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Thread started 29 Jul 2013 (Monday) 12:59
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1st Time Shooting NFL

 
Doc4659
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Jul 29, 2013 12:59 |  #1

I have the opportunity to shoot a couple of NFL preseason games. If all goes well I get the whole season.
I'm all set to hit the field short of 1 item.
Does everyone attach directly to the lens collar or do you use a head?
I have a Feisol Monopod, what is everyone's thoughts on a head?
I'll be shooting the 1DX with the 400 F2.8 IS II

Thanks in advance for everyone's input.


1D MK IV | 5D Mark III | 16-35mm f/2.8L II | 24-70 f2.8L | 24-105mm f/4L IS | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS | | 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS | 600EX-RT x 2 | ST-E3-RT| Gitzo 3542XLS

  
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dwarrenr
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Jul 29, 2013 14:34 |  #2

Personally I don't use a head (Mark IV and the 400mm 2.8). I get along just fine with out one, but it would be nice to have a Gimbal head. Here are two popular options:

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …93_Heavy_Duty_G​imbal.html (external link)

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …bal_Type_Tripod​_Head.html (external link)


D. Warren Robison
"All guys feel the need to compensate. Most compensate with sports cars. I compensate with a 400mm 2.8"
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John ­ Godwin
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Jul 29, 2013 14:50 |  #3

Attach monopod to lens foot. For the rare times that you would need to elevate or depress more than you can get by simply leaning forward or backwards you can pick the whole thing up for a quick shot. If you have the ball head loose enough to easily change elevations then it will do so on its own accord and the chances of catching your finger in a pinch point can become a serious problem. With a 400 and a 1DX that would be heavy enough to break a finger!!!

In my opinion if the camera is mounted so that it is easily moved then a ball head should not be used on a super tele only a gimbal mount and then only on tripods or other similar stable mounts where you can let go and the camera system will remain where left. Remember gravity works sometimes for you, sometimes against you but it always works.


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whuband
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Jul 30, 2013 12:22 |  #4

"Attach monopod to lens foot. For the rare times that you would need to elevate or depress more than you can get by simply leaning forward or backwards you can pick the whole thing up for a quick shot."

I think this is good advice. Things happen very quickly in NFL football as compared with HS or even D1. Another body with a 70-200 will also be very useful.


1D4, 6D, 7D2, Sony a6000 with Sony16-70, Rokinon 12mmf2, Canon lenses: 17-40L, 17-55 f2.8, 10-22, 50mm 1.4, 85mm 1.8, 70-200mm IS 2.8, 300mm 2.8 IS, 580EXII (3), 430EX, Alien Bees.

  
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bobbyz
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Jul 31, 2013 22:37 |  #5

No heads but I prefer arca swiss plates on the lens foot and clamp on the monopod.


Fuji XT-1, 18-55mm
Sony A7rIV, , Tamron 28-200mm, Sigma 40mm f1.4 Art FE, Sony 85mm f1.8 FE, Sigma 105mm f1.4 Art FE
Fuji GFX50s, 23mm f4, 32-64mm, 45mm f2.8, 110mm f2, 120mm f4 macro
Canon 24mm TSE-II, 85mm f1.2 L II, 90mm TSE-II Macro, 300mm f2.8 IS I

  
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Doc4659
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Aug 01, 2013 10:19 |  #6

I was going to take a second body with the 70-200 f2.8 IS. the problem is I have a 5D Mk II body, I don't think it'll focus fast enough. Considering picking up a 1D Mk III as a second body, any thoughts?


1D MK IV | 5D Mark III | 16-35mm f/2.8L II | 24-70 f2.8L | 24-105mm f/4L IS | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS | | 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS | 600EX-RT x 2 | ST-E3-RT| Gitzo 3542XLS

  
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bobbyz
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Aug 01, 2013 11:06 |  #7

Good choice.


Fuji XT-1, 18-55mm
Sony A7rIV, , Tamron 28-200mm, Sigma 40mm f1.4 Art FE, Sony 85mm f1.8 FE, Sigma 105mm f1.4 Art FE
Fuji GFX50s, 23mm f4, 32-64mm, 45mm f2.8, 110mm f2, 120mm f4 macro
Canon 24mm TSE-II, 85mm f1.2 L II, 90mm TSE-II Macro, 300mm f2.8 IS I

  
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Doc4659
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Aug 04, 2013 06:41 |  #8

Sold my 5D MK II, looking at buying a 1D MK IV or 5D MK III.
Leaning towards the 1D MK IV - Thoughts?


1D MK IV | 5D Mark III | 16-35mm f/2.8L II | 24-70 f2.8L | 24-105mm f/4L IS | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS | | 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS | 600EX-RT x 2 | ST-E3-RT| Gitzo 3542XLS

  
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Zivnuska
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Aug 04, 2013 08:31 |  #9

John Godwin wrote in post #16164105 (external link)
Attach monopod to lens foot. For the rare times that you would need to elevate or depress more than you can get by simply leaning forward or backwards you can pick the whole thing up for a quick shot. If you have the ball head loose enough to easily change elevations then it will do so on its own accord and the chances of catching your finger in a pinch point can become a serious problem. With a 400 and a 1DX that would be heavy enough to break a finger!!!

In my opinion if the camera is mounted so that it is easily moved then a ball head should not be used on a super tele only a gimbal mount and then only on tripods or other similar stable mounts where you can let go and the camera system will remain where left. Remember gravity works sometimes for you, sometimes against you but it always works.

Yep.


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ormathisen
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Aug 05, 2013 03:42 |  #10

Doc4659 wrote in post #16179702 (external link)
Sold my 5D MK II, looking at buying a 1D MK IV or 5D MK III.
Leaning towards the 1D MK IV - Thoughts?

I decided for the mkIV recently. The mk3 is definately not a bad camera but I like the mkIV better. Mainly for the fps, the feel/size paired with bigger lenses and the better buffer when shooting RAW+JPG to separate cards. The mk3 is better on high-ISO but on all other areas I easily went for the mkIV and I don't regret.

Why 10fps is more important for me than 6fps? For cycling finishes and soccer (as an example) a calculated speed of 60 km/h (37.28mph) will mean that the subject, either the cyclist or the ball, will move 16,66 meters per second. On a 5d mk3 that means I get a photo every 2,77 meters if the AF works at its optimum. On a 1D mkIV I get the same photos every 1,66 meters giving me a bigger chance to get "that" photo. The difference can be getting a photo of the ball and the goalie in the same frame vs just a goalie.


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dwarrenr
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Aug 05, 2013 06:15 |  #11

Doc4659 wrote in post #16179702 (external link)
Sold my 5D MK II, looking at buying a 1D MK IV or 5D MK III.
Leaning towards the 1D MK IV - Thoughts?

For sports the 1DMkIV is the answer. Also keep in mind if you ever decide to use strobes with sports, the max sync speed of the 5DIII is 1/125 vs. 1/250. But then again the 5DIII will produce higher quality images at high ISO...

I do own both...for action I'll use the 1DIV and a 1DIII. For wide angle 'candids' I'll be using the 5DIII.

If I had to choose to only bring one when shooting sports...it would be the 1DIV.

Hope that helps.


D. Warren Robison
"All guys feel the need to compensate. Most compensate with sports cars. I compensate with a 400mm 2.8"
Flickr (external link) - Home Page (external link) - MaxPreps Gallery - (external link)Razzi (external link)
Equipment List

  
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ormathisen
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Aug 05, 2013 08:56 |  #12

dwarrenr wrote in post #16182287 (external link)
the max sync speed of the 5DIII is 1/125 vs. 1/250.

I sync my mkIV on 1/320sec without the black strip.


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dwarrenr
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Aug 05, 2013 09:20 |  #13

ormathisen wrote in post #16182534 (external link)
I sync my mkIV on 1/320sec without the black strip.

Agreed...as do I with the MkIII and MkIV...but specs say 1/250 and several members herein have stated they get banding at 1/320. Thus I don't throw that info out there. :D


D. Warren Robison
"All guys feel the need to compensate. Most compensate with sports cars. I compensate with a 400mm 2.8"
Flickr (external link) - Home Page (external link) - MaxPreps Gallery - (external link)Razzi (external link)
Equipment List

  
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jlsohio
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Aug 22, 2013 20:03 |  #14

Just curious, how did you get the opportunity to get field pass? Good luck.




  
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