Compact Fluorescent Ring Light Ver.2

hes gone wrote in post #16000133
=he's gone;16000133]right on, looks like i was editing my post as you posted.

are those standard CFL bulbs? or something better than you can get at the hardware store?

Yea, they are standard.

iso 640
f3.5
1/160th

Not bad, what watt are those CFL's? With a ring flash or flash/strobes you can shoot at at lower iso and higher f stop to get a crisper image. This is nice with the face of the model infocus fading slightly on the body, but if you were to bump up the f stop to like f8 - f16 the you would be at a lower shutter and higher iso. If these are low watt bulbs like 40-60 watt I wonder what a 100+ watt bulbs would yield? Also what color temp are the bulbs?

Very good result for a DIY continuous lighting ring light. (Compact, LOL) Well done.

Sevan

S.E.V. wrote in post #16001712
iso 640
f3.5
1/160th

Not bad, what watt are those CFL's? With a ring flash or flash/strobes you can shoot at at lower iso and higher f stop to get a crisper image. This is nice with the face of the model infocus fading slightly on the body, but if you were to bump up the f stop to like f8 - f16 the you would be at a lower shutter and higher iso. If these are low watt bulbs like 40-60 watt I wonder what a 100+ watt bulbs would yield? Also what color temp are the bulbs?

Very good result for a DIY continuous lighting ring light. (Compact, LOL) Well done.

Sevan

They are 40s. And idk about the color temp.

Yeah too low, drop in some 100-120watt bulbs, then you can achieve a higher f-stop for different DOF shots, seem like right now your limited to f4.

I think the difference between continuous lighting and flash/strobe lighting is that even at 1/100 or 1/60 the flash freezes the subject as were continuous lighting you can get a shaky/blurry image much more easily at those shutter speeds if shooting hand held, hence why the higher watt to pump out more like for a higher shutter speed. Just my opinion.

Sevan

S.E.V. wrote in post #16005183
Yeah too low, drop in some 100-120watt bulbs, then you can achieve a higher f-stop for different DOF shots, seem like right now your limited to f4.

I think the difference between continuous lighting and flash/strobe lighting is that even at 1/100 or 1/60 the flash freezes the subject as were continuous lighting you can get a shaky/blurry image much more easily at those shutter speeds if shooting hand held, hence why the higher watt to pump out more like for a higher shutter speed. Just my opinion.

Sevan

I actually want to be able to shoot at f3.5 or lower, that's why i didn't buy strong bulbs for this. I like my f1.4 lens.

Mr.Glock wrote in post #16004306
They are 40s. And idk about the color temp.

your original post said 60w bulbs.

very seriously considering this or maybe even some panels.

Incredible creation!!

You probably don't want any bulbs too strong because the nature of continuous lighting being right in your face, for light sensitive models (people), it will be uncomfortable. I have a couple of those ebay continuous lighting kits for product shoots. With all the bulbs on, I'd squint standing close to the lights.

Mr.Glock wrote in post #16006262
I actually want to be able to shoot at f3.5 or lower, that's why i didn't buy strong bulbs for this. I like my f1.4 lens.

You can still shot f3.5 with the stronger bulbs, you will just have a higher shutter speed.

Outstandling craftmanship! I love this DIY solution. The photography result is really nice: soft even light with an excellent catch light in the eyes, which is way better than the catch light from umbrella, softbox, strip lights, etc.

hyperq wrote in post #16016034
Outstandling craftmanship! I love this DIY solution. The photography result is really nice: soft even light with an excellent catch light in the eyes, which is way better than the catch light from umbrella, softbox, strip lights, etc.

Thanks bud!

Bumping this because I saw this linked in another thread...

My only concern is that it looks as if you've installed 2 bare wires which run around the interior of the device. I am afraid this would cause a serious shock hazard. Wouldn't piggy backing the wires to each light work a little safer? You could have put wire nuts on each pair and tape them up so as not to have as much as a shock hazard.

That would be the only thing I would change. Otherwise, it's a great idea.

Mr.Glock.

That is a great piece of workmanship.

There is something really satisfying about creating something of this ilk and seeing the finished result.