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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 19 Mar 2013 (Tuesday) 17:58
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What is your lens micro adjust technique?

 
Scrumhalf
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Mar 24, 2013 09:30 |  #31

So I gave DotTune a whirl yesterday on my 17-55. I followed the procedure on the FM link and got a successful focus range of -14 to +8 for the 55mm end, and -10 to +16 for the 17mm range. So, slightly wider range for the 17mm end, which makes sense.

The average for the 55mm end is -3 and the average for the 17mm end is +3. The average of the two is of course zero, and I am guessing that the lens was set up perfectly at the factory in terms of being balanced between the long and short ends. I am an engineer and I will follow my profession's credo and since the lens is tack sharp, I will leave it the *@_* alone.

All in all, the method was very straightforward. I might try this out on my 100-400 later today. I will need to stick the pattern sheet on my car window and do it in the parking lot. My residence, palatial as it is, does not have any 20m clear lines of sight.. :lol:


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Mar 27, 2013 15:15 |  #32

Am I right in thinking that your camera should be 1.75m away from the target when tuning a 35mm on a FF camera? Even at x10 in LV it was hard to manually focus perfectly as I could barely see the target


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Mar 27, 2013 18:17 |  #33

Invertalon wrote in post #15738071 (external link)
I used FoCal until Dot-Tune came out and is much more reliable/accurate/quic​k...

I'll give dot tune ago, I have never been happy with FoCal.


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Mar 27, 2013 19:05 |  #34

I've found the most effective way, at least for longer focal lengths, is to put my tripod on my truck bed and take shots of a tennis ball in a grass field at dusk. The point where the grass is in focus will tell you what direction you need to go.

I also have Lens Align, but find it a PITA to set up.


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Heath
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Mar 27, 2013 20:39 |  #35

It appears that Focal now uses Dot Tune as one of it's options.

They call it Turbo Calibration Test.

You can either let Focal set the focus, or you can manually set it, then you switch the lens to manual, then focal finds the micro adjust that matches the focus you have set.

I am guessing that it works the same way ML works, just with tethering instead of installing revised firmware.


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Mar 28, 2013 00:47 |  #36

RWatkins wrote in post #15763187 (external link)
I've found the most effective way, at least for longer focal lengths, is to put my tripod on my truck bed and take shots of a tennis ball in a grass field at dusk. The point where the grass is in focus will tell you what direction you need to go.

I also have Lens Align, but find it a PITA to set up.

I do the same but with a wad of paper on a soccer field. I just stand a distance away and click handheld.


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huntersdad
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Mar 28, 2013 07:23 |  #37

I've never used the 50x FL for any MAing - be it a W/A or super tele. I MA'd my 500 at about 40-50 feet. If you used the 50x theory, you'd almost be at infinity (85ft vs 90ft.) which really wouldn't make a lot of sense. I even asked my local camera store about it and they MA any lens that comes in for their use or a customer's personal lens at about 1ft. past MFD. They're all spot on after MA.


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marcosv
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Mar 28, 2013 09:27 |  #38

I use the Lens Align Mk II. It's more intuitive and using boresite techniques to make sure your target is perpendicular to your sensor plane. You get good feedback if your settings are resulting in front or back focusing with every test shot. It is fast to setup accurately, especially when I'm trying different focal lengths with the same lens.

I also bought FoCal, but, wasn't happy with repeat-ability, the number of test shots, and setup.


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Mar 28, 2013 11:21 as a reply to  @ marcosv's post |  #39

I do it at the average focus distance I use the lens at.

Always ensure the 'target' is square witht he camera/sensor. The target could be anything with text on for me, beer box for example.
Camera on tripod & autofocus.
Flick to LV x10.
See if it is sharp.
If not, turning in which direction of the focus ring makes it sharpest.
Adjust MA.
Unfocus lens.
Do it again.

OR manual focus in LV x10.
Then autofocus & use the distance scale to determine if auto focusing has changed & in which direction to adjust MA the opposite.

Yeah, not scientific but works for me :)


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Invertalon
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Mar 28, 2013 11:51 |  #40

Dot-Tune is by far the best method out there. It's free as well.

I have used them ALL. Trust me. Dot-Tune is the most accurate out of them all, and quickest.


One little suggestion though, for more accurate results with dot-tune... Use a remote shutter if possible when doing telephoto lenses. This stops the camera from shaking/bouncing when focusing. You get more reliable results this way since you never have to touch the camera, only to switch from AF/MF on the lens.


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Mar 28, 2013 12:09 |  #41

Regarding the 50x rule: it is just a suggestion. Beyond 50xFL, the changes in the optical scheme (due to movements of lens elements used for focusing) are so small that the lens can be considered to be not changing - for MFA purposes at least. So basically if tuned at 50xFL, it should work for any distance between 50xFL and infinity.

But there are important exceptions. E.g., UWA lenses are typically used for landscapes - it would be meaningless for me to tune my Sigma 10-20mm at 0.5m distance. Instead, I created a larger target, specifically for UWA calibration, and place it 2-3m away. Also, macro lenses should instead be tuned at the closest distance, where they are used the most (and where the IQ should be the best - this facilitates MFA calibration).

As others said, the best rule is to calibrate at the distance mostly used with this lens.


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Apr 05, 2013 19:37 |  #42

I used this Dot-Tune method recently for a number of lenses on the 5D III, and I am very happy with the results!


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ekinnyc
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Jun 15, 2013 11:17 |  #43

so i did dot tune on my 50d w 24-70 Mk I

on the 24mm end i got +2 -16
on the 70mm end i got +14 -2

almost seems to me that -9 on the W end and +8 on the T end.... i use all various FL with this lens, so i cant really say there is one particular focal length i can calibrate to. so should i just leave my lens at 0?


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Jun 15, 2013 16:41 |  #44

ekinnyc wrote in post #16033471 (external link)
so i did dot tune on my 50d w 24-70 Mk I

on the 24mm end i got +2 -16
on the 70mm end i got +14 -2

almost seems to me that -9 on the W end and +8 on the T end.... i use all various FL with this lens, so i cant really say there is one particular focal length i can calibrate to. so should i just leave my lens at 0?

I have the same question.


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Jun 15, 2013 18:37 |  #45

My most effective method was to go outside with tripod, good light, find a nice flat and perpendicular target, set live view and focus with 10x, note precisely the position on the scale of the lens! then change mFA until the phase focus gets to the same scale position (there is some very small variability between different focus, even with live view).

But this Dot Tune method is just so smart and evident! There is only one slight problem with its first version: it is often said that 1/3 of the DOF is in front of the subject and 2/3 is beyond? (I didn't read the whole FM forum thread, and surely, they discuss this point). In this case the average should not be taken as MFA value, but 1/3 more than the shortest blinking focus?

To take an example from the previous post:

ekinnyc wrote in post #16033471 (external link)
so i did dot tune on my 50d w 24-70 Mk I

on the 24mm end i got +2 -16
on the 70mm end i got +14 -2

almost seems to me that -9 on the W end and +8 on the T end.... i use all various FL with this lens, so i cant really say there is one particular focal length i can calibrate to. so should i just leave my lens at 0?

Average MFA would be:

-7 at 24mm (+2 - -16 = 18 => 18/2 = 9 => -16 + 9 = -7)
+6 at 70mm.

(that's right hard to correct if both ends are equally used)

But with the DOF -1/3 +2/3 rule, the correct MFA should then be:

-10 at 24mm (+2 - -16 = 18 => 18/3 = 6 => -16 + 6 = -10)
+3 at 70mm.

Here a -3 or -4 MFA could be worth a try? What do you say?




  
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What is your lens micro adjust technique?
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