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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Critique Corner 
Thread started 20 Dec 2013 (Friday) 09:20
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How to accent snowflakes?

 
xarik
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Dec 20, 2013 09:20 |  #1

Bad title, but I'm wondering how would I get more snowflakes in an image like this?

my best guess is trying to angle the camera down more so that there's more of a dark background (although this is clutter...I like it but others don't) or shooting further away with a longer lens?

Any help is great, I shot this with my 28-70mm F2.8 L and a t3i shot at 70mm and F2.8 (F3 widest aperture). I was carrying a 70-200mm F4 L lens too but it didn't produce what I was looking for so I put it away

IMAGE: http://i39.tinypic.com/157ncb8.jpg

Bodies: Canon 5D3 - Canon 1D4
Lenses: Sigma 120-300mm F2.8 DG OS HSM SPORTS - Canon 100mm F2.8 L - Canon 70-200mm F2.8 L - - Canon 85mm F1.2 L V2 - Canon 40mm F2.8 Pancake
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xarik
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Dec 20, 2013 09:21 |  #2

Yes I missed focus


Bodies: Canon 5D3 - Canon 1D4
Lenses: Sigma 120-300mm F2.8 DG OS HSM SPORTS - Canon 100mm F2.8 L - Canon 70-200mm F2.8 L - - Canon 85mm F1.2 L V2 - Canon 40mm F2.8 Pancake
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Micro5797
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Dec 20, 2013 09:36 |  #3

I am curious as to how to do this in camera. I think flash is really good at picking up snowflakes, but perhaps just close to the camera with in about 10 feet or so.

Here is a youtube video on how to add snowflakes to an image. http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=aCXBzog1lQ0 (external link)


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xarik
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Dec 20, 2013 09:38 |  #4

I heard a flash will help a lot and I have two manual flashes...but every shot I take with the flash produces an ugly image like this

IMAGE: http://i43.tinypic.com/6ycs1x.jpg

Bodies: Canon 5D3 - Canon 1D4
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gonzogolf
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Dec 20, 2013 09:47 |  #5

xarik wrote in post #16542221 (external link)
I heard a flash will help a lot and I have two manual flashes...but every shot I take with the flash produces an ugly image like this

QUOTED IMAGE

The reason that shot is ugly is that you didnt control the balance of the flash and the ambient. Look at the shadows cast behind them. There is a lot to be learned there. Firstly, it means your base exposure is low so that your flash will be the predominant light source, otherwise the shadows wouldnt be so deep on the snow. Start out by metering as if you were not using flash as all, then add just a hint of flash start on low power and bring it up as needed if you are using a manual flash. In ETTL mode the balance is done for you.




  
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gonzogolf
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Dec 20, 2013 09:51 |  #6

Proof that flash shots dont have to look flashed.

http://www.flickr.com …/21452010@N07/7​170947148/ (external link)

http://www.flickr.com …/21452010@N07/8​603631962/ (external link)




  
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PKmode
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Dec 20, 2013 09:56 |  #7

You need light to shine through the snowflakes. I'd recommend rim light style strobes and yes, a darker background will help make them pop with contrast. Shooting at night with a strobe behind the couple would be an easy way to accomplish capturing the snow falling to earth.

Google image search provided this image, not mine. www.boundlessphotos.co​.uk (external link)
http://www.boundlessph​otos.co.uk …_groom_on_snowy​_night.jpg (external link)


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PKmode
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Dec 20, 2013 09:59 |  #8

xarik wrote in post #16542221 (external link)
I heard a flash will help a lot and I have two manual flashes...but every shot I take with the flash produces an ugly image like this

Get the flash off camera and learn about flash exposures (lots to know). It will vastly improve your photography.


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xarik
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Dec 20, 2013 10:23 |  #9

I don't have a trigger so it's hard to get it off the camera right now :P. I need to learn a lot about these...but I'm finding it harder with a non TTL all manual flash. I don't have a light meter or a TTL flash but I know if I had a TTL flash I would be able to shoot and see what it picks for its settings and then learn from there...idk :P


Bodies: Canon 5D3 - Canon 1D4
Lenses: Sigma 120-300mm F2.8 DG OS HSM SPORTS - Canon 100mm F2.8 L - Canon 70-200mm F2.8 L - - Canon 85mm F1.2 L V2 - Canon 40mm F2.8 Pancake
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gonzogolf
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Dec 20, 2013 10:31 |  #10

xarik wrote in post #16542319 (external link)
I don't have a trigger so it's hard to get it off the camera right now :P. I need to learn a lot about these...but I'm finding it harder with a non TTL all manual flash. I don't have a light meter or a TTL flash but I know if I had a TTL flash I would be able to shoot and see what it picks for its settings and then learn from there...idk :P

No you wouldnt. Nothing in the ETTL process actually tells you what power the flash fires at.




  
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xarik
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Dec 20, 2013 10:36 |  #11

Oh well then I just have a crap ton of stuff to learn on flashes lol! My flashes don't even have power settings marks, they just have 8 lights indicating power. perhaps it's the angle in which I pointed the flash in the last photo...I'll have to find a class or some REALLY good youtube videos on how to use them and all the lighting needs. I couldn't tell you the difference between a strobe or a speedlight :P


Bodies: Canon 5D3 - Canon 1D4
Lenses: Sigma 120-300mm F2.8 DG OS HSM SPORTS - Canon 100mm F2.8 L - Canon 70-200mm F2.8 L - - Canon 85mm F1.2 L V2 - Canon 40mm F2.8 Pancake
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gonzogolf
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Dec 20, 2013 10:50 |  #12

xarik wrote in post #16542358 (external link)
Oh well then I just have a crap ton of stuff to learn on flashes lol! My flashes don't even have power settings marks, they just have 8 lights indicating power. perhaps it's the angle in which I pointed the flash in the last photo...I'll have to find a class or some REALLY good youtube videos on how to use them and all the lighting needs. I couldn't tell you the difference between a strobe or a speedlight :P

Speedlites, or speedlights, are hotshoe flashes generally. All flashes are technically strobes but most people mean studio strobes like monolights or pack and head systems when they use that term (but not all).

I think you need to wrap your head around the idea that a flash photo is actually two different exposure values in one shot. The first is your base exposure or ambient exposure. Thats the exposure you get in the area of the shot where the flash doesnt illuminate essentially the background exposure. The second is the flash exposure, thats just what it sounds like the exposure of the area lit by the flash. Now you are probably saying to yourself, but hey I only have one exposure setting. Yes and no. You can control the balance between the two exposure values with a little practice.

Your different controls are important here. Since the flash dumps all of its power in a short burst the shutter speed isnt particularly important to the flash exposure, the same flash contirbution is delivered in 1 second as in 1/250. BUt its critical to controlling your ambient. If you took a shot like the one above and used 1/200 as your flash sync speed and got the same dark background. By simply rolling the shutter speed back to the 1/50 you would lighten the background by 2 stops without changing the exposure on the subjects. The closer your background is to your flash exposure the less noticeable the harshness of the flash is.




  
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Dawicka2
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Dec 20, 2013 13:13 |  #13

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Click the link (if available) below to see the image in a gallery page.

http://i1157.photobuck​et.com …o/157ncb8_zps60​66587c.jpg (external link)


2 minutes in photoshop-

http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=AEvZ2aJKn7Q (external link)

^^^^ This vid will help. :)

Magic lantern'd T2i, a 1d2n, 15-85, rokinon 8 and 85mm, nikon 55 f1.2, sigma 24mm f1.8 and Tokina 400mm creeperPrime.

  
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How to accent snowflakes?
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