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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 30 Dec 2013 (Monday) 09:42
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Help with the lens purchase or Settings

 
EOS5DC
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Dec 30, 2013 12:37 |  #16
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Point taken. I just noticed that at ISO 400, 1/160 & f/5.6 my 430EX II reports 30' max range. All else the same, switching to 1/200 (requires HSS on 6D) cuts my effective range to 10', according to the flash. I learned something today. Thanks.


Bodies: 60D, 6D.
EFs: 15-85, 10-22
EF: 28-75, 35 f/2 IS, Σ70-200 OS, 100-400L
Flash: 580EX II, 430 EX II

  
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JeffreyG
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Dec 30, 2013 12:37 |  #17

EOS5DC wrote in post #16564328 (external link)
BBAF allows the user to maintain continuous focus without trying to maintain a half-press on the shutter button. It is just plain easier to do.

For you. I actually find it awkward and so I only use it in times where I really need to engage AF function off and on while shooting independently. And please, I'm really not picking a fight so if my tone suggests that please forgive me.

For that alone, it is invaluable. No one suggested, anywhere, that BBAF yields better focus, or corrects any camera issues.

Well, you did suggest back-button focus to the OP before we even know why her shots are blurry, let alone why they are out of focus if indeed they are out of focus.

And again, I should not single you out as my frustration with this topic spans a lot of discussions and a lot of posters. But as soon as someone posts about issues with focus accuracy (in this case, maybe with focus accuracy), a half dozen responses will tell them to use the back button.

And there plenty of ways to create focus problems that won't be solved by changing where the focus button is located. The number one issue I tend to see with shooting action is people who do not rigorously keep the active AF point on the subject ahead of taking the shot.

I also see people allowing the camera to pick the active AF point, people who do not begin AF tracking early enough, people who are in the wrong focus mode, people who do not place active AF points on high contrast targets etc. That is really why I'd like to see an example from the OP.

It could even be that the 18-55 IS lens isn't capable of keeping up with the subjects, but that will probably only be the case if the subjects are both very close and moving fast.


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I use a Canon 5DIII and a Sony A7rIII

  
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EOS5DC
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Dec 30, 2013 12:44 |  #18
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Yes, it does work for me. I agree with you that it is not for everyone. Few settings are. Suggesting BBAF without knowing the cause of the blurriness is premature, at best. It is not a cure for OOF shots. It is simply a different way of doing things.

The biggest cause of OOF shots in AI-Servo for me is, as you stated, inability to properly track the subject.


Bodies: 60D, 6D.
EFs: 15-85, 10-22
EF: 28-75, 35 f/2 IS, Σ70-200 OS, 100-400L
Flash: 580EX II, 430 EX II

  
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Ralph ­ III
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Dec 30, 2013 12:54 |  #19

As others have noted, your equipment is more than adequate to accomplish what you desire robienyshe.

It really depends on what issue you're having. Is it a motion blur or out of focus issue?

You should set your camera to Al Servo for focus issue and consider center point focus. Then there are a couple of ways to overcome the motion blur issues.

1) Yes, you could go for a fast shutter speed and set your flash to HSS. That however is probably unnecessary in this case, as Jeffrey was noting, and could actually be more detrimental because it drastically limits your flashes output. I only use HSS outdoors, as the desire is to limit the excessively and uncontrollable outdoor lighting.

2) In this case where the indoor lighting is very dim; the best setup (IMHO) would be to adjust your camera to completely underexpose the image (black) and let your flash do the job. So a setting of 1/250, ISO 400 -, f3.5 + would probably suffice. Now turn on your flash and shoot away. The burst of the flash is so fast that it will stop the action. You should try to bounce (with or without a stofen) for best results.

You don't need a fast lens or aperture setting (f1.8, f2.8) because in this case you are relying on your flash. In addition, those setting will most likely hinder your desired output especially if dealing with multiple kids...

God Bless,
Ralph


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mike_311
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Dec 30, 2013 13:05 |  #20

i'm trying to figure out where all this talk of cutting down the ambient is coming from, talk about making photos without wow factor.


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JeffreyG
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Dec 30, 2013 13:13 |  #21

mike_311 wrote in post #16564442 (external link)
i'm trying to figure out where all this talk of cutting down the ambient is coming from, talk about making photos without wow factor.

Because the OP is trying to freeze action in low light (indoors). The straightforward way to do that is to light the subject with a bounced flash from a Speedlight.

Ambient light will cause ghosting and blur.

And yes, it is possible to take reasonably attractive shots with a single, on-camera flash.


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My personal stuff:http://www.flickr.com/​photos/jngirbach/sets/ (external link)
I use a Canon 5DIII and a Sony A7rIII

  
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EOS5DC
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Dec 30, 2013 13:42 |  #22
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mike_311 wrote in post #16564442 (external link)
i'm trying to figure out where all this talk of cutting down the ambient is coming from, talk about making photos without wow factor.

What?


Bodies: 60D, 6D.
EFs: 15-85, 10-22
EF: 28-75, 35 f/2 IS, Σ70-200 OS, 100-400L
Flash: 580EX II, 430 EX II

  
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lovemyram4x4
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Dec 30, 2013 13:53 |  #23

Here's an extreme example of cutting down ambient and how the speedlite will freeze action, I also have similar shots with ambient only slightly underexposed and action adequately frozen by the speedlight. Indoors the speedlite will likely also light up the room(if not to large).

IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5539/9671655165_87280f0d99_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …s/83602155@N04/​9671655165  (external link)

Using second curtain sync help for better action shots if exposure is closer to being correct for ambient, as any ghosting while just give the feeling of speed.



  
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vengence
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Dec 30, 2013 14:06 |  #24

If you are using a flash because there isn't enough ambient (as opposed to creatively like the photographs you'll see on the strobist' blog), then by definition it'll be easy to kill the ambient light with a low ISO and reasonable aperture and max sync shutter speed. 1/200, f/10, ISO 100 is going to murder any ambient inside lighting.

OP, just an FYI, flashes are only lit for ~1/2000 of a second regardless of how long your shutter is open, unless you use HSS.




  
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mike_311
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Dec 30, 2013 14:08 |  #25

EOS5DC wrote in post #16564533 (external link)
What?

um it was a birthday party, why wouldn't you want the ambient?

OP, just crank the ISO. Forget the flash.


Canon 5d mkii | Canon 17-40/4L | Tamron 24-70/2.8 | Canon 85/1.8 | Canon 135/2L
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Flickr (external link) | 500px (external link) | About me

  
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EOS5DC
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Dec 30, 2013 14:42 |  #26
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mike_311 wrote in post #16564594 (external link)
um it was a birthday party, why wouldn't you want the ambient?

OP, just crank the ISO. Forget the flash.

Thanks. I understand that. I took your previous post to mean it was not possible to get a good photograph in other than ambient light.


Bodies: 60D, 6D.
EFs: 15-85, 10-22
EF: 28-75, 35 f/2 IS, Σ70-200 OS, 100-400L
Flash: 580EX II, 430 EX II

  
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madasax
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Dec 30, 2013 14:51 |  #27

Rather than getting into a back and fourth of use/dont use flash - Just take into consideration everything said - Use M mode, bump up the shutter speed and ISO to a useable amount to capture the image YOU want from the camera - Yes bouncing flash is very helpful indoors and I had to use my Flash to get some better Lowlight pics around christmas - For the pic that I wanted to turn out - Sharp in focus Kids opening presents. I would not bother buying a lens that will set you out money that you dont need to spend.
You have a good lens line up as listed in your sig - Try using the 40mm @ 2.8 to see if the F2.8 range will even solve your problem - I know its not as wide as 17mm but the F2.8 will give you and idea of what that F-stop would give you with your setup - Just a thought. I love my 50 for Lowlight but i hear you with kids and needing a Wider range - Thats why I got a 10-20


Current Gear: 70D - Sigma 10-20 F4-5.6 - 24 2.8stm - 50 1.8 stm -

  
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KirkS518
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Dec 30, 2013 16:23 |  #28

If nothing else I hope we all learned today the asking the guys in the blue shirts is not how you get good photographic advice.... :/


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madasax
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Dec 30, 2013 22:49 |  #29

yea while im sure some of the people at best buy may know a little i would not rely on them to steer me into buying a lens/gear i dont need. that however is their job to sell products. i would just read up on what you are looking into and come here for questions about gear like you did! I have tried to talk to them before.........guy seemed lost about DSLRs


Current Gear: 70D - Sigma 10-20 F4-5.6 - 24 2.8stm - 50 1.8 stm -

  
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DreDaze
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Dec 30, 2013 23:12 |  #30

posting a pic with your settings in tact will do wonders for helping you achieve what you want.

KirkS518 wrote in post #16564949 (external link)
If nothing else I hope we all learned today the asking the guys in the blue shirts is not how you get good photographic advice.... :/

there's many people in here who's go to advice is buying a more expensive lens...


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