just ordered my 70d! i want it now!!

TimothyMSchmidt.com wrote in post #16513404
Ups tracking just told me that it is "out for delivery" a full day ahead of schedule! Whaaaaaaaaat!?

UPS guy gets here about 5pm...whats the first thing I'll do with it? Besides sleep with it.

You going to have eye bags the following morning from being up all night starring at it!!!!

I think I might order mine today from b &h but will pay for 2 day shipping. Still will be $170 cheaper than local.

mark2009 wrote in post #16513434
I would start thinking about upgrading

Laughing my butt off!!!

Chopper Al wrote in post #16513425
Are you saying your sigma 18-200 lens no longer works? If so, what's wrong with it?

Al

then lens works fine, just the OS (optical stablizer) doesn't work. With it engaged it has something of a strike and you can see the glass move and jitter. Unsuable, especially for video.

Partly the reason why I got the 70d with the 18-135. I believe it to be an upgrade over the old 18-200. The focal length from 135 to 200 is negligible. Plus the stm plus it's 5.6 vs 6.3

I rarely use the lens, my 17-50 2.8 is what I use for 95% of my work.

I'm a 'Can't Wait' kind of guy too.. It drives me crazy having to wait for things.

I try to buy locally and support the local camera dealers if the cost isn't excessively more than the online prices. This lets me get what I want the same day that I decide I want to buy it.

Some added benefits of buying local are that my camera shop lets me handle and try out cameras and lenses that I'm thinking of buying. They take care of warranty and exchanges too, which means a very quick turn around time and no shipping charges if there are any problems.

been using the t3i for the last 2-3 years, when ever it came out.

Its actually really great and will still use it as a back up for stills and a b cam for video.

But it falls short for some of my more professional jobs. Im looking forward to the 70d

Jim_T wrote in post #16513499
I'm a 'Can't Wait' kind of guy too.. It drives me crazy having to wait for things.

I try to buy locally and support the local camera dealers if the cost isn't excessively more than the online prices. This lets me get what I want the same day that I decide I want to buy it.

Some added benefits of buying local are that my camera shop lets me handle and try out cameras and lenses that I'm thinking of buying. They take care of warranty and exchanges too, which means a very quick turn around time and no shipping charges if there are any problems.

I gave my shops a call and the big box stores too. They didn't have it in store. Plus the body only prices were $150 over what I paid for the body and 18-135lens

Had to act quick I have some bigger video work coming on the 19th and then in January

My 70D should arrive from Amazon around Thursday. I too will then have it along with the T3i ....and also an original Rebel.

TimothyMSchmidt.com wrote in post #16513512
been using the t3i for the last 2-3 years, when ever it came out.

Its actually really great and will still use it as a back up for stills and a b cam for video.

But it falls short for some of my more professional jobs. Im looking forward to the 70d

And it arrived!! Body, 18-135stm, 5batteries, and monopod.

Its awesome. That stm is very impressive when compared to my non stm lenses. Touch screen is nice but Im quicker with the button/dials. Its great in video though and for the more complex setting ie anything other than shutter, ISO, aperture, af points.

Still playing with it. Ask me questions about it if you have any I'll see if i can answer em

Hello Timothy. How do you find the 70D's AF system? How is selecting AF points? Are those outer cross points working nicely?

I too am an owner of a T3i (600D) and the outer points just kill me when I attempt to use them in really low light--especially when I'm using the 85mm f/1.8 @1.8 so using the center point to focus then recompose is out of the question.

Also, do you shoot raw? How does the raw output compare to the T3i across the ISO range?

VCY wrote in post #16515059
Hello Timothy. How do you find the 70D's AF system? How is selecting AF points? Are those outer cross points working nicely?

I too am an owner of a T3i (600D) and the outer points just kill me when I attempt to use them in really low light--especially when I'm using the 85mm f/1.8 @1.8 so using the center point to focus then recompose is out of the question.

Also, do you shoot raw? How does the raw output compare to the T3i across the ISO range?

the way I've got it is center group, which is the center 9 points or just the center 1 point. This is what I use when using the viewfinder.

With live view I put it to quick mode single, where it flips down the mirror and use the center point.

I switch between that on the flex zone single. Although I dont really like that it continusly auto focuses even when im not ready to take the shot. It is just using up the battery. But I don't really take a lot of shots with live view. So it's a non issue.

In video mode though I switch between face detection and tracking and flex zone. That's where the duel pixel af shines and where you'd actually need to be focusing the whole time.

Was that what you asking? Im still getting used to what kind of focus I like using. But on jobs im looking down the view finder 96% of the time. Unless im using high or low angles

TimothyMSchmidt.com wrote in post #16515164
the way I've got it is center group, which is the center 9 points or just the center 1 point. This is what I use when using the viewfinder.

With live view I put it to quick mode single, where it flips down the mirror and use the center point.

I switch between that on the flex zone single. Although I dont really like that it continusly auto focuses even when im not ready to take the shot. It is just using up the battery. But I don't really take a lot of shots with live view. So it's a non issue.

In video mode though I switch between face detection and tracking and flex zone. That's where the duel pixel af shines and where you'd actually need to be focusing the whole time.

Was that what you asking? Im still getting used to what kind of focus I like using. But on jobs im looking down the view finder 96% of the time. Unless im using high or low angles

Ah, interesting. In live view, I seldom (read: only used once!) use the quick mode single focus because the mirror slapping around is just too annoying for me--whenever I use live view, I just manual focus with focus peaking.

I was referring to usage when using the viewfinder cause that's how I usually use my camera but information about usage during live view mode is great!

Sometimes when I hand off my camera to someone, they get all confused about how to select a focus point when using the optical viewfinder despite my best attempts to explain to them how to use it so then I switch it to liveview mode. However, it's painful to watch them try to focus the camera in that mode cause it just takes so damn long to lock focus then shoot cause it's too busy stuttering back and forth! As per dpreview's video linked below, I'm glad to see that 70D's dual pixel sensor solves this stuttering.

http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=KEbKs6yaPjI

Back to usage via the optical viewfinder, do you any of the 8 outer AF points? If so, how do you select them? With the T3i, I had to hit the upper right button on the back of it then use the directional buttons or the main dial to select them. According to a friend of mines, one can use the directional buttons on the 60D to select an AF point without pressing a button prior to that. Does that carry over to the 70D?

Also, in low light, do those extra points around the center help achieve focusing better than just using the center point alone?

And lastly, do you shoot raw when doing stills? If so, then how does the raw compare to the T3i?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm am considering picking up a 2nd body for back up purposes and a body that improves over my T3i in terms of AF and raw image quality would be much appreciated

Btw, just checked out your website. That video was a solid edit, loved it!

TimothyMSchmidt.com wrote in post #16515164
...I switch between that on the flex zone single. Although I dont really like that it continusly auto focuses even when im not ready to take the shot. It is just using up the battery. But I don't really take a lot of shots with live view. So it's a non issue.

/delurk
Just fyi and you probably already know but you can turn of the continuous focusing in the live view menu.

That´s why i get my 70D directly from shop, even the ride to home with 70D on passenger seat was horrible because of waiting and expectations.. )

Jim_T wrote in post #16513499
I'm a 'Can't Wait' kind of guy too.. It drives me crazy having to wait for things.

palad1n wrote in post #16515778
That´s why i get my 70D directly from shop, even the ride to home with 70D on passenger seat was horrible because of waiting and expectations.. )

Try ordering from Amazon -- and choose the 7-10 day free shipping!
http://www.psychologyt​oday.com …er-delaying-gratification

VCY wrote in post #16515217
Ah, interesting. In live view, I seldom (read: only used once!) use the quick mode single focus because the mirror slapping around is just too annoying for me--whenever I use live view, I just manual focus with focus peaking.

I was referring to usage when using the viewfinder cause that's how I usually use my camera but information about usage during live view mode is great!

Sometimes when I hand off my camera to someone, they get all confused about how to select a focus point when using the optical viewfinder despite my best attempts to explain to them how to use it so then I switch it to liveview mode. However, it's painful to watch them try to focus the camera in that mode cause it just takes so damn long to lock focus then shoot cause it's too busy stuttering back and forth! As per dpreview's video linked below, I'm glad to see that 70D's dual pixel sensor solves this stuttering.

http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=KEbKs6yaPjI

Back to usage via the optical viewfinder, do you any of the 8 outer AF points? If so, how do you select them? With the T3i, I had to hit the upper right button on the back of it then use the directional buttons or the main dial to select them. According to a friend of mines, one can use the directional buttons on the 60D to select an AF point without pressing a button prior to that. Does that carry over to the 70D?

Also, in low light, do those extra points around the center help achieve focusing better than just using the center point alone?

And lastly, do you shoot raw when doing stills? If so, then how does the raw compare to the T3i?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm am considering picking up a 2nd body for back up purposes and a body that improves over my T3i in terms of AF and raw image quality would be much appreciated

Btw, just checked out your website. That video was a solid edit, loved it!

first, thank you for checking out that video. Glad you dig it! All that was done one two t3is with 17-50 2.8 and 50 1.8. Ok back to the show...

There is a button right next to the shutter you can press then either cycle through the focus options or select a focus point. You have to press that button first. Same as you'd have to press a button before selecting a focus point on the t3i

***********EDIT*******​********

You can set the Dpad in the custom functions to select the the focus points or focus groups in the view finder. Nice custom feature that I now have set

Im not sure if "center group" give better results the just center point. I dont have a photo job until tomorrow. If I can use center group and get accurate focus on the eye ball then it's great. If not then I'll use center point...

Im not seeing any difference in raw. I'll better know if there is a difference when I get my work images into lightroom. The (stills) ISOs look pretty good at 6400-8000 without cropping. Useable for most clients. If your on jobs that you dont want to have iso noise then you're using lights anyway.

Video iso noise is more pronounced. But still better then t3i. Where anything above 1600 is dirty. 70d can do 3200-6400 okay-ishly. Again most pro jobs you'll be bringing a light kit.