. Many of them a re much more expensive.

Jim


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alexxn
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Feb 20, 2013 10:07 |  #58

scrane wrote in post #15621349 (external link)
I would do +5 from where you are now and see where that takes you. If you overshoot you can back off proportionately. One nice thing with the calibration is it's pretty precise and repeatable.
Theoretically you should have more depth of field behind the focus point, but if you can get focus to center around -0- that should be a good start. It doesn't really matter where you judge focus goes from good to bad as long as you use the the same criterion on fore and aft focus transitions.
If you get lost you can always go back to where you are now.
As TeamSpeed says, once you're satisfied go out and have some fun.

I am going to try again with better lighting this time and see how it looks with a little more + adjustment.

Depending on the results a call to Sigma will be after that.


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chalkie
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Feb 20, 2013 10:21 |  #59

This might be a ridiculous question, but as a newbie to micro adjustments can I assume that doing an adjustment to tweak a lens with a 50D does not affect the lens' performance on a 40D (or other non-adjustable camera)?


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amfoto1
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Feb 20, 2013 10:39 |  #60

chalkie wrote in post #15631670 (external link)
This might be a ridiculous question, but as a newbie to micro adjustments can I assume that doing an adjustment to tweak a lens with a 50D does not affect the lens' performance on a 40D (or other non-adjustable camera)?

Of course not... MA is a camera feature... it only effects the particular model of lens on the specific camera that's had some adjustment dialed in. This won't (can't possibly) effect how that lens will perform on any other camera.

In fact, if you had several 50Ds, each would need to be individually MAed with any particular lens.

As mentioned, it's lens model specific with 50D. So if you were to adjust a Canon 50/1.4, for example, a 50D will apply the same amount of adjustment to any Canon 50/1.4 used on it.

Some of the later cameras with MA are now lens serial number specific... so multiple copies of a particular lens could each have their own particular adjustment settings in the camera. 5DIII, 1DX and 6D all have this more advanced form of MA. They also can register MA for up to 40 lenses (vs 20 on earlier camera models with MA). And, these latest cameras also have two MA settings for zooms... one at each extreme of the zoom's range of focal lengths (vs earlier models that can only apply one MA to a zoom, no matter what focal length it's set to).

Not to worry.... There are no ridiculous questions... Sometimes there are ridiculous answers! ;)


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