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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 09 Sep 2013 (Monday) 04:58
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Disappointed :(

 
Keyan
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Sep 09, 2013 08:43 |  #31

Raylon wrote in post #16280997 (external link)
If it's a slow game there is no reason for manual focusing. I wouldn't bother with it. Just learn to use the AF effectively. Also I wouldn't disable AI Servo unless you want a bunch of blurry photos. There should be a setting on the T5i that prioritizes FPS over AF Accuracy if you really need the FPS.

Like others have said, make sure you are disabling RAW while turning on JPEG, not just enabling JPEG and then shoot with both. Also as others have said, I think the bigger issue here is good anticipation. It may seem like complete randomness when things happen, but there is a pattern you will learn and be able to anticipate things.

The Rebel series don't have a focus priority setting, they fire when you press the shutter. Interestingly I've heard that the 60D at least WILL do focus priority when on "sports" mode, but in the manual control modes there is no setting for this. I think it is the same for the T5i.

Finally, back to the OP:

Shoot in jpeg. What PP do you do that you can only do with a RAW file? Shooting in S3 means you are shooting in a lossy RAW format anyway - much of the data is discarded and your end result is likely WORSE than a standard full resolution jpeg file. Honestly the Digic 5 based cameras do such a good job with jpeg processing that unless you are going to be lifting shadows or recovering highlights all the time, the jpegs are more than acceptible quality. I don't personally believe in shooting in RAW just for the sake of shooting in RAW, I use jpeg most of the time and always when I am bursting. The time and storage requirements just don't make RAW appealing to me in most applications. There are times when it is the correct tool and I will use it, but not for probably 95% of the time I am using the camera.


Cameras: 7D2, S100
Lenses: 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM, 18-135 STM, 24-70 f/4L IS USM, 50 f/1.4 USM,70-300L IS USM
Other Stuff: 430 EX II, Luma Labs Loop 3, CamRanger

  
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rrblint
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Sep 09, 2013 09:13 |  #32

Shake N Vac wrote in post #16281028 (external link)
Check whether you have the high ISO noise reduction/long exposure noise reduction turned on as I vaguely remember a thread back when the t4i launched along a similar vein to your thread and this was a contributing factor.

+1

This is probably the culprit.


Mark

  
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paintcheck
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Sep 09, 2013 15:24 as a reply to  @ rrblint's post |  #33

Shake N Vac wrote in post #16281028 (external link)
Check whether you have the high ISO noise reduction/long exposure noise reduction turned on as I vaguely remember a thread back when the t4i launched along a similar vein to your thread and this was a contributing factor.

Thanks, I will look into that tonight!

5Dmaniac wrote in post #16281030 (external link)
You won't get much more RAW buffer with these entry level cameras and it sounds that even a 1D series would not do what you want! What you want is video like spraying - so switch to video instead:-)

Frodge wrote in post #16281071 (external link)
I'm not trying to be a critic, but he whole spray and pray idea negates the whole idea of being a photographer and framing the shot that you want. Better off just filming and breaking down the frames into shots.

Lowner wrote in post #16281082 (external link)
Completely agree. Buy a video camera or learn to be a photographer.

Shake N Vac wrote in post #16281093 (external link)
I could be wrong but the impression I got is not that burst is being used to spray and pray in the hope of catching one good shot amid the burst of images but is to create a sequence of images showing the whole of the players movement from start to finish.

Possibly to achieve this sort of thing: http://www.lboro.ac.uk …hanics/images/b​rendan.jpg (external link)

Frodge wrote in post #16281104 (external link)
I stand corrected if that is the case.

Thanks, but I am not looking to take video. Shake n Vac is correct. I am wanting to capture the entire series of events from the time the player decides to make his move, till the time its complete.

John from PA wrote in post #16281043 (external link)
The T5i should be up to date as far as firmware but you may want to check or perhaps even do a reflash. There was someone here a few months back that was having issues which seemed to be cleared up with a firmware revision.

I will double check the firmware when I get home. Hopefully it should be up to date as it is not that old, but who knows how long its been in a warehouse!

Radders wrote in post #16281098 (external link)
Have you got any sample images to share with us?

I will dig up a couple when I get home.

Keyan wrote in post #16281236 (external link)
The Rebel series don't have a focus priority setting, they fire when you press the shutter. Interestingly I've heard that the 60D at least WILL do focus priority when on "sports" mode, but in the manual control modes there is no setting for this. I think it is the same for the T5i.

Finally, back to the OP:

Shoot in jpeg. What PP do you do that you can only do with a RAW file? Shooting in S3 means you are shooting in a lossy RAW format anyway - much of the data is discarded and your end result is likely WORSE than a standard full resolution jpeg file. Honestly the Digic 5 based cameras do such a good job with jpeg processing that unless you are going to be lifting shadows or recovering highlights all the time, the jpegs are more than acceptible quality. I don't personally believe in shooting in RAW just for the sake of shooting in RAW, I use jpeg most of the time and always when I am bursting. The time and storage requirements just don't make RAW appealing to me in most applications. There are times when it is the correct tool and I will use it, but not for probably 95% of the time I am using the camera.

I shot just a bunch of random things in the S3, I did not use it for actual production use, which is how I figured out that it would still only do 6 images at a go. Given the environment we play in, its really hard to get great settings configured because it is a) down in a valley under a trees, b) there is a large open area between the two woods that is used for play as well. So what I do is try to get the best settings, then adjust them in photoshop within reason to bring out what I want. I see what you are saying though, I will try jpeg next time I'm out there and see if that works. But I've tried all of the different file settings (raw vs jpeg vs S1,S3, etc) and it will only give me 6 shots max :(


Camera(s): 7D, (wishing for a 5dm3)
Lenses: Tamron 70-200 f2.8 VC / Tamron 75-300 f/4-5.6 / Canon Nifty Fifty / Tamron 10-24 f/3.5-4.5
Cards: 16GB/32Gb SanDisks CF

  
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reefvilla
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Sep 09, 2013 15:38 as a reply to  @ paintcheck's post |  #34

Have you tried to reset the camera to default settings and eliminate any settings you may have altered?


-----------Canon EOS R -----------

  
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Keyan
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Sep 09, 2013 16:11 as a reply to  @ reefvilla's post |  #35

Ok, then there is a setting somewhere, does it show you 6 shots in jpeg too?

Have you tried a different card and/or done a low level format of the card (warning, deletes all data) in the camera? Make sure you select the low level format option.


Cameras: 7D2, S100
Lenses: 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM, 18-135 STM, 24-70 f/4L IS USM, 50 f/1.4 USM,70-300L IS USM
Other Stuff: 430 EX II, Luma Labs Loop 3, CamRanger

  
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paintcheck
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Sep 09, 2013 16:25 |  #36

Keyan wrote in post #16282572 (external link)
Ok, then there is a setting somewhere, does it show you 6 shots in jpeg too?

Have you tried a different card and/or done a low level format of the card (warning, deletes all data) in the camera? Make sure you select the low level format option.

reefvilla wrote in post #16282484 (external link)
Have you tried to reset the camera to default settings and eliminate any settings you may have altered?

Doing both now. Keyan, yes, it shows me 6 shots per burst no matter what I set, be that S1, S1+Raw, Raw, S3, etc. :(


Camera(s): 7D, (wishing for a 5dm3)
Lenses: Tamron 70-200 f2.8 VC / Tamron 75-300 f/4-5.6 / Canon Nifty Fifty / Tamron 10-24 f/3.5-4.5
Cards: 16GB/32Gb SanDisks CF

  
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slickaj115
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Sep 09, 2013 16:46 |  #37

sell it and get a 40d. amazing action camera. I just bought mine on amazon for 244 shipped with 1400 clicks. It is amazing, and keeps up with anything! I now have a t2i I will probably very rarely use! The xxd series of cameras blow away rebels plain and simple. Plus, reading your initial post, for action shots I'd recommend some faster glass as well, as in 2.8, or even f/4.

Cheers.


Nikon D300 / Nikon D70 / Nikon 18-70 3.5-4.5 / Nikon 35mm f1.8G / Nikon 50mm f1.8G / Nikon 70-210 f4 AF / Yongnuo 468ii
Previously had Canon 5dc / Canon 40d / Canon 60d / Canon 7d

  
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paintcheck
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Sep 09, 2013 16:46 as a reply to  @ paintcheck's post |  #38

Update: So for starters, I did the low level format first before clearing camera settings. This fixed my first problem of only being able to shoot 6 on any setting.. now I get 12 out of L-Fine and higher as I go lower quality. Still get just 6 in raw, which is fine. When I first got the cards I did a low level, but apparently it didn't like it for some reason, so its all working now :)

But to be safe, I cleared all of my settings from the camera just to give myself a fresh slate to work with. Now the lens is loud as all get out! Can hear it grinding as it tries to autofocus :(

Not sure if one caused the other or if it's just pure dumb luck! HA!


Camera(s): 7D, (wishing for a 5dm3)
Lenses: Tamron 70-200 f2.8 VC / Tamron 75-300 f/4-5.6 / Canon Nifty Fifty / Tamron 10-24 f/3.5-4.5
Cards: 16GB/32Gb SanDisks CF

  
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paintcheck
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Sep 09, 2013 16:48 |  #39

slickaj115 wrote in post #16282697 (external link)
sell it and get a 40d. amazing action camera. I just bought mine on amazon for 244 shipped with 1400 clicks. It is amazing, and keeps up with anything! I now have a t2i I will probably very rarely use! The xxd series of cameras blow away rebels plain and simple. Plus, reading your initial post, for action shots I'd recommend some faster glass as well, as in 2.8, or even f/4.

Cheers.

Thanks! Trust me, faster glass is definitely on my list, but my money tree is a little dry at the moment so I have to make do with what I've got. Definitely have been eyeballing some better glass for sure!


Camera(s): 7D, (wishing for a 5dm3)
Lenses: Tamron 70-200 f2.8 VC / Tamron 75-300 f/4-5.6 / Canon Nifty Fifty / Tamron 10-24 f/3.5-4.5
Cards: 16GB/32Gb SanDisks CF

  
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Keyan
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Sep 09, 2013 17:30 |  #40

abhphotography wrote in post #16282698 (external link)
Update: So for starters, I did the low level format first before clearing camera settings. This fixed my first problem of only being able to shoot 6 on any setting.. now I get 12 out of L-Fine and higher as I go lower quality. Still get just 6 in raw, which is fine. When I first got the cards I did a low level, but apparently it didn't like it for some reason, so its all working now :)

But to be safe, I cleared all of my settings from the camera just to give myself a fresh slate to work with. Now the lens is loud as all get out! Can hear it grinding as it tries to autofocus :(

Not sure if one caused the other or if it's just pure dumb luck! HA!

The 18-55 is not a quiet focusing lens....it is still focusing, correct?

Your burst counts are probably about right for a T5i. See the specs here:
http://www.usa.canon.c​om …is_stm_kit#Spec​ifications (external link)

Under the drive system section about half way down.


Cameras: 7D2, S100
Lenses: 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM, 18-135 STM, 24-70 f/4L IS USM, 50 f/1.4 USM,70-300L IS USM
Other Stuff: 430 EX II, Luma Labs Loop 3, CamRanger

  
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paintcheck
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Sep 09, 2013 17:32 |  #41

Keyan wrote in post #16282870 (external link)
The 18-55 is not a quiet focusing lens....it is still focusing, correct?

Your burst counts are probably about right for a T5i. See the specs here:
http://www.usa.canon.c​om …is_stm_kit#Spec​ifications (external link)

Under the drive system section about half way down.

It's my 55-250 lens :( I'm going to be so bummed if this lens is on the fritz!

The bursts counts now match my manual. I assumed it was just because I had slow cards :( but apparently it wasnt! ha!


Camera(s): 7D, (wishing for a 5dm3)
Lenses: Tamron 70-200 f2.8 VC / Tamron 75-300 f/4-5.6 / Canon Nifty Fifty / Tamron 10-24 f/3.5-4.5
Cards: 16GB/32Gb SanDisks CF

  
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Frodge
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Sep 09, 2013 17:43 |  #42

slickaj115 wrote in post #16282697 (external link)
.... The xxd series of cameras blow away rebels plain and simple..

I respectfully disagree with this. Blow away? I have a T3i and a 60d. What makes the 60d "blow away" the t3i? Lets stay away from grip size and top lcd and quicker controls. The fps is a little better, but blow away is disingenuous way to describe the difference between the two. I say this with all due respect.


_______________
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Equipment: Tokina 12-24mm, Canon 40mm 2.8, Tamron 17-50 2.8 XR Di, Canon 18-55mm, Canon 50mm 1.8, Tamron 70-300VC / T3I and 60D

  
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Keyan
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Sep 09, 2013 17:58 |  #43

abhphotography wrote in post #16282882 (external link)
It's my 55-250 lens :( I'm going to be so bummed if this lens is on the fritz!

The bursts counts now match my manual. I assumed it was just because I had slow cards :( but apparently it wasnt! ha!

The 55-250 is also pretty loud. Mine is plenty loud.


Cameras: 7D2, S100
Lenses: 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM, 18-135 STM, 24-70 f/4L IS USM, 50 f/1.4 USM,70-300L IS USM
Other Stuff: 430 EX II, Luma Labs Loop 3, CamRanger

  
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Keyan
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Sep 09, 2013 18:04 |  #44

Frodge wrote in post #16282916 (external link)
I respectfully disagree with this. Blow away? I have a T3i and a 60d. What makes the 60d "blow away" the t3i? Lets stay away from grip size and top lcd and quicker controls. The fps is a little better, but blow away is disingenuous way to describe the difference between the two. I say this with all due respect.

There are a lot of pretty significant differences under the surface between those two, but this post isn't about a camera comparison. The 60D is less competitive vs the T4i or the T5i.


Cameras: 7D2, S100
Lenses: 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM, 18-135 STM, 24-70 f/4L IS USM, 50 f/1.4 USM,70-300L IS USM
Other Stuff: 430 EX II, Luma Labs Loop 3, CamRanger

  
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Flores
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Sep 09, 2013 18:24 |  #45

a couple of suggestions:

go to back button focus (I'm assuming that because I could set it in the T2i, you can do it on the newer model as well). the nice thing about that is that your shutter won't wait for the autofocus to confirm before it releases, if you take your thumb off the button. I've found it much easier to handle bursts when you have plenty of light (most paintball) and can stop down enough to control DoF.

spend an afternoon playing with the jpg settings in the camera. if you can setup the camera to do the 'heavy lifting' for processing, it saves you literally hours of extra work on the back side. tweaking some of the picture mode presets (bump up sharpness, maybe bump up saturation a tad, for example) really make the SOC jpgs 'pop'. being able to get that to work for you will also effectively overcome a basic issue with SD cards. They are really not up to the demand your asking for.

and finally, go shopping for a used 7D. the prices on them are coming down all the time. put some money back from selling shots to get that replacement body.




  
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