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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Critique Corner 
Thread started 24 Dec 2013 (Tuesday) 07:28
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I am defeated

 
Gart
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Dec 24, 2013 13:25 |  #16

I'm going the same direction that Mark above has stated. Crop out the neighboring homes (not needed in your shot).

Standing at the end of the driveway emphasizes it and the garage. I don't like this unless I am a car. The entryway and the walk into the home should be more the focal point but that is hidden with a tree. Move around some and find a better spot to shoot from.

Other than shooting at sunset or shortly thereafter, if you are getting lighting from one street lamp, can you block or deflect its light? What I mean is could you take a ladder (helper) with a piece of cardboard or something to block some of what it is doing to your property?

Good luck.




  
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advaitin
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Dec 24, 2013 13:46 |  #17

Here's my take. Simple adjustments in color, but I don't what the daylight colors are.


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jetcode
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Dec 24, 2013 13:57 |  #18

There is nothing wrong with your original and it appears the white balance is near perfect. So the street lamps cast yellow on the driveway the colors are accurate. When shooting mixed lighting let it fall where it may and cherry pick the colors you want to rule the content of the image. An example is shooting tungsten indoors during daylight. I let daylight go blue in order to preserve the white balance of the tungsten light. It's done all the time and in professional circles.




  
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Titus213
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Dec 24, 2013 23:24 |  #19

It looks like you've got all the photography help you can use but.....

I've found that if you can hit the sensor on top of the street light with a simple laser pointer it will turn the light off for a bit.....


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snowblower
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Dec 24, 2013 23:36 |  #20

Titus213 wrote in post #16552460 (external link)
It looks like you've got all the photography help you can use but.....

I've found that if you can hit the sensor on top of the street light with a simple laser pointer it will turn the light off for a bit.....

You beat me to it but I found that a high powered streamlight flashlight will do the trick too. Always carry it with me at night anyway just in case I'm shooting in a dark area and need extra light to see my gear.


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Grizz
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Dec 25, 2013 08:45 as a reply to  @ post 16551430 |  #21

Others have given good advice on pre shoot settings. But if you want to save this image I came up with this.


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Dec 25, 2013 10:29 |  #22

mike3767 wrote in post #16551309 (external link)
I probably shouldn't have waited until the 23rd of December to start shooting the 20 places and now even better thinking about hitting the half hour around sunset.

Good advice above on doing that. Use a tripod, ISO 100, & also take a underexposed shot to blend in so you can have a darker foreground.
And if you take some close-ups of the lights, you can put together something like this one taken in the Summer in your spare time: Happy Holidays!

Then, now that you have a solution that works, wait until it snows & go out & do it again! ; )


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seall
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Dec 25, 2013 11:03 |  #23

I don't think it needs cropped.


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M_Six
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Dec 25, 2013 11:04 |  #24

Titus213 wrote in post #16552460 (external link)
It looks like you've got all the photography help you can use but.....

I've found that if you can hit the sensor on top of the street light with a simple laser pointer it will turn the light off for a bit.....

Just make sure you don't miss and hit an aircraft or the guys in the black helicopters will come for you.:p


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Lowner
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Dec 25, 2013 11:04 |  #25

Titus213 wrote in post #16552460 (external link)
......I've found that if you can hit the sensor on top of the street light with a simple laser pointer it will turn the light off for a bit.....

As an ex electrical contracting engineer who spent many hours a week quoting for street lighting, I am anti this treatment of the photocells. They are not cheap and you are basically abusing them (that's why the lights go out when you do it).

Much better to play with the image in post processing.


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Titus213
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Dec 25, 2013 12:26 |  #26

Lowner wrote in post #16553133 (external link)
As an ex electrical contracting engineer who spent many hours a week quoting for street lighting, I am anti this treatment of the photocells. They are not cheap and you are basically abusing them (that's why the lights go out when you do it).

Much better to play with the image in post processing.

OK, you win, I certainly wouldn't want to be accused of abusing photocells....


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mike3767
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Dec 25, 2013 12:29 |  #27

I just might be successful at this Christmas light stuff after all. Thanks for editing my photos and showing me there is hope!!! I think I shot at ISO 800 and if I remember, one of my photos, the shutter was open for 20 seconds. If I were to shoot at ISO 100, not sure if I'd benefit too much plus having a Mark 3, I should be able to shoot at higher ISO's. I might bring flash light and see if I can shut the street light off that way. I never knew you could do that but it make sense. I've looked at the website where my clients purchase the lights and there images are not good at all so at least my photos will look decent. I really appreciate all the help.


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jetcode
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Dec 25, 2013 12:33 |  #28

Titus213 wrote in post #16553264 (external link)
OK, you win, I certainly wouldn't want to be accused of abusing photocells....

The photocells are mounted on top of the light. They are designed to be controlled by ambient sky light and rightfully so. If they were mounted any where else they would toggle relentlessly every time a car drove by. In fact on hills headlights shooting over the tops of the street lamp will in fact toggle the lamp.




  
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PhotosGuy
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Dec 25, 2013 22:47 |  #29

mike3767 wrote in post #16553268 (external link)
I just might be successful at this Christmas light stuff after all. Thanks for editing my photos and showing me there is hope!!! I think I shot at ISO 800 and if I remember, one of my photos, the shutter was open for 20 seconds. If I were to shoot at ISO 100, not sure if I'd benefit too much plus having a Mark 3, I should be able to shoot at higher ISO's. I might bring flash light and see if I can shut the street light off that way. I never knew you could do that but it make sense. I've looked at the website where my clients purchase the lights and there images are not good at all so at least my photos will look decent. I really appreciate all the help.

The first image was...
Camera Model: Canon EOS 5D Mark III
Image Date: 2013-12-23 22:03:43 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 17.0mm
Aperture: f/6.6
Exposure Time: 1.600 s
ISO equiv: 500
Orientation: Normal
GPS Coordinate: undefined, undefined


My first thought is "Why f/6.6? with a 17mm lens?" I think that you could open it up, carefully choose your focus point, & get the same quality at a lower ISO.
http://www.cambridgein​colour.com/tutorials/D​OF-calculator.htm (external link)


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
Classic Carz, Racing, Air Show, Flowers.
Find the light... A few Car Lighting Tips, and MOVE YOUR FEET!
Have you thought about making your own book? // Need an exposure crutch?
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bumpintheroad
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Dec 25, 2013 23:24 |  #30

How about a couple of captures with the Christmas lights off to get good exposure and white balance on the house and keep the roof and sky from dropping completely out, then combine in Photoshop with captures of the Christmas lights? So much the better if you can get a flashlight up high enough to turn-off the street light, but I agree that you shouldn't use a laser to do so.


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I am defeated
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