A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

To clarify, I was using hypersync at 1/1 full power, not HSS and H-mode. Will try to test again.

https://photography-on-the.net …p=16255854&post​count=2372

"Since both CLxxx work with Hyper sync when flash is set to 1/1 (full power) without H mode enabled, I thought I'd try it without using PW's and only use the CLTx/CLRx. As expected, you get black screen or bars above camera sync speed. However, using only the PW miniTT1 on camera with CL-Tx in bypass hot shoe and only CL-Rx on flash without PW, the mini adjust the timing signal and passes it along to CL-Tx to fire CL-Rx allowing the flash to be used in "Hyper sync" mode only (not HSS) without a PW receiver...only transmitter."

Meddin Studios wrote in post #16277690
Also, just want to say I never had the AC5 or hotshoe RF reducer with my TT5s before. My 580's now fire further than when they had 622's by a long shot with respect to obstructions. I went down the hall in the studio about 150ft through 2 glass doors and still had perfect HSS sync. The 622's choked about 3/4 down the same hall and never could have mustered a second door. It's a pain wearing the sock but man do they work.

I miss the AF light dearly though.

Which RF shield are you using?

I had a problem again with my 360 not firing HSS, the tube appeared to be fully seated, I removed it, then put it back and HSS worked again.

DamianOz wrote in post #16251615
I ordered a Kacey 22" beauty dish with Bowens mount, we'll see hoe that goes.

I'm curious to see how this setup works out. Please update us when you get your beauty dish!

I took my 30" umbrella frame octa outside and wasn't able to use it due to the wind. I'm wondering if a beauty dish would be better.

Nikkor316 wrote in post #16278324
To clarify, I was using hypersync at 1/1 full power, not HSS and H-mode. Will try to test again.

https://photography-on-the.net …p=16255854&post​count=2372

"Since both CLxxx work with Hyper sync when flash is set to 1/1 (full power) without H mode enabled, I thought I'd try it without using PW's and only use the CLTx/CLRx. As expected, you get black screen or bars above camera sync speed. However, using only the PW miniTT1 on camera with CL-Tx in bypass hot shoe and only CL-Rx on flash without PW, the mini adjust the timing signal and passes it along to CL-Tx to fire CL-Rx allowing the flash to be used in "Hyper sync" mode only (not HSS) without a PW receiver...only transmitter."

Thank you for your reply For some reason I was thinking post was saying it allows use of H mode with less than full power. I know I can get fine sync when using full power in non-H mode with PW as both TX and RX. I will have to try again full power non-H mode using CL RX and CL TX in hot shoe of TT1.

eventsof - yes the 622's work in HSS when connected via PC or via hotshoe (or both using one 622 to fire two) of the CL's. They just don't provide the same output as the Odin's do which is typically a full stop better and a 1/3 stop with the Cells II (or Cells IIC).

butterfly - I'm using the AC5 RF shield with their RF hotshoe adapter that comes with the TT5's. It's a pain losing visual of the flash screen but they really do work. I use the PD960 (Cheetah 4500) battery packs with 580's so the coiled cable just feeds up through the sock and the bungy tightens onto the hotshoe adapter. As an aside, I highly recommend anyone using the 8AA battery packs (Pixel, Canon, etc) to make the jump to Godox's/Cheetah's lithium blocks. These things rock and I went from carrying 50-75 AA's per shoot to just a couple dozen. I'm over sitting around for 12 bay AA chargers to finish doing their thing. Plus the lithium packs really hold their recycles after prolonged use (down to 25% or less vs diminishing AA strength).

I found this link regarding HSS and PW custom settings:
http://www.flickr.com …iscuss/72157634​428487427/

Which is where I'm at. HSS vs HS and actually measuring the values as you tweak the timing. I also think I'll have to replace my PWIII's with TT5 in order to get HSS with the CL's which is a shame because I like having the III's/CL's on their own "D" zone leaving me with 3 TTL zones to manually adjust.

I also want to figure out if I set the Mini to trigger only if I can use the AC3 to quickly flip zones on and off without messing up my Sekonic Control TL settings (manual levels). My AC3's aren't back until Monday or Tues so I'm kind of theorizing at the moment. Perhaps when the camera fires, whatever device was used last (AC3 or Sekonic) will take precedence.

My testing, with Canon, indicates that both the CL-360 and CL-180 will provide reasonably smooth light with shutter speeds up to 1/8000 at full power. (thanks to relatively slow t.1 burn time.) It does require something connected to the camera hot shoe that convinces the camera that it should permit FP-sync. That FP-sync fire signal has to be transmitted to the CL-xxx via its CL-rx or mini-jack.

My recollection is that ControlTL has a setting that delivers the HyperSync FP-sync signal to fire only PWs such as the Plus II and III. That should permit the combined application being discussed.

ZoranC wrote in post #16278784
Thank you for your reply For some reason I was thinking post was saying it allows use of H mode with less than full power. I know I can get fine sync when using full power in non-H mode with PW as both TX and RX. I will have to try again full power non-H mode using CL RX and CL TX in hot shoe of TT1.

I just tried this and no, it's not working for me.

Meddin Studios wrote in post #16278802
I found this link regarding HSS and PW custom settings:
http://www.flickr.com …iscuss/72157634​428487427/

Nice to see my topic quoted over here. My conclusion after my adventure with PW and the AD/CL360 is that the best performance is to put a Canon flash, or compatible, on top of the Flex5 and connect the AD/CL360 to the P2 port.

I don't use HSS/FP of the flash for my shoots so I using the FT-16 triggerset and stay below 1/200s, preferable at 1/160s as syncspeed.

ZoranC wrote in post #16278834
I just tried this and no, it's not working for me.

Tested again with PW FlexTT5 receiver - both hypersync and HSS (H-mode) worked upto 1/8000 sec.

Tested again without PW receiver (only TT1 transmitter on camera with CL-Tx in bypass hotshoe) - hypersync worked as previously described at 1/1 full power. I tried the same test with H-mode enabled and I was only able to go upto 1/1600 sec before some slight vignetting (dark band at bottom of frame) started but still useful after cropping bottom.

Nikkor316 wrote in post #16279172
Tested again with PW FlexTT5 receiver - both hypersync and HSS (H-mode) worked upto 1/8000 sec.

Tested again without PW receiver (only TT1 transmitter on camera with CL-Tx in bypass hotshoe) - hypersync worked as previously described at 1/1 full power. I tried the same test with H-mode enabled and I was only able to go upto 1/1600 sec before some slight vignetting (dark band at bottom of frame) started but still useful after cropping bottom.

Hmmmm... Either something is going on or I am doing something wrong, I just wish I knew what is happening. We know I was able to do clean 1/8000 sync at 1/1 non-H using your settings and PW as both TX and RX. I can't remember did I try to do same in H mode and what was result, I will have to retest. I also know that all of my PWs are on latest firmware so that shouldn't be it. My D700 is most likely not on latest fw so I will update it and try again.

ZoranC wrote in post #16279425
My D700 is most likely not on latest fw so I will update it and try again.

Firmware update in D700 didn't make a difference so that's not it.

Just reporting back after shooting. Here's my findings how I just setup for a non-HSS shoot. This worked perfectly with any shutter below 1/250:

- 5D3 with TT1 and CL-Tx in the hotshoe
- CL360's have CL-Rx and PW3 in P2 port
- TT5's on 580EXII's
- CL-Tx in one hand as a remote
- Sekonic 478DR in other hand

All PW's are setup as CH17 for both STD and CTL modes (anything above 16 works I believe). Mini was setup as trigger-only mode in 1st menu, with rest at default. This allows the Sekonic to fully control the 580's. The TT5's were left as default settings other than CH17 and leaving TTL as default.

In this configuration I could trigger any of the 4 zones (ABC for 580's and D for CL's) from my meter and take readings. I could NOT however turn off zones selectively for the actual exposure, meaning leave them off when I snap the shutter. They would only stay off for metering which is a shame and means the AC3 is needed again.

This works great in studio settings but still lacks remote zoom head adjustment and the CL's are still their own remote. If only Godox/Cheetah/Calumet could work with PW to make a USB Control TL system. Next up is seeing how to implement an AC3, how well multiple TT1/AC3's play together, and HSS with TT5's with H-Mode/Non H and HS output.

I know that I and everybody else in this thread is completely in love with the CL/Godox 180 and 360. But does anybody know how good this flash is selling world wide? I'm interested to know if it has received all the attention and impact it deserves.

Where I live it seems that no one ever heard about this flash, but when I show it to my photographer friends they are instantly über-impressed and wants to know where they can order it.

I think this flash deserves and needs more publicity.

Ginga wrote in post #16280458
I know that I and everybody else in this thread is completely in love with the CL/Godox 180 and 360. But does anybody know how good this flash is selling world wide? I'm interested to know if it has received all the attention and impact it deserves.

Where I live it seems that no one ever heard about this flash, but when I show it to my photographer friends they are instantly über-impressed and wants to know where they can order it.

I think this flash deserves and needs more publicity.

Do you say über-impressed in Avellino in Italy?

PS: If you are n Italy then you are some how near to this dealer, take a look at his price: http://www.dynaphos.co​m …p?c=29&sc=0&id=​2002&ln=EN