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Thread started 09 Dec 2013 (Monday) 04:53
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Is this a solid PC for editing? (building my own)

 
1000arms
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Dec 09, 2013 23:17 |  #16

yamatama wrote in post #16514759 (external link)
So by reading the comments I would be better off ditching the Video card and adding more RAM?

I suggest you follow the link in my prior post and read Adobe's white paper section on PhotoShop. Depending on what you do with PhotoShop, you may find a video card very useful. RAM is useful too, you could plan to add a video card later if it fits your needs.




  
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yamatama
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Dec 10, 2013 05:36 |  #17

1000arms wrote in post #16515305 (external link)
I suggest you follow the link in my prior post and read Adobe's white paper section on PhotoShop. Depending on what you do with PhotoShop, you may find a video card very useful. RAM is useful too, you could plan to add a video card later if it fits your needs.

Well im a portrai photographer, I mostly use it for retouching, blemishes, resizing images etc.. all my heavy work is done in lightroom


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yamatama
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Dec 10, 2013 06:55 |  #18

So this is my updated cart, I added more RAM and ditched the video card.. Still have to check the other mobo recommended.

Question
Do I need to purchase a fan for this build? also I assume I need to pickup a wireless network adapter right? Also I was recommended this (external link)monitor. Any feedback on it?

Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, but I want to do things the right way :)

PCPartPicker part list (external link) / Price breakdown by merchant (external link) / Benchmarks (external link)

CPU: Intel Core i5-3350P 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor (external link) ($176.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Cooling MX-2 4g Thermal Paste (external link) ($4.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G41 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (external link) ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory (external link) ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (external link)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (external link) ($70.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (external link) ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (external link) ($42.99 @ Mwave)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (external link) ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer (external link) ($17.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) (external link) ($82.98 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Dell U2412M 60Hz 24.0" Monitor (external link) ($266.30 @ Amazon)
Total: $908.15
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-10 07:48 EST-0500)


Nikon D750, 35 1.4G, 85 1.8G, 24-70 2.8G, 70-200 2.8G
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Jim ­ K
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Dec 10, 2013 07:55 as a reply to  @ yamatama's post |  #19

I've not looked at the motherboard specs but I'm curious about the memory on your list. You have 2x4GB of 1333 memory and 2x4GB of 1866 memory. I think this would force the faster memory to run at the same, slower speed of the 1333.

I think 2x8GB would be better allowing you to add more memory if you need it down the road for video or something.


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hairy_moth
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Dec 10, 2013 08:25 |  #20

Personally, I would never build a PC again. You obviously know what you need (and what you want).
I suggest looking for a higher end, off the shelf computer from one of the respected manufacturers (e.g., HP). All you really need is: fast processor (it never pays to get the fastest), lots of memory. Start with 8GB (maybe 16) but make sure you can expand to at least 16, 32 is better. I don't think any software out now needs more than 8GB or would even benefit by having it. Any of the higher end graphics cards will suffice and you need a large disk (2TB minimum based on your work), though I like 2: one for the system and backups and the other as the primary data disk.

I would pass on the solid state disk; fast boot-ups are nice, but really, how often do you boot. My system is configured to sleep after 2 hours -- start-ups from sleep are faster than booting from solid state. Cooling systems (other than a fan) are not needed unless you go with an extremely high end chip which also is not needed. Windows7 64 bit is the way to go right now.

Every homemade computer I have used just wasn't worth the trouble. You may pay a little more off the shelf for a high end PC, but you will save yourself headaches now and in the future.


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Scatterbrained
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Dec 10, 2013 11:30 |  #21

hairy_moth wrote in post #16515948 (external link)
Personally, I would never build a PC again. You obviously know what you need (and what you want).
I suggest looking for a higher end, off the shelf computer from one of the respected manufacturers (e.g., HP). All you really need is: fast processor (it never pays to get the fastest), lots of memory. Start with 8GB (maybe 16) but make sure you can expand to at least 16, 32 is better. I don't think any software out now needs more than 8GB or would even benefit by having it. Any of the higher end graphics cards will suffice and you need a large disk (2TB minimum based on your work), though I like 2: one for the system and backups and the other as the primary data disk.

I would pass on the solid state disk; fast boot-ups are nice, but really, how often do you boot. My system is configured to sleep after 2 hours -- start-ups from sleep are faster than booting from solid state. Cooling systems (other than a fan) are not needed unless you go with an extremely high end chip which also is not needed. Windows7 64 bit is the way to go right now.

Every homemade computer I have used just wasn't worth the trouble. You may pay a little more off the shelf for a high end PC, but you will save yourself headaches now and in the future.

I've used more than 8GB of ram while running Lr and Ps together, and SSDs are about more than fast boot ups.


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1000arms
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Dec 10, 2013 11:48 |  #22

yamatama wrote in post #16515721 (external link)
Well im a portrai photographer, I mostly use it for retouching, blemishes, resizing images etc.. all my heavy work is done in lightroom

Do much Liquify? See the link. :)

Curious, at least for PS CS6, what makes use of hyperthreading? RAM usage?




  
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1Tanker
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Dec 10, 2013 12:44 |  #23

hairy_moth wrote in post #16515948 (external link)
Personally, I would never build a PC again. You obviously know what you need (and what you want).
I suggest looking for a higher end, off the shelf computer from one of the respected manufacturers (e.g., HP). All you really need is: fast processor (it never pays to get the fastest), lots of memory. Start with 8GB (maybe 16) but make sure you can expand to at least 16, 32 is better. I don't think any software out now needs more than 8GB or would even benefit by having it. Any of the higher end graphics cards will suffice and you need a large disk (2TB minimum based on your work), though I like 2: one for the system and backups and the other as the primary data disk.

I would pass on the solid state disk; fast boot-ups are nice, but really, how often do you boot. My system is configured to sleep after 2 hours -- start-ups from sleep are faster than booting from solid state. Cooling systems (other than a fan) are not needed unless you go with an extremely high end chip which also is not needed. Windows7 64 bit is the way to go right now.

Every homemade computer I have used just wasn't worth the trouble. You may pay a little more off the shelf for a high end PC, but you will save yourself headaches now and in the future.

I've had less problems with all the machines i've built, versus store-bought ones (except when i've overclocked them wayyyyy too hard, and hosed the OS :lol: ). Why settle for all the bloatware they give you, not to mention crappy PSU's? On top of that, recover disks are a joke.. i want all the apps and OS as full originals.

ie. Motherboard goes on your (insert big name) PC just after it's warranty ends. You're pooched with your system disk, but with a Genuine copy of windows, you'll have no issues.. other than re-registering it. With a system disk, you'd have to buy a Windows CD (another $100), plus any other apps, if you liked any, you lost.

As for RAM, even if no programs use more than 8GB or RAM "now", that will surely, guaranteed...100% change in the near future. Remember when 2/8/16/32/64, etc. MB of RAM was considered enough? Then it was 512MB/1GB and 2GB.. but XP ran out of headroom, with any higher than that (~3.25GB being the most it could use). So... they created an OS that could and would make use of higher amounts of RAM.. and it does.

Best to go with bigger DIMMs (8GB sticks if you can afford them) as well, so you can upgrade your RAM in the future, without having to buy bigger sticks. The only time i don't like the bigger DIMMs, is for heavy-duty overclocking, as they tend to not overclock as well, and place higher demands on the memory controller.

My machine is over 4 years old now (Specs in my gear list), and few generations of CPU, and i will want to upgrade within a few years. The reason i want an upgrade.. i have 8GB of RAM, and can't go any further (4x2GB)..i don't want to invest in 4GB DDR2 DIMMs..too hard to find now, and too expensive...and my mobo would likely choke with that density of RAM sticks.

CPU is fine..GPU is fine for what i want, but a newer model could probably help with photo-editing, i'm sure. Also.. #1 for me now.. an SSD!! They're about more than booting up faster. They speed up application-loading, sorting through big pictures (and as with RAM, our RAW files will be getting bigger in the not-so-distant-future), etc. etc.


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hairy_moth
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Dec 10, 2013 15:14 |  #24

1Tanker wrote in post #16516524 (external link)
I've had less problems with all the machines i've built, versus store-bought ones (except when i've overclocked them wayyyyy too hard, and hosed the OS :lol: ).

Your experience is different than mine.

1Tanker wrote in post #16516524 (external link)
Why settle for all the bloatware they give you, not to mention crappy PSU's? On top of that, recover disks are a joke.. i want all the apps and OS as full originals.

I agree, I normally uninstall the bloat. I always get the original CDs too.


1Tanker wrote in post #16516524 (external link)
ie. Motherboard goes on your (insert big name) PC just after it's warranty ends. You're pooched with your system disk, but with a Genuine copy of windows, you'll have no issues.. other than re-registering

Just like with cameras, things like this do happen; but the frequency is much lower than the anecdotal evidence would have you believe.

1Tanker wrote in post #16516524 (external link)
As for RAM, even if no programs use more than 8GB or RAM "now", that will surely, guaranteed...100% change in the near future.

Agreed, which is why I suggested getting 8GB, but upgradable to 16 or even 32. Memory prices keep dropping; it makes no sense to get more now than you need now.

1Tanker wrote in post #16516524 (external link)
Best to go with bigger DIMMs (8GB sticks if you can afford them) as well, so you can upgrade your RAM in the future, without having to buy bigger

Absolutly agree. I still wouldn't spend the money for more than 16GB now, but I would get the Big DIMS and get a computer with the extra slots.




1Tanker wrote in post #16516524 (external link)
My machine is over 4 years old now (Specs in my gear list), and few generations of CPU, and i will want to upgrade within a few years. The reason i want an upgrade.. i have 8GB of RAM, and can't go any further (4x2GB)..i don't want to invest in 4GB DDR2 DIMMs..too hard to find now, and too expensive...and my mobo would likely choke with that density of RAM sticks.

My experience; I used to upgrade every 2 years, or 3 at the most. My last PC lasted (I believe) 5 or 6 years; my current machine is 2 and and still strong. My point: I believe the rate at which we replace machines is slowing.


The reason for my post.. I run a projection system at church. When the last pastor came in, he went out a purchased a new PC which he had custom built. The needs of a projection system are similar to processing photographs, the only thing we need that is out of the ordinary is the ability to drive 4 distinct outputs (i.e., 2 graphics cards each pushing two VGA outputs). At any given time, 3 of the displays can be displaying text with shadows over motion backgrounds. I have never had so many problems with a PC, one thing after another. I am convinced if we bought an HP off the shelf, with an extra graphics card, we wouldn't be having anywhere near the problems. I had a similar experience (early on) when I build my own 386 based machine.

Best of luck with it, no matter what you choose.


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Geonerd
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Dec 10, 2013 20:54 |  #25

yamatama wrote in post #16515796 (external link)
Question
Do I need to purchase a fan for this build?

No. AFAIK, the 'FAT' boxes from Intel all come with a heatsink and fan.




  
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th3r0m
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Dec 11, 2013 04:49 |  #26

yamatama wrote in post #16515796 (external link)
So this is my updated cart, I added more RAM and ditched the video card.. Still have to check the other mobo recommended.

Question
Do I need to purchase a fan for this build? also I assume I need to pickup a wireless network adapter right? Also I was recommended this (external link)monitor. Any feedback on it?

Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, but I want to do things the right way :)

PCPartPicker part list (external link) / Price breakdown by merchant (external link) / Benchmarks (external link)

CPU: Intel Core i5-3350P 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor (external link) ($176.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Cooling MX-2 4g Thermal Paste (external link) ($4.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G41 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (external link) ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory (external link) ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (external link)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (external link) ($70.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (external link) ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (external link) ($42.99 @ Mwave)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (external link) ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer (external link) ($17.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) (external link) ($82.98 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Dell U2412M 60Hz 24.0" Monitor (external link) ($266.30 @ Amazon)
Total: $908.15
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-10 07:48 EST-0500)

For the RAM, I would probably switch it up to a set of 2x8 gb sticks instead of 4x4 - looks to be about the same price point and you still have slots open to add more if you choose to. At the very least I'd buy matching ram (same brand and speed ratings) - it's not likely to cause any real issues using two different speeds (I'm pretty sure worst case is that it will run the 1866 at 1333) but it's generally recommended to do so.


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patrick023
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Dec 11, 2013 12:37 |  #27

Tony-S wrote in post #16513279 (external link)
Get rid of the video card since it's unnecessary and get 16 GB of RAM.

The P series chips from Intel do not have a built in GPU, so he'll either need to get a video card or get a different CPU.


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Dec 11, 2013 20:44 |  #28

patrick023 wrote in post #16519142 (external link)
The P series chips from Intel do not have a built in GPU, so he'll either need to get a video card or get a different CPU.

Good catch. Didn't know Intel made Ivy Bridge chips without integrated gpus.


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110yd
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Dec 12, 2013 21:55 |  #29

I may have missed something in the 28 prior posts, buy why 3rd gen I5? I would look at 4th Gen I5..

4th Gen I5
http://ark.intel.com …-Core-i5-Processors?q=4th (external link)

3th Gen I5
http://ark.intel.com …-Core-i5-Processors?q=3rd (external link)

Regards,

110yd




  
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tim
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Dec 13, 2013 01:04 |  #30

  • 4th gen i5 is a no brainer, plus matching motherboard
  • Matching RAM, 1333MHz is fine. No real world gain going faster.
  • Samsung 840 SSD is what I got, pro. 128GB is good size.
  • Toshiba HD? Never used one. WD or Seagate.
  • Cheap nVidia card like the 620 may give some advantages, may not. 660 in your original build not necessary.
  • 500W PSU unnecessary, but doesn't hurt. Modular PUS recommended.
  • Consider cooling. Good slow but large fans good. Noctua.

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Is this a solid PC for editing? (building my own)
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