A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

Whortleberry wrote in post #16177606
Business contact addresses, freely available on Godox's own website if you know where to look. Not secret in any way.

Just that lots of mail addresses that looks like "freely available" aren't - they are just presented in a way that makes them readable by a visitor but hard to read by a computer.

It really is a very good discipline to be careful with all presentation of email addresses in public web pages.

I'm very well aware of the issues surrounding email addresses. This is why I did nothing more than cut and paste the addresses already published. I'm sure that if Godox or anyone else want to take security measures, be they something as simple as substituting "commercial AT" for @ or something more refined, then they would have done so. Far be it from me to determine how other businesses control flow of their communications.

However, as you feel it is necessary for you to police other people's websites and contact details, I have changed the addresses to comply with your perceived needs. I shall leave it to you to notify Godox and the myriad other transgressors of the error of their ways.

pwm2 wrote in post #16177510
If you want to be nice with people, you should consider not post their mail addresses in full clear-text like that. Too much robots scanning web pages for mail addresses to spam.

haha, now you need to edit your quote.

Great news for all the HSS lovers here

The new Phottix Odin ODS pre-sync timing is getting great results with the Cheetah Lights.

I thought they would at least match the Cells II, but its more like 2/3rds of a stop ahead!, and 1 whole stop ahead of the YN-622C and King Pro.

That's like a whole second CL flash unit. Its only a tiny bit off matching an ND filter now (with the action stopping shutter speeds ND filters don't provide).


I'm using Canon and crop cameras, so I don't know yet how the full frame will compare.

But this is good news for Nikon users, as this is very likely the best HSS trigger option. Although at $330 a set not particularly cheap. They are excellent TTL triggers though too.
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elv wrote in post #16179333
Great news for all the HSS lovers here

The new Phottix Odin ODS pre-sync timing is getting great results with the Cheetah Lights.

I thought they would at least match the Cells II, but its more like 2/3rds of a stop ahead!, and 1 whole stop ahead of the YN-622C and King Pro.

That's like a whole second CL flash unit. Its only a tiny bit off matching an ND filter now (with the action stopping shutter speeds ND filters don't provide).


I'm using Canon and crop cameras, so I don't know yet how the full frame will compare.

But this is good news for Nikon users, as this is very likely the best HSS trigger option. Although at $330 a set not particularly cheap. They are excellent TTL triggers though too.
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Good to read that Phottix have great results with the flashes and I can reach also excellent results with the PocketWizards. It is not easy and I have put the settings of the PW's to extremes settings for my 5D MKIII and switch back to standard channels on my TT1/TT5.

1/8000 second is not really stops the action because the total duration of the travel of the curtain is the same as at x-sync. Yes the flash pulses are very short but only stopping that bit of action that is exposes by that flash pulse. By the next pulse the object can have moved.

I got a picture were you can see every pulse of light emitted by my AD360/CL360 when it is in HSS mode. The pulses are not regular spread over the frame as can be seen.

To really stop action (freeze) you needs a very powerful and short light pulse or a electronic shutter. The last will be the best solution to stop action in combination with a short pulse of light because there will be no spillage of generated light and you need not huge amounts of flash power.

http://www.flickr.com …mmmfotografie/9​239226403/

mmmfotografie wrote in post #16180705
Good to read that Phottix have great results with the flashes and I can reach also excellent results with the PocketWizards. It is not easy and I have put the settings of the PW's to extremes settings for my 5D MKIII and switch back to standard channels on my TT1/TT5.

1/8000 second is not really stops the action because the total duration of the travel of the curtain is the same as at x-sync. Yes the flash pulses are very short but only stopping that bit of action that is exposes by that flash pulse. By the next pulse the object can have moved.

I got a picture were you can see every pulse of light emitted by my AD360/CL360 when it is in HSS mode. The pulses are not regular spread over the frame as can be seen.

http://www.flickr.com …mmmfotografie/9​239226403/

Thanks, yes provided the PocketWizards can reach a the full range of timing the results should be similar. But the Odin are also extremely quick and simple to adjust in comparison. If anyone can compare the Cells II and PW result that would be great.

No offence but the argument the HSS does not stop action is very tiring. It stops action exactly the same as fast shutter speeds in the sun or any continuous light. Which is huge advantages over staying at 1/250th etc. Most sport and action is much sharper at 1/1000th+. Distortion is rarely an issue for this type of thing.

I'm not sure why you're getting the lines, Dave had some in his images with the full frame Nikon as well. So maybe the slower full frame shutter is causing that. It does look quite bad there, but is it really noticeable if the image is exposed correctly though? In these ones it looks like the 580EX has the same effect, but in real use its not really an issue - http://www.flickr.com …4/sizes/k/in/ph​otostream/
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Normally, HSS means the pulses should come so often that as the slit moves over the sensor, each part of the sensor sees multiple pulses before the slit have moved too far.

If HSS is using 50kHz pulse frequency, and the camera has 1/4000 shutter speed, and the actual travel speed of the shutter curtain is 1/250, then the slit width would be 250/4000 = 1/16 of the sensor and there would be 50000/250 = 200 pulses during the full travel of the slit. So the slit width should be big enough for about 12 pulses, i.e. each pulse (seen or not) should represent about 10% of the light seen by the individual sensor pixels. At 1/8000, there would be time for about 6 pulses hitting individual sensor pixels while the slit moves over the sensor.

I really can't understand why there are these narrow bands seen, unless there is some interference there meaning the sensor sees 11, 12, 11, 12, 11, 12, 11, 12 pulses.

I always seen high shutter speeds as method to keep out to much light if you need a low aperture for a picture. I made a setup with a cooling fan with a pen marking on it and then you see with HSS the marking ghosting as the edges of the blades do. Below x-sync and a very fast flash (1/10000/s) you see smearing of the marking so the fan is moving fast enough to even not be frozen at that high speed.

In normal life HSS will be sufficient to "freeze" objects in a picture as ELV wrote.

About seeing the lines of the separate pulses when in HSS mode I suspected first my ambient light source with is a TL-tube but switching it of did not change anything. It must be the travelling of the curtains that causes it as PWM2 wrote. The variance in the hight of the lines can be caused by the acceleration and slowing down of the curtain when opening or closing them. Then I also suspect that the AD360(CL360) is not pulsing at 50KHz but a lower value.

I will try also with my 1D MKII if I see the lines using the cropped sensor. The travelling speed of the curtains should be higher then on a full-frame camera.

With 1D MKII the lines are also clearly visible at 1/8 setting on my AD360. I am getting worried about it and is someone willing to test it at the lowest HSS setting of the flash?

Update: also on full power of the flash I get the lines. I can only trigger it with my PocketWizards and not with any other releases even a sync cable won't keep up.

Update: I checked the 580EX picture on lines and there are none present and what you see are the markings of two CD towers that have stood on that spot years ago.

Elv,

Have you experienced this 'banding' issue with the Cells II trigger in HSS.?
Any chance you could look at a couple of your shots at zoom 100% to see if this is happening.?.

thanks Mike..

This is seriously a lot to of pages to read, but I really just wanted to sort out reviews of people's experiences with the 360's, still i jumped the gun and ordered it =D, I feel this will perfectly replace one of my alienbees with a huge tronix explorer for quick on the go shoot's. All i'm worried about is reliability , but I still have a hundred+ pages to read and hopefully find out.

also I was curious has anyone tried a 48" octa light box with the 360?

http://www.amazon.com …ohs_product?ie=​UTF8&psc=1

My 2-to-1 cables have arrived, nothing much to say here, it takes one second to put it on, works exactly as advertised, recycle is twice faster (2 seconds to recharge CL360 at full power pop), very much worth it to me.

jay_jay_n wrote in post #16184024
All i'm worried about is reliability , but I still have a hundred+ pages to read and hopefully find out.

While it is too early to speak about long term reliability I find it very encouraging that we haven't heard a single report of reliability issues so far.

jay_jay_n wrote in post #16184076
also I was curious has anyone tried a 48" octa light box with the 360?

http://www.amazon.com …ohs_product?ie=​UTF8&psc=1

Not sure what you want to know.
I have several of the Fotodiox octas, ranging from about 36" up to the big one.
All are EZ-Pros. They fit onto the Pro Bracket with an Bowens adapter. The 360/180 head goes past the vertical bracket opening with a bit of giggling to get the tightening knob past. Once that's accomplished its possible to get the flash tube into optimum position.

I think the images showing how to position the tube are back about 1830 in this thread.

With the tube in proper position the modifier works great with the expected light output fall off.

dmward wrote in post #16184381
Not sure what you want to know.
I have several of the Fotodiox octas, ranging from about 36" up to the big one.
All are EZ-Pros. They fit onto the Pro Bracket with an Bowens adapter. The 360/180 head goes past the vertical bracket opening with a bit of giggling to get the tightening knob past. Once that's accomplished its possible to get the flash tube into optimum position.

I think the images showing how to position the tube are back about 1830 in this thread.

With the tube in proper position the modifier works great with the expected light output fall off.

David, I have the PCB folding octa softboxes for which I also use the Bowens adapter/speedring when attaching the CL360. How do the Fotodiox EX-Pros compare to the PCB ones (material, light quality, operation, durability, etc.)? Thanks.