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Thread started 23 Feb 2006 (Thursday) 20:24
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Sigma 30mm f1.4 EX DC HSM

 
ian_socool
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Mar 10, 2013 16:40 |  #8026

Yogi Bear wrote in post #15699206 (external link)
How do you figure that "Monochromatic" helped sharpness? This is the first time that I've seen this.

What sharpening settings in DPP did you use? And did you use "Sharpness" or "USM"?

Thanks for the examples!

Yogi

My friends and I have an old saying, if in doubt, go black and white. A lot of slightly out of focus shots seem to come together when turned into B&W.
In DPP I used custom white balance by using the dropper on someones white shirt. I use the RAW sharpness, then go to RGB and sharpen the colors some more. Canon DPP is one of the best software porgrams in my workflow. I use Lightroom2 and it cannot read my T3's .cr2. (I hear LR4 can). Also with DPP you can shoot in Monochromatic and reverse it back to color.


70D, 80D, SL1, Sigma 10-20 3.5, Σ30mm 1.4, 40mm 2.8 Pancake Σ70mm 2.8 EX DG Macro, Canon 17-55 2.8 IS, Σ85 1.4, Σ50-150mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM APO, Godox AD 200 X's 2, 430EX II X's 2, Yongnuo YN-560II X's 2, Cowboy Studio wireless flash triggers X4.Ian_socool FlickR (external link) Facebook fanpage (external link) http://ianlynphotograp​hy.com (external link)

  
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ian_socool
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Mar 10, 2013 16:46 |  #8027

Yogi Bear wrote in post #15693202 (external link)
I'm surprised that there is no evidence of over-sharpening. If the camera's sharpness setting of 7 was maintained by DPP when PPing, I would expect to see some halos, but I do not. Was this a RAW shot or did the camera capture it as a .JPG?

Keep in mind that Flickr downsizes your T3i photos from the native 5184 X 3456 resolution to a MAXIMUM of 2048 X 1365. This downsizing will soften your images. In order to combat this softening, I recommend the following:
1) Shoot with camera sharpness set at zero.
2) After you have finished doing your editing in DPP, do a 'Convert and Save' to .JPG in DPP at Quality = 7, and RE-SIZE your photos to 2048 X 1365. This will avoid the softening by re-sizing that happens when you upload to Flickr.
3) Open the down-sized .JPG in DPP and sharpen to taste under the 'RGB' tab.
4) Do a second 'Convert and Save' at Quality = 9.
5) Upload to Flickr. Done.

I agree with what another poster said that your child's left eye appears to be in acceptably sharp focus.

I shoot in Faithful so my defaults are 0-0-0-0 to start with
I convert my .cr2 to jpg in Image Quality 10 and 350 dpi.
I ALWAYS use NR at around 4 sometimes 5.
In lightroom I add some vibrance and some saturation.
Then for the web I upload 900X900 and fullsized I upload Max
I then


70D, 80D, SL1, Sigma 10-20 3.5, Σ30mm 1.4, 40mm 2.8 Pancake Σ70mm 2.8 EX DG Macro, Canon 17-55 2.8 IS, Σ85 1.4, Σ50-150mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM APO, Godox AD 200 X's 2, 430EX II X's 2, Yongnuo YN-560II X's 2, Cowboy Studio wireless flash triggers X4.Ian_socool FlickR (external link) Facebook fanpage (external link) http://ianlynphotograp​hy.com (external link)

  
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Yogi ­ Bear
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Mar 10, 2013 16:52 |  #8028

Yogi Bear wrote in post #15699206 (external link)
How do you figure that "Monochromatic" helped sharpness? This is the first time that I've seen this.

What sharpening settings in DPP did you use? And did you use "Sharpness" or "USM"?

Thanks for the examples!

Yogi

ian_socool wrote in post #15699288 (external link)
My friends and I have an old saying, if in doubt, go black and white. A lot of slightly out of focus shots seem to come together when turned into B&W.
In DPP I used custom white balance by using the dropper on someones white shirt. I use the RAW sharpness, then go to RGB and sharpen the colors some more. Canon DPP is one of the best software porgrams in my workflow. I use Lightroom2 and it cannot read my T3's .cr2. (I hear LR4 can). Also with DPP you can shoot in Monochromatic and reverse it back to color.

Very interesting! I've never heard that about B&W before. I'll have to give it a try, but I generally prefer color in my images, especially candids of the children and birds.

I agree with you about DPP. I also have LR 3.6 and it is sooooooo slooooow on my old computer.


Canon EOS 7D | EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM | EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS |
EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM | 250D | EF-S 10-22 mm f/3.5-4.5 USM | 580 EX II |

  
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ian_socool
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Mar 10, 2013 17:16 |  #8029

Yogi Bear wrote in post #15699328 (external link)
Very interesting! I've never heard that about B&W before. I'll have to give it a try, but I generally prefer color in my images, especially candids of the children and birds.

I agree with you about DPP. I also have LR 3.6 and it is sooooooo slooooow on my old computer.

Forget what Peter Harvey says about black and white..
Lol
Black and White adds contrast and feeling to photos. Give it a nostalgic feel as well.


70D, 80D, SL1, Sigma 10-20 3.5, Σ30mm 1.4, 40mm 2.8 Pancake Σ70mm 2.8 EX DG Macro, Canon 17-55 2.8 IS, Σ85 1.4, Σ50-150mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM APO, Godox AD 200 X's 2, 430EX II X's 2, Yongnuo YN-560II X's 2, Cowboy Studio wireless flash triggers X4.Ian_socool FlickR (external link) Facebook fanpage (external link) http://ianlynphotograp​hy.com (external link)

  
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khwaja
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Mar 10, 2013 22:41 |  #8030

Yogi Bear wrote in post #15693202 (external link)
I'm surprised that there is no evidence of over-sharpening. If the camera's sharpness setting of 7 was maintained by DPP when PPing, I would expect to see some halos, but I do not. Was this a RAW shot or did the camera capture it as a .JPG?

Keep in mind that Flickr downsizes your T3i photos from the native 5184 X 3456 resolution to a MAXIMUM of 2048 X 1365. This downsizing will soften your images. In order to combat this softening, I recommend the following:
1) Shoot with camera sharpness set at zero.
2) After you have finished doing your editing in DPP, do a 'Convert and Save' to .JPG in DPP at Quality = 7, and RE-SIZE your photos to 2048 X 1365. This will avoid the softening by re-sizing that happens when you upload to Flickr.
3) Open the down-sized .JPG in DPP and sharpen to taste under the 'RGB' tab.
4) Do a second 'Convert and Save' at Quality = 9.
5) Upload to Flickr. Done.

I agree with what another poster said that your child's left eye appears to be in acceptably sharp focus.

Thanks Yogi. I am going to start practicing these steps. I literally don't do anything in DPP other than straight conversion. Regarding sharpening, there are options under RAW (unsharp mask / Sharpen) and RGB. Which one is better and what are the optimum settings.

Is there any book or FAQ here about post processing. I am finding it overwhelming.


Canon 6D Mark 2, 50mm STM

  
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llazlok
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
     
Mar 10, 2013 23:53 as a reply to  @ khwaja's post |  #8031

5DmarkII (cropped)
f/2

IMAGE: http://michaelamyphotography.smugmug.com/Other/Winterest/i-NkQ5vxq/0/XL/IMG_9015-XL.jpg

f/2.8
IMAGE: http://michaelamyphotography.smugmug.com/Other/Winterest/i-WChGT7V/0/X2/IMG_9046-3-X2.jpg

f/3.2
IMAGE: http://michaelamyphotography.smugmug.com/Other/Winterest/i-ftnCKTN/0/X2/IMG_9074-X2.jpg



  
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Winwin
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Mar 11, 2013 00:44 |  #8032

IMAGE: http://www.forthewinwin.com/People/People/i-tgMhhqT/0/L/IMG_1372-1680-L.jpg

Win.
Canon 5D Mark III, 100 f/2.8L Macro, 50 f/1.8 STM

  
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Maizzi
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Mar 11, 2013 03:44 |  #8033

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

I love this little bugger! (external link) by Jani Kautto (external link), on Flickr

// 5DmkII, 5Dc, Sigma 35mm 1.4, 50mm 1.8, 85mm f/1.2LII // My Site (external link) //

  
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Terry_Hill
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Mar 11, 2013 07:05 |  #8034

llazlok wrote in post #15700809 (external link)
5DmarkII (cropped)
f/2
QUOTED IMAGE

f/2.8
QUOTED IMAGE

f/3.2
QUOTED IMAGE

Nice photo's but kids with poorly fitting helmets fill me with woe, if they are happy to be wearing them making sure they cover the bits that count is the most important factor or they may as well not be there at all. Off topic I know but it's a pet peave of mine...


"Skill in photography is acquired by practice and not by purchase" Percy W Harris

my flickr (external link)
Click Here and Join the POTN flickr Group! (external link)

  
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StillCrazy
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Mar 11, 2013 07:37 |  #8035

khwaja wrote in post #15700568 (external link)
Is there any book or FAQ here about post processing. I am finding it overwhelming.

Yes, PP can be a bit overwhelming, so you're not alone on this. I had to loose my fear of making mistakes, or doing it wrong. I found just clicking buttons, in whatever software you use, I the surest way to learn how to do PP. I would do, and undo, things over and over until I got what I wanted. After looking at so many other folks pics, and then trying things out, you develop a feel for what and how to do things.

Start by making a copy of your original, then go to town on it, and save it as a new version. You can always go back to the RAW or original and start over.


StillCrazy - after all these years.
Canon T3i, Sigma 18-200, Sigma 10-20, Tamron 70-300, Rokinon 14, Yongnuo YN 565 EX
My flickr (external link)

  
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ian_socool
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Mar 11, 2013 07:55 |  #8036

StillCrazy wrote in post #15701507 (external link)
Yes, PP can be a bit overwhelming, so you're not alone on this. I had to loose my fear of making mistakes, or doing it wrong. I found just clicking buttons, in whatever software you use, I the surest way to learn how to do PP. I would do, and undo, things over and over until I got what I wanted. After looking at so many other folks pics, and then trying things out, you develop a feel for what and how to do things.

Start by making a copy of your original, then go to town on it, and save it as a new version. You can always go back to the RAW or original and start over.

White balance is the thing that is stressed to me over and over and over by my peers in my photography ministry at my church. What was acceptable from a point and shoot is not when you step it up. Warm photos are a no no unless you want it that way.
Hot spots are a no no
I am not a photoshop user so it is more difficult for me. If I wee a graphic artist, then it would come easy to me. Being a parent and husband who works a 9-5 this is a slow learning curve.


70D, 80D, SL1, Sigma 10-20 3.5, Σ30mm 1.4, 40mm 2.8 Pancake Σ70mm 2.8 EX DG Macro, Canon 17-55 2.8 IS, Σ85 1.4, Σ50-150mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM APO, Godox AD 200 X's 2, 430EX II X's 2, Yongnuo YN-560II X's 2, Cowboy Studio wireless flash triggers X4.Ian_socool FlickR (external link) Facebook fanpage (external link) http://ianlynphotograp​hy.com (external link)

  
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TimHphotovideo
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Mar 11, 2013 09:50 as a reply to  @ ian_socool's post |  #8037

From an engagement shoot...


HOSTED PHOTO
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7D _ Tokina 11-16 _ Siggy 30 1.4 _ 70-200F4L
https://vimeo.com/user​9279068 (external link)

  
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ian_socool
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Mar 11, 2013 10:34 |  #8038

Well I am here at Sigma to have them once over the lens to make sure it it focusing properly. The tech laughed when I told him about the price gouging on the Canon lenses....lol


70D, 80D, SL1, Sigma 10-20 3.5, Σ30mm 1.4, 40mm 2.8 Pancake Σ70mm 2.8 EX DG Macro, Canon 17-55 2.8 IS, Σ85 1.4, Σ50-150mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM APO, Godox AD 200 X's 2, 430EX II X's 2, Yongnuo YN-560II X's 2, Cowboy Studio wireless flash triggers X4.Ian_socool FlickR (external link) Facebook fanpage (external link) http://ianlynphotograp​hy.com (external link)

  
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Yogi ­ Bear
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Mar 11, 2013 11:51 as a reply to  @ ian_socool's post |  #8039

Yogi Bear wrote in post #15693202 (external link)
I'm surprised that there is no evidence of over-sharpening. If the camera's sharpness setting of 7 was maintained by DPP when PPing, I would expect to see some halos, but I do not. Was this a RAW shot or did the camera capture it as a .JPG?

Keep in mind that Flickr downsizes your T3i photos from the native 5184 X 3456 resolution to a MAXIMUM of 2048 X 1365. This downsizing will soften your images. In order to combat this softening, I recommend the following:
1) Shoot with camera sharpness set at zero.
2) After you have finished doing your editing in DPP, do a 'Convert and Save' to .JPG in DPP at Quality = 7, and RE-SIZE your photos to 2048 X 1365. This will avoid the softening by re-sizing that happens when you upload to Flickr.
3) Open the down-sized .JPG in DPP and sharpen to taste under the 'RGB' tab.
4) Do a second 'Convert and Save' at Quality = 9.
5) Upload to Flickr. Done.

I agree with what another poster said that your child's left eye appears to be in acceptably sharp focus.

khwaja wrote in post #15700568 (external link)
Thanks Yogi. I am going to start practicing these steps. I literally don't do anything in DPP other than straight conversion. Regarding sharpening, there are options under RAW (unsharp mask / Sharpen) and RGB. Which one is better and what are the optimum settings.

Is there any book or FAQ here about post processing. I am finding it overwhelming.

Whether to sharpen on the RAW tab or the RGB tab depends on your final output. If you will NOT be downsizing for the web, you can sharpen in the RAW tab at about 3 to 5, maybe sometimes 6. I don't know much about the Unsharp Mask sharpening. Maybe someone who does can chime in here.

If you will be downsizing for the web as described above, Set sharpness in the RAW tab at zero, downsize as in step 2) above and then sharpen in step 3) on the RGB tab. The amount will vary considerably, but when sharpening, enlarge the view to at least 100% and looks for artifacts that indicate over-sharpening, such as "halos" around high contrast borders. Try 50-120 as starting points and see how that works. Be sure to do step 4) above when you are done sharpening or your changes will NOT SHOW in your final image!


Canon EOS 7D | EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM | EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS |
EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM | 250D | EF-S 10-22 mm f/3.5-4.5 USM | 580 EX II |

  
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outmywindow
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Mar 11, 2013 12:02 |  #8040

Quick shot from the other day @ f/1.4

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8372/8549547114_89d26e0008.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/92968588@N04/8​549547114/  (external link)
Leaves of Enlightenment (external link)

Just a soul with a camera

  
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