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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre General Photography Talk 
Thread started 16 Sep 2013 (Monday) 20:07
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Anyone Into Medium Format? Bought a Mamiya

 
TooManyShots
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Sep 23, 2013 15:00 |  #31
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BrianS wrote in post #16318954 (external link)
Nice shots, do you scan from negative or print and then scan?


Scanned them from the negatives....using Canon 9000f. Oh, the scanning part? That's a whole another thread...hehehe


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DutchinCLE
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Sep 23, 2013 15:23 |  #32

maybe a stupid and slightly off topic question. Do you develop the film yourself, or are there outside labs who do this, like 35mm film?

Dutch


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TooManyShots
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Sep 23, 2013 15:44 |  #33
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DutchinCLE wrote in post #16319145 (external link)
maybe a stupid and slightly off topic question. Do you develop the film yourself, or are there outside labs who do this, like 35mm film?

Dutch


I know few online places that would handle medium format development. You can even develop your own color negatives and I don't see why one would even outsource the job. C41 development is probably the easiest since the zone system does not really apply to it. Regardless how you expose the shots, the development time is always 3m30s. The chemical is cheap, around $20 to $30. They can last a year without much issues with color shifting. I am still using my first batch of C41 chemicals after 7 months. BW development is more work and probably more fun to do. :)


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Colorado ­ CJ
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Sep 24, 2013 22:29 |  #34

Well I just finished developing my first roll of film ever! It is also the first roll of film out of the Mamiya RB67. The film is hanging up to dry right now.

I am hoping to get an enlarger in a few days, so I can try my had at printing as well. This could become a serious addiction :cool:

For those interested, the film is 120 roll film Delta 100. I developed it in Xtol 1:1 and fixed it using TF-4

IMAGE: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3834/9927039563_25bd79b2f5_o.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/55229792@N03/9​927039563/  (external link)
First-6x7-Roll-Developed (external link) by Colorado CJ (external link), on Flickr

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DocFrankenstein
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Sep 24, 2013 22:35 |  #35

Looks pretty good.


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BrianS
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Sep 25, 2013 01:14 |  #36

Colorado CJ wrote in post #16323209 (external link)
Well I just finished developing my first roll of film ever! It is also the first roll of film out of the Mamiya RB67. The film is hanging up to dry right now.

I am hoping to get an enlarger in a few days, so I can try my had at printing as well. This could become a serious addiction :cool:

For those interested, the film is 120 roll film Delta 100. I developed it in Xtol 1:1 and fixed it using TF-4

Nice, where did you find instructions on how to do this? I have a roll of 35mm b&w in the fridge that I could try it with.


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Sep 30, 2013 22:40 |  #37

BrianS wrote in post #16323439 (external link)
Nice, where did you find instructions on how to do this? I have a roll of 35mm b&w in the fridge that I could try it with.

I watched a few youtube videos and done some reading over at Apug.org. It is very easy to do and a lot of fun. Can't believe I waited this long to get into film.


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Colorado ­ CJ
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Sep 30, 2013 22:40 |  #38

This photo is from my first roll shot through my new Mamiya RB67 medium format camera. It is shot in Delta 100 and developed using Xtol 1:1.

To digitize this photo, I shot the negative using a lightbox and my Nikon D600 with a 50mm F4 macro lens. It is stitched from 12 separate images making the native (cropped) image 127 megapixels, or roughly 40" x 50".

Using a DSLR with a good macro lens and a light box, you get better images at much larger scales than you do with a high dollar drum scanner.

Can't wait to get more processed!

http://farm3.staticfli​ckr.com …29888646_89cc98​11ee_o.jpg (external link)

The above was my first go at it and I am using a jerry rigged setup. I don't have a real light box yet, so I am using my tablet, with a piece of plate glass as the light box. Seems to work well, but probably isn't near as good as the real thing since the light is wrong.

Here's my setup. I have a longer lens hood screwed onto a Maro-Takumar 50mm F4 lens and I focus using live view at 100%. So far, it is working incredibly well.

IMAGE: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3769/10030908384_a857e00505_o.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …55229792@N03/10​030908384/  (external link)
Digitizing-Medium-Format-Negatives (external link) by Colorado CJ (external link), on Flickr

And one more from my first roll on the RB67

http://farm6.staticfli​ckr.com …30969516_92f407​7fb9_o.jpg (external link)

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Bob_A
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Sep 30, 2013 23:06 |  #39

BrianS wrote in post #16323439 (external link)
Nice, where did you find instructions on how to do this? I have a roll of 35mm b&w in the fridge that I could try it with.

Kodak's instructions in the box their film comes in gives excellent results. Just make certain everything is very clean, be really precise mixing the chemicals, maintain the recommended development temperature and agitate exactly as per their instructions.

A few tips:

- If you have an old roll of film use it to practice loading your tank reel in the dark until you can repeatably do it with no issues. A rookie mistake is to mis-thread the film such that there are areas where the emulsion touches nearby film (those areas will not get developed).

- I use an old bottle opener to pop the cassette open with.

- Make sure you have a pair of scissors handy to cut the film from the 35mm spool once you reach the end.

- At the start of agitation rap the development tank on the table about three times to dislodge any air bubbles.

- If you have a cheap tank the lid may leak a tiny bit during agitation. Makes less mess if you agitate over a sink or a print tray.

- Pay attention to all the steps, not just developer since proper stop bath, fixing, "hypo" clearing and washing are critical for permanence.

- If you have hard water products like Photo-Flo 200 (one part Photo-Flo to 200 parts water) will help ensure you have no water spots or streaks on the negatives.


Kodak has excellent publications ( http://www.kodak.com …pq-path=13318/13629/14024 (external link) ):

Choosing a developer (yes, there are differences): http://www.kodak.com …cting.jhtml?pq-path=14053 (external link)

Technical Publications: http://www.kodak.com …icals.jhtml?pq-path=14330 (external link) which have step by step development instructions (see the T-Max one).


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Colorado ­ CJ
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Oct 04, 2013 23:26 |  #40

Here's another couple photos from the Mamiya RB67. I found using my NEX 5N and the same lens for digitizing a little simpler because of the lighter weight and better live view (very nice focus peaking feature).

I am getting a better hang of digitizing using the macro/stitching method. The full size images (~40" x 50") look amazing with all the detail!

http://farm3.staticfli​ckr.com …93429485_d61527​26e8_o.jpg (external link)

http://farm3.staticfli​ckr.com …94159824_71d2c0​29e6_o.jpg (external link)


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protege
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Oct 04, 2013 23:47 |  #41

Waiting on an order from KEH. Got stuck in customs thanks to FedEx. Hassy H3D39 kit. Here's hoping everything works. 8)




  
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maverick75
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Oct 05, 2013 00:08 |  #42

I tried MF a while back and loved it, got a Yashica A for $50 off ebay.

T-max 400, developed in coffee.

Caffenol Delta STD recipe, for 15 minutes. Fixed with sodium thiosulfate from the local pool supply store.

This was my first ever roll of film that I shot/developed myself. Also first time trying Caffenol.

IMAGE: http://25.media.tumblr.com/429ee0cfa90af93f39009bf927d421f9/tumblr_msbxc2VHuN1qkqfo6o1_500.jpg

I did make a mistake of not using enough developer in my Paterson thank, that's why I had to crop the image.
Scanned with my EOS M(jpg) + PK mount Promura 28mm 2.8 Macro lens(love this lens).

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TooManyShots
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Oct 05, 2013 09:00 as a reply to  @ maverick75's post |  #43
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About using the DSLR to digitize your negatives? Try to have your negatives scanned by a pro lab first to see the difference. :) So far, I am seeing results with a bit of lack of tonal range. Clouds aren't bright and white. They are more greyish. Also, shoot something with texts and words in it to see if you can read them!!!!

Here is a shot of my taken with the Mamiya RZ67. Developed in HC110 and scanned with a Canon 9000f. You can read words on the ticket booth.

http://www.oneimagingp​hotography.com …X2/wonderwheel1​500-X2.jpg (external link)
Here is another shot taken and scanned the same way.

http://www.oneimagingp​hotography.com …2/Scan-130515-0004-X2.jpg (external link)


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Oct 05, 2013 15:42 |  #44

Folks, please note that images that are embedded directly in your posts are limited in size to 1024 x 1024 pixels. Please abide by that rule.

Thanks.


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Colorado ­ CJ
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Oct 08, 2013 17:04 |  #45

Bought some old darkroom stuff from CSU today. One piece was a contact film printer. I'm using it instead as a lightbox for digitizing my medium format negatives with my camera.

Works much better than the jerry rigged tablet I was using. Here's one of my negatives I digitized today. Ended up being 80 megapixels

Shot with my Mamiya RB67 Pro S and 90mm F3.8 lens. Delta 100 developed with Xtol at 1:1

IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5477/10161566164_8a615fa457_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …55229792@N03/10​161566164/  (external link)
22-Sept-2013---RB67-7 (external link) by Colorado CJ (external link), on Flickr

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Anyone Into Medium Format? Bought a Mamiya
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