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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre General Photography Talk 
Thread started 27 Jul 2013 (Saturday) 14:14
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background to bright

 
amaturephotographer
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Jul 27, 2013 14:14 |  #1

i am having problems that the background is like a white out. is there a setting or something i can do and still have the right lighting for the subject. i am shooting with a 60d with a 70-200 2.8 canon lens. i will be using this lens for tonites football game but want to get this problem fixed. thanks




  
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dpds68
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Jul 27, 2013 14:24 |  #2

Can you post a picture with data attached showing the problem you are describing ?

David


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DistantFX
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Jul 27, 2013 14:31 |  #3

Yes, can you post a picture? I'm not sure how sports photography works, but those field lights can be quite strong. What is your shutter speed? What aperture are you shooting at?


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amaturephotographer
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Jul 27, 2013 14:34 |  #4

this isnt a sports photo its a wildlife photo but will post one.




  
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DistantFX
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Jul 27, 2013 14:39 |  #5

amaturephotographer wrote in post #16158636 (external link)
this isnt a sports photo its a wildlife photo but will post one.

Sorry I read it wrong. Assumed since you said you were using it for a game tonight, that you wanted it fixed for that particular reason.


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amaturephotographer
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Jul 27, 2013 14:44 |  #6

ok it is a football photo. thought i had some when i went to a wildlife safari. but see how the background is a white out the sky was blue with clouds that day. thanks


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amaturephotographer
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Jul 27, 2013 14:46 |  #7

that was with my 50d and 55-250 IS lens




  
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dpds68
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Jul 27, 2013 14:56 |  #8

No EXIF data shown , but it looks like you metered on the players ( And they look a tad underexposed ) and the sky got blown out , you only have a certain range of DR and may of hit the limit but still need the shots data to see what settings you used for that shot .



David


Gripped Canon 7D,20D,XT / Tamron 17-50mm 2.8, Canon 85mm f1.8 , 70-200 2.8L,EF50mm1.8 II,Sigma 150-500mm OS, Sigma 105mm 2.8 Macro, Sigma 10-20mm 4-5.6
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amaturephotographer
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Jul 27, 2013 15:12 |  #9

how do i do that?




  
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mystik610
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Jul 27, 2013 15:30 |  #10

In that type of lighting, you'll inevitably blow out the sky, or underexpose the players. Best bet is to frame your shots more tightly to keep the sky out of the frame.


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DC ­ Fan
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Jul 27, 2013 16:19 |  #11

amaturephotographer wrote in post #16158653 (external link)
ok it is a football photo. thought i had some when i went to a wildlife safari. but see how the background is a white out the sky was blue with clouds that day. thanks

Nothing's wrong with the camera or the lens. The trouble comes from the way the image was framed. The framing is far, far too loose. Sports action, especially gridiron football, needs to be framed tightly on the play.

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The reason the background was blown out on the submitted image was that most of the image was of the sky, rather than the players. The reason sports action uses long lenses is so the pictures concentrate tightly on the action. If an image is misframed, no camera or lens can perform miracles. This situation can be solved only by attention to technique and experience.



  
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OhLook
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Jul 27, 2013 16:34 |  #12

amaturephotographer wrote in post #16158709 (external link)
how do i do that?

Information about settings is in your camera, if that shot is still on the memory card, and in the computer where the image is stored. Where to find it will vary with the editing program. In the computer, put the image on the screen and look for something to click on like "Advanced View" or "Show Shooting Information." Those are labels in ImageBrowser. Most people use other editing programs.


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stsva
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Jul 27, 2013 17:10 |  #13

Take a look here to better understand what's going on:
http://www.25daysoff.c​om …l-for-travel-photography/ (external link)


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tonylong
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Jul 30, 2013 19:52 |  #14

I'll chime in (a few days late):

The most obvious problem is that your players were mostly "in shadow" meaning that the camera had to up the exposure level for the players in order to get them "properly exposed". The problem is that in that type of conditions that will as you've seen lead to a bright sky being overexposed.

The best "standard" approach to this is to position yourself to where as much light as possible is falling on the players and reflecting back to your camera.

For some scenes, flash can be very valuable, such as a good Canon SpeedLite.

Using one of these two approaches will enable you to lower your overall exposure, so that the sky will come through better.

And then, you do your best in post-processing. Good software will have tools that will brighten the shadows and also lower the highlights (the bright sky). You can find the best settings for a particular scene and "batch process" your shots of that scene.

But there is one additional bit of "advice" here:

If your shoot is important to you so that you want to get the "most" of your shots, then I'd suggest you shoot in the Raw format. This is because the Raw files have more data that covers a wider dynamic range, meaning that those bright skies have more detail to recover as do the shadows. Raw processors can do a lot with that data, not just "toning down" those bright skies but also enhancing the colors of what should be a nice blue sky. I've done a lot of outdoor shooting where at first glance the skies seem "impossible" but a quick run through my Raw processing software (Lightroom, or it could be Adobe Camera Raw or another capable app) has made a big difference.

That being said, there are some scenarios where sure, let it slide, it's the action that matters. But if the image matters as a whole, then, well, consider the bits of advice!


Tony
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tzalman
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Jul 31, 2013 09:10 |  #15

Shooting in Raw and using a good Raw converter like Lightroom, Photoshop/ACR, Aperture or Capture One will do three things for you (among many other advantages):
1. You will have access to the full tonal (dynamic) range that the camera can capture, instead of the reduced range that has been compressed into an 8 bit jpg. This means you can give more exposure to the shadows without blowing out the sky.
2. If the exposure makes the sky close to the maximum brightness but still not actually blown out, it can be pulled down to an attractive blue.
3. If the shadows are still too dark, they can be lightened with far less chance of noise and posterization because the Raw is in a high (14) bit depth.


Elie / אלי

  
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