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Thread started 03 Mar 2010 (Wednesday) 09:29
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Samyang/Rokinon 8 mm f/3.5 Aspherical IF MC Fish-eye

 
shinksma
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Aug 22, 2013 21:21 |  #1306

CameraMan wrote in post #16198264 (external link)
Taking them apart is easy. Putting them back together is rather difficult.

If you try and take a cat apart to see how it works, the first thing you have on your hands is a nonworking cat.

Been there, done that. Well, not with a cat, per se, more of the hardware/electronics side of life.

shinksma


5DII | T3i | EF 17-40 L | EF 24-105 L | EF 24 1.4 L II | EF 28 1.8 | EF 85 1.8 | EF 70-200 2.8 L IS II | EF 100-400 L | EF-S 15-85 IS USM | EF-S 17-55 2.8 IS USM | EF-S 10-22 USM | EF 100 2.8 Macro USM | EF-S 18-55 IS | EF 35-80 III | EF-S 55-250 IS | Rokinon 8mm FE | EF 75-300 non-USM III | SMC Takumar 50mm f/1.4 | Tamron 70-210 | 430EX II | Kenko 2x MC4 and 1.4x Pro300DGX TC

  
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kiapolo
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Aug 24, 2013 22:56 |  #1307

First time trying out astrophotography. Milky Way from the summit of Haleakalā, Maui.

IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/9583418837_97f735d02b_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/kiapolo/9583418​837/  (external link)

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kiapolo
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Aug 25, 2013 05:03 |  #1308

Couple more:

IMAGE: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3749/9590158490_c83a7de7fb_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/kiapolo/9590158​490/  (external link)
23 sec.
ISO 3200

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7451/9587364369_c23572444c_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/kiapolo/9587364​369/  (external link)
25 sec.
ISO 3200

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peterluk
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Aug 25, 2013 05:27 |  #1309

This lens is so much fun! I wasn't sure if I wanted to put my tele on ;D

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ride5000
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Aug 25, 2013 06:47 |  #1310

anybody know how to get their hands on a replacement front element? got a nasty scratch on mine last week...


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5dc w/ee-s, rokinon 85mm f/1.4, rokinon 35mm f/1.4, rokinon 8mm f/3.5, sigma 24 f/1.8, canon 35-135 f/3.5-4.5, canon 50mm f/1.8, nikkor s-auto 50mm f/1.4, tokina 11-16 f/2.8, 430ex2, pcb e640, oc-3, st-e2, pixel knight tr332, DiCAPac WPS10, b+w 10 stop nd, hoya hd cpl, kenko ext. tubes, brolly, diy softbox, etc.

  
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kiapolo
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Aug 28, 2013 04:29 |  #1311

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/9593922077_e99b5dd885_b.jpg
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Great place for a picnic. Haleakala, Maui.

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rdmello
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Aug 28, 2013 09:20 |  #1312

^^^^Been there, loved it. I was actually short of breath from the elevation.


60D, 8mm FE, 40mm, 55-250mm, 430 EX II

  
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rdmello
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Aug 28, 2013 09:51 |  #1313

I'm thinking of selling this in favor of an UWA like Tokina 11-16 or Canon 10-22 or Sigma 10-20.

I find that I use it as an UWA instead of a creative lens. Mostly, I use it wide to fit a lot in the pic, and center things to keep them straight. But I do enjoy the curves from time to time.

Do you think I'd be dissappointed? Perhaps because the UWA wouldn't be as wide? Perhaps with the way close objects are distorted?

C'mon guys, give me some reasons to keep my FE.

Here's another question, would it be redundant to have both a FE, and an UWA? Hard to justify the cost of both.


60D, 8mm FE, 40mm, 55-250mm, 430 EX II

  
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ride5000
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Aug 28, 2013 10:31 |  #1314

well i've got the toke 116 and this little guy. different purposes imo.


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5dc w/ee-s, rokinon 85mm f/1.4, rokinon 35mm f/1.4, rokinon 8mm f/3.5, sigma 24 f/1.8, canon 35-135 f/3.5-4.5, canon 50mm f/1.8, nikkor s-auto 50mm f/1.4, tokina 11-16 f/2.8, 430ex2, pcb e640, oc-3, st-e2, pixel knight tr332, DiCAPac WPS10, b+w 10 stop nd, hoya hd cpl, kenko ext. tubes, brolly, diy softbox, etc.

  
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rdmello
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Aug 28, 2013 11:51 |  #1315

Tell me more. How do YOU use them differently? I think I understand the intended differences, but can you share your experience?


60D, 8mm FE, 40mm, 55-250mm, 430 EX II

  
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Trugga
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Aug 28, 2013 13:52 |  #1316

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7299/9599840911_8fdac0e677_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/trugga/95998409​11/  (external link)
Lawrence_Fowler_IMG_29​94_tn (external link) by Trugga (external link), on Flickr

At arms length + mono pod, 10 second delay. Pity the damp weather has settled in the camera (although it did recover for the following day)

Lawrence



  
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ride5000
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Aug 28, 2013 15:52 |  #1317

rdmello wrote in post #16247416 (external link)
Tell me more. How do YOU use them differently? I think I understand the intended differences, but can you share your experience?

well imo/ime:

the fisheye tends to make people look "normal" and buildings/straight lines look "weird"
the rectilinear tends to make people look "weird" and buildings/straight lines look "normal"

of course every rule is made to be broken and i have thousands of shots of people using my rectilinear 116 (external link), and dozens (i haven't had the lens that long) of shots of buildings using the fisheye hd8m-c (external link).

[note: nearly all of those 116 and all of the hd8m-c pics are with a full frame sensor camera.]

the RL lens will stretch objects near the edge of the frame. the FE will compress objects near the edge of the frame. that compression is what allows the lens to capture so much more field of view. both are forms of distortion. the RL will keep lines straight at the expense of angles; the FE will keep angles the same at the expense of straight lines. the FE is obviously wider at 8mm. both lenses will show "perspective distortion"-- ie, close objects are much much bigger than those some distance away--due to the typically short working distances and wide FOV.

this particular RL lens has the benefit of covering the entire full frame sensor at focal lengths longer than 14.5mm or so. this particlar FE necessarily "wastes" some resolution via cropping if you want to cover the full "print." (again, full frame specific.)

some time playing with a lens distortion tool in PS can give you some idea of how things would look fished/defished.

hth
ken


flickr (external link)

5dc w/ee-s, rokinon 85mm f/1.4, rokinon 35mm f/1.4, rokinon 8mm f/3.5, sigma 24 f/1.8, canon 35-135 f/3.5-4.5, canon 50mm f/1.8, nikkor s-auto 50mm f/1.4, tokina 11-16 f/2.8, 430ex2, pcb e640, oc-3, st-e2, pixel knight tr332, DiCAPac WPS10, b+w 10 stop nd, hoya hd cpl, kenko ext. tubes, brolly, diy softbox, etc.

  
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rdmello
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Aug 28, 2013 20:15 |  #1318

Feel like I'd really need to try it out and see. It's not easy for me to understand the differences. Also, I assumed that the UWA would be a little better for people. I find my fisheye distorts people a lot.


60D, 8mm FE, 40mm, 55-250mm, 430 EX II

  
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Talley
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Aug 28, 2013 21:42 |  #1319

rdmello wrote in post #16248807 (external link)
Feel like I'd really need to try it out and see. It's not easy for me to understand the differences. Also, I assumed that the UWA would be a little better for people. I find my fisheye distorts people a lot.

Fisheye does distort but I like the way it looks to me. Looks very natural of you relax the eyes in center feels like you are there.


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ride5000
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Aug 29, 2013 05:10 |  #1320

traditionally speaking, if an ultra-wide must be used on people, fisheyes preserve human proportions better than do rectilinear designs (which tend to stretch/oval the edges of the frame).


flickr (external link)

5dc w/ee-s, rokinon 85mm f/1.4, rokinon 35mm f/1.4, rokinon 8mm f/3.5, sigma 24 f/1.8, canon 35-135 f/3.5-4.5, canon 50mm f/1.8, nikkor s-auto 50mm f/1.4, tokina 11-16 f/2.8, 430ex2, pcb e640, oc-3, st-e2, pixel knight tr332, DiCAPac WPS10, b+w 10 stop nd, hoya hd cpl, kenko ext. tubes, brolly, diy softbox, etc.

  
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Samyang/Rokinon 8 mm f/3.5 Aspherical IF MC Fish-eye
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