LEE "Square" Circular Polarising Filter

I second this... I got the LEE wallet but there are others out there, better ones... according to some of the reviews I read/viewed...


http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=-rPzpO5f33w

DTBaan wrote in post #16130384
I cant confirm for all. but the nd's I got all came with the pouch. if you have 3+ filters I would suggest looking into filter wallets.

I've been playing with my Lee system for a few weeks now and stumbled upon this while looking for information about CPs. I have an 82mm CP that I love but it doesn't work with the Lee system, so I just ordered the Lee 4x4. Can't wait to try it. Also got myself on a waiting list for the Big Stopper. I can't imagine using it all that often, but it's so perfect for beach photography that I couldn't resist for vacations. Thanks for all the great info in this thread! And of course for the gorgeous images as well. I am always so impressed with my "with filters" vs "without filters" images. They really do make a huge difference.

jdizzle wrote in post #10303293
Hi Rob. I do own this filter and Argyle's explanation for use of this filter is spot on. I love the filter and it's given me great results for my images. Let me know if you need any help.

Here's a pic of the filter.

Here's a shot using that filter in combination with a 3 stop reverse GND.

Nice CounterTop !!!! Silestone Amarillo Gold I believe.

Shot with the 4x4

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/27683739@N06/6​094084503/

Has anyone tried to use a lens mount UV filter in addition to a Lee or Cokin filter system?

Wanting to cut down some of the UV without sacrificing the LEE filter.

BufordFZ1 wrote in post #16167473
Has anyone tried to use a lens mount UV filter in addition to a Lee or Cokin filter system?

Wanting to cut down some of the UV without sacrificing the LEE filter.

I assume you are referring to a screw-on UV filter?

IMO UV filter serves no purpose other than possibly to "protect" the front element of the lens. All you are doing is sticking another layer of glass there which can degrade image quality.

I honestly do not know anyone who uses one anymore unless they are going out where there is a 100% chance of debris hitting the front of the lens (mud, sand, saltwater spray, etc).

What exactly do you think "UV" is doing to your images? I have honestly never seen anyone explain why they need one other than to "cut down UV". That is not being sarcastic either, I am seriously asking haha.

If you really wanted one, as long as the UV filter had the same threads as the lens, I dont see why you wouldnt be able to use one. A slim filter would most likely not work though.

On hazy, hot summer days I've seen a slight reduction in the hazy funk, smog, etc. that is in the air.

I don't use it unless it's a bright day with visible Haze. Early morning at the beach with 90% humidity and the sun is picking it up along the horizon.

I just wondered if anyone has used both at the same time. Sometimes I've used a CPL and 3 stop filter for a little added color or the sky.

F-117HWK wrote in post #16167507
IMO UV filter serves no purpose other than possibly to "protect" the front element of the lens. All you are doing is sticking another layer of glass there which can degrade image quality.

Agree with this.

I may be wrong but I thought UV filters were from back in film days as UV light could damage the film during the exposure. With digital sensors this is not an issue and the UV filter only protects the front of the lens. This is why the filters are now mainly branded as "Digital filter" or "Clear digital filter" as they are only for lens protection.

Like I said though I could be completely wrong.

BufordFZ1 wrote in post #16168185
On hazy, hot summer days I've seen a slight reduction in the hazy funk, smog, etc. that is in the air.

I find that this reduction in haze is from using a CPL

airfang wrote in post #12487340
hi jdizzle, I looked through the posts and thanks for the explanations.

I noticed that the LEE square CPL is of 4x4 so I don't actually have to rotate the filter holder to achieve maximum reflection cut, I only need to turn the CPL sideways and insert it again, correct?

That being said, if I do not want to rotate the filter holder (so I can stack GNDs), then the real difference between a round CPL and this square CPL is the fact that the round one can vary the reflection anywhere between none and maximum while the square one can either achieve none or maximum, is this correct?

If so, I would be very intrigued to get the square CPL

I never quite realized this concept, but the above understand helped me to buy the 4x4 Lee over doing it the 105mm way.

Does it matter which filter is closest to the lens? GNDs first or CPL first?

Thanks for a great discussion!

UV filters do absolutely nothing on modern, digital cameras; the sensors themselves have UV filters built into them. Adding extra glass does nothing for that.

Yes, the most reduction for those things is going to come from a good CPL, not a UV filter.

Jamooche wrote in post #16642496
I never quite realized this concept, but the above understand helped me to buy the 4x4 Lee over doing it the 105mm way.

Does it matter which filter is closest to the lens? GNDs first or CPL first?

Thanks for a great discussion!

I always keep the CPL closest and then the GND but I dont think it actually matters. The only one where it does matter is the big stopper as it needs to be in the first slot closest to the lens.

xpfloyd wrote in post #16646384
I always keep the CPL closest and then the GND but I dont think it actually matters. The only one where it does matter is the big stopper as it needs to be in the first slot closest to the lens.

Excellent. Thanks very much!

yeah, this:

xpfloyd wrote in post #16646384
I always keep the CPL closest and then the GND but I dont think it actually matters. The only one where it does matter is the big stopper as it needs to be in the first slot closest to the lens.

also, scroll up and see my filter holder solution so the CP doesn't slide all the way through and fall out. I broke my first one...

So I have 2 screws in the bottom of my holder so that the colosest slot can't but used for a GND. This works for both my CP and 10-stopper. Then I have 2 slots further out for GNDs so I can have a CP and stack 2 GNDs if needed, or a 10 stop and a CP (which I then have to be careful with) and a GND...

I wound up putting a small bit of electrical tape on the edges of both the CPL and the Big Stopper; which added just enough thickness to them to keep them good and snug. My Big Stopper slid out and chipped a couple of corners, which is what prompted that move.

jacobsen1 wrote in post #16657687
yeah, this:


also, scroll up and see my filter holder solution so the CP doesn't slide all the way through and fall out. I broke my first one...

So I have 2 screws in the bottom of my holder so that the colosest slot can't but used for a GND. This works for both my CP and 10-stopper. Then I have 2 slots further out for GNDs so I can have a CP and stack 2 GNDs if needed, or a 10 stop and a CP (which I then have to be careful with) and a GND...

Thanks for the info Ben. Mine seems to fit fairly snug, but I'd hate for it to fall out. I will be doing this mod.

And thanks for your Clik Elite review. I just upgraded from the Adorama Slinger. I've got the glass filters in the middle and hoping they don't break. The big stopper comes with a metal case now, but it's a bit too bulky for me.