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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
dmward
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Jun 22, 2013 09:36 |  #1591

nicksan wrote in post #16048703 (external link)
I don't normally shoot that way (full power and continuous shooting) so I am not worried. I do occasionally fire off a few in a row by pressing on the shutter quickly. I was just testing to see what I can get out of the Cheetah pack b/c I have heard great things about it using it with a Speedlight. I wasn't disappointed. Again, my finger couldn't keep up with the recycle time at full power. So this is MUCH better than the 8 x AA pack (CP-E4 clone) that I have been using.

The battery pack alone is worth buying!

I just did a quick test with three 600EX-RTs, Pixel Pack with 8 rechargeable batteries and Cheetah L4500. I had freshly charged Eneloops in the speedlites. The rechargable batteries in the Pixel pack were also freshly recharged.

Pixel Pack and L4500 recycled in .7 sec. Eneloops in third 600EX-RT took 1.7 sec.

L4500 is definitely the preferred battery option. Many more pops than the AA packs, and the battery power indicator is nice.


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Jun 22, 2013 10:51 |  #1592

dmward wrote in post #16054380 (external link)
Dave F also demonstrated a long time ago that its a simple matter to adapt a PLM V2 mount to an S mount adapter ring.

Do you have the reference to Dave's post?




  
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Chad ­ D
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Jun 22, 2013 14:35 |  #1593

thanks :)
question which one would you most trust not to slip with a deep 100 octa on it ?

dmward wrote in post #16054380 (external link)
I have both the Cheetah Pro bracket and the Kacey with an Elinchrom adapter.
Both will work. The Cheetah Pro is a smaller unit and S mount speedring adapters are plentiful.
Dave F also demonstrated a long time ago that its a simple matter to adapt a PLM V2 mount to an S mount adapter ring.

That's the way I'd go. I just have to take the time to drill the three holes in one of the S adapters I have laying around.


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dmward
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Jun 22, 2013 14:47 |  #1594

Chad D wrote in post #16055063 (external link)
thanks :)
question which one would you most trust not to slip with a deep 100 octa on it ?

Either.
I've put a Fotodiox 30" octa on the Pro and it works like a charm. Also on the Kacey.
I have the Kacey version that uses a grip head as a mounting and tightening device so its super strong.

I have both Elinchrom and S mount adapter rings for the octa. If I get time I'll mount it with a CL-360 on each bracket for comparison.


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swldstn
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Jun 22, 2013 15:32 |  #1595

Yes, my error ~50 Wh.

Now on the Eneloops I used 1.5V nominal since the 11.1V for the LS4500 is also a nominal operating voltage I believe. Both will decrease with load and discharge.

pwm2 wrote in post #16047902 (external link)
With 50000 Wh (50 kWh) I could power a tower computer for quite some time.

Do be careful about that mAh part of the equation. mAh * V -> mWh.

Let's say the Eneloops have an average voltage of 1.3V. Then 8 2000mA cells will end up with a total of 8*1.3*2000 mWh i.e. 8*1.3*2 Wh i.e. 20.8 Wh. When computing the total amount of energy, it doesn't matter if the batteries are in series or in paralell. Each battery have about 1.3*2 = 2.6 Wh. So 8 batteries will hold 8 times more energy.

The amount of energy you will actually be able to get out of the battery pack will depend on the load, i.e. how large current that is taken out from each individual cell.

With a large discharge current, you will be able to get less energy from the accumulators before the voltage drops too low to be usable. With a low discharge current, you will manage to get out more total energy.

So if you see the specification of 2000mAh for an Eneloop, that is specified with a specific discharge current and until the cell voltage reaches a specific limit. With lower load, you would get more than 2000mAh from it. With a bigger load, you would get less than 2000mAh from it.


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Chad ­ D
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Jun 22, 2013 15:41 |  #1596

thanks :)

since you have a Kacey one question do you think you could use that double one he has and shove two 360 heads into that hole ? or would it be to small of a opening ?
does that make sense ? kinda how you can use two speedlights ? figuring the head on the 360 is actually pretty small :)

had thought when I need/want that extra bit of light would be a cool option
selling my photogenic gear and going with the cheetahs I think since they are nicer than I thought they would be :)

dmward wrote in post #16055076 (external link)
Either.
I've put a Fotodiox 30" octa on the Pro and it works like a charm. Also on the Kacey.
I have the Kacey version that uses a grip head as a mounting and tightening device so its super strong.

I have both Elinchrom and S mount adapter rings for the octa. If I get time I'll mount it with a CL-360 on each bracket for comparison.


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dmward
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Jun 22, 2013 15:53 |  #1597

Chad D wrote in post #16055202 (external link)
thanks :)

since you have a Kacey one question do you think you could use that double one he has and shove two 360 heads into that hole ? or would it be to small of a opening ?
does that make sense ? kinda how you can use two speedlights ? figuring the head on the 360 is actually pretty small :)

had thought when I need/want that extra bit of light would be a cool option
selling my photogenic gear and going with the cheetahs I think since they are nicer than I thought they would be :)

My Kacey bracket is a double. The opening is big enough for two 580 Heads so I expect that the 360 heads will fit through. I'll give it a go and let you know. Including pictures.


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swldstn
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Jun 22, 2013 16:08 |  #1598

butterfly2937 wrote in post #16049952 (external link)
I agree I was just wondering what light meter and trigger combo people are using with these flashes.

I use my Sekonic 758DR to fire a PW Plus III and the CL-Tx/Rx to set the power level or
I use my Sekonix 758Dr to fire a PW Plus IiI to trigger the shutter, which sets off the ST-E3-RT which fires my 600EX-RTs and and the optically trigger the CL-180 or us a PC connection to the CL-180 or a PC to hotshoe for the CL-Tx/Rx

It can be complicated.


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nicksan
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Jun 22, 2013 17:36 |  #1599

dmward wrote in post #16054487 (external link)
I just did a quick test with three 600EX-RTs, Pixel Pack with 8 rechargeable batteries and Cheetah L4500. I had freshly charged Eneloops in the speedlites. The rechargable batteries in the Pixel pack were also freshly recharged.

Pixel Pack and L4500 recycled in .7 sec. Eneloops in third 600EX-RT took 1.7 sec.

L4500 is definitely the preferred battery option. Many more pops than the AA packs, and the battery power indicator is nice.

I have been using the Pixel Pack with 8 Eneloops and while it's good, there's no way I can fire off 5-10 shots in a row (finger pressing each frame, not in burst mode) at full power. With the Cheetah pack, it seems like I can keep going and going. Yeah, forget about Eneloops in the 600EX without a pack!

But I want to do more testing.




  
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dmward
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Jun 22, 2013 18:23 |  #1600

nicksan wrote in post #16055463 (external link)
I have been using the Pixel Pack with 8 Eneloops and while it's good, there's no way I can fire off 5-10 shots in a row (finger pressing each frame, not in burst mode) at full power. With the Cheetah pack, it seems like I can keep going and going. Yeah, forget about Eneloops in the 600EX without a pack!

But I want to do more testing.


Nick,
These test times were with a lengthly period between to ensure the flash was fully charged even with just the internal batteries.

Going a fire when ready test is likely to provide different results because the L4500 is so much larger in capacity. The batteries I had in the pack were 2500mAh. I'm sure that influences performance over time.

With the 600s being so finicky about heat I try really hard not to get trigger happy, even in ETTL where the flash is working much less hard.

When I was setting up the test, the speedlite with the L4500 plugged in was set at 1/8 power from an earlier shoot. The recycle was essentially instantaneous.

Here is a post in another thread that adds a third option to the mix.


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butterfly2937
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Jun 22, 2013 18:30 |  #1601

swldstn wrote in post #16055265 (external link)
I use my Sekonic 758DR to fire a PW Plus III and the CL-Tx/Rx to set the power level or
I use my Sekonix 758Dr to fire a PW Plus IiI to trigger the shutter, which sets off the ST-E3-RT which fires my 600EX-RTs and and the optically trigger the CL-180 or us a PC connection to the CL-180 or a PC to hotshoe for the CL-Tx/Rx

It can be complicated.

So in this setup you have the PW Plus III connected to the camera in the plug that you would use for a shutter release??? ( I assume the PW comes with this cable) Then you have the ER-RT in the camera hot shoe? Now if you optically trigger the CL-180 doesn't the preflash from the 600 RT cause a problem? If you needed to adjust the power on the cheetah lights you are hand holding the CL-TX/RW and you still need a CL/TX/RW on the CL-180 plus some kind of PW trigger if you want to meter each individual cheetah light and trigger without manually walking up to each flash or do these CL180 or CL-360 have a built in CL receiver? Does the CL- TX/RW have only the connection to the PC port?

I suppose I could use a Cyber commander to meter and trigger the flash and a CyberCync plus a CL-RW on the Cheetah light. Does the CL-RW use a different port therefor leaving the PC port on the Cheetah light free? Can the CL-TX attach to the camer PC port for triggering as well leaving the hot shoe open for another transmitter to trigger Canon flashes?


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butterfly2937
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Jun 22, 2013 18:31 as a reply to  @ butterfly2937's post |  #1602

Does anyone know if the HSS feature works with the 1D4 and 1DX?


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dmward
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Jun 22, 2013 23:51 |  #1603

butterfly2937 wrote in post #16055580 (external link)
Does anyone know if the HSS feature works with the 1D4 and 1DX?

If you mean H mode, it will work depending on the trigger mounted on the camera.
The 1D4 should work with the Cells II.
The 1Dx will work using a trigger like the Yongnou YN-622 which will switch the camera to HSS and permit it to sync using FP-sync with the CL-xxx in H mode.
Edward has asked Godox to update the firmware in the Cell-II trigger to support 2012 cameras. When that is complete the 1Dx and ID4 will both work with newer version Cells-II.


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Jun 23, 2013 13:07 |  #1604

dmward wrote in post #16055076 (external link)
Either.
I've put a Fotodiox 30" octa on the Pro and it works like a charm. Also on the Kacey.
I have the Kacey version that uses a grip head as a mounting and tightening device so its super strong.

I have both Elinchrom and S mount adapter rings for the octa. If I get time I'll mount it with a CL-360 on each bracket for comparison.

If you get the kacey bracket, I would definitely get the grip head option. I have the standard double bracket, and it wants to constantly tilt downward. I'm using a pair of vice grips on it now to lock the tilt upright..


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Jun 23, 2013 14:18 |  #1605

NoOneHome wrote in post #15747669 (external link)
I've seen colour shifts with modifiers before, mainly with the materials used for the white diffusion fabric.

elv wrote in post #15748073 (external link)
Thanks for doing the test. I don't have the octobox either, but it sounds like it has to be the diffusion material if you are getting consistent results with the bare reflector.

I wonder if there is any chance there is a Chimera diffuser to fit. They are pretty spot on.

I think if you try some other Chinese softboxes etc you may see similar colour shifts as NoOneHome mentioned.
.

CheetahStand wrote in post #15748341 (external link)
Just checked,6600K,use Minolta clolor meter III,Change to Chimera diffuser:5900K.
Thank you guys,I'll get right on this.I think it just matter change from pure white to off white material will do. see what I can do.because there is no inner baffer,otherwise will be easy just a narrow strip of 1/4 CTO will do.just like those E6 days....

Once again,Thank you for the input,

NoOneHome wrote in post #15748417 (external link)
Before people start getting their you-who-what's in a bunch, just remember that this isn't a Cheetah issue. Most modifiers will introduce a colour cast. The more established (and MUCH higher priced) brands test for this and (mostly) solved the problem a while ago. Comparing a Cheetah modifier to a Chimera isn't an apples-to-apples comparison.

Thanks to BigIronCruiser!!!
After 3 month searching for good off white diffusion material. Now we have an answer.
We found an off white material which will produce better skin tone that is closer to the ideal Kelvin.
All customers that purchased prior to 6-10-2013 will receive replacement front diffusion panel free of charge, which have been shipped on June 22.
We also have a new flip over diffusion sock which will provide quick setup and easy tear down for those that ordered prior to 6-10-2013.
For purchase after 6-11-2013, this item is included with your purchase.

Also we improve the sewing on the Velcro to the fabric. When you pull the diffusion panel off the softbox, do not pull the fabric, instead pull from the velcro which will prevent the velcro from being separated. That applies to all the softboxes.

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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives
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