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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
Gareth ­ O'Neill
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Apr 21, 2013 23:52 |  #1051

agv8or wrote in post #15853368 (external link)
Here I have installed the Quantum Telephoto Reflector.

Any chance you could do a few "real world" shots with this on the 180 as fill for midday overhead sun? I am looking at this for field sports etc.


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Whortleberry
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Apr 22, 2013 03:08 |  #1052

Would the simple answer to this not just be if Godox made the existing end caps available as an accessory to the snoot and also supplied aluminium blanking discs for each end?

  • No retooling from their point of view, just using existing spun caps.
  • Simple stamped discs to fill the ends á la Tetrode example here
  • The existing cylinder snoot then becomes dual purpose.
  • Possibly one cap could have a rigid foam insert into which the bulb pins pushed.
Seems a lot easier than all the angst being generated. Or you could go all arty-farty and custom fabricate, at vast expense to Godox and eventually to us, something likethis (external link) (but bigger diameter of course).

Totally off topic
: Is it just me or is the cap on the end of the conical snoot not intended to come off? Should I just pull harder?

Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
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tongki
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Apr 22, 2013 09:58 |  #1053

tetrode wrote in post #15845605 (external link)
Here's another eagerly anticipated accessory that's now on the way:

QUOTED IMAGE

This is the "two-to-one" cable. This cable combines the two charging ports on a Lithium 4500 battery into one super port. Combining the ports reduces recycling time of both the 180 and 360.

I've run some timing tests with both the 180 and the 360. I recorded videos of the tests and used the timeline in a video editor to compute recycle times. The numbers are the average of three full power pops:

QUOTED IMAGE

Godox notes that components within the two flashes have been sized appropriately to handle the reduced recycling times made possible by the two-to-one cable. No failures or premature overheats have occurred during stress testing.

this thing is genius,
but, I am thinking also I don't know the circuit design

if this 2 to 1 cable can increase performance,
how come Quantum never make it ?

the increase in performance, in my opinion, it's because the Ampere, right ?


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tetrode
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Apr 22, 2013 10:37 |  #1054

tongki wrote in post #15854579 (external link)
this thing is genius,
but, I am thinking also I don't know the circuit design

if this 2 to 1 cable can increase performance,
how come Quantum never make it ?

the increase in performance, in my opinion, it's because the Ampere, right ?

I'm sure it's just a matter of increased current delivery. It would be conjecture on my part but I would guess that Quantum never offered a similar accessory for this very reason. The internal Quantum circuitry may not have been specified in anticipation of having to deal with the inrush current a 2-to-1 combiner cable might provide.Then, too, perhaps the Quantum NiMh cells aren't up to the task. As a practical matter, the 150Ws Quantum flashes already recycle quickly so there really wouldn't be much to be gained. Perhaps we have an EE on the forum who could better address this question.

If you're a risk taker, you could always try using the Godox 2-to-1 cable with a Quantum 2x2 pack and T5d-R. Worst that could happen is you brick $1200 worth of flash gear ;)




  
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tetrode
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Apr 22, 2013 11:59 |  #1055

Whortleberry wrote in post #15853825 (external link)
Would the simple answer to this not just be if Godox made the existing end caps available as an accessory to the snoot and also supplied aluminium blanking discs for each end?
  • No retooling from their point of view, just using existing spun caps.
  • Simple stamped discs to fill the ends á la Tetrode example here
  • The existing cylinder snoot then becomes dual purpose.
  • Possibly one cap could have a rigid foam insert into which the bulb pins pushed.
Seems a lot easier than all the angst being generated. Or you could go all arty-farty and custom fabricate, at vast expense to Godox and eventually to us, something likethis (external link) (but bigger diameter of course).

I like the idea of a "tubidor" but a dual purpose protective cap (as opposed to dual purpose snoot) is, no doubt, a more practical solution. The snoot would be too long to serve as a protective cap/flashtube cocoon.

The tube protector might just work as a storage container with an additional cap:

IMAGE: http://f.cl.ly/items/411H3S231K2W2j0m3f1Y/CL-180_Bulb_Protector.jpg

The additional cap might come with a foam insert to hold the flashtube in place though that probably isn't necessary. Unfortunately, I do not have a spare snoot cap on hand.

Totally off topic: Is it just me or is the cap on the end of the conical snoot not intended to come off? Should I just pull harder?

It's not just you. I also haven't been able to remove the cap on the conical snoot. It appears to be a friction fit but perhaps there is some adhesive lurking in the joint. I've only tried my limited muscle power without success and haven't been motivated to bring the rubber mallet to bear.




  
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Whortleberry
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Apr 22, 2013 12:13 |  #1056

tetrode wrote in post #15854972 (external link)
It's not just you. I also haven't been able to remove the cap on the conical snoot. It appears to be a friction fit but perhaps there is some adhesive lurking in the joint. I've only tried my limited muscle power without success and haven't been motivated to bring the rubber mallet to bear.

Thanks, Dave. While I'm happy to take all sorts of things to pieces, I'm not one for forcing things. No doubt it'd come off if I hit it hard enough but........:rolleyes:


Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
FlickR (external link) ◄► "The Other Yongnuo User Guide v4.12" by Clive Bolton (external link) ◄► UK Railway Photographs 1906-79 (external link)

  
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agv8or
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Apr 22, 2013 12:43 |  #1057

Gareth ONeill wrote in post #15853522 (external link)
=Gareth O'Neill;15853522]Any chance you could do a few "real world" shots with this on the 180 as fill for midday overhead sun? I am looking at this for field sports etc.

I will try to get around to it sometime but this time of year my free time during the days is fairly limited especially when it is nice out. I have been wanting to do some comparison testing myself between the telephoto reflector and several other reflectors I have but have yet to find the time. If I get the opportunity how do you want it tested? On camera or off? How far away? "Field sports etc..." encompasses a pretty large window!


Rand

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agv8or
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Apr 22, 2013 12:52 |  #1058

tetrode wrote in post #15854972 (external link)
I like the idea of a "tubidor" but a dual purpose protective cap (as opposed to dual purpose snoot) is, no doubt, a more practical solution. The snoot would be too long to serve as a protective cap/flashtube cocoon.

The tube protector might just work as a storage container with an additional cap:

The additional cap might come with a foam insert to hold the flashtube in place though that probably isn't necessary. Unfortunately, I do not have a spare snoot cap on hand.

It's not just you. I also haven't been able to remove the cap on the conical snoot. It appears to be a friction fit but perhaps there is some adhesive lurking in the joint. I've only tried my limited muscle power without success and haven't been motivated to bring the rubber mallet to bear.

The flash tube protector I made works excellently for storing the bulbs and because the end caps are rubber there is no need for any foam. When a second end is used the bulb is held tightly and securely in the tube with no rattling. I am not sure what would happen if you dropped it on the end where the glass part of the bulb protrudes slightly and I am not going to put that one to any testing. I will provide pictures later on when I get time.

For what it is worth I too have not been able to get the end off the conical snoot so it's nice to see I am not the only one as seems to be the case in other issues. ;)


Rand

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tetrode
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Apr 22, 2013 14:05 |  #1059

agv8or wrote in post #15853490 (external link)
Here is my next project. I am going to use the cut off end of a Lumedyne snoot to modify this Smth Victor 5" reflector and barn doors to fit the Cheetah Light. I figure I am going to need to use my Quantum flash extender to get the bulb far enough into the reflector. Stay tuned.

Have you tried mounting the Smith Victor BD50 barn doors on the umbrella reflector for the CL-180? That reflector is approximately 5-1/4" in diameter and has a nice rolled lip.

Dave F.




  
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Gareth ­ O'Neill
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Apr 22, 2013 14:06 |  #1060

agv8or wrote in post #15855106 (external link)
I will try to get around to it sometime but this time of year my free time during the days is fairly limited especially when it is nice out. I have been wanting to do some comparison testing myself between the telephoto reflector and several other reflectors I have but have yet to find the time. If I get the opportunity how do you want it tested? On camera or off? How far away? "Field sports etc..." encompasses a pretty large window!

Great, thanks


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agv8or
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Apr 22, 2013 15:08 |  #1061

tetrode wrote in post #15855371 (external link)
Have you tried mounting the Smith Victor BD50 barn doors on the umbrella reflector for the CL-180? That reflector is approximately 5-1/4" in diameter and has a nice rolled lip.

Dave F.

I originally bought just the barn doors with this in mind but they were too large for the cheetah reflector. I then bought the SV 5" reflector and it measures 6"....go figure! The SV reflector looks like it would be fairly simple to modify but we'll see. I have another idea if this doesn't work out. Maybe Godox will come out with a barndoor but I do not know the demand for such an accessory.


Rand

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agv8or
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Apr 22, 2013 16:16 as a reply to  @ agv8or's post |  #1062

Here is the pics of the bulb in the flash tube protector. The rubber ends are fairly absorbant and the bulb would be protected under most conditions.


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thenextguy
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Apr 22, 2013 16:23 |  #1063

How much bigger is the 360 going to be? Is it going to be bigger?


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tongki
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Apr 22, 2013 17:37 |  #1064

tetrode wrote in post #15854699 (external link)
I'm sure it's just a matter of increased current delivery. It would be conjecture on my part but I would guess that Quantum never offered a similar accessory for this very reason. The internal Quantum circuitry may not have been specified in anticipation of having to deal with the inrush current a 2-to-1 combiner cable might provide.Then, too, perhaps the Quantum NiMh cells aren't up to the task. As a practical matter, the 150Ws Quantum flashes already recycle quickly so there really wouldn't be much to be gained. Perhaps we have an EE on the forum who could better address this question.

If you're a risk taker, you could always try using the Godox 2-to-1 cable with a Quantum 2x2 pack and T5d-R. Worst that could happen is you brick $1200 worth of flash gear ;)

in theory,
increase in Ampere had no effect on damaging circuitry,
voltage could damage circuit, Ampere no reasons

Ampere mostly related to cables, each cable has it's own specifications,
also, you're right, Quantum nimh battery might not provide enough power
compare to new Lithium batteries


EOS 70D x 2 units + EOS 7D mark II x3 units
Newton FR3, Newton modified bracket, EF 17-40mm x4,EF 24-70mm f/2.8 x2, EF 70-200mm f/2.8 x2
Quantum Trio x2, T5D-R x1 + FW7Q x1, CoPilot x2, Godox AD-180 x5
Propac PB960 head x12, PB960 battery x10
sorry, no stupid speedlite from Canon !

  
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elv
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Apr 22, 2013 19:21 as a reply to  @ tongki's post |  #1065

Dave, this is a long shot (but worth a try), I wonder if they could possibly change the function of the LAMP button on the CL-Tx to engage H mode on the flash instead, by updating the firmware in the flash.

The remote lamp is handy but turning on and off HSS remotely is the biggest omission at the moment. I'm guessing it will have to wait for a new Tx unit. But worth a try.
.


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