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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
dmward
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Aug 21, 2013 08:21 |  #2281

DamianOz wrote in post #16226890 (external link)
What I would like to do
600EX or ST-E3 on camera, Cells IIc on a bracket or similar. using 5D3.
I think a hot shoe from PC port should trigger the Cells IIc but will I be able to use H sync mode?

How would I best set this up?

The Cells IIc has to have the hot shoe connections to get the FP-sync signal.
I've done some testing with YN-622 as the on camera trigger with 600EX-RT on top and then the Cells IIc on a YN-622 receiver.
Doing it this way eliminates the 600EX-RT/5DIII benefits since the YN-622 is the master.

For x xync with pass through to the 600EX-RT use the Strato II multi from Phottix.
The 600EX-RT or STE3 on the transmitter on camera will work as normal, even when the transmitter is turned off.
However, even if the shutter speed is raised above x-sync it fires at x-sync when there is a Cells-IIc in the receiver.

So far, the only options for FP-sync with both speedlites and Cells-IIc has been an ETTL triggering system such as YongNou, Phottix, Pixel, or Pocket Wizard.
They all are 580EX-II based ETTL technology so the 600EX-RT becomes a 580EXII with a built in radio.


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
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DamianOz
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Aug 21, 2013 09:16 |  #2282

Can the 5D3 hot shoe be split, using a sync cable like this
http://www.ebay.com.au …ash=item2a2d293​b03&_uhb=1 (external link)?


Bodies - Canon EOS 5DIII | EOS 6D
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dmward
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Aug 21, 2013 15:30 |  #2283

DamianOz wrote in post #16227196 (external link)
Can the 5D3 hot shoe be split, using a sync cable like this
http://www.ebay.com.au …ash=item2a2d293​b03&_uhb=1 (external link)?

In theory it should work.
However, someone posted that they understand that Canon, ala 2012 cameras and flash, send some communications to the speedlite via the ETTL pins. If that's the case having two different ETTL devices wired to the camera could cause unanticipated outcomes.

For the price, its probably worth a try.


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
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Trailboy
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Aug 21, 2013 16:23 |  #2284

I have that YN cable, it was more designed for running a ttl gun at the end of the lead and a trigger on top of camera, like the 602.

It was invaluable for my 60d canons that did not have an pc sync cord.




  
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silvrbullet
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Aug 21, 2013 16:34 |  #2285

JESUS PADILLA wrote in post #16226637 (external link)
LOVE MY CHEETAH LIGHTS EVEN TOUGH I DONT UNDERSTAND A LOT OF TERMS YOU

Nice examples! What modifiers are you using?


Sony A7RII | Zeiss Batis 2.8/18 | Fuji X-T1 | 23 F/1.4

  
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ZoranC
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Aug 21, 2013 22:27 |  #2286

JESUS PADILLA wrote in post #16226637 (external link)
LOVE MY CHEETAH LIGHTS EVEN TOUGH I DONT UNDERSTAND A LOT OF TERMS YOU MENTIONED

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net …66856232_164939​6572_o.jpg (external link)

Great work!




  
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BigIronCruiser
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Aug 22, 2013 00:09 |  #2287

JESUS PADILLA wrote in post #16226639 (external link)
3 CL-360 USED

1365
x
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TOO LARGE!
EMBED PREVENTED, IMAGE TOO LARGE:
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Click here to see our image rules.

All I can say, Jesus, is that you knocked it out of the park with these. They're stunning, and the one with the B&G next to the water is among the best I've ever seen. Your clients must be over the moon!




  
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janmi
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Aug 23, 2013 01:03 |  #2288

I just ordered the 360 version from the Netherlands, as it seems to be one of the only countries here in Europe where you can get the system from at the moment.

But the FT-16 wireless trigger is really hard to find. Any ideas where to get it fast from? The USA shops don't ship to Europe and the Chinese shops seem to have slow shipping speeds (10-20 days by mail).

But all in all, I'm really exited to get some strobist work get done with this cool product. :)




  
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Whortleberry
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Aug 23, 2013 01:40 |  #2289

http://www.lencarta.co​m …able-flash?product_id=261 (external link)


Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
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DamianOz
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Aug 23, 2013 01:53 |  #2290

Received my AD-360, waiting on Cells, and other hardware from Cheetah to arrive.
I would have liked the Cheetah flash, something about Mr Tangs logo/branding that appeals to me. But I went for a kit with AU plug pack plus shipping savings.

Anyway, I'm like a boy with a new toy, and looking forward to getting the Cells IIc, soft boxes, stands etc.... to see what this lighting can help me create

I only bought one, to see what its like and mainly for complimenting outdoor ambient at high speeds.

Now what to get for multi light indoor portraiture. 2 more 360s, a 360 and 180, a couple strobes (Godox 600 or 400) or may be a couple Einsteins.

Anyway, I'm exited to join the club.


Bodies - Canon EOS 5DIII | EOS 6D
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Chad ­ D
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Aug 23, 2013 02:23 |  #2291

did the same thing bought one love it
my season wont start for a while so getting used to new gear
just bought my second one this week :)

thought about the godox 600 quadra copy or something else and have the two 360 along with it would give me a really nice portable setup for 3 light

I had thought about 1 360 and two other 180 but my thought was might as well go with the 360 for just a bit more $ than the 180s

the reason the 2 360 also would be put two in my 60 soft-lighter when I want that extra bit while away from power ?

for me dont need monobloc like Einstein alien bee cause I have a bunch of photogenics

have a job coming up about 200 headshots thought about using the cheetah ? but might just use my photogenics since I can plug them in and have model lights

why I hate monoblocs for location work is weight ! and bulk etc.. also the cheetah has enough pop I need and a battery that is going to go all day and still really light

why I love monos for location work where I have plugs :) fast recycle and plenty power and I like having really good model lights

depending on gear you have ? and I was starting out
I would maybe have two Einstein and two cheetahs

chances are doing multi light stuff you will have plenty of options :)

just my thoughts since I am rethinking my lighting now with the cheetahs

DamianOz wrote in post #16232552 (external link)
I only bought one, to see what its like and mainly for complimenting outdoor ambient at high speeds.

Now what to get for multi light indoor portraiture. 2 more 360s, a 360 and 180, a couple strobes (Godox 600 or 400) or may be a couple Einsteins.

Anyway, I'm exited to join the club.


ChadDahlquist.com (external link) - photography site
HappyFish.com (external link) - post production services for professional photographers

  
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DamianOz
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Aug 23, 2013 03:27 |  #2292

Its a bit of a trade off either way
Having strobes with modeling lights I think would be very helpful, but portability and battery power is also important as most of the time I will be mobile and unsure of power availability.
I have no problem buying extra battery packs as needed.

I'm only now getting into lighting, or more accurately, only getting into portraiture on a professional basis, previously I only used the 600EX for fill or as bounce when I had to, I have been mainly a sports and nature photographer doing the odd event or family shoot.


Bodies - Canon EOS 5DIII | EOS 6D
Primes - TS-E24 f/3.5L II | Σ 35mm F1.4 DG Art | EF 85 f/1.2L II | EF 135 f/2L
Zooms - EF 16-35 f/2.8L II | EF 24-70 f/2.8L II | EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS II | Σ 24-105mm F/4 DG OS Art | Σ 120-300mm F/2.8 DG OS Sport

  
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Chad ­ D
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Aug 23, 2013 04:02 |  #2293

YUUP :)

one thing the 600EX and the 5DMKIII is a killer setup :) so ya have the speedlight covered :)

been thinking on selling my photogenic I kinda am changing up my work :)
I know if I could only have one or the other the cheetah would win hands down :)
chances are outdoor portraits I will only be using one light a lot of the time so I need a backup anyway and when I need that extra power I have it I want to throw in a bit of fill I have it

for headshots the cheetah are fine

really I am also going through the should I sell all my photogenic stuff ?
so thinking out loud is kinda helpful to me also
I used to do advertising type stuff but got out about 7 years ago from that
for that stuff I used my photogenc gear about 3-4 days a week so my old needs were quite dif than now :)

I bought my first cheetah on the pre buy and have been using it practicing with it and have to say the more I use it the more I am impressed with it and the 2to1 cable is a must :)

then again gear is fun to get and have hahahahah

DamianOz wrote in post #16232629 (external link)
Its a bit of a trade off either way
Having strobes with modeling lights I think would be very helpful, but portability and battery power is also important as most of the time I will be mobile and unsure of power availability.
I have no problem buying extra battery packs as needed.

I'm only now getting into lighting, or more accurately, only getting into portraiture on a professional basis, previously I only used the 600EX for fill or as bounce when I had to, I have been mainly a sports and nature photographer doing the odd event or family shoot.


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HappyFish.com (external link) - post production services for professional photographers

  
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BigIronCruiser
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Aug 23, 2013 09:11 |  #2294

Ulysses01 wrote in post #16218646 (external link)
B.I.C. - sorry if this is a redundant question. What you describe is exactly what I want to do in some situations. I've never needed to worry about adapters or cables with the PW FlexTT5 and MiniTT1 radios.

When you mention a hot shoe adapter in step #3 quoted below, do you have a recommended adapter and cable? (I'm unsure about the distinction between a miniphone sync terminal and a mono sync terminal —*the PW site almost makes them sound like different things even though I believe they are the same.) Hopefully I could also find a cable with right-angle connector.

Additionally, why not simply seat the CL-xxx into the FlexTT5 hot shoe, even if you need to connect them together with a sync cable? Would there be a conflict here?

Sorry it took a while to get back to you.

I bought a couple of these (external link) right-angle connectors. They work, but it would have been nice to have something a little longer.

I connected FlexTT5's to my Cheetah's in two different ways. The first, and easiest, is to put the Cheetah directly in the shoe of the Flex. The second is to connect P2 on the Flex to the sync port on the Cheetah. My memory is a bit foggy, but I seem to recall that P2 will trigger the Cheetah at speeds above x-sync, and the exposures are useable as long as the Cheetah is in H-mode. I'm not sure this can be done without the sync cable. In terms of placing the Cheetah in the shoe of the Flex while using a sync cable, the center pin of the Flex is still active, so I don't know which would take precedence.




  
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Ulysses01
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Aug 23, 2013 10:28 |  #2295

Thanks, B.I.C. Much appreciated. It's our busiest part of the season, too, so I figured it might take a bit of time. :)

I'm still working on the learning curve associated with developing a new workflow with my lights and radios. For example, I just realized yesterday that what works for the Cheetah Light will not necessarily work for a Nikon Speedlight in this configuration. The reason is because (and someone please help me out here while I'm talking through this in my own head) the Cheetah Light has its power level controlled by the CL-Tx and the CL-Rx plugged into the light. So the FlexTT5 that's connected to the CL-xxx only needs to send a firing signal, and is unable to send information about changes in power level.


However, connecting a FlexTT5 to a remote Speedlight via cable in the P2 port will only send a firing signal without the ability to directly control the Speedlight's power level. So... what to do if I want the ability to separate my PocketWizard from the Speedlight while retaining the ability to remotely control its power levels?

The reason I'm asking the above is because I've had too many instances of the Speedlight falling out of the FlexTT5 hotshoe sometimes with even the slightest movement of the lightstand. So ultimately I'm looking for a better method to secure everything. But it also needs to be clean and simple to setup. The more gear I'm spending time assembling, the less time I'm actually shooting.

Thanks in advance, guys.

BigIronCruiser wrote in post #16233180 (external link)
Sorry it took a while to get back to you.

I bought a couple of these (external link) right-angle connectors. They work, but it would have been nice to have something a little longer.

I connected FlexTT5's to my Cheetah's in two different ways. The first, and easiest, is to put the Cheetah directly in the shoe of the Flex. The second is to connect P2 on the Flex to the sync port on the Cheetah. My memory is a bit foggy, but I seem to recall that P2 will trigger the Cheetah at speeds above x-sync, and the exposures are useable as long as the Cheetah is in H-mode. I'm not sure this can be done without the sync cable. In terms of placing the Cheetah in the shoe of the Flex while using a sync cable, the center pin of the Flex is still active, so I don't know which would take precedence.




  
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