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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 17 Sep 2012 (Monday) 13:11
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Vixen89
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Aug 07, 2013 10:28 |  #3331

mchong75 wrote in post #16186614 (external link)
Here's a quick video of the problem.

The video should be available in 15 minutes. It's still uploading.

http://www.youtube.com …TpLbkOCE&featur​e=youtu.be (external link)

I watched the video, it looks like the software itself for the dock is having problems or it's a faulty dock period!


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Aug 07, 2013 11:01 |  #3332

xpfloyd wrote in post #16188267 (external link)
Are you testing outside in bright light? Do you have a good contrasting target? and are you making sure the sensor is square to the target?

Is it usually best to do dot tune outside?


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Aug 07, 2013 11:54 |  #3333

itsmejson wrote in post #16188383 (external link)
Is it usually best to do dot tune outside?

Im no expert but I have found the most repeatable results when doing it outside in my back garden when the light is good.


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drzenitram
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Aug 07, 2013 13:10 |  #3334

itsmejson wrote in post #16188383 (external link)
Is it usually best to do dot tune outside?

Any kind of MFA adjustment testing should be done as close to your most "normal situational use" as possible.

Examples:
- a 35mm lens used most frequently for environmental portraits in natural light would usually be used 8-20ft away from the subject, so you would want to put your target around 12ft away in natural light to MFA
- a 200mm lens used outdoors for full body shots you'd probably put the target around 40-60ft away outside.
- a 135mm lens that you use indoor with strobes for headshots, you'd want to MFA 12-15ft away under strobe lighting.
- a 100mm macro lens used with strobe lighting, you might MFA at 1-3ft under strobe lighting.

Get what I'm sayin'?


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Sfordphoto
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Aug 07, 2013 19:03 |  #3335

kobeson wrote in post #15321402 (external link)
One thing the USB dock and S35 will never be able to equal the 35L with is the AF points on a 5D3 and newer bodies. The 35L is a group A lens and is incredibly accurate - S35 will only be a group C at best you would think. I think the price tag for the USB dock would be worth paying for if you intend on having at least 2 of their new lenses in your kit, but yeah it is going to cost more than a used 35L if you just have the S35.

But that technology is fascinating, will be great to be able to make your lens suit your needs perfectly as opposed to adjusting to the lens' strengths/weaknesses. If only it was around for their current S50 I wouldn't have had to exchange it 3 times and eventually swap for a different lens!

Excuse my ignorance, what are these group A and group C classifications?


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Aug 09, 2013 06:17 |  #3336

xpfloyd wrote in post #16188267 (external link)
Are you testing outside in bright light? Do you have a good contrasting target? and are you making sure the sensor is square to the target?

Does the sensor square to the target relate to the 'dot tune' method. I did my MA with the camera on a tripod at 45 degrees to the chart which was inside (mistake) on the kitchen table. Just got my replacement copy which I think is worse than my first. It is unusable in my eyes until at least f1.8-f2.2. Maybe I am just a perfectionist but I think if a lens offers 1.4 it should be useable at 1.4. Long distance shooting not a hope.....not sharp at all.

Will the dock fix the close up use at f1.4-f2 ? I use it mainly for portraits of the kids although used it last night for a landscape and must admit it was fantastic at f14 (no shock there).


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Aug 09, 2013 08:47 |  #3337

Jasonfire124 wrote in post #16193511 (external link)
Does the sensor square to the target relate to the 'dot tune' method. I did my MA with the camera on a tripod at 45 degrees to the chart which was inside (mistake) on the kitchen table. Just got my replacement copy which I think is worse than my first. It is unusable in my eyes until at least f1.8-f2.2. Maybe I am just a perfectionist but I think if a lens offers 1.4 it should be useable at 1.4. Long distance shooting not a hope.....not sharp at all.

Will the dock fix the close up use at f1.4-f2 ? I use it mainly for portraits of the kids although used it last night for a landscape and must admit it was fantastic at f14 (no shock there).

Square to the target is just based on Canons guidance for MA. I know there are third part MA setups that say 45 degrees to the target but I personally cant see how that would help. That's a recipe for driving you insane. At least when the camera is square to the target and your test shot is OOF you know you have an MA issue. If you are taking AF shots at a target that's at 45 degrees at f/1.4 all it takes is for the camera to focus slightly further up or down the 45 degree slope and your shot will look OOF due to the narrow DOF (depending on how close you are testing), you will then think its the MA when its actually the focus position.

I should point out that this is just what I think and don't have any technical knowledge to back it up, it just makes sense to me.

What I will say though is that your problems were exactly like mine and now my lens is perfect at every aperture and every focus distance. If I was you I would buy the dock and be done with it.


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Aug 09, 2013 08:48 |  #3338

Sfordphoto wrote in post #16189512 (external link)
Excuse my ignorance, what are these group A and group C classifications?

Beats me


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Aug 09, 2013 10:20 |  #3339

xpfloyd wrote in post #16193767 (external link)
Square to the target is just based on Canons guidance for MA. I know there are third part MA setups that say 45 degrees to the target but I personally cant see how that would help. That's a recipe for driving you insane. At least when the camera is square to the target and your test shot is OOF you know you have an MA issue. If you are taking AF shots at a target that's at 45 degrees at f/1.4 all it takes is for the camera to focus slightly further up or down the 45 degree slope and your shot will look OOF due to the narrow DOF (depending on how close you are testing), you will then think its the MA when its actually the focus position.

I should point out that this is just what I think and don't have any technical knowledge to back it up, it just makes sense to me.

What I will say though is that your problems were exactly like mine and now my lens is perfect at every aperture and every focus distance. If I was you I would buy the dock and be done with it.

Can you direct me to a website to give me full instructions on how to set up and carry out the 'square on' method you used along with any links to downloadable free charts.

Thanks


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Aug 09, 2013 16:01 |  #3340

Jasonfire124 wrote in post #16194007 (external link)
Can you direct me to a website to give me full instructions on how to set up and carry out the 'square on' method you used along with any links to downloadable free charts.

Thanks

I posted the full method some pages back, step by step guide, links to focus charts etc. Should be within the last 5 to 10 pages I reckon


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Aug 09, 2013 16:34 |  #3341

UPS just payed me a visit with my new S35. So far it seems pretty accurate. I'll put it through its paces this weekend.


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Aug 09, 2013 16:42 |  #3342

xpfloyd wrote in post #16194838 (external link)
I posted the full method some pages back, step by step guide, links to focus charts etc. Should be within the last 5 to 10 pages I reckon

Thanks xpfloyd, I did remember that just after I posted but didn't realise it included the links to focus charts etc. Nice one, your a big help


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Aug 10, 2013 03:37 |  #3343

No bother, hope you get it sorted


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Aug 10, 2013 03:48 |  #3344

xpfloyd wrote in post #16193767 (external link)
Square to the target is just based on Canons guidance for MA. I know there are third part MA setups that say 45 degrees to the target but I personally cant see how that would help. That's a recipe for driving you insane. At least when the camera is square to the target and your test shot is OOF you know you have an MA issue. If you are taking AF shots at a target that's at 45 degrees at f/1.4 all it takes is for the camera to focus slightly further up or down the 45 degree slope and your shot will look OOF due to the narrow DOF (depending on how close you are testing), you will then think its the MA when its actually the focus position.

I should point out that this is just what I think and don't have any technical knowledge to back it up, it just makes sense to me.

What I will say though is that your problems were exactly like mine and now my lens is perfect at every aperture and every focus distance. If I was you I would buy the dock and be done with it.

Yes, the focus target should be at a constant distance from the camera so the size of the AF point doesn't matter, i.e. the focus point can't accidentally lock on to something further away or closer away.

But it is nice to have a slanting subject somewhere outside that focus target, so you get a focus scale where you can see if the lens is front- or backfocusing.

With just a target that is at constant distance, you don't know if your adjustment has peaked at the optimum without testing adjustments in both directions. With a 45-degree focus scale to the side of the focus point, you can see if the sharpest region is at distance zero relative to the focus area or if you can see better focus further away.

Just note that before doing this, it is good to verify that the lens isn't decentered so one side of the image is sharper than the other side.


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Aug 10, 2013 04:03 |  #3345

Pwm2, that's exactly right with regards to a 45 degree focus scale beside the target to allow you to see if focus is out and in what direction (a lot of third party MA companies use this method) however I think.Jason was talking about the actual target being at 45 degrees (I.e target on floor smd camera pointing down at angle). This is also used by certain MA set ups and I personally don't think it helps. I may have picked Jason up wrong though


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