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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 12 Aug 2013 (Monday) 12:11
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Sun Flare and Canon 17-40 f4 L

 
GadgetRick
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Aug 12, 2013 12:11 |  #1

Been thinking of starting to use my 1d3 for my RE photogrpahy(been using my 50D with Tokina 11-16). Part of the reason I am thinking of this is because, while I love the Tokina, the sun flare (or light flare) can be extremely irritating. I also am looking to use the 1d body (which can't take the Tokina without modifications) so I need to get a wide angle lens for the 1d. I'd love to get the 16-25 but don't want to spend quite that much at the moment. Been looking at the 17-40 and like what I've seen/read.

Anyway, my main concern is flare with the 17-40. I don't expect it to be totally eliminated but have any of you experienced any major issues with flare using the 17-40?

Thanks.




  
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gonzogolf
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Aug 12, 2013 12:14 |  #2

The wider the lens the greater likelihood for flare, but that said, I havent noticed a particular problem with flare in the 17-40 that wouldnt be present with another lens in the same shooting conditions.




  
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Burnzz
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Aug 12, 2013 12:23 |  #3

the only thing i would add, is the hood doesn't seem to do too much. i do use a cpl most of the time.


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GadgetRick
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Aug 12, 2013 14:55 |  #4

Burnzz wrote in post #16201446 (external link)
the only thing i would add, is the hood doesn't seem to do too much. i do use a cpl most of the time.

I had read that about the included hood. I have read some people have gotten a better hood for it.




  
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gonzogolf
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Aug 12, 2013 15:07 |  #5

GadgetRick wrote in post #16201916 (external link)
I had read that about the included hood. I have read some people have gotten a better hood for it.

You cant really blame the hood. It has to be that wide to cover the field of view on a full frame camera which is ultrawide. That renders it less effective, but if you made it any less you would have vignetting. If you were to only use it on a crop body then an alternate hood would be of use.




  
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GadgetRick
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Aug 12, 2013 15:09 |  #6

gonzogolf wrote in post #16201938 (external link)
You cant really blame the hood. It has to be that wide to cover the field of view on a full frame camera which is ultrawide. That renders it less effective, but if you made it any less you would have vignetting. If you were to only use it on a crop body then an alternate hood would be of use.

Makes sense. Not using it on a full crop body--using it on my 1d3. I've seen images from that combo @17mm and I think I should be alright.




  
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gonzogolf
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Aug 12, 2013 15:12 |  #7

GadgetRick wrote in post #16201945 (external link)
Makes sense. Not using it on a full crop body--using it on my 1d3. I've seen images from that combo @17mm and I think I should be alright.

You might be able to use the hood from a 24-105 on the 17-40 then. I've heard of people trying that for a 1.6 crop.




  
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GadgetRick
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Aug 12, 2013 15:14 |  #8

gonzogolf wrote in post #16201952 (external link)
You might be able to use the hood from a 24-105 on the 17-40 then. I've heard of people trying that for a 1.6 crop.

Yeah, I'd read of people doing that. May give that a shot.

I appreciate everyone's help on this.




  
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gonzogolf
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Aug 12, 2013 15:29 |  #9

GadgetRick wrote in post #16201958 (external link)
Yeah, I'd read of people doing that. May give that a shot.

I appreciate everyone's help on this.

I'd buy a 3rd party hood to experiment with before dropping the cash on an OEM model.




  
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GadgetRick
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Aug 12, 2013 15:30 |  #10

gonzogolf wrote in post #16201996 (external link)
I'd buy a 3rd party hood to experiment with before dropping the cash on an OEM model.

Definitely. You can get cheap hoods on eBay (done it before). Honestly, they are just as good...at least the ones I've seen.




  
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JeffreyG
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Aug 12, 2013 15:57 |  #11

The 17-40 is good for flare. I've taken shots with it with the sun in the frame (where the hood doesn't even matter) and gotten no veiling flare. That's very challenging and I bet your Tokina would pretty much wash out.

The 17-40 can and will make some small ghosts if the light source is directly in the frame, but that probably is true of nearly all lenses.


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Sirrith
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Aug 12, 2013 22:19 |  #12

It is quite good with flare. It can flare a lot when the sun is in a particular position near the edge of the frame though.


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Invertalon
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Aug 12, 2013 22:29 |  #13

I never had any issue with my 17-40 and flare, even with bright stage lights shining into the lens. This is with a filter on as well. Some examples:

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7408/9282211776_1f97f0ca47_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/invertalon/9282​211776/  (external link)
IMG_9868.jpg (external link) by invertalon (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3773/9282109754_f96359cb3c_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/invertalon/9282​109754/  (external link)
IMG_0670.jpg (external link) by invertalon (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2851/9282445516_a358ee0260_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/invertalon/9282​445516/  (external link)
SAF_2680.jpg (external link) by invertalon (external link), on Flickr

-Steve
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GadgetRick
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Aug 12, 2013 22:32 as a reply to  @ Invertalon's post |  #14

Great to know. Now to go get one. :)




  
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tat3406
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Aug 13, 2013 19:48 |  #15

I also have flare problem with 17-40, I try to take off the protection filter, problem solve. Are you also put on any filter? And the hood is very important.


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Sun Flare and Canon 17-40 f4 L
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