Canon EOS 70D officially announced!

Ranger, shooting at f22 detracts from the sharpness of the photos due to diffraction. Typically up to f11 is what most people do nowadays.

MakisM1 wrote in post #16255222
Ranger, shooting at f22 detracts from the sharpness of the photos due to diffraction. Typically up to f11 is what most people do nowadays.

I never knew that. Thanks for that info. This is all just something I enjoy tinkering with and I'm self taught so all this really helps. I appreciate the feedback. Thanks.

I learned this here in POTN...

zask wrote in post #16255111
Guys I am in bit of conundrum and would like your input/experience to decide whether I should get 6d or 70d.

I am not a professional photographer, photography is my hobby. As I am a researcher and for that I travel a lot and I usually do a mix of street photography (35% of my pictures), Architectures (heritage sites, churches, museums) (30% of my pictures) landscapes (25% of my pictures) and bit of portraits (around 10% of my pictures are portraits). I don't print these pictures in big formats, prefer to show them on my laptop, high resolutions screens. These pictures are more of a personal memories and for visual enjoyment.

Currently, I am using 500d (as I thought that I should master this before I moved to another level) and lens I use are: Canon EF 50mm f/1.4, Canon EF-S 17-55mm f2.8 IS and Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS.

I am particularly concerned about Image sharpness, Image quality and low light photography and therefore was thinking of 6d but I gather from the pictures posted in this forum that 70d is not doing bad in these areas as well.

I understand that these two cameras belong to two different world but would appreciate your input.

Thanks.

If you choose the 6D you would need to replace the 17-55 f/2.8 because it won't work on the 6D. So plan on more cost for the 6D and new lens.

Ranger187 wrote in post #16255129
Thanks buddy.

I was under the impression I needed F22 for a bigger DOF.

If you've got a smart phone download a DOF calculator. Depending upon your distance from the subject and the focal length you're using you may be surprised how much depth you can get wide open and conversely how little depth you can get at F22.

As soon as I finish uploading this raw file I will. Thanks.

Ranger187 wrote in post #16254390
It was at like 27mm...

You guys rock. Thanks. Something like this I won't forget again. Baha.... DUHR!

The max aperture is a function of the focal length - e.g. a 200mm f4 means 200mm/4 = 50mm aperture size. It's why apertures are sometimes written as f/4 (as it's focal length / f number).

As this means you'd need a larger physical aperture the longer the focal length, a lot of zooms have a variable aperture, such that they can give you a smaller f number at the shorter end of the range, but not at the long end of the range, as the aperture size would then be too large for the lens barrel (unless the lens were built larger).

This is why there is such large difference in size and weight between, say, a 300mm f4 (2.63lbs) and a 300mm f2.8 (5.19lbs) as the f4 needs a 300mm/4 = 75mm max aperture. The f2.8 needs a massive 300mm/2.8 = 107mm hole!

600mm f4? 150mm aperture!

Ranger187 wrote in post #16254967
It just seems like I'm lacking detail on farther shots. The closer shots are fine. And I'm talking in 18mm (18-55mm) and 55mm (55-250mm) lenses.... I'm wondering if it's settings. At least I have the RAW+JPG for the shots.

It could just be my lack of experience and inability to process correctly. But the JPG's make me cringe.

I think the correct description would be it's not "crisp" and "sharp".

If this is still bothering you it's worth doing a quick test to see if it's you (unfortunately most likely) or the lens/camera combo.

In good light put the camera on a tripod (or somewhere solid). At 250mm close the lens down one stop (should let the lens give a high quality result), turn off the lens stabilisation, set the ISO at 400 or less and a shutter speed of say 1/500 or smaller (just in case the tripod's not that steady) and use the live view touch screen to pick your focus point (takes MFA out of the equation). Set the camera to take a pic on a 2 or 10 second delay and see what the pic looks like. Hopefully it's sharp. I it is then the problem is either that you need to MFA your lens or you need to MFA yourself! If that's the case then it will come to you if you persevere!

While I was outside doing what you said, I realized how bad this crap generic tripod is.

You could see the camera jitter (it was on a wooden deck, not concrete) if I moved slightly. So that's one issue I need to address.

The next was that I *somewhat* noticed better focus on MF, zoomed in x10 and adjusted versus AF on 2 lenses.

3 lenses, 3 pictures.

http://www.flickr.com …10932061/with/9​638857982/

New tripod. Never ends.

sounds like you need a sturdier deck...

Well, the woman won't complain about any camera purchases, since she loves Canon. And I just booked us a cruise to Bermuda in 2014.

I think I could swing another tripod if I ate ramen noodles for a year.

So does the 70D autofocus at F8?

example with:

300mm F4 + 2.0x TC
or
400mm F5.6 + 1.4x TC
or
500mm F4 + 2.0x TC

is this still the tripod you bought?
https://photography-on-the.net …p=16225975&post​count=1472
i wouldn't call it 'crap generic'

I am using the Best Buy suncrap. I've not had time to open the other boxes yet.