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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
sigma ­ pi
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Sep 13, 2013 13:55 |  #2476

tetrode wrote in post #16293847 (external link)
Eye of the beholder, Pi. I admire your rugged good looks.

:shock:


Don't try to confuse me with the facts, my mind is already made up.
http://www.flickr.com …6850267535/in/p​hotostream (external link)

  
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mmmfotografie
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Sep 13, 2013 14:04 |  #2477

sigma pi wrote in post #16293720 (external link)
That transmitter is ugly as hell.

I don't mind and I wished it would be a bit smaller and could be positioned horizontal in the direction of the lens.




  
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tetrode
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Sep 13, 2013 14:22 |  #2478

sigma pi wrote in post #16293943 (external link)
:shock:

I believe you've misquoted me, Pi. I said:

"Eye of the beholder, Pi. I admire your ragged wood hooks."




  
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Chad ­ D
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Sep 13, 2013 16:54 |  #2479

ahhh good point :)
as long as it all goes in the bag and does not add to the bulk :) my only downside to 2nd party brackets is the weight and bulk :)
thanks :)

tetrode wrote in post #16293315 (external link)
No, they don't fold flat. No doubt, the thinking was that the diameter of the softbox speed ring is larger than the diagonal of the bracket so there wasn't much to be gained by making the metal rods foldable. I think we would disagree about that.


ChadDahlquist.com (external link) - photography site
HappyFish.com (external link) - post production services for professional photographers

  
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ZoranC
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Sep 13, 2013 23:43 |  #2480

Meddin Studios wrote in post #16292588 (external link)
I called Edward the other night ... He's been 100% for me, so I hope to keep giving him business for that kind of service.

Yes, same here.




  
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ZoranC
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Sep 13, 2013 23:47 |  #2481

CheetahStand wrote in post #16293202 (external link)
YES for studio use is ok.A very good idea from Master Dave.

Thank you both!




  
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ZoranC
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Sep 13, 2013 23:49 |  #2482

philpeterson wrote in post #16293540 (external link)
Any weight hanging off the flash risks breaking the plastic flash head. While the overall weight of the light modifier seems low, leverage comes into play. If I was to use an octa on my Quantums, I would attach it to a bracket like Cheetah's Speed Pro, never directly to the flash.

That's what I was thinking.




  
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Nikkor316
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Sep 14, 2013 12:01 as a reply to  @ post 16293720 |  #2483

Dave (tetrode), what ball heads are you using in the two photos above? I've been looking for some for flash purspose but none have held up to expectations or have a large platform. Any links? Thanks.


Matt

  
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eventsof1768
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Sep 14, 2013 17:41 |  #2484

has anyone ever used a hotshoe to bowens adapter?
http://www.ebay.com …ories&hash=item​4170f5f8d5 (external link)

id like to use it on a softbox like this
http://www.amazon.com …s9_dcbhrz_bw_g4​21_ir06_sh (external link)


instagram (external link)
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Meddin ­ Studios
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32 posts
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Sep 14, 2013 18:43 |  #2485

I haven't had much luck with Flickr since their scheduled maintenance outing yesterday, so I'm gonna go ahead and post up my very readers digest version here for those interested in HSS stuff still:

For PW's:
- TT1/TT5 can support HS or HSS sync at 1/1 power with Cheetahs and get 95-99% clean frame at 1/8000.
- Settings are "-4500 manual timing and AB400 flash head (Tx side) and 10/Slow (Rx side)"
- Select your camera under the misc tab and "reduced clipping" for maximum coverage if it counts. Otherwise choose "Highest Output" if you don't care about that small bit of extra clipping on the bottom.
- TT5 must use the P2 port for the cheetahs. Hotshoe doesn't work for HS or HSS sync.
- This results in the best overall output of any setup I've tested (Cells vs CL vs Odin vs 622s)
- Couldn't tell a difference in HS vs HSS for light loss but HSS doesn't work with PW+3's so HS is a great compromise between triggers.
- PW+3 requires HS on the TT1.
- Set TT1/+3 to a Control TL channel (anything above 16) for +3 to receive HS sync
- PW+3 are 100% clean frame but fall 1/3 to 1/4 stop short on output vs TT5

For CL-Tx:
- Set TT1 to above timing settings and place the CL-Tx in its hotshoe
- AD/CL 180/360 only need CL-Rx to trigger
- Results in 100% frame coverage at 1/8000 and only a 1/4 to 1/3 stop loss vs TT5.
- You lose the ability to use an AC3 in this setup if you're mixing with TTL lights. Set the TT1 to "Trigger Only" under second menu if you want to use a Sekonic meter to adjust manual output on TTL lights with CL-Tx on top of TT1.

For YN622:
- Set to 1/8000 and H Mode on light. Supports any power setting down to 1/8
- Significant power drop vs PW. At least 1 to 2 stops.
- 100% frame coverage
- PC sync port must be used on the trigger for HSS

For Cells II (C or II):
- Set to H Mode on flash
- Any power setting works down to 1/8
- 1/3 stop better than YN622's as Elv and others have measured
- Must be directly in camera hotshoe
- Still a stop or more slower than PW's or Odin

Overall, I'd put my money on +3's if you have a TT1. They produce a full frame in HS sync, they're small, affordable, and work in H Mode as well if you want variable power for faster recycles.

HS definitely offers the most benefits if you're ok with slower 1/1 power recycle times. The increase in output vs 622's and Cells II is pretty significant. If you need to squeeze out that extra 1/3 stop you can opt for TT5 but the gains with a Cheetah light aren't very significant.

I'll post the output test stills for comparison once I get a good layout template going in Lightroom.




  
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TropicalFlavor
Hatchling
7 posts
Joined Sep 2013
     
Sep 14, 2013 20:08 |  #2486

tetrode wrote in post #16289653 (external link)
The Quantum/Godox/Lumedyne​/Norman adapter doesn't seem to be advertised anywhere. I only knew it existed because I came across this image:

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: 403 | MIME changed to 'text/plain'


It's the DA-03 and the Amazon seller you referenced has them.

The adapter itself is quite strong. It's only about 3-1/2 or 4 inches in diameter. It seems to have been something of an afterthought on the part of the manufacturer as installation requires the removal of the standard bracket mounting plate which is held in place by three nearly microscopic screws. Swapping between the standard shoe mount flash configuration and the Quantum/Godox/Cheetah configuration requires considerable care. Lose even one of the tiny screws and you're screwed (so to speak). It isn't a procedure you'd want to perform in the field...

Hello everyone.

I'm new here but I've been reading this thread for a while now with a lot of interest which brought me recently to pull the trigger on a 360 - the GF400 as sold by Calumet (ended up costing me only about $329 for the flash: more on that in another post) - I've looked everywhere on Amazon for this DA-03 adapter but it's just impossible to find. I've got this idea on how I could mount the 360 inside a softbox (any soft box) turning it into a sort of Elinchrom Reverse Octa to create amazing soft/even light (a bit similar to what you can see HERE (external link))

- First I would need a plain metal speedring insert for my softbox to prevent light leak from the back
- I would then attach this adapter to the speedring insert using 4 double ended machine screws placed in a square pattern around the flash mount
- I would also add a 5th screw that would go through the umbrella holder of the flash to serve as an additional support because I'm worried that with heavy use the flash would come off the adapter since it's retained only using friction.

I guess the same concept could also be applied to mounting the flash inside a Buff PLM. The final assembly would make it look a bit like the on axis speedring that Buff sells with his PLM (as can be seen in the 3rd picture found HERE (external link)) except for that 5th screw through the umbrella holder. I know earlier in this thread there's an example of the 360 flash inside a PLM, but again I'm not very confident hanging the flash JUST by the umbrella holder and shooting outdoor with it.

Now could anyone tell me where I can find a plain metal speedring insert ? It's really just a plain 6" metal disc. I went to Home Depot recently to see if they would have some pre cut 6" disc but they didn't.




  
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tetrode
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Sep 14, 2013 20:32 |  #2487

TropicalFlavor wrote in post #16296800 (external link)
Hello everyone.
...
Now could anyone tell me where I can find a plain metal speedring insert ? It's really just a plain 6" metal disc. I went to Home Depot recently to see if they would have some pre cut 6" disc but they didn't.

6" diameter disks are VERY hard to come by. At least at a reasonable prices. I've sourced 6" disks in assorted thicknesses from all three of the following vendors;

http://www.sharpeprodu​cts.com …-dia-disk?productId=10899 (external link)

http://www.shopwagnerb​2c.com …SKS_RINGS_DISKS​_AL/D322-1 (external link)

Excellent but you have to by 12 and shipping's a killer:

http://www.ablekitchen​.com …minum-12-Pieces-Unit.html (external link)

I know it sounds ridiculous but, depending upon intended application, the pizza separators are ideal. I haven't found a source that will sell the 6" disks individually but 7" and larger sizes are readily available. The larger diameter disks are easily cut down to size on a bandsaw. I've used the pizza separators to make a variety reverse adapters of the type you're planning:

IMAGE: http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1272/4672987408_4a55cbd1f0_o.jpg

Regarding the DA-03 adapter: I was able to purchase mine from Amazon seller Legio Aerium. The part isn't listed on the site but it is available.



  
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TropicalFlavor
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Sep 14, 2013 20:40 |  #2488

Meddin Studios wrote in post #16291319 (external link)
Do they sell the 360 model as a package deal? I went on and could only find the battery pack and head separate which would run you over $1000 after you add the Tx and Rx. The Cheetah kit is $780 all in.

I recently purchased a 360 (or GF400 as Calumet calls it) and it ended up costing me only $329. How's that possible? Read on.

Calumet has both the flashes as kits which can be found HERE (external link). Their CL-360 kit is listed for the same price as with Edward's but their CL-180 kit costs more.

However...

One secret on the Calumet website which is not mentioned/advertised anywhere is that if you ADD THE INDIVIDUAL FLASHES TO YOUR CART, the CL-360 only cost $429 and the CL-180 only cost $389. Unfortunately their battery is $349 (much more than Edward's).

So since they were running a promotion recently (save $100 on every $500 purchase + Free 2nd day shipping) that pushed me to pull the trigger on this flash which, just like everyone else on this forum, I find really impressive. I'm really in love with it.

So now my kit consists of the Calumet branded CL-360 and the Cheetah branded battery pack. #bestofbothworlds

I also got a few accessories: CL-TX & RX (trigger - receiver kit) - umbrella reflector - Nikon cable for the battery pack - Protection Cap for the Light bulb - 5m Extension cable - Battery Hook - Y splitter cable (or 2 to 1 cable) and in the end I only spent about $743 for all those goodies (I'm contemplating the idea of adding 2 more 360 in the future - maybe by the end of the year).




  
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TropicalFlavor
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7 posts
Joined Sep 2013
     
Sep 14, 2013 20:48 |  #2489

tetrode wrote in post #16296839 (external link)
6" diameter disks are VERY hard to come by. At least at a reasonable prices. I've sourced 6" disks in assorted thicknesses from all three of the following vendors;

http://www.sharpeprodu​cts.com …-dia-disk?productId=10899 (external link)

http://www.shopwagnerb​2c.com …SKS_RINGS_DISKS​_AL/D322-1 (external link)

Excellent but you have to by 12 and shipping's a killer:

http://www.ablekitchen​.com …minum-12-Pieces-Unit.html (external link)

I know it sounds ridiculous but, depending upon intended application, the pizza separators are ideal. I haven't found a source that will sell the 6" disks individually but 7" and larger sizes are readily available. The larger diameter disks are easily cut down to size on a bandsaw. I've used the pizza separators to make a variety reverse adapters of the type you're planning:

QUOTED IMAGE

Regarding the DA-03 adapter: I was able to purchase mine from Amazon seller Legio Aerium. The part isn't listed on the site but it is available.


Thank you very much for the quick response. That thing you've got here is a BEAUTY. You've got me all excited now by the possibilities...

By the way, what screws are you using on this picture (overall size and length) and which speedring is it mounted on?




  
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ZoranC
Senior Member
285 posts
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Joined Nov 2008
Location: Los Angeles
     
Sep 14, 2013 21:02 |  #2490

Meddin Studios wrote in post #16296673 (external link)
I haven't had much luck with Flickr since their scheduled maintenance outing yesterday, so I'm gonna go ahead and post up my very readers digest version here for those interested in HSS stuff still:

For PW's:
- TT1/TT5 can support HS or HSS sync at 1/1 power with Cheetahs and get 95-99% clean frame at 1/8000.
- Settings are "-4500 manual timing and AB400 flash head (Tx side) and 10/Slow (Rx side)"
- Select your camera under the misc tab and "reduced clipping" for maximum coverage if it counts. Otherwise choose "Highest Output" if you don't care about that small bit of extra clipping on the bottom.
- TT5 must use the P2 port for the cheetahs. Hotshoe doesn't work for HS or HSS sync.
- This results in the best overall output of any setup I've tested (Cells vs CL vs Odin vs 622s)
- Couldn't tell a difference in HS vs HSS for light loss but HSS doesn't work with PW+3's so HS is a great compromise between triggers.
- PW+3 requires HS on the TT1.
- Set TT1/+3 to a Control TL channel (anything above 16) for +3 to receive HS sync
- PW+3 are 100% clean frame but fall 1/3 to 1/4 stop short on output vs TT5

For CL-Tx:
- Set TT1 to above timing settings and place the CL-Tx in its hotshoe
- AD/CL 180/360 only need CL-Rx to trigger
- Results in 100% frame coverage at 1/8000 and only a 1/4 to 1/3 stop loss vs TT5.
- You lose the ability to use an AC3 in this setup if you're mixing with TTL lights. Set the TT1 to "Trigger Only" under second menu if you want to use a Sekonic meter to adjust manual output on TTL lights with CL-Tx on top of TT1.

For YN622:
- Set to 1/8000 and H Mode on light. Supports any power setting down to 1/8
- Significant power drop vs PW. At least 1 to 2 stops.
- 100% frame coverage
- PC sync port must be used on the trigger for HSS

For Cells II (C or II):
- Set to H Mode on flash
- Any power setting works down to 1/8
- 1/3 stop better than YN622's as Elv and others have measured
- Must be directly in camera hotshoe
- Still a stop or more slower than PW's or Odin

Overall, I'd put my money on +3's if you have a TT1. They produce a full frame in HS sync, they're small, affordable, and work in H Mode as well if you want variable power for faster recycles.

HS definitely offers the most benefits if you're ok with slower 1/1 power recycle times. The increase in output vs 622's and Cells II is pretty significant. If you need to squeeze out that extra 1/3 stop you can opt for TT5 but the gains with a Cheetah light aren't very significant.

I'll post the output test stills for comparison once I get a good layout template going in Lightroom.

Thank you a ton!




  
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