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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 19 Jan 2014 (Sunday) 21:45
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POLL: "Your opinion of MFA"
Dont' have it. No Problem.
9
6.3%
Don't have it. Wish I did.
11
7.6%
Have it. Don't use it.
39
27.1%
Have it. Use it regularly.
85
59%

144 voters, 144 votes given (1 choice only choices can be voted per member)). VOTING IS FOR MEMBERS ONLY.
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Micro focus adjust?

 
jt354
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Jan 21, 2014 23:04 |  #61

I have a 60D and wish it had MFA, although none of my current lenses exhibit noticeable front/back focus. Several previous lenses I've owned or tested have had focus problems however - come to think of it I think they were pretty much all Sigmas...although the Canon 85mm f/1.8 I had was pretty bad too. The worst issue is when I've had a lens that just "hunts," like my Tamron 70-300mm or Canon 100mm macro. Nothing to do then but switch to manual focus.


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ejenner
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Jan 21, 2014 23:33 as a reply to  @ post 16622151 |  #62

I don't use it with zooms or anything with a max aperture greater than f2.8.

For fast primes, it has been very useful to me.


Edward Jenner
5DIV, M6, GX1 II, Sig15mm FE, 16-35 F4,TS-E 17, TS-E 24, M11-22, M18-150 ,24-105, T45 1.8VC, 70-200 f4 IS, 70-200 2.8 vII, Sig 85 1.4, 100L, 135L, 400DOII.
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Jan 21, 2014 23:36 |  #63

TeamSpeed wrote in post #16624603 (external link)
If you understand what the values are (1 step = 1/8 DOF at wide open), it becomes easier. Throw a high contrast toy in the grass or carpet, get back far enough to fill the center AF with the object edges, focus, and take a shot. Depending on a) how large your DOF appears to be using the grass or carpet shag and b) how far out of focus the object seems to be, then adjust your value accordingly, + values to push focus away from you, and - values to bring focus closer. On the football field, I use the 10 yd markers, etc.

I use players' shoes on the basketball court for this, for example. Shoot the shoe of a player sitting down, look where his shoe lies in the focal plane, and adjust. Different lighting requires different MFA values sometimes.

I designed my Focus Genie to help a bit with this, and I use that sometimes too, but usually only when I get new lenses and want to test them out.

TeamSpped,
Thanks for the tips, but . . . well, it seems as if you still have to actually look at something and decide what is sharp and what isn't (see what I made bold above).
The weak link will still be my eyes and their ability to determine absolute sharpness. I do wish there was a method of achieving MFA whereby some machine/device (preferably the camera itself) would tell me what is sharp, so that I don't have to rely on my faulty eyes and oft-wrong brain to make that determination.


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EOS5DC
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Jan 21, 2014 23:40 |  #64
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Tom Reichner wrote in post #16625971 (external link)
TeamSpped,
Thanks for the tips, but . . . well, it seems as if you still have to actually look at something and decide what is sharp and what isn't (see what I made bold above).
The weak link will still be my eyes and their ability to determine absolute sharpness. I do wish there was a method of achieving MFA whereby some machine/device (preferably the camera itself) would tell me what is sharp, so that I don't have to rely on my faulty eyes and oft-wrong brain to make that determination.

I think the 'Green Dot' method does exactly what you are looking for. No visual determinations required.


Bodies: 60D, 6D.
EFs: 15-85, 10-22
EF: 28-75, 35 f/2 IS, Σ70-200 OS, 100-400L
Flash: 580EX II, 430 EX II

  
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Paulstw
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Jan 22, 2014 05:46 |  #65

What version of FoCAl do you need to just calibrate a lens with no fuss? The pro version looks like too much stuff for one lens and body.




  
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bratkinson
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Jan 22, 2014 06:09 |  #66

I initially used FoCal with my 5D mark iii. I liked the ease of using it and other than the necessity to make some of FoCals' adjustments manually for the camera, the results it gave were an improvement over not microfocusing...that was with 5 Ls and an 85 f1.8.

But, as most of my photography is done from the 50-100 feet to subject range, the 30' or so I used with Focal, I reasoned I needed to redo it at perhaps 75 feet. Realizing that Focal would likely have a hard time at, say, the 24mm end of my 24-105, I opted for Lens Align Pro and set it up outdoors. The results were, on average, plus/minus 1 or 2 from what I got with FoCal. I'm now a completely happy camper with the absolutely dead-on, incredibly sharp focused results I'm now getting. As an amateur, I'll probably repeat the process next summer, just in case something needs a small tweak or two.

edit: forgot to mention...when I had my 60D, my 24-105 seemed a tad soft, and the 85 f1.8 was less than ideal as well. After FoCal and then Lens Align...perfect!


"Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity." General George S Patton, Jr 1885-1945

  
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number ­ six
"After 40 [50] years still not housebroken, I still piddle on the carpet"
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Jan 22, 2014 14:43 |  #67

Tom Reichner wrote in post #16625971 (external link)
TeamSpped,
Thanks for the tips, but . . . well, it seems as if you still have to actually look at something and decide what is sharp and what isn't (see what I made bold above).

Some targets are much easier to judge than others. I find I can get reliable, repeatable results from an ISO 12233 chart:


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Not this one, of course, which is much too small. You can download a PDF image here: http://www.graphics.co​rnell.edu/~westin/misc​/res-chart.html (external link)

I had mine printed on 12 X 18 inch glossy paper at Costco. I think it cost me $3.

The judgement between shots is much easier when you can look at the fine lines in the middle and just have to decide whether your current shot shows 16 or 18 or whatever.

-js

"Be seeing you."
50D - 17-55 f/2.8 IS - 18-55 IS - 28-105 II USM - 60 f/2.8 macro - 70-200 f/4 L - Sigma flash
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segami21
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May 07, 2015 18:06 |  #68

Well here has been my thing with MFA. I drove myself mad trying to adjust my lenses. Now I sent a body and my 500 f4 to canon pro services and they said there was a problem with a part on the camera that kept focus consistency. ok I give them that. 500 bucks later I'm at it again. long story short when I slowed down thought about what I was doing put myself into a semi controlled environment, cleared all of the settings in the camera and just shot everything was perfect. There where even other features of the camera that started working as well. Point is I compounded the problem by changing things over and over again. If you keep making adjustments on adjustments to the MFA and the overwhelming amount of focus settings that are in most of these cameras today it's a wonder the dam thing can even take an image anymore. If I never knew about the setting than there would not have been an issue and I would have been out making amazing images. Put your lens on your camera go out and shoot it's not the camera or the lens it the photographer, We are our own worst enemy.




  
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TeamSpeed
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May 08, 2015 07:05 |  #69

There aren't that many changes you can make to affect focus. The focusing mode (manual point, expansion points, etc), AF method (One Shot vs Servo), and the MFA values are about it.

It is always a good idea to complete reset all settings and custom functions though if you are having big issues. Start back with a factory configuration and methodically work through your settings.


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anscochrome
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May 08, 2015 09:29 |  #70

I just purchased a Canon 760D (Rebel T6s) to replace an old 450D (Rebel XSI). Am I worried that it does not have MFA? Not in the least. It is used with mostly slow "kit" lenses (18-55mm STM, 55-250mm STM), where the natural depth of field takes care of most of the errors. We are in this era of internet photography, where forum denizen copycats think they have to do the same thing "everyone else" is doing: 1. shoot every lens wide open all the time. 2. shoot birds in flight all the time.

I think this narrow application of photography has exacerbated the "crippling" problem with MFA need.


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ICee
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May 09, 2015 13:06 |  #71

Frodge wrote in post #16620568 (external link)
I'm not trying to sound like a hard ass. But the fact that canon puts mfa into these bodies, is kind of an admittance that their qc is not tight enought from lens to lens and body to body. I know, I'm asking a lot. It would be like having to calibrate your speedometer on a brand new car, or check the timing constantly.

It's not just Canon that putting Mfa into there cameras but I agree that with the price of cameras and lens they should be spot on from the factory.




  
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hollis_f
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May 09, 2015 15:56 as a reply to  @ ICee's post |  #72

I suggest you go off and do some research into MICRO focus adjust and learn what the phrase 'manufacturing tolerances' means.


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SixDeeFan
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May 10, 2015 08:58 |  #73

hollis_f wrote in post #17549799 (external link)
I suggest you go off and do some research into MICRO focus adjust and learn what the phrase 'manufacturing tolerances' means.

I almost forgot from my earlier life how much "fun" your advice can be!


Canon 90D | Tamron SP 35 f/1.4L DI | Tamron SP 15-30 f/2.8 DI VC G2 | Tamron SP 24-70 f/2.8 DI VC G2 | Tamron SP 70-200 f/2.8 Di VC G2 | Tamron SP 2X Pro TC | Tamron TAP-in Console

  
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saea501
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May 10, 2015 10:33 |  #74

SixDeeFan wrote in post #17550502 (external link)
I almost forgot from my earlier life how much "fun" your advice can be!

They're all fun........


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yogestee
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Post edited over 4 years ago by yogestee.
     
May 11, 2015 22:22 |  #75

The need to MFA can depend on the lens/camera combination. I needed to MFA some of my lenses to suit my 50D but were fine on my 20D and 700D.


Jurgen
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Micro focus adjust?
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