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Thread started 09 Sep 2013 (Monday) 04:58
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Disappointed :(

 
cdifoto
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Sep 09, 2013 18:34 |  #46

abhphotography wrote in post #16280966 (external link)
I do. I shoot everything in RAW, but even if i change it and shoot in S3, it will still only let me do 6. :( It's rather weird but its probably me, I've goofed something I'm sure.

That's because your shutter and mirror are not mechanically engineered to crack more than 6 times in a second. It has nothing to do with the speed of your memory cards or what file format you shoot.


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Sep 09, 2013 18:40 |  #47

cdifoto wrote in post #16283038 (external link)
That's because your shutter and mirror are not mechanically engineered to crack more than 6 times in a second. It has nothing to do with the speed of your memory cards or what file format you shoot.

No he is saying that he can't do more than 6 frames in a row before buffer is full. I am still not convinced he has tried just JPEG mode yet. I think RAW is still being shot when he tries.


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paintcheck
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Sep 09, 2013 18:43 |  #48

Raylon wrote in post #16283058 (external link)
No he is saying that he can't do more than 6 frames in a row before buffer is full. I am still not convinced he has tried just JPEG mode yet. I think RAW is still being shot when he tries.

Raylon,

I followed the suggestions of someone below and low level formatted my cards and definitely ensured that my camera was shooting the L-Fine settings instead of RAW. It took more than 6 shots in a burst on the L-Fine, matter of fact it took 12! However when I do switch to RAW I'm limited to just 6 like before. All of the other picture quality settings allow me to shoot much more than 6 in burst mode unlike before.

And to be safe, I reset the camera back to factory just as a precaution. All seems to be fairly well now.


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Sep 09, 2013 18:54 |  #49

Keyan wrote in post #16282870 (external link)
The 18-55 is not a quiet focusing lens....it is still focusing, correct?

Your burst counts are probably about right for a T5i. See the specs here:
http://www.usa.canon.c​om …is_stm_kit#Spec​ifications (external link)

Under the drive system section about half way down.

The STM version is deadly silent and is very cool! The 55-250 is being made as an STM too, should be available in Oct.


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Sep 09, 2013 19:17 |  #50

TeamSpeed wrote in post #16283088 (external link)
The STM version is deadly silent and is very cool! The 55-250 is being made as an STM too, should be available in Oct.

I know, I actually kind of want one, but his gear list doesn't show the STM.


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Sep 10, 2013 02:18 as a reply to  @ Keyan's post |  #51

There seems to be many misconceptions accumulated in this thread.

First, the biggest burst depth killer is the High ISO noise reduction setting. In older cameras, setting it ON reduces the burst length significantly. In newer cameras, the settings off, low and standard are OK, but setting it to high again kills burst rate. This can be seen already on the burst depth prediction display the camera has.

Second, the speed of the memory card doesn't affect burst depth very much, especially not when shooting RAW. Most Canon EOS cameras don't write to the card and shoot RAW simultaneously. But the speed of the card has a significant impact on how long time it takes the camera to recover from a burst, and be ready for the next one.
When shooting jpeg only, card writing and shooting is usually done concurrently, thus a fast and well working card improves the burst length to some extent (see the burst length data below).

Third, burst depth is never harmed by using a long exposure time. On the contrary, if you are shooting jpegs, it gives the camera time to write to the card while the action has stopped waiting for the exposure to end. But frame rate (images per second) is of course very sensitive to the shutter speed. You usually need at least as short as 1/500 s for the camera to run without the frame rate being impaired by the time it takes to expose the sensor.

Fourth, all other settings will not impair burst length. But using Servo AF on tricky subjects will impair frame rate, since there will be a little longer delay between each shot, whilst the camera is fighting to figure out how to focus. Somewhere above it was said that simpler cameras don't have any focus priority setting, but that's also wrong. Focus priority is the only setting they have (now I'm talking about the focus priority setting which was available until the introduction of the 1DX - that camera is different). What these cameras lack is the release priority. Thus they always allow the camera to make a few repeated attempts to figure out focus, prior to taking the picture.

Fifth, one of the primary differences between the higher rank cameras and a model like the 700D is the buffer memory size. Cheaper cameras simply don't have the memory to keep running like the more expensive ones.
Here's the burst data for the 700D:

Maximum Burst
Based on 8GB memory Card:
JPEG Large/Fine: Approx. 22 Shots
RAW: Approx. 6 Shots
RAW+JPEG Large/Fine: 3 Shots
Based on 8GB UHS-I memory card:
JPEG Large/Fine: Approx. 30 Shots
RAW: Approx. 6 Shots
RAW + JPEG Large/Fine: 3 Shots

You can also see that having a faster card improves the situation when shooting jpegs, but only for jpegs.

Now let's look at the same specification for the 7D (which fires eight frames per second, thus produces quite a bit more data each second):

Maximum Burst
JPEG (Large/Fine): approx. 110*/approx. 130**
RAW: approx. 23*/approx. 25**
RAW+JPEG (Large/Fine): approx. 17*/approx. 17**

The figures marked with ** are for a faster card (UDMA 7). Not even dual Digic 4 processors make much of a difference between different card performance when using RAW, but it's obvious that the capacity for shooting long series here is much higher.


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Sep 10, 2013 05:00 |  #52

apersson850 wrote in post #16284017 (external link)
There seems to be many misconceptions accumulated in this thread.

First, the biggest burst depth killer is the High ISO noise reduction setting. In older cameras, setting it ON reduces the burst length significantly. In newer cameras, the settings off, low and standard are OK, but setting it to high again kills burst rate. This can be seen already on the burst depth prediction display the camera has.

Second, the speed of the memory card doesn't affect burst depth very much, especially not when shooting RAW. Most Canon EOS cameras don't write to the card and shoot RAW simultaneously. But the speed of the card has a significant impact on how long time it takes the camera to recover from a burst, and be ready for the next one.
When shooting jpeg only, card writing and shooting is usually done concurrently, thus a fast and well working card improves the burst length.

Third, burst depth is never harmed by using a long exposure time. On the contrary, if you are shooting jpegs, it gives the camera time to write to the card while the action has stopped waiting for the exposure to end. But frame rate (images per second) is of course very sensitive to the shutter speed. You usually need at least as short as 1/500 s for the camera to run without the frame rate being impaired by the time it takes to expose the sensor.

Fourth, all other settings will not impair burst length. But using Servo AF on tricky subjects will impair frame rate, since there will be a little longer delay between each shot, whilst the camera is fighting to figure out how to focus. Somewhere above it was said that simpler cameras don't have any focus priority setting, but that's also wrong. Focus priority is the only setting they have (now I'm talking about the focus priority setting which was available until the introduction of the 1DX - that camera is different). What these cameras lack is the release priority. Thus they always allow the camera to make a few repeated attempts to figure out focus, prior to taking the picture.

Fifth, one of the primary differences between the higher rank cameras and a model like the 700D is the buffer memory size. Cheaper cameras simply don't have the memory to keep running like the more expensive ones.
Here's the burst data for the 700D:

You can also see that having a faster card improves the situation when shooting jpegs, but only for jpegs.

Now let's look at the same specification for the 7D (which fires eight frames per second, thus produces quite a bit more data each second):
The figures marked with ** are for a faster card (UDMA 7). Not even dual Digic 4 processors make much of a difference between different card performance when using RAW, but it's obvious that the capacity for shooting long series here is much higher.

Interesting read. Thanks a lot.


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Sep 10, 2013 05:03 |  #53

Frodge wrote in post #16284161 (external link)
Interesting read. Thanks a lot.

I thought the same thing!


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Sep 10, 2013 05:20 |  #54

If you don't care about shooting in jpeg, buy a 1100D (T3), because you can shoot 830 jpegs in a row. Better than the 7D lol.


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Sep 10, 2013 06:14 |  #55

apersson850 wrote in post #16284017 (external link)
There seems to be many misconceptions accumulated in this thread.

Too true, and I'm so glad you got in here to put some of them right. I was thinking I'd have to go through and correct all the myths.

One that I think you missed was the suggestion that fast lenses (f1.4) would help. When describing lenses as having a fast aperture all it means is that it collects a lot of light. It has no bearing at all on how many photos the camera can take. Indeed, because fast lenses have big, heavy, lumps of glass at the front, they are often the most sluggish lenses for focusing - so they may have the opposite effect (in very, very rare situations).


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Sep 10, 2013 06:39 as a reply to  @ hollis_f's post |  #56

I didn't see that part. Long thread.
It's of course true that a fast lens doesn't help burst length. On the contrary, if anything, since what a fast lens can help with is frame rate. If it's too dark to maintain 1/500 s or shorter, then a fast lens may be necessary to keep the frame rate up. But high frame rate will of course imply that you run out of buffer space in shorter time, even if not in fewer frames, if you shoot RAW. But if you shoot jpeg, a setting of, say, 1/30 s may cause quite a dramatic change in how many jpegs you can shoot in a sequence. Somewhere you have break even for a certain camera, where long exposure times reduce frame rate to such an extent that the camera will never fill the buffer.
Unfortunately, such exposure times are usually not action-friendly.

I added some other opinions in a private message to the OP, but I can just as well copy them to this thread too.

Coming back to your issue, I dare say two things: First, the only way to do what you want with your camera, and actually with most of them, is to shoot jpeg only.
Second, jpeg output is good enough to be fully useful in most situations. You did mention changing light and such stuff, but that can usually be handled pretty well.

AWB does almost all the time outdoors give reasonable color rendering of your photos.

If automatic exposure with evaluative metering doesn't work well during changing conditions, then try center weighted average metering. It's averaging enough of the scene not to be easily fooled by some bright or dark spots, even if they happen to show up under the active AF point.
If exposure is still a problem, try the automated Highlight tone priority if you have problems with blown highlights or the Automatic Light Optimizer if you have general contrast/exposure issues.

If you use Servo AF and have issues with delays due to that, you can do two things: Use back button focusing (allows you to cancel tracking if you realize it will be difficult for the camera) and set lens drive when AF is impossible to off. The second setting (I think it's on a 700D too) prevents the camera from driving your lens to closest distance and all the way back if you loose tracking. The drawback is that if your lens is way off when you start AF, it will not even attempt to find focus, but you have to set it in the ballpark manually. Which is difficult with lenses not having USM or STM focus drive motors.


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Sep 10, 2013 11:09 |  #57

For one thing you never told what type of camera you are using? I am guessing Rebel t5i, the 7d would have been a better choice for what you were looking for.


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Sep 10, 2013 15:07 as a reply to  @ N2bnfunn's post |  #58

I have a 60d and from what I read some said it only gets 6 raw pics.

I just put mine in raw mode ai servo and burst mode chasing cars at 60mph and got all 16 busrts.

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Sep 10, 2013 15:10 |  #59

N2bnfunn wrote in post #16284891 (external link)
For one thing you never told what type of camera you are using?

Oh yes he did.

...it appears my t5i is just blah...

It seems reasonable that you could shoot more RAW images in a sequence with a 60D. This is a capability Canon usually expands upon when going up the food chain.


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Sep 10, 2013 17:13 as a reply to  @ apersson850's post |  #60

Yeah my mistake on the instant shutter release, I did some testing to verify and the 60D will reasonably try to get focus before firing when fully depressed and during an AI servo burst, which of course slows down the rate as it attempts focus.

At least my suggestion of a low level format actually seemed to fix the issue :)


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