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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
windpig
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Apr 26, 2013 21:15 |  #1111

Thanks for that test Dave.

I set up a bare bulb Quadra with the bulb hanging down, no reflector and got F8 at 10 ft, ISO 100 at full power on the A channel, on lowest power on the B channel the meter wouldn't register.

Now I'm trying to work out how to gel the bare bulb CL-360 with CTY or CTO.


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tetrode
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Apr 26, 2013 21:25 |  #1112

windpig wrote in post #15871337 (external link)
Thanks for that test Dave.

I set up a bare bulb Quadra with the bulb hanging down, no reflector and got F8 at 10 ft, ISO 100 at full power on the A channel, on lowest power on the B channel the meter wouldn't register.

Now I'm trying to work out how to gel the bare bulb CL-360 with CTY or CTO.

Was that in your house, Ralph? If so, you must have a darker, less reflective interior than I do. Your f/8 at 10', ISO 100 would equate to f/11, ISO 200 which is exactly what I metered. I would expect the Quadra to be a fraction of a stop brighter than the 360.

Edward and I discussed gelling possibilities just a few days ago. We need to find a good solution for that and I don't mean sticking a CTO disk in the standard reflector.




  
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silvrbullet
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Apr 26, 2013 21:34 |  #1113

dmward wrote in post #15871262 (external link)
Cells-II does NOT support H mode with 5DIII. Edward has Godox working on an update for the firmware. When the test unit arrives I am going to do a through test.

I found that the YN-622 will work with the 5DIII and CL-180 to deliver H mode FP sync. That's what I used for the shot in an earlier post.

I know the cells-II doesn't support H mode on the 5D mark III, but I thought it was still able to work at the max sync speed of 1/200.

Taking the cells-II out of the equation, I still can't get the CL-Tx /Rx to produce a clean image at 1/200, but just on the 5DIII. just curious if others with a 5DIII have similar experiences?


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windpig
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Apr 26, 2013 21:41 |  #1114

I want the mirror over your mantle. Way nice!


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dmward
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Apr 26, 2013 21:51 |  #1115

I had a couple of these http://www.adorama.com​/QTQF62S.html (external link) that I used with my Qflashes in reception venus.

Worked well to keep the light off the walls but still spilled it all over the room.

After some experimenting, I decided the best place to put them was right next to a wall sconce. It would help hide them if they got into the picture and the bright spot seemed natural to the environment.


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Apr 27, 2013 00:10 as a reply to  @ dmward's post |  #1116

Here's a quick HSS test between the Cheetah Reflector and the Quantum Telephoto Reflector.

Canon 5D mii
Cells II transmitter
CL-180 1/1 in H mode
Light 12 feet from subject to camera right at height 6'
ISO 100
1/2000
f/4.0

1st image with Cheetah Reflector
2nd image with Quantum Telephoto Reflector


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windpig
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Apr 27, 2013 07:57 |  #1117

tetrode wrote in post #15871365 (external link)
Was that in your house, Ralph? If so, you must have a darker, less reflective interior than I do. Your f/8 at 10', ISO 100 would equate to f/11, ISO 200 which is exactly what I metered. I would expect the Quadra to be a fraction of a stop brighter than the 360.

Edward and I discussed gelling possibilities just a few days ago. We need to find a good solution for that and I don't mean sticking a CTO disk in the standard reflector.

It looks like the CL360 is pushing Quadra output, I'd love to do a side by side test using the Maxilite, Kacey 22" BD and the 39"DO.

In my office/studio at 5ft high, bulb aimed down, brown - non reflective carpeting.

I really don't want to buy to much power, so I'll have a better idea after this weekend on whether the CL-180 may be the way to go.

With the gel accesory it would be nice to have something like the bulb protector, but in clear plastic that you could wrap gel around.


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Apr 27, 2013 08:17 |  #1118

tetrode wrote in post #15871365 (external link)
Edward and I discussed gelling possibilities just a few days ago. We need to find a good solution for that and I don't mean sticking a CTO disk in the standard reflector.

Currently I use a small piece of CTO velcroed to the reflector. However it would seem that for bare bulb use, making a simple tube of CTO (or other favorite color) and sliding it over the bulb could work. I'll make up a couple and see how they work.


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tetrode
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Apr 27, 2013 08:47 |  #1119

jcolman wrote in post #15872323 (external link)
Currently I use a small piece of CTO velcroed to the reflector. However it would seem that for bare bulb use, making a simple tube of CTO (or other favorite color) and sliding it over the bulb could work. I'll make up a couple and see how they work.

Yes, that would seem the obvious solution, Jim. Rosco makes many types of color correcting tube sleeves. However, temperature is the problem. How many Rosco gels have been welded to the Fresnel's of speedlights over the years? Something like a color correcting Pyrex tube condom would be ideal.




  
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Apr 27, 2013 09:45 |  #1120

tetrode wrote in post #15872367 (external link)
Yes, that would seem the obvious solution, Jim. Rosco makes many types of color correcting tube sleeves. However, temperature is the problem. How many Rosco gels have been welded to the Fresnel's of speedlights over the years? Something like a color correcting Pyrex tube condom would be ideal.

I made this.

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and put it on one of my CL-180's and fired about a dozen full power pops with no melting. However that's not to say that it won't melt with more use. I used some gaffer tape to hold the gel together because it's designed to withstand more heat than ordinary tape.

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Apr 27, 2013 12:42 |  #1121

dmward wrote in post #15867959 (external link)
The tele extender would have been useful here.
The CL-180 was in H mode and at full power.
Playful couple decided to dance with the statuary since there was no water in the fountain.

That meant the CL-180 was at least 10 feet away.

1/640 F5.0 ISO 100. Naturally there is processing, the sun was bright and behind them. The extra two stops would be nice.

Cells II Work with all pre 5D MKII Canon.
see some test photo:
http://www.cheetahstan​d.net …-speed-sync-sample-photo/ (external link)


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Apr 27, 2013 14:08 |  #1122

dmward wrote in post #15871431 (external link)
I had a couple of these http://www.adorama.com​/QTQF62S.html (external link) that I used with my Qflashes in reception venus.

Worked well to keep the light off the walls but still spilled it all over the room.

After some experimenting, I decided the best place to put them was right next to a wall sconce. It would help hide them if they got into the picture and the bright spot seemed natural to the environment.

Use this and tape a gel over the opening. I'll have to try this.


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Apr 27, 2013 15:06 |  #1123

jcolman wrote in post #15872323 (external link)
Currently I use a small piece of CTO velcroed to the reflector. However it would seem that for bare bulb use, making a simple tube of CTO (or other favorite color) and sliding it over the bulb could work. I'll make up a couple and see how they work.

tetrode wrote in post #15872367 (external link)
Yes, that would seem the obvious solution, Jim. Rosco makes many types of color correcting tube sleeves. However, temperature is the problem. How many Rosco gels have been welded to the Fresnel's of speedlights over the years? Something like a color correcting Pyrex tube condom would be ideal.

For those of us with long memories, think back to Dean Collins. He used to do exactly this and then slip it over the Pyrex cover of his 3200Ws Bron units without any (reported) problems (as far as I remember, it's the best part of 20/30 years ago now). Granted, there's a difference between replacing a Pyrex dome and replacing a whole CL-180 tube - the Bron domes are more expensive ;)


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Apr 27, 2013 22:23 |  #1124

Whortleberry wrote in post #15873260 (external link)
For those of us with long memories, think back to Dean Collins. He used to do exactly this and then slip it over the Pyrex cover of his 3200Ws Bron units without any (reported) problems (as far as I remember, it's the best part of 20/30 years ago now). Granted, there's a difference between replacing a Pyrex dome and replacing a whole CL-180 tube - the Bron domes are more expensive ;)

Dean also suggested borrowing strobes for these occasions just in case the gels did melt and stick. :lol:


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tetrode
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Apr 27, 2013 22:33 |  #1125

agv8or wrote in post #15874313 (external link)
Dean also suggested borrowing strobes for these occasions just in case the gels did melt and stick. :lol:

How about a spring clip like this:

IMAGE: http://f.cl.ly/items/2z3L1g2l2V1c3N1A342Z/Flashtube_Spring_Clip.JPG

Installed outside diameter would be 1.67", same as the inside diameter of a Roscosleeve for T12 fluorescent bulbs. Slip two of these over the flashtube and the Roscosleeve over the outside.



  
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