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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 19 May 2013 (Sunday) 10:25
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Bottleneck from 135f2l on t3i?

 
Romax12
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May 19, 2013 10:25 |  #1

Hello guys.

Im considering adding the 135 f2l to my collection.
Ive seen alot of reviews of real-world-testing and they all say that the lens is really sharp, but looking ar the iso1233 tool on the digitial picture.com i see that this lens is not so amazing or different than my 18-135 at 135.
Is it true? Do I really need to get a full frame body to get the max out of the lens?

Edit: what i meant in the testing was changing the body from 1ds mark iii to 60d


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May 19, 2013 10:42 |  #2

it's 3 stops faster than your 18-135mm...that's what you're paying for...135mm is a pretty long primefor a crop...what are your intended uses for it?


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May 19, 2013 10:44 |  #3

The 135Lfast lens will make your jaw drop on any body once you see the pic on your monitor. I shoot with both a ff and 1.6x body and it's equally amazing on both.


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May 19, 2013 10:44 |  #4

Romax12 wrote in post #15946519 (external link)
Hello guys.

Im considering adding the 135 f2l to my collection.
Ive seen alot of reviews of real-world-testing and they all say that the lens is really sharp, but looking ar the iso1233 tool on the digitial picture.com i see that this lens is not so amazing or different than my 18-135 at 135.
Is it true? Do I really need to get a full frame body to get the max out of the lens?

Edit: what i meant in the testing was changing the body from 1ds mark iii to 60d

Yes! It's a matter of physics... The lens will dump a certain number of lines per mm on the sensor. A sensor that is 1.6 times longer will capture 1.6 times more lines than the crop. Since you are reviewing the same size photo from either sensor (with pretty much similar number of pixels in the same dimension...) you will get more sharpness from the full frame.

Assuming that your sensor pixel density does not push the resolving power of the lens etc etc.

EDIT: Not that I don't grin like an idiot every time I look at a photo of the EF70-20 MkII taken with my 60D... :D


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Romax12
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May 19, 2013 11:33 |  #5

DreDaze wrote in post #15946570 (external link)
it's 3 stops faster than your 18-135mm...that's what you're paying for...135mm is a pretty long primefor a crop...what are your intended uses for it?

I know, but im also giving uo IS etc'.. what I meant was a diffrence in image quality.

The other who have reply, thank you both.
I think that I will get this lens, cause like Kai says: bodies get outdated, but the lenses not.


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gasrocks
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May 19, 2013 11:36 |  #6

For a beginner with a Rebel and kit lens, I kinda hate to see them try to spend $1K or more on a lens next. Why not work your way up? The EF 135/2.8 is a great lens, almost as sharp as the f/2 version and much faster than what you have now. Are you even sure 135mm should be your next pourchase? Gene


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Wilt
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May 19, 2013 11:37 |  #7

MakisM1 wrote in post #15946577 (external link)
Yes! It's a matter of physics... The lens will dump a certain number of lines per mm on the sensor. A sensor that is 1.6 times longer will capture 1.6 times more lines than the crop. Since you are reviewing the same size photo from either sensor (with pretty much similar number of pixels in the same dimension...) you will get more sharpness from the full frame.

Assuming that your sensor pixel density does not push the resolving power of the lens etc etc.

EDIT: Not that I don't grin like an idiot every time I look at a photo of the EF70-20 MkII taken with my 60D... :D

^

For example, photozone.de says 50mm f/1.4 permits a 15MPixel FF camera to capture 3740 line-pairs per frame height while
a 15MPixel APS-C camera only captures 2598 line-pairs per frame height

The large a format size, the more TOTAL RESOLUTION can be achieved, plus the captured image has to be magnified a lesser amount in order to make given frame size, so that the resolution on print is higher with larger formats, too. For example,
We magnify FF by about 8.5x, while we magnify the smaller APS-C by about 13.6x, to make an 8x10 from each.

  • FF: 3740/24 = 156 line-pairs per mm on sensor; and 156/8.5 = 18.4 line-pairs per mm on print
  • APS-C: 2598/14.9 = 174 line-pairs per mm on sensor; but 174/13.6 = 12.8 line-pairs per mm on print


If course, the underlying assumption of the above comparison is that you FRAME the shot for same content with both FF and APS-C...which means that you stand 1.6x farther away with APS-C camera!

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May 19, 2013 11:39 |  #8

Is all this tech talk really helping anyone?


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May 19, 2013 11:40 |  #9

Romax12 wrote in post #15946713 (external link)
I know, but im also giving uo IS etc'.. what I meant was a diffrence in image quality.

The other who have reply, thank you both.
I think that I will get this lens, cause like Kai says: bodies get outdated, but the lenses not.

again though, what are you planning on using it for...i have a 135mm f2.8, and I think it has limited uses for a crop camera


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May 19, 2013 11:43 |  #10

gasrocks wrote in post #15946735 (external link)
Is all this tech talk really helping anyone?

The OP asked, "Do I really need to get a full frame body to get the max out of the lens?", and the technical background behind the analysis and the truth behind the answer is provided for better comprehension.


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May 19, 2013 11:54 |  #11

photozone.de reports that 18-135mm lens at 135mm FL provides 2439 line-pairs per frame height from 15MPixel APS-C camera... a mere 6% increase in delivered resolution from the 135mm f/2 lens, and that is a sufficiently small difference to not necessarily impress someone!


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May 19, 2013 11:57 as a reply to  @ gasrocks's post |  #12

Sure, you could say you need FF to realize the full potential of any lens…

But that doesn't mean it's not worth owning on a crop. Sharpness is just one piece of the puzzle. There's also focusing speed, bokeh, aperture, build quality, all of which may be different than your existing lenses even if you found sharpness to be the same…

But you should consider gasrocks's advice. As your first big purchase after the kit lenses, this may be overkill. What are your needs and what do you want to shoot? You might be better served by getting two or three other lenses that are less expensive (but still good!) to round out your collection rather than blowing it all on one über-lens as your first purchase.


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Romax12
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May 19, 2013 12:03 |  #13

gasrocks, FIY, im not a super reach guy who is looking to spend money on useless things he doesn't even like - i'm considering all of my options, and look at every singel lens and camera reviews out there, and saving money since last year - because im 16. As I said, money doesn't grow on trees and I don't want to get the wrong decision when talking about 1k in dollars.
I feel that my current equipment limits my photography, and I want to go one step ahead.
I like shooting family and friends, from the waist-above-head style. I also like take pictures of my dog running and landscapes and wildlife.
I also considered the 100-400, beacuse we are planning a trip to tanzania next april (nothing's certain though). So im in the boat for my next purchase.


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May 19, 2013 12:14 |  #14

Romax,
As proven by the MTF values in photozone.de tests, you will not see a significant gain in overall detail resolution by purchasing a 135mm f/2 lens over your current zoom.
My advice, in view of that fact, is that you look to spend your hard-to-acquire money on something that increases the flexibility of your shooting environment... a 100-400mm might be right, but you might simply ask your parents to help you to RENT that lens, and spend the money saved on a lens that helps you in everyday shooting; you might find

  • a somewhat wider AOV than 18mm provides, and/or
  • a 50-250mm lens might be more valuable to you even when not in Tanzania. Or you might find that
  • a faster max aperture lens -- even though it falls within the 18-135mm range that you already own -- allows you to shoot in lower light without flash more often.
  • Or a good quality tripod and ballhead might do more to improve the quality of your shots, even with your existing equipment!

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Romax12
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May 19, 2013 12:21 |  #15

Wilt wrote in post #15946813 (external link)
Romax,
As proven by the MTF values in photozone.de tests, you will not see a significant gain in overall detail resolution by purchasing a 135mm f/2 lens over your current zoom.
My advice, in view of that fact, is that you look to spend your hard-to-acquire money on something that increases the flexibility of your shooting environment... a 100-400mm might be right, but you might simply ask your parents to help you to RENT that lens, and spend the money saved on a lens that helps you in everyday shooting; you might find
  • a somewhat wider AOV than 18mm provides, and/or
  • a 50-250mm lens might be more valuable to you even when not in Tanzania. Or you might find that
  • a faster max aperture lens -- even though it falls within the 18-135mm range that you already own -- allows you to shoot in lower light without flash more often.
  • Or a good quality tripod and ballhead might do more to improve the quality of your shots, even with your existing equipment!

what's AOV?
and i have a manfrotto mk294 I think is the name.. with a 3d head. I find myself shooting 90% of the time at the long end, and only going wider for landscapes, astrophotograpy, group shots etc'


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--- EF-S 18-135 f3.5-5.6 IS --- EF 70-200 f2.8 L IS usm ---
600ex-rt and yn-622c (2x)

  
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Bottleneck from 135f2l on t3i?
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