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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 03 Aug 2013 (Saturday) 22:07
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ND Gels or other solutions to solve problem 580EXii?

 
KirkS518
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Aug 03, 2013 22:07 |  #1

I bought a 580EXii knowing that it will only shoot at 1/1 (full power).

Are there some ways I can overcome this? I was thinking ND gels may be the best (cheapest) way, although changing them during shooting may become a PITA. Thought maybe you gurus could give me ideas.

Also, anyone know what may be causing it, or a way to fix it without sending it in? I'm have no fear of tinkering, and I'm aware of the possibility of discharge during disassembly if I go that route. Could it be something as simple as a bad/incomplete hotshoe connection? I can manually set the flash to fire at any fraction, but it actually fires at full power, no matter what setting I use. Everything else is working fine on it.


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virsago_mk2
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Aug 03, 2013 22:09 |  #2

Get it repaired?


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The ­ Loft ­ Studios
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Aug 04, 2013 00:03 as a reply to  @ virsago_mk2's post |  #3

^^ This ^^


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KirkS518
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Aug 04, 2013 00:32 |  #4

KirkS518 wrote in post #16179157 (external link)
...without sending it in?

This... :rolleyes:


If steroids are illegal for athletes, should PS be illegal for models?
Digital - 50D, 20D IR Conv, 9 Lenses from 8mm to 300mm
Analog - Mamiya RB67 Pro-SD, Canon A-1, Nikon F4S, YashicaMat 124G, Rollei 35S, QL17 GIII, Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex 1st Version, and and entire room full of lenses and other stuff

  
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BTNorris
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Aug 04, 2013 00:53 as a reply to  @ KirkS518's post |  #5

You could cut a hole the size of the flash head in a piece of cardboard then construct a sliding "door" that you could close to block a certain percentage of light. i.e. 50% closed = 50% power, etc.

But really, life is kinda short for all that, isn't it?


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Luckless
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Aug 04, 2013 17:12 |  #6

Fixing it yourself is maybe possible, but it depends on what is actually broken, and your level of skill with sensitive electronics.

First off you need to narrow down why it is only firing at 1/1, and then you can start figuring out if you can fix it cheaper than sending it in.


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KirkS518
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Aug 04, 2013 18:09 |  #7

Luckless wrote in post #16180995 (external link)
Fixing it yourself is maybe possible, but it depends on what is actually broken, and your level of skill with sensitive electronics.

First off you need to narrow down why it is only firing at 1/1, and then you can start figuring out if you can fix it cheaper than sending it in.

That's what I'm hoping to do. I love to tinker, and tinkering is always in the wife's budget. :)

I don't think it's a foot issue, as it fire 1/1 off the shoe. I'm sort of thinking it could be the circuit board, which I doubt I'd want to get into, as then it would be easier to just have it fixed.

Any ideas of how to figure out what could be causing it?


If steroids are illegal for athletes, should PS be illegal for models?
Digital - 50D, 20D IR Conv, 9 Lenses from 8mm to 300mm
Analog - Mamiya RB67 Pro-SD, Canon A-1, Nikon F4S, YashicaMat 124G, Rollei 35S, QL17 GIII, Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex 1st Version, and and entire room full of lenses and other stuff

  
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Heath
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Aug 04, 2013 18:21 |  #8

I have no idea how to fix it yourself, but my understanding is that if the flash only shoots at full power that it is an IGBT issue.

http://lpadesign.com/5​80EXII.pdf (external link)

For what it costs to fix, I would just buy another one used. Or buy a Yongunou flash for $60. How much did you pay for a broken flash? $20?

If you insist on using a broken flash, and are willing to give up the quality of light, just use distance to adjust the light output. Too bright, move further away, not bright enough, get closer.


Heath
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Whortleberry
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Aug 04, 2013 19:25 |  #9

First reaction to this is to think "Bad Contacts". These would be to do with the flash hot-foot. For the sake of removing 4 little screws, you could make a start by taking off the hot-foot and checking that each wire is still intact. It could be something as simple and silly as a wire coming adrift inside that foot. Broadly speaking, unless all circuits and sub-circuits are in prime condition, flash units will tend to revert to 1/1 firing. They may also revert to 50mm zoom setting on half-shutter.

From there on in, it starts to get a bit more awkward to analyse. Could be any one of a number of things. It could be any two of a number of things. It could be any three of a number of things. Etc., etc., ad nauseam. It's uneconomic to check each and every component so the norm (at repair centres) is to just replace everything whether it needs replacement or not.

I think the only other thing I would do, bearing in mind that it's an old flash anyway, would be to open up the head. If memory serves correctly, there's a mini-pcb in the head with a capacitor onboard. Visually check this cap to see that it's intact, no browning, no popped end-caps, etc. After these checks, bearing in mind the cost of repair, I'd dump it in the trash and by a new replacement. As my Metz units reach life-expired status through old age, I am replacing them progressively with new Yongnuos - it's cheaper to buy a new Chinese one than to have an old German one repaired. The same doubtless pertains with Canon flashes. I certainly wouldn't go poking around the main body of the flash as without test instruments there's no way of knowing what's OK and what's suspect.

Usual warnings about capacitors apply, but you know that already.


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KirkS518
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Aug 04, 2013 20:03 |  #10

Heath wrote in post #16181134 (external link)
I have no idea how to fix it yourself, but my understanding is that if the flash only shoots at full power that it is an IGBT issue.

http://lpadesign.com/5​80EXII.pdf (external link)

That was a great pdf, thanks! Sounds like that's the problem, so it's already on craigslist. :)

Whortleberry wrote in post #16181251 (external link)
First reaction to this is to think "Bad Contacts". These would be to do with the flash hot-foot.

That was my initial thought as well, but since it doesn't matter if it's in a shoe or not, it still happens, so I would think that rules out that.

Thanks everyone.

Now I'm back to figuring out what flash to get - 430EXii, or one of the YN's with HSS. :confused:


If steroids are illegal for athletes, should PS be illegal for models?
Digital - 50D, 20D IR Conv, 9 Lenses from 8mm to 300mm
Analog - Mamiya RB67 Pro-SD, Canon A-1, Nikon F4S, YashicaMat 124G, Rollei 35S, QL17 GIII, Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex 1st Version, and and entire room full of lenses and other stuff

  
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Heath
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Aug 04, 2013 20:07 |  #11

Lumipro LP180 has been getting some really good reviews.


Heath
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mike_d
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Aug 04, 2013 20:12 |  #12

Pull down the wide angle panel and stick it in an umbrella or softbox. That should eat up enough power that you can use your aperture and ISO to adjust.

If you're trying to do this on-camera, forcing it into high speed sync will also eat more power the faster you push the shutter. So will a Stofen cup.




  
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KirkS518
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Aug 05, 2013 19:57 |  #13

It's sold. Anyone have a nice 430EX II they want to sell? ;)


If steroids are illegal for athletes, should PS be illegal for models?
Digital - 50D, 20D IR Conv, 9 Lenses from 8mm to 300mm
Analog - Mamiya RB67 Pro-SD, Canon A-1, Nikon F4S, YashicaMat 124G, Rollei 35S, QL17 GIII, Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex 1st Version, and and entire room full of lenses and other stuff

  
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ND Gels or other solutions to solve problem 580EXii?
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