A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

agv8or wrote in post #15853368
Here I have installed the Quantum Telephoto Reflector.

Any chance you could do a few "real world" shots with this on the 180 as fill for midday overhead sun? I am looking at this for field sports etc.

Would the simple answer to this not just be if Godox made the existing end caps available as an accessory to the snoot and also supplied aluminium blanking discs for each end?

• No retooling from their point of view, just using existing spun caps.
  
• Simple stamped discs to fill the ends á la Tetrode example here
  
• The existing cylinder snoot then becomes dual purpose.
  
• Possibly one cap could have a rigid foam insert into which the bulb pins pushed.
  

tetrode wrote in post #15845605
Here's another eagerly anticipated accessory that's now on the way:

This is the "two-to-one" cable. This cable combines the two charging ports on a Lithium 4500 battery into one super port. Combining the ports reduces recycling time of both the 180 and 360.

I've run some timing tests with both the 180 and the 360. I recorded videos of the tests and used the timeline in a video editor to compute recycle times. The numbers are the average of three full power pops:

Godox notes that components within the two flashes have been sized appropriately to handle the reduced recycling times made possible by the two-to-one cable. No failures or premature overheats have occurred during stress testing.

this thing is genius,
but, I am thinking also I don't know the circuit design

if this 2 to 1 cable can increase performance,
how come Quantum never make it ?

the increase in performance, in my opinion, it's because the Ampere, right ?

tongki wrote in post #15854579
this thing is genius,
but, I am thinking also I don't know the circuit design

if this 2 to 1 cable can increase performance,
how come Quantum never make it ?

the increase in performance, in my opinion, it's because the Ampere, right ?

I'm sure it's just a matter of increased current delivery. It would be conjecture on my part but I would guess that Quantum never offered a similar accessory for this very reason. The internal Quantum circuitry may not have been specified in anticipation of having to deal with the inrush current a 2-to-1 combiner cable might provide.Then, too, perhaps the Quantum NiMh cells aren't up to the task. As a practical matter, the 150Ws Quantum flashes already recycle quickly so there really wouldn't be much to be gained. Perhaps we have an EE on the forum who could better address this question.

If you're a risk taker, you could always try using the Godox 2-to-1 cable with a Quantum 2x2 pack and T5d-R. Worst that could happen is you brick $1200 worth of flash gear

Whortleberry wrote in post #15853825
Would the simple answer to this not just be if Godox made the existing end caps available as an accessory to the snoot and also supplied aluminium blanking discs for each end?

• No retooling from their point of view, just using existing spun caps.
  
• Simple stamped discs to fill the ends á la Tetrode example here
  
• The existing cylinder snoot then becomes dual purpose.
  
• Possibly one cap could have a rigid foam insert into which the bulb pins pushed.
  

Seems a lot easier than all the angst being generated. Or you could go all arty-farty and custom fabricate, at vast expense to Godox and eventually to us, something likethis (but bigger diameter of course).

I like the idea of a "tubidor" but a dual purpose protective cap (as opposed to dual purpose snoot) is, no doubt, a more practical solution. The snoot would be too long to serve as a protective cap/flashtube cocoon.

The tube protector might just work as a storage container with an additional cap:

It's not just you. I also haven't been able to remove the cap on the conical snoot. It appears to be a friction fit but perhaps there is some adhesive lurking in the joint. I've only tried my limited muscle power without success and haven't been motivated to bring the rubber mallet to bear.

tetrode wrote in post #15854972
It's not just you. I also haven't been able to remove the cap on the conical snoot. It appears to be a friction fit but perhaps there is some adhesive lurking in the joint. I've only tried my limited muscle power without success and haven't been motivated to bring the rubber mallet to bear.

Thanks, Dave. While I'm happy to take all sorts of things to pieces, I'm not one for forcing things. No doubt it'd come off if I hit it hard enough but........

Gareth ONeill wrote in post #15853522
=Gareth O'Neill;15853522]Any chance you could do a few "real world" shots with this on the 180 as fill for midday overhead sun? I am looking at this for field sports etc.

I will try to get around to it sometime but this time of year my free time during the days is fairly limited especially when it is nice out. I have been wanting to do some comparison testing myself between the telephoto reflector and several other reflectors I have but have yet to find the time. If I get the opportunity how do you want it tested? On camera or off? How far away? "Field sports etc..." encompasses a pretty large window!

tetrode wrote in post #15854972
I like the idea of a "tubidor" but a dual purpose protective cap (as opposed to dual purpose snoot) is, no doubt, a more practical solution. The snoot would be too long to serve as a protective cap/flashtube cocoon.

The tube protector might just work as a storage container with an additional cap:

The additional cap might come with a foam insert to hold the flashtube in place though that probably isn't necessary. Unfortunately, I do not have a spare snoot cap on hand.

It's not just you. I also haven't been able to remove the cap on the conical snoot. It appears to be a friction fit but perhaps there is some adhesive lurking in the joint. I've only tried my limited muscle power without success and haven't been motivated to bring the rubber mallet to bear.

The flash tube protector I made works excellently for storing the bulbs and because the end caps are rubber there is no need for any foam. When a second end is used the bulb is held tightly and securely in the tube with no rattling. I am not sure what would happen if you dropped it on the end where the glass part of the bulb protrudes slightly and I am not going to put that one to any testing. I will provide pictures later on when I get time.

For what it is worth I too have not been able to get the end off the conical snoot so it's nice to see I am not the only one as seems to be the case in other issues.

agv8or wrote in post #15853490
Here is my next project. I am going to use the cut off end of a Lumedyne snoot to modify this Smth Victor 5" reflector and barn doors to fit the Cheetah Light. I figure I am going to need to use my Quantum flash extender to get the bulb far enough into the reflector. Stay tuned.

Have you tried mounting the Smith Victor BD50 barn doors on the umbrella reflector for the CL-180? That reflector is approximately 5-1/4" in diameter and has a nice rolled lip.

Dave F.

agv8or wrote in post #15855106
I will try to get around to it sometime but this time of year my free time during the days is fairly limited especially when it is nice out. I have been wanting to do some comparison testing myself between the telephoto reflector and several other reflectors I have but have yet to find the time. If I get the opportunity how do you want it tested? On camera or off? How far away? "Field sports etc..." encompasses a pretty large window!

Great, thanks

tetrode wrote in post #15855371
Have you tried mounting the Smith Victor BD50 barn doors on the umbrella reflector for the CL-180? That reflector is approximately 5-1/4" in diameter and has a nice rolled lip.

Dave F.

I originally bought just the barn doors with this in mind but they were too large for the cheetah reflector. I then bought the SV 5" reflector and it measures 6"....go figure! The SV reflector looks like it would be fairly simple to modify but we'll see. I have another idea if this doesn't work out. Maybe Godox will come out with a barndoor but I do not know the demand for such an accessory.

Here is the pics of the bulb in the flash tube protector. The rubber ends are fairly absorbant and the bulb would be protected under most conditions.

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How much bigger is the 360 going to be? Is it going to be bigger?

tetrode wrote in post #15854699
I'm sure it's just a matter of increased current delivery. It would be conjecture on my part but I would guess that Quantum never offered a similar accessory for this very reason. The internal Quantum circuitry may not have been specified in anticipation of having to deal with the inrush current a 2-to-1 combiner cable might provide.Then, too, perhaps the Quantum NiMh cells aren't up to the task. As a practical matter, the 150Ws Quantum flashes already recycle quickly so there really wouldn't be much to be gained. Perhaps we have an EE on the forum who could better address this question.

If you're a risk taker, you could always try using the Godox 2-to-1 cable with a Quantum 2x2 pack and T5d-R. Worst that could happen is you brick $1200 worth of flash gear

in theory,
increase in Ampere had no effect on damaging circuitry,
voltage could damage circuit, Ampere no reasons

Ampere mostly related to cables, each cable has it's own specifications,
also, you're right, Quantum nimh battery might not provide enough power
compare to new Lithium batteries

Dave, this is a long shot (but worth a try), I wonder if they could possibly change the function of the LAMP button on the CL-Tx to engage H mode on the flash instead, by updating the firmware in the flash.

The remote lamp is handy but turning on and off HSS remotely is the biggest omission at the moment. I'm guessing it will have to wait for a new Tx unit. But worth a try.
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