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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 15 Jan 2014 (Wednesday) 16:35
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Tiffen or B+W Filter?

 
EOS5DC
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Jan 16, 2014 07:27 |  #16
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Did someone open a can of worms?


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MakisM1
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Jan 16, 2014 07:39 |  #17

EOS5DC wrote in post #16609932 (external link)
Did someone open a can of worms?

Ι was about to add that at 82 mm filter diameter for the EF 24-70 I would never thread a CPL directly on the lens threads. Cross threading is a near-certainty.

I prefer to use a B+W clear (I use them in all my lenses and have yet to see any adverse effects :p) as a sacrificial go between.

Trying to un-thread a tight 82 mm filter is very much akin to opening a can of worms...


Gerry
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Frodge
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Jan 16, 2014 07:52 |  #18

MakisM1 wrote in post #16609957 (external link)
Ι was about to add that at 82 mm filter diameter for the EF 24-70 I would never thread a CPL directly on the lens threads. Cross threading is a near-certainty.

I prefer to use a B+W clear (I use them in all my lenses and have yet to see any adverse effects :p) as a sacrificial go between.

Trying to un-thread a tight 82 mm filter is very much akin to opening a can of worms...

I never heard of this? Is it just a cpl on a lens barrel with that large a diameter? Or any filter? What is it about a cpl that will cause cross threading? Just wondering. Thanks.


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EOS5DC
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Jan 16, 2014 08:07 |  #19
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I believe that larger filters are just easier to cross-thread. I ruined the 77mm plastic threads of a Tokina 19-35. The bigger ones just seem harder to line up properly.


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Frodge
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Jan 16, 2014 08:20 |  #20

EOS5DC wrote in post #16610021 (external link)
I believe that larger filters are just easier to cross-thread. I ruined the 77mm plastic threads of a Tokina 19-35. The bigger ones just seem harder to line up properly.

An old trick that an old German mechanic taught me works well. And is foolproof. Place the filter, screw, bolt or anything that is threaded on the surface that it needs to be the threaded to. Lightly turn the filter, counterclockwise, at some point you will feel the threads drop into the lens. At this point you stop and screw it on. It's a foolproof method to not cross thread any threaded surface....

Ps: at what point do you consider the threads too large?


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Frodge
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Jan 16, 2014 08:23 |  #21

Also, as soon as you feel resistance, you stop, take it off and start over. Screwing filters on should not take any sort of force.


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MakisM1
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Jan 16, 2014 08:34 |  #22

Frodge wrote in post #16609981 (external link)
I never heard of this? Is it just a cold on a lens barrell with that large a diameter? Or any filter? What is it about a cpl that will cause cross threading? Just wondering. Thanks.

EOS5DC wrote in post #16610021 (external link)
I believe that larger filters are just easier to cross-thread. I ruined the 77mm plastic threads of a Tokina 19-35. The bigger ones just seem harder to line up properly.

Frodge, I am not sure what you are asking, but EOS5DC gave you most of the answer. The CPL is more of a problem because you take it on and off all the time. The clear filter (hopefully) stays permanently on, unless I want to remove a tight CPL.

Nothing for you to worry about!... :D


Gerry
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Frodge
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Jan 16, 2014 08:36 |  #23

Always start the threading as I stated above and you will eliminate 99% of cross-threading problems.


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MakisM1
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Jan 16, 2014 09:04 |  #24

Frodge wrote in post #16610096 (external link)
Always start the threading as I stated above and you will eliminate 99% of cross-threading problems.

Good!:D


Gerry
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johnnysart
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Jan 16, 2014 13:49 |  #25

MCAsan wrote in post #16609819 (external link)
Why would you want a UV filter shooting digital? Don't say to protect the end of the lens...that is why there are lens hoods. A UV can not do anything positive for IQ. And a poor one can make a mess of IQ.

I actually wanted to do a side by side comparison. Too see what's the difference between the two.




  
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Scott ­ M
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Jan 16, 2014 14:32 |  #26

Be aware that if you purchase a larger filter size and use step down rings, you will not be able to use your lens hood with your lenses with smaller filter sizes. Even when using a CPL filter, I still like to have my lens hood mounted.


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johnnysart
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Jan 16, 2014 16:57 |  #27

Scott M wrote in post #16610904 (external link)
Be aware that if you purchase a larger filter size and use step down rings, you will not be able to use your lens hood with your lenses with smaller filter sizes. Even when using a CPL filter, I still like to have my lens hood mounted.

Thank you, I didn't know this.




  
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dpds68
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Jan 16, 2014 17:19 |  #28

johnnysart wrote in post #16610810 (external link)
I actually wanted to do a side by side comparison. Too see what's the difference between the two.


UV and CPL do completely different things UV does nothing first on a Digital camera UV rays are taken care of in camera and I use my Hood for protection , and I guess that you know what a CPL can do for you Brighten sky's and lessen reflections e.t.c .

David


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johnnysart
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Jan 16, 2014 18:40 |  #29

dpds68 wrote in post #16611278 (external link)
UV and CPL do completely different things UV does nothing first on a Digital camera UV rays are taken care of in camera and I use my Hood for protection , and I guess that you know what a CPL can do for you Brighten sky's and lessen reflections e.t.c .

David

Thank you David. I'll be returning the UV filter next week once it arrives.




  
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Wilt
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Jan 16, 2014 20:40 |  #30

Frodge wrote in post #16609981 (external link)
I never heard of this? Is it just a cpl on a lens barrel with that large a diameter? Or any filter? What is it about a cpl that will cause cross threading? Just wondering. Thanks.

There is the fact, known in materials science, that aluminum has a natural affinity for other aluminum, so that two pieces somewhat 'bond' to each other, leading to stuck filters. So if you have an aluminum ringed CPL with its rotating section, it is harder to grasp and break the natural bond to the other filter.

However, B&W uses brass rather than aluminum, and aluminum-brass is a naturally 'lubricant' interface, so a brass CPL inherently is easier to unthread than an aluminum CPL.


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Tiffen or B+W Filter?
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