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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos Presentation & Building Galleries 
Thread started 03 Nov 2013 (Sunday) 17:18
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ericcrazyman
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Nov 03, 2013 17:18 |  #1

I want to glue photos onto wooden serving trays and then pour a glossy finish that drys really hard on top of photo for protection. Any idea what products I can use. thanks, Eric.


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bidkev
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Nov 03, 2013 17:19 |  #2

Laminate them first?


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paintedlotus
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Nov 03, 2013 17:46 as a reply to  @ bidkev's post |  #3

Ok, I actually have a lot of experience with this. See here: http://www.flickr.com …/paintedlotus/7​942325008/ (external link) That's one of many examples of a photo glued to an LP, then epoxy resin poured over it, then painted on top of the resin.

What you want is, as I said above, 2-part epoxy resin. You can get it at the hardware store. It's about $25 for the 32-ounce kit of "Super Glaze" at Home Depot, which is mostly what I use. There's another brand called EnviroTex, which is just as good and is chemically exactly the same, but costs a little bit more. You can find both in the varnish/stain section of the store. Depending on how much coverage you need, a 32-ounce kit will be more than enough unless you're doing something really big.

Resin is a BEEYOTCH so make sure you are ready to use it! Google instructions and look at youtube videos because if you screw it up, you cannot redo it. I do *not* recommend using polyurethane resin, or the stuff where you add a few drops of catalyst/hardener to the mix. Get the 2-part epoxy, it's the best for this purpose.

The only problem is that it does yellow over time so I would spray it with UV protectant varnish. Golden makes some, called MSA, that works really well but you'll have to go to an art supply store for it. Alternatively, you can get UV-resistant epoxy resin kits but they tend to cost about double. I've seen them at both TAP Plastics and Fiberlay, if you have any of those in your area.

Make sure you have good chemical gloves, precise measuring cups, a ton of rags, wood or plastic stir sticks and a good amount of space. You'll need to let it dry for 24 hours before moving or touching it. I recommend covering it with something if you can, but if not it's no biggie. You can use either acetone (hardware store grade, not nail polish remover) for clean-up, or you can actually use Pam cooking spray. Oil breaks down resin almost as well as acetone and is, obviously, far less toxic.

You may also want to have a hair dryer, heat gun or blow torch ready to get the bubbles out after you pour it. I've used all three, the heat gun is easiest but the blow torch is fastest. I also use a respirator. Resin isn't stinky, exactly, but it's really not all that great for you.

I just poured straight onto the photographs-- they were metallic prints from Miller's-- but if you're printing from ink jet you'll probably want to get some sort of fixative spray so the photo doesn't bleed. There are a few types of this out there and I think scrapbookers use it sometimes, so it should be easy to find. I wouldn't trust a spray varnish directly onto an ink jet / giclee print without testing it first.

Feel free to PM me for more information. I use resin A LOT for my art.



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ericcrazyman
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Nov 04, 2013 06:26 |  #4

Thank you Paintedlotus. Just the info I need.


A photograph is worth a thousand words, but Photoshop can produce a thousand lies. Photo editing allowed. I need all the help I can get.

  
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