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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 18 Nov 2013 (Monday) 11:05
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High ISO issues.

 
paintcheck
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Nov 18, 2013 11:32 |  #16

MakisM1 wrote in post #16460989 (external link)
If you think the right side of the image is noisy, I don't think anybody can help...??? That was a ISO 12800 by the way...

Er, sorry, I meant Left.

Jeeze I really need to go back to bed and try to get this day started again, holy smokes.. :oops:


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MakisM1
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Nov 18, 2013 11:43 |  #17

Last but not least, the Field of View for this shot (no crop) was:

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Paulstw
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Nov 18, 2013 12:28 |  #18

If you nailed the focus then noise won't be an issue once you run some noise reduction in canons DDP software. ISO800 and above needs a bit of work, and is perfectly useable if you expose correctly and nail focus.

Lightroom has some great noise to detail compensations that can help the images. Because of this faith in software I go up to ISO6400 quite a lot if it means a faster shutter speed.

You can do some wee photoshop tricks to the images but I only do that for out of focus backgrounds on isolated subjects, like birds.

Colour noise in the shadow areas can be a pest so try to expose correctly as best you can :)




  
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Scrumhalf
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Nov 18, 2013 12:40 |  #19

Push your histogram as far to the right as you can without clipping the highlights. Use the blinkies to make sure. Pull it back in PP. That being said, there's a limit to what the T5i or 7D can do. Next step would be to get a 6D.


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Nov 18, 2013 13:31 |  #20

abhphotography wrote in post #16460927 (external link)
Ok so this is probably just a n00b question, but I'm a little discouraged.

This weekend I shot in an indoor paintball facility where the lighting was much less than optimal, which required me to use a very high ISO (6400 to be exact). Now I understand that higher ISO's create more digital noise in the pictures and what not, but what I'm bothered about is that several of the pictures are useless because of that noise.

So, I'm curious, would a better lens help with that, or is it completely a limitation of using a high ISO?:o


Consider noise reduction software. (external link)




  
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paintcheck
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Nov 18, 2013 14:31 as a reply to  @ DC Fan's post |  #21

Here is a link to one of my images

Image 1 (external link)

This one is probably the worst of them all so far (still have 500+ to sort through):

Image2 (external link)


Camera(s): 7D, (wishing for a 5dm3)
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ejenner
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Nov 18, 2013 15:29 as a reply to  @ paintcheck's post |  #22

Yes, you are going to need some decent noise reduction software for that. also you were maxed out on light (lowest f-stop, highest ISO, lowest SS you could reasonably use), so a faster lens would help especially since you could IMO use a shallower DOF.

I can get the first one looking reasonable, although still a bit dark, but I use Bibble5 + noise nija, which is not really common here and so these may have limited benefit in showing except for what should be possible.

Still ISO6400 is definitely pushing it on a crop and even more so when the shot is underexposed (not that you could have done much about that).

So I edited my comment, but the 800px 'noisy' image here already looks much better than the original after downsizing. I'm trying to figure out how to get a 100% crop within the file size limits.


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paintcheck
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Nov 18, 2013 15:33 |  #23

Thanks for the help! It looks much better compared to the original. The lighting in the place is awful to say the least, but I guess I'll be investing in some noise reduction software. *le sigh* Why do I have expensive hobbies! ha!


Camera(s): 7D, (wishing for a 5dm3)
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ejenner
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Nov 18, 2013 15:41 as a reply to  @ paintcheck's post |  #24

OK, 100% crops. Obviously you are going to lose some resolution and how much noise reduction you used depends on how you are going to view it and the trade-off between making the image look smeared and having too much noise. Both these also have the same sharpening applied (post NR for the less noisy one).


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5DIV, M6, GX1 II, Sig15mm FE, 16-35 F4,TS-E 17, TS-E 24, 35 f2 IS, M11-22, M18-150 ,24-105, T45 1.8VC, 70-200 f4 IS, 70-200 2.8 vII, Sig 85 1.4, 100L, 135L, 400DOII.
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paintcheck
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Nov 18, 2013 15:42 |  #25

ejenner wrote in post #16461648 (external link)
OK, 100% crops. Obviously you are going to lose some resolution and how much noise reduction you used depends on how you are going to view it and the trade-off between making the image look smeared and having too much noise. Both these also have the same sharpening applied (post NR for the less noisy one).

Most players will view them on the PC, and if they have them printed I'd assume it wouldn't be larger than 8x10 but maybe poster size.

I guess part of my OCD is screaming that I can see the distortion and its driving me batty lol


Camera(s): 7D, (wishing for a 5dm3)
Lenses: Tamron 70-200 f2.8 VC / Tamron 75-300 f/4-5.6 / Canon Nifty Fifty / Tamron 10-24 f/3.5-4.5
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tkbslc
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Nov 18, 2013 15:44 |  #26

You just need a faster lens. F2.8 lets you shoot at ISO 1600 instead of 6400, or if it is really dark, 6400 instead of 25600.

And the theory about overexposure works a little bit, but it also means you give up shutter speed when running against boundaries in ISO.


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M_Six
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Nov 18, 2013 16:03 |  #27

As it's been mentioned, you were really pushing the limits there with exposure. That lens on that camera with those exposure setting are always going to be a problem. (I know. I have that lens and camera body.) But, I would guess there wasn't much you could do about any of it. You did what you could with what you had. At least you froze the subject and got decent focus. The high ISO noise is responsible for the fuzziness.

Here's my shot at recovery. Might print out ok.

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paintcheck
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Nov 18, 2013 16:09 |  #28

Well I guess I'll just have to suffer with it for a bit then. Anyone have a money tree I can borrow from please? :)

Your touchup looks so much better than mine! Did you run it through photoshop or some other program? Got a link to it?


Camera(s): 7D, (wishing for a 5dm3)
Lenses: Tamron 70-200 f2.8 VC / Tamron 75-300 f/4-5.6 / Canon Nifty Fifty / Tamron 10-24 f/3.5-4.5
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tkbslc
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Nov 18, 2013 16:13 |  #29

What focal lengths are you shooting from?

There are cheaper options like Sigma 50-150 or 70-200 HSM that can be found in the $450-600 range. You don't have to jump to $2000 Canon 70-200 II. They aren't as good as Canon's best, but they are at least as good as what you are using now, only with faster AF and 2 stops aperture advantage. You don't need IS for sports, either.

If you are shooting in the mid focal lengths, a 100mm f2 would really be a lifesaver indoors or under the lights at night.


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paintcheck
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Nov 18, 2013 16:17 |  #30

tkbslc wrote in post #16461742 (external link)
What focal lengths are you shooting from?

There are cheaper options like Sigma 50-150 or 70-200 HSM that can be found in the $450-600 range. You don't have to jump to $2000 Canon 70-200 II. They aren't as good as Canon's best, but they are at least as good as what you are using now, only with faster AF and 2 stops aperture advantage. You don't need IS for sports, either.

If you are shooting in the mid focal lengths, a 100mm f2 would really be a lifesaver indoors or under the lights at night.

It really depends on where the player is vs me. Those two photos were about 15-20 ft away from me or so if I had to guess. Most of them I am shooting at full zoom 200mm as I am trying to stay out of the line of fire, yet still be able to get up close. I'd say probably on average im between 100-200mm most of the time.

I was looking at the Tamron lens'. My local store suggested them over the Canon lens. If I went with the Canon 70-200mm lens, I was going to skip the IS part of it anyways.


Camera(s): 7D, (wishing for a 5dm3)
Lenses: Tamron 70-200 f2.8 VC / Tamron 75-300 f/4-5.6 / Canon Nifty Fifty / Tamron 10-24 f/3.5-4.5
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High ISO issues.
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