Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy.
OK
Index  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Guest
New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 23 Apr 2013 (Tuesday) 16:55
Search threadPrev/next
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

Location lighting for sports photography.

 
Going ­ Baroque
Senior Member
349 posts
Joined Dec 2009
     
Apr 24, 2013 14:40 as a reply to  @ post 15860639 |  #16

One thing to keep in mind about flash duration is that you have to remember the ambient light will also contribute to the shot (if you are not shooting in the dark). Even with speedlights, and even if you are shooting at night, the general rule is you have to underexpose the background by at least 2 stops in order to freeze action, or else you will have ghosting.

To me, a little motion blur is fine because it implies motion, so this is not that big of an issue. But if you are looking to freeze action on a golf or baseball swing, you might have to think about shooting later in the day when it's not as bright out.....regardless of what gear you have.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)
Joe.Recon
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
674 posts
Joined Jan 2011
Location: 45°25'26.8"N 75°41'56.5"W
     
Apr 24, 2013 15:36 |  #17

Going Baroque wrote in post #15863033 (external link)
One thing to keep in mind about flash duration is that you have to remember the ambient light will also contribute to the shot (if you are not shooting in the dark). Even with speedlights, and even if you are shooting at night, the general rule is you have to underexpose the background by at least 2 stops in order to freeze action, or else you will have ghosting.

To me, a little motion blur is fine because it implies motion, so this is not that big of an issue. But if you are looking to freeze action on a golf or baseball swing, you might have to think about shooting later in the day when it's not as bright out.....regardless of what gear you have.

Very good point, thx. Now you mention underexposing to 2 stops down, and I understand that part, now what would be a good flash speed for golf or baseball swing keeping in mind that I would shoot at sundown? 1/3000th, 1/7000th?


Canon 5D MkIII powered through the following Canon lenses: 16-35 f2.8 L MkII, 24-70 f2.8 L MkII, 70-200 f2.8 L MkII, 17mm TS-E f4 L, 24mm TS-E f2.8 L MkII and 85mm f1.2 L MkII.
Feedback

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Aressem
Goldmember
Avatar
4,364 posts
Gallery: 39 photos
Best ofs: 1
Likes: 511
Joined Dec 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
     
Apr 25, 2013 10:24 |  #18

Joe.Recon wrote in post #15863185 (external link)
Very good point, thx. Now you mention underexposing to 2 stops down, and I understand that part, now what would be a good flash speed for golf or baseball swing keeping in mind that I would shoot at sundown? 1/3000th, 1/7000th?

It's not that simple. As mentioned earlier, there are many factors. How fast is the subject moving? How close is the camera to the subject? Which direction is the subject moving in relation to the camera's sensor? Across the frame or towards the camera? Is there ambient light? How much? How much are you under exposing the ambient light by? And so on... The bottom line is, you need a strobe with a fast (or short) flash duration. If the rated duration is listed as a t.5 duration (most do to inflate the spec), divide by roughly 3. So for example, if a strobe manufacturer claims their strobe has a flash duration of 1/5000 but doesn't specify if it's t.1 or t.5, it's more than likely t.5. Therefore, divide by 3 which = 1/1666. Also remember that most strobes perform best at full power. So, as you dial the power down, your ability to freeze action decreases. The Einstein is measured and advertised as a t.1 duration and only gets better as you dial the power down.

With all that said, you just need to get out there and do it. Perhaps find a shop that rents and sells gear. And tell them that you plan on buying some location lighting equipment but aren't certain what you want yet. Most shops will let you rent and then deduct that cost from your purchase if you decide to buy it.


Ryan Mackay WEBSITE (external link) | FACEBOOK (external link) | GEAR LIST | Buy & Sell Feedback: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
archer1960
Goldmember
Avatar
4,930 posts
Gallery: 6 photos
Likes: 81
Joined Jul 2010
     
Apr 25, 2013 10:35 |  #19

hes gone wrote in post #15859644 (external link)
=he's gone;15859644]i'm not a sports photog, but no golfer is going to allow you to use a flash.

generally football and baseball are too far away for flash to be of much effect.

often basketball games restrict flash use.

tthe stop action/short duration they are talking about are for VERY fast moving objects, things that are faster than most humans.


finally, i may be off base on any of these issues. :D
but i don't think i am.

Why no flash? It's a staged shot, not during a real competition..


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Aressem
Goldmember
Avatar
4,364 posts
Gallery: 39 photos
Best ofs: 1
Likes: 511
Joined Dec 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
     
Apr 25, 2013 10:39 |  #20

Another option would be to buy a powerful strobe with a slow flash duration and pair that with some Hypersync capable transceivers like the flex/mini combo. I have a ranger but I purchased the kit with the "A" head for action (short duration). I'm considering buying an "S" head and picking up the flex/mini to play with Hypersync. There are some users on the forum with great results all the way up to 1/8000 sync speed! I've also considered buying an AB1600 or white lightning X3200 to test this as well but never pulled the trigger. Just some food for thought.


Ryan Mackay WEBSITE (external link) | FACEBOOK (external link) | GEAR LIST | Buy & Sell Feedback: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
archer1960
Goldmember
Avatar
4,930 posts
Gallery: 6 photos
Likes: 81
Joined Jul 2010
     
Apr 25, 2013 10:41 |  #21

One thing I seem to be missing here: if you can shoot during bright daylight, you should be able to crank up your shutter speed enough to stop (or nearly so) just about any sport without a flash. 1/8000 sec is pretty fast, and that should be achievable in daylight with a reasonably fast lens.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
Combating camera shame since 1977...
Avatar
9,897 posts
Gallery: 15 photos
Likes: 2361
Joined Jun 2011
Location: The Uwharrie Mts, NC
     
Apr 25, 2013 10:50 |  #22

archer1960 wrote in post #15865949 (external link)
Why no flash? It's a staged shot, not during a real competition..

after i replied, he edited the post for clarification.

cheers!


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
archer1960
Goldmember
Avatar
4,930 posts
Gallery: 6 photos
Likes: 81
Joined Jul 2010
     
Apr 25, 2013 10:53 |  #23

hes gone wrote in post #15865985 (external link)
=he's gone;15865985]after i replied, he edited the post for clarification.

cheers!

I would have realized that if I had read the rest of the thread before responding...


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Aressem
Goldmember
Avatar
4,364 posts
Gallery: 39 photos
Best ofs: 1
Likes: 511
Joined Dec 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
     
Apr 25, 2013 12:26 |  #24

archer1960 wrote in post #15865961 (external link)
One thing I seem to be missing here: if you can shoot during bright daylight, you should be able to crank up your shutter speed enough to stop (or nearly so) just about any sport without a flash. 1/8000 sec is pretty fast, and that should be achievable in daylight with a reasonably fast lens.

Because you can't take shots like this...

IMAGE: https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/883220_430509697033977_799014312_o.jpg

And this...

IMAGE: https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/886605_430171843734429_774018407_o.jpg

... With only natural light

Ryan Mackay WEBSITE (external link) | FACEBOOK (external link) | GEAR LIST | Buy & Sell Feedback: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Joe.Recon
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
674 posts
Joined Jan 2011
Location: 45°25'26.8"N 75°41'56.5"W
     
Apr 30, 2013 19:37 as a reply to  @ Aressem's post |  #25

OK...

After much reading and research, I ended up buying the Ranger RX Speed AS with a Ranger A head. I will be putting that to work of a mountain bike shoot and then a Karate shoot (Posing with flying kicks).

Thank you all for your great input as it helped me in my purchase.


Canon 5D MkIII powered through the following Canon lenses: 16-35 f2.8 L MkII, 24-70 f2.8 L MkII, 70-200 f2.8 L MkII, 17mm TS-E f4 L, 24mm TS-E f2.8 L MkII and 85mm f1.2 L MkII.
Feedback

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
aliengin
Goldmember
1,158 posts
Likes: 77
Joined Mar 2011
     
May 01, 2013 08:51 |  #26

Aressem wrote in post #15866345 (external link)
Because you can't take shots like this...

QUOTED IMAGE

And this...

QUOTED IMAGE

... With only natural light

What is the flash on those?


Ali Engin Photography (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Aressem
Goldmember
Avatar
4,364 posts
Gallery: 39 photos
Best ofs: 1
Likes: 511
Joined Dec 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
     
May 03, 2013 00:12 |  #27

aliengin wrote in post #15886303 (external link)
What is the flash on those?

Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed AS with an 'A' head.


Ryan Mackay WEBSITE (external link) | FACEBOOK (external link) | GEAR LIST | Buy & Sell Feedback: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

3,517 views & 0 likes for this thread
Location lighting for sports photography.
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
AAA
x 1600
y 1600

Jump to forum...   •  Rules   •  Index   •  New posts   •  RTAT   •  'Best of'   •  Gallery   •  Gear   •  Reviews   •  Member list   •  Polls   •  Image rules   •  Search   •  Password reset

Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!


COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and to our privacy policy.
Privacy policy and cookie usage info.


POWERED BY AMASS forum software 2.1forum software
version 2.1 /
code and design
by Pekka Saarinen ©
for photography-on-the.net

Latest registered member is Hanna16
870 guests, 360 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 15144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018

Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.