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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 21 Aug 2007 (Tuesday) 15:32
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Diffusion Panel How To???

 
TMR ­ Design
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Aug 25, 2007 13:40 as a reply to  @ post 3794824 |  #31

Hey redbutt,

Glad to see more people using panels. I've heard good things about the Calumet panels and your method of hanging them is simple and inexpensive. I like it.

With very large panels another great and inexpensive solution is using 2 Super Clamps (get the Impact rather than the Bogen because they're exactly the same and $5 cheaper) and 2 light stands. Just mount the Super Clamps on the 1/4"-20 thread on the top stud of a lightstand and tighten the Super Clamp to the vertical poles of the frame. Then just lift to the desired height. This does require 2 people to lift into place and tighten so redbutt's method is a great solution with meduim to large panels because it can be setup and adjusted with one person.


Robert
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DwightMcCann
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Aug 25, 2007 14:02 |  #32

TMR Design wrote in post #3794734 (external link)
Hi Dwight,

Autopole's are wonderful devices but not inexpensive by any means. Most of the people making DIY diffusion panels aren't going to want to spend the cash on even the lesser expensive AutoPole 2. At that point it's already defeating the purpose of the DIY and you might as well buy one of the manufactured frames and panels at that cost.

Jo-Ann's Fabric and Craft Store (external link) is known for having the Sports Ripstop. I just located a Jo-Anns right near me and they have both the black and white sports ripstop for $6.99 per yard, 60 inches wide. There are 12 yards to a roll and they generally have it in stock.

I understand about the inexpensiveness of DIY ... I have an unlimited budget (sorta') but I need things that work in my very small studio which is why I am interested. I have some pictures in a thread somewhere on POTN and as I finally pull things together will post more.

redbutt wrote in post #3794824 (external link)
I've been using the panels that Calumet sells for 2 years now. I like them alot. I just use them by putting an A clamp on top of a light stand and hanging the frame from the clamp.

https://photography-on-the.net …mentid=50422&d=​1137446526


I'll check them out!


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TMR ­ Design
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Aug 25, 2007 14:21 as a reply to  @ DwightMcCann's post |  #33

Hi Dwight,

If the budget doesn't really have restraints then certainly AutoPoles are cool. If your panel doesn't move often then they're a good idea for the panels but if you move the panel often of have to travel with it you can't count on having a ceiling to secure to, and you also have to consider homes or places that it just wouldn't be right to crank the Autopoles to the ceiling. Bogen does make the AutoPole system so it can be used with light stands for just such situations. Personally I like the ides of having solid vertical support rather than the legs that are sold for panels like the Calumet. More people seem to use AutoPoles for background support systems or a light that is fixed in place.


Robert
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mjordan
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Aug 25, 2007 16:32 |  #34

If you want to shop around on the internet for nylon (and other) type material, here are a couple of links:

http://www.seattlefabr​ics.com/ (external link)

http://www.chicagocanv​as.com/ (external link)

http://www.dharmatradi​ng.com/html/eng/1137-AA.shtml (external link)

Robert, I've bought some wide lengths of velcro for another project I never got around to doing and I figure that stuff will be great for this. It's got some good griping power and will be easy to sew on... which will be easy to do with all the fancy machines my wife has in her sewing room. :D

Mike


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TaggM
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Jun 08, 2010 03:46 |  #35

mkuriger wrote in post #3794328 (external link)
hey great thread! I built a very simple version of this by simply using a white shower curtain suspended between 2 light stands and secured with small bungee cords. It works amazingly well!

Sorta what I did. Used a shower-curtain rod tied onto a rolling garment stand, instead of light stands. It's a little short, but that can be fixed if needed with boxes.

Dropped the power down to 1/4 on the 580EX II there before the hot-spots finally went away. The hot-spots from the upper right are from a 15" x 15" soft box about 3' away with another 580EX II powered down to 1/8. Definitely need to power both down even more.


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I have Canon gear. SX1 IS, two 7D bodies and mostly f/2.8 lenses 10mm-200mm, doubler, and 17/4 TSE, some 580EX IIs. Additional portable lighting gear, and tripod with 360 pano mount. Want two 7D II bodies.

  
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MR ­ do ­ little
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Jun 08, 2010 04:22 |  #36
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Flashback!!


Regards
Paul L.

  
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TMR ­ Design
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Jun 08, 2010 08:05 |  #37

MR do little wrote in post #10322933 (external link)
Flashback!!

Hi Paul.

Yeah, it's like taking a ride on the way=back machine.... lolol

Seriously though, it's great to see others doing DIY's and exploring diffusion panels and reflective materials.


Robert
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DwightMcCann
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Jun 08, 2010 08:41 |  #38

Only a few years!


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Jun 08, 2010 09:09 |  #39

This is a superb thread. The original responder has/had a real cool set up with the scrim and the black side panels. It looks like I've got some engineering and construction to do.


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Trebor1415
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Sep 11, 2013 00:43 |  #40

This is a great thread. I found the pics of the setups especially helpful. Thanks guys.

Question: I'm going to build one for a still life type shot of a Thompson SMG with some props. I'm using CFL's for lighting. Just wondering on suggestions on whether a hard light or a soft light might be better and how high I should mount the lights.




  
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ZoranC
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Sep 11, 2013 00:59 |  #41

Trebor1415 wrote in post #16286967 (external link)
This is a great thread. I found the pics of the setups especially helpful. Thanks guys.

... and thanks to you now I too have found this thread :) Really nice thread, thank you everyone that contributed, starting with Rob (TMR)!




  
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umphotography
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Sep 11, 2013 06:23 as a reply to  @ ZoranC's post |  #42

Robert. Thanks for posting. While i like the idea, i still find its easier to set up a soft box. Its not as cheap that is for sure. If that white panel could be positioned 4-5"back from where its at now i think it would be really nice. That way the light would be a bit more direct and not spray all over as its set up.....I Like it.....cool...I think a recessed lip softbox would yield better results. $$$$ is the problem:lol:


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PacAce
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Sep 11, 2013 06:42 |  #43

Trebor1415 wrote in post #16286967 (external link)
This is a great thread. I found the pics of the setups especially helpful. Thanks guys.

Question: I'm going to build one for a still life type shot of a Thompson SMG with some props. I'm using CFL's for lighting. Just wondering on suggestions on whether a hard light or a soft light might be better and how high I should mount the lights.

If by "a hard light or a soft light", you are referring to the type of CFL bulb to use, it really doesn't matter. Get the one that gives you the brightest light. As for the distance from the panel to place it, that depends on how much you want to soften the light. Pulling the light back so that it fills most of the panel will give you the softest lighting. Pulling it back any further will just be wasting light. If you don't want the lighting as soft, then bring it in closer to the panel. Play with the distance until you get the right amount of softness/hardness in the lighting.


...Leo

  
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Sep 11, 2013 07:41 as a reply to  @ PacAce's post |  #44

good thread.

i'm going to write down my idea for a portable scrim/diff panel just so i can remember later, well and to share too, maybe someone can tell me if it has worked for them.

Idea is that if you are building a pvc frame for the panel, and assuming it's a simple rectangular design, cut out notches on the outside of the corner segments. These notches wouldn't need to be any larger than say 3/8 of an inch and would be cut at 45 degrees to the 90 degree outside corner.

Like this with the "|" being the angle of the cut and the ">" being the 90° angle/connector

>|

Once you have pieced together your frame, use bungee material and a small rope to make something that goes the distance around the frame and is held in place by the notches. I imagine that most of this piece can be made from "static" rope and just a couple of small pieces can be elastic bungee.

anyway, that's my idea, i originally thought i could do something like tent poles with the bungee inside the pvc, but i think it would be easier to transport if the poles were separate, it would certainly be easier to fabricate.


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mjordan
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Sep 12, 2013 00:28 |  #45

It's amazing how long some of these threads hang around and how far some people will dig back to find information they are looking for. :D And of course, you never know what google will bring up when you are searching for something totally different.

Mike


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Diffusion Panel How To???
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