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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing 
Thread started 26 Sep 2013 (Thursday) 19:59
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White edges around subjects

 
Pagman
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Sep 26, 2013 19:59 |  #1

Hi, how can I remove the white edges(halos)? around the subjects in pp when zoomed in to do my pp work, I have tried de-fringe and ca adjustment but nothing is cleaning this up in LR3.

P.


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Dan ­ Marchant
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Sep 26, 2013 21:39 |  #2

It will depend on what is causing it. Can you post an example picture and also list what you do by way of PP.


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tonylong
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Sep 26, 2013 22:32 |  #3

It looks like the OP is just using LR3 (doesn't mention an image editor)...

To the OP, you may want to look at an editor such as Photoshop Elements to go along with Ligtroom -- some things are best done with the editor.

As far as using LR3, you may be "stuck" with a local adjustment brush, set to either lowering the exposure or to "Burn", then maybe with the opacity turned down lightly going over those haloes?


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tzalman
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Sep 27, 2013 04:23 |  #4

Halos can be caused by several things; most usually excessive sharpening, but it could also be a heavy hand on the Clarity (in LR 4/5 the Clarity function has been revamped to cause less haloing.) I have also seen halos from the HSL adjustments where the auto-masking between highly contrasting colors has been less than perfect, although not a white halo there. The best cure is prevention - finding what the cause is and backing off that edit, perhaps instead applying it locally with a very soft brush so that at the problematic edge the effect is well feathered and thus reduced.


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Pagman
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Sep 27, 2013 15:39 |  #5

Thanks for the replies people, my main problem is/has been dealing with older pics already with pp work done on them, especialy those that have had incorrect sharpening done on them, I know I can get rid of the halo edging with a clone tall, brushing over the light edges but this is so so time consumming and boring, I wondered if there was a better quicker way?


P.


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Rimmer
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Sep 27, 2013 16:56 as a reply to  @ Pagman's post |  #6

Here's a trick I learned on POTN. You will need Photoshop or Elements to do it. Since it's easier to do than to explain, I'm attaching a sketch. Note that this assumes a darker object on a lighter background.

Use the Eyedropper to sample the background near the subject that has the halo. Switch to the Brush and set the blend mode to Darken. Brush over the halo. You may want to lower brush opacity and use multiple strokes depending on the particular situation, and if the background varies you will need to resample as you go along. Otherwise, it's simple and fast.

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Sep 27, 2013 19:09 |  #7

Rimmer wrote in post #16329972 (external link)
Here's a trick I learned on POTN. You will need Photoshop or Elements to do it. Since it's easier to do than to explain, I'm attaching a sketch. Note that this assumes a darker object on a lighter background.

Use the Eyedropper to sample the background near the subject that has the halo. Switch to the Brush and set the blend mode to Darken. Brush over the halo. You may want to lower brush opacity and use multiple strokes depending on the particular situation, and if the background varies you will need to resample as you go along. Otherwise, it's simple and fast.

-----

Great and easy tip.

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Pagman
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Sep 27, 2013 20:17 |  #8

That is a great bit of advice, what happens where there is a large area that needs this kind of work, lets say alot of skyline and trees and branches in a landscape picture that has been over sharpened, but is worth keeping?


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Rimmer
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Sep 28, 2013 07:36 |  #9

Pagman wrote in post #16330292 (external link)
That is a great bit of advice, what happens where there is a large area that needs this kind of work, lets say alot of skyline and trees and branches in a landscape picture that has been over sharpened, but is worth keeping?
P.

Keep one finger on the "I" key and one on the "B" key. Sample, brush, sample, brush, sample, brush, etc. Get the rhythm down and it will go pretty fast.

I should have mentioned -- you can also do your brushing on a new layer set to Darken blend mode with a brush set to Normal. Easier to correct mistakes, but if there are a lot of areas to sample you have to do a lot of switching between layers as you sample and then brush.


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Pagman
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Sep 28, 2013 11:30 |  #10

Can this be done in LR3 as I have this and not long paid for it, so im not wanting to purchase another.


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tzalman
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Sep 28, 2013 11:48 |  #11

Pagman wrote in post #16331352 (external link)
Can this be done in LR3 as I have this and not long paid for it, so im not wanting to purchase another.

P.

If the originals were Raws, it might be easier to re-edit them from the beginning.


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Pagman
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Sep 28, 2013 11:58 |  #12

tzalman wrote in post #16331381 (external link)
If the originals were Raws, it might be easier to re-edit them from the beginning.

I thought of that aswel might be worth me digging out my discs with my odd 3000 raw files and re-doing, I have found reducing the clarity on LR3 quite good at reducing the halos abit seems to help the sharpening abit.

P.


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tonylong
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Sep 28, 2013 14:27 |  #13

Pagman wrote in post #16331393 (external link)
I thought of that aswel might be worth me digging out my discs with my odd 3000 raw files and re-doing, I have found reducing the clarity on LR3 quite good at reducing the halos abit seems to help the sharpening abit.

P.

Ah, so you have Raw files! That would have helped to clear things up! Going back to the Raw file would quickly clarify if the haloes were caused by over-sharpening or over-whatever, and then would simplify the process of "fixing" things!

It should be said, though, that if you update your Lightroom to LR5 (or alternatively LR4) that the newer "Process Version" will give you more latitude when it comes to things like highlight and shadow adjustments, Clarity and, I believe, sharpening as well. With the newer PV, I find myself going "lighter" with the Sharpening, for instance.

Yes, there is a cost to upgrading, but the improvements can make a real difference! With LR5 out you may be able to find a good "deal" with the LR4 upgrade!


Tony
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Pagman
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Sep 28, 2013 15:37 |  #14

I had LR5 on the trial period and managed to do quite alot of files in it, mind you I wasnt as learned about LR skills then as I am now - like using the Alt key to show amount of sharpening being applied and as tzalman pointed out - reducing clarity to reduce halo-ing(this does help im finding).


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tonylong
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Sep 28, 2013 17:23 |  #15

Pagman wrote in post #16331757 (external link)
I had LR5 on the trial period and managed to do quite alot of files in it, mind you I wasnt as learned about LR skills then as I am now - like using the Alt key to show amount of sharpening being applied and as tzalman pointed out - reducing clarity to reduce halo-ing(this does help im finding).
P.

Well, good (regarding reducing the Clarity)!

By the way, I'm not one to "push" spending your money on non-essential things (I myself certainly can't), so it's up to each of us to "prioritize"...but in the list of priorities, you may want to budget for an LR upgrade, at least to LR4!


Tony
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Wildlife project pics here (external link), Biking Photog shoots here (external link), "Suburbia" project here (external link)! Mount St. Helens, Mount Hood pics here (external link)

  
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