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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
Nikkor316
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Aug 31, 2013 07:52 |  #2371

DamianOz wrote in post #16255642 (external link)
Has anyone compare the the CL360 to an AlienBee 1600 at HS speeds (shutter speeds of 1/8000 or 1/4000), to see which produces more light?

Why the AB1600? The CL360 is about the same output as the AB800 which is 320ws. CL360 and AB800 would be a better apples to apples comparison.


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Nikkor316
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Aug 31, 2013 08:00 |  #2372

So I have previously posted my success in using both CL180/CL360 with Pocket Wizards for HSS but I thought I'd try another test and pass along the results. Since both CLxxx work with Hyper sync when flash is set to 1/1 (full power) without H mode enabled, I thought I'd try it without using PW's and only use the CLTx/CLRx. As expected, you get black screen or bars above camera sync speed. However, using only the PW miniTT1 on camera with CL-Tx in bypass hot shoe and only CL-Rx on flash without PW, the mini adjust the timing signal and passes it along to CL-Tx to fire CL-Rx allowing the flash to be used in "Hyper sync" mode only (not HSS) without a PW receiver...only transmitter.

Although not as useful as full HSS, hypersync can be usefull and thought it was worth noting that it can be done without a high end receiver on the other end.


Matt

  
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DamianOz
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Aug 31, 2013 08:14 |  #2373

Nikkor316 wrote in post #16255839 (external link)
Why the AB1600? The CL360 is about the same output as the AB800 which is 320ws. CL360 and AB800 would be a better apples to apples comparison.

The CL strobes, the AB uses after burn, two different lighting methods. I would suspect strobing would provide more light. But really, I want stronger light than 1 CL360 in H mode, and am wanting to know if the AB 1600 would do it


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DamianOz
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Aug 31, 2013 08:59 |  #2374

Nikkor316 wrote in post #16255854 (external link)
So I have previously posted my success in using both CL180/CL360 with Pocket Wizards for HSS but I thought I'd try another test and pass along the results. Since both CLxxx work with Hyper sync when flash is set to 1/1 (full power) without H mode enabled, I thought I'd try it without using PW's and only use the CLTx/CLRx. As expected, you get black screen or bars above camera sync speed. However, using only the PW miniTT1 on camera with CL-Tx in bypass hot shoe and only CL-Rx on flash without PW, the mini adjust the timing signal and passes it along to CL-Tx to fire CL-Rx allowing the flash to be used in "Hyper sync" mode only (not HSS) without a PW receiver...only transmitter.

Although not as useful as full HSS, hypersync can be usefull and thought it was worth noting that it can be done without a high end receiver on the other end.

I wander what the difference in light intensity is between HSS and Hypersync?


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dmward
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Aug 31, 2013 09:12 |  #2375

Nikkor316 wrote in post #16255854 (external link)
So I have previously posted my success in using both CL180/CL360 with Pocket Wizards for HSS but I thought I'd try another test and pass along the results. Since both CLxxx work with Hyper sync when flash is set to 1/1 (full power) without H mode enabled, I thought I'd try it without using PW's and only use the CLTx/CLRx. As expected, you get black screen or bars above camera sync speed. However, using only the PW miniTT1 on camera with CL-Tx in bypass hot shoe and only CL-Rx on flash without PW, the mini adjust the timing signal and passes it along to CL-Tx to fire CL-Rx allowing the flash to be used in "Hyper sync" mode only (not HSS) without a PW receiver...only transmitter.

Although not as useful as full HSS, hypersync can be usefull and thought it was worth noting that it can be done without a high end receiver on the other end.

My testing indicates that the flash duration for both the CL-180 and 360 is long enough to support shutter speeds up to 1/8000 of a second using an FP-sync capable trigger. The timing tweaks may add a slight bit of exposure benefit but any HyperSync application will have some gradation because as the shutter slit is traveling the tail is diminishing.
The best lights for Hyper Sync are higher output lights that use voltage control, such as the AB1600, when they are at lower power settings. The benefit is a flatter tail to minimize gradation.

I've found that the gradation, while easily seen when photographing a white wall, is insignificant in a real shooting situation since ambient light is the predominate light for the background.


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
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DamianOz
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Aug 31, 2013 09:31 |  #2376

Any idea which way the shutters move on a 5D3? if they move up, then a graduation could be advantageous


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ZoranC
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Aug 31, 2013 11:46 |  #2377

Nikkor316 wrote in post #16255854 (external link)
However, using only the PW miniTT1 on camera with CL-Tx in bypass hot shoe and only CL-Rx on flash without PW, the mini adjust the timing signal and passes it along to CL-Tx to fire CL-Rx allowing the flash to be used in "Hyper sync" mode only (not HSS) without a PW receiver...only transmitter.

Although not as useful as full HSS, hypersync can be usefull and thought it was worth noting that it can be done without a high end receiver on the other end.

I tried this and it didn'[t work for me. Or maybe I did test wrong. Could you please share your settings on Mini?




  
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Osiriz
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Aug 31, 2013 12:44 |  #2378

Ginga wrote in post #16255711 (external link)
Np. But don't take my word for it since I am certain. Perhaps someone else here knows for sure?

Gotcha. :) Guess I'll run some tests then.




  
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elv
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Aug 31, 2013 13:12 |  #2379

Nikkor316 wrote in post #16255854 (external link)
using only the PW miniTT1 on camera with CL-Tx in bypass hot shoe and only CL-Rx on flash without PW, the mini adjust the timing signal and passes it along to CL-Tx to fire CL-Rx allowing the flash to be used in "Hyper sync" mode only (not HSS) without a PW receiver...only transmitter.

Although not as useful as full HSS, hypersync can be usefull and thought it was worth noting that it can be done without a high end receiver on the other end.

I posted a few pages back a person emailed saying this works.

I don't quite understand what you mean about the HSS not working though? Its the same Pre-Sync signal needed for both, so you should get be getting some results with H-mode switched on, if its getting a clean frame with H-mode off.

What do you see when you turn H-mode on then?
.


FLASHHAVOC.COM (external link)

  
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Gaarryy
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Aug 31, 2013 15:15 |  #2380

Looked back through the thread and didn't see this answered.
What type of recycle times are people getting on full & half power? Not using the 2-1 cable.
Is apx 7-8 sec for full and 5 for half about right. Will the 2-1 cable cut that in half?


---------------Camera, Lens, Flash stuff.. but still wanting more

  
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tetrode
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Aug 31, 2013 15:47 |  #2381

Gaarryy wrote in post #16256655 (external link)
Looked back through the thread and didn't see this answered.
What type of recycle times are people getting on full & half power? Not using the 2-1 cable.
Is apx 7-8 sec for full and 5 for half about right. Will the 2-1 cable cut that in half?

Did you try "Search This Thread" ?? :-)

https://photography-on-the.net …p=15845605&post​count=1008




  
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Osiriz
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Aug 31, 2013 15:53 |  #2382

Ginga wrote in post #16254367 (external link)
I'm not really sure but I don't think it matters. I just leave my reflector off when shooting the flash inside a softbox.

I think the reflector is meant for shoot thru and bounce umbrellas only.

Ginga wrote in post #16255711 (external link)
Np. But don't take my word for it since I am certain.

Perhaps someone else here knows for sure?

Well your guess was right. My tests show that the reflector isn't needed inside Apollo type softboxes. At least I could not see any significant difference in the light.




  
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Gaarryy
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Aug 31, 2013 21:23 |  #2383

tetrode wrote in post #16256733 (external link)
Did you try "Search This Thread" ?? :-)

https://photography-on-the.net …p=15845605&post​count=1008


Thank you. both for the link and I didn't know that you could search a thread, like that. I used the regular search.

Very cool.

Thanks Again


---------------Camera, Lens, Flash stuff.. but still wanting more

  
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dmward
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Sep 01, 2013 00:21 |  #2384

DamianOz wrote in post #16256017 (external link)
Any idea which way the shutters move on a 5D3? if they move up, then a graduation could be advantageous

I THINK it moves from the bottom to top so the shadow is at the bottom of the image.
People suggest turning the camera upside down to get the shadow at the top where the sky is for horizontals.


David | Sharing my Insights, Knowledge & Experience (external link) | dmwfotos website (external link)

  
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mmmfotografie
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Sep 01, 2013 13:21 |  #2385

dmward wrote in post #16257661 (external link)
I THINK it moves from the bottom to top so the shadow is at the bottom of the image.
People suggest turning the camera upside down to get the shadow at the top where the sky is for horizontals.

I alway thought that the sun has a very looooooooooooooong burn so the sky is exposed constantly at daytime.

Secondly the flash is very strong, but not strong enough to light the clouds in the sky.

Yes, it is very strange to keep your camera up-side-down but the result counts!




  
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
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