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Thread started 13 Dec 2013 (Friday) 23:44
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Tamron SP 150-600mm Di VC USD

 
therobveiller
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Jan 29, 2014 11:54 |  #1081

JVthePT wrote in post #16643681 (external link)
I'm very jealous of you guys! I haven't been able to get out and shoot and what shots I've taken recently, either through the window or with window open look soft or slightly OOF. I've tried to MFA but don't feel confident that I'm making a positive change. If I can't get some sharp images soon I'm gonna send it back.

You might find Dustin Abbot's comments about this lens helpful towards the end of his review here.
http://dustinabbott.ne​t …-f5-6-3-di-vc-usd-review/ (external link)

I infer from your post that you are shooting from inside a warm room to outside cold air? To quote part of Justin's text regarding a batch of soft pictures from the lens...
" I would be shooting from the passenger side of the vehicle through the open driver’s side window, but there was about 3-4 feet of warm air (probably about 18C) in the vehicle. That large temperature variation (almost 40C) was causing distortion (astronomers call them “tube currents”) that affected the sharpness of my images."

It sounds like that is exactly the problem you are experiencing - I may be wrong, but...




  
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tickerguy
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Jan 29, 2014 12:01 |  #1082

archer1960 wrote in post #16647072 (external link)
During a half-press, yes it tracks. But not *during* a burst (all the shots in the burst are at the same focus point). And that is what I misread about the first post in this series; somehow I got the idea that he was referring to focusing during a burst, not just while servo focusing.

How is the camera set? You can opt for preference on shutter release or focus lock; if you opt for release the camera will do what it can, but the maximum burst rate will be maintained and if it cannot acquire a solution before the curtain goes up the next time it doesn't change focus. That option on my body can be different between the first and subsequent frames in a burst; I have it set for first frame focus lock preference, subsequent release on the premise that the burst rate is not a means of "bracketing" subject location and framing but rather a means of getting a couple of quick follow-up exposures if I "miss" on my framing the first time.


Canon 7D & 5d3, EF-S 15-85, 24-105L, 70-200L f/4 IS, 100mm Macro/L, EF 50 f/1.4 and more

  
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gabebalazs
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Jan 29, 2014 12:14 |  #1083

archer1960 wrote in post #16647072 (external link)
During a half-press, yes it tracks. But not *during* a burst (all the shots in the burst are at the same focus point). And that is what I misread about the first post in this series; somehow I got the idea that he was referring to focusing during a burst, not just while servo focusing.

Hm... that seems odd.

Here it is from the T1i manual, page 50, in reference to shooting in SPORTS mode (which uses AI Servo):

Talks about half pressing the shutter button first, then:

"When you want to take the picture, press the shutter button completely. If you hold down the shutter button, continuous shooting (max. approx. 3.4 shots per sec.) and autofocusing will take effect."

Also, page 68, talking about continuous shooting:

"When AI Servo is set, focusing will be continuous during continuous shooting."

http://gdlp01.c-wss.com …eosrti-eos500d-im2-en.pdf (external link)

So if your T1i doesn't focus during burst in AI Servo, then something is either wrong with it, or some setting is messed up.
All my Canon bodies work and worked the same way (14 of them that I've owned through the years).


SONY A7RIII | SONY A7III | SONY RX10 IV | SONY RX100 | 24-70 2.8 GM | 70-200 2.8 GM | 16-35 F/4 | PZ 18-105 F/4 | FE 85 1.8 | FE 28-70 | SIGMA 35 1.4 ART | SIGMA 150-600 C | ROKINON 14 2.8
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Kickflipkid687
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Jan 29, 2014 12:20 as a reply to  @ post 16610726 |  #1084

I've had the Tamron track ducks swimming around just fine, from what I could tell. I haven't gotten to use it for BIF alot yet, but using 15M - Infinity definitely seems to help alot in that case. I know it's not the same, but like I mentioned before, I could track a 747 that was miles away I think, just fine. Although, they are bright white, so it probably grabbed it alot easier that way.


My Flickr page - https://www.flickr.com​/photos/86957042@N07/ (external link)

  
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Kickflipkid687
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Jan 29, 2014 12:20 as a reply to  @ post 16610726 |  #1085

By the way, did you send it back Gabe?


My Flickr page - https://www.flickr.com​/photos/86957042@N07/ (external link)

  
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gabebalazs
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Jan 29, 2014 12:21 |  #1086

Kickflipkid687 wrote in post #16647325 (external link)
By the way, did you send it back Gabe?

:( yes, I shipped it this morning. B&H paid return shipping.


SONY A7RIII | SONY A7III | SONY RX10 IV | SONY RX100 | 24-70 2.8 GM | 70-200 2.8 GM | 16-35 F/4 | PZ 18-105 F/4 | FE 85 1.8 | FE 28-70 | SIGMA 35 1.4 ART | SIGMA 150-600 C | ROKINON 14 2.8
Gabe Balazs Photo (external link)
Nature Shots Portfolio (external link)

  
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Kickflipkid687
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Jan 29, 2014 12:27 as a reply to  @ post 16610726 |  #1087

That's too bad. Well thanks for the great shots. Hope your Sigma keeps working out for ya.

maybe we should get this... ha ha

http://www.engadget.co​m …-superzoom-stylus-sp-100/ (external link)


My Flickr page - https://www.flickr.com​/photos/86957042@N07/ (external link)

  
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gabebalazs
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Jan 29, 2014 12:30 as a reply to  @ post 16610726 |  #1088

Interesting...


SONY A7RIII | SONY A7III | SONY RX10 IV | SONY RX100 | 24-70 2.8 GM | 70-200 2.8 GM | 16-35 F/4 | PZ 18-105 F/4 | FE 85 1.8 | FE 28-70 | SIGMA 35 1.4 ART | SIGMA 150-600 C | ROKINON 14 2.8
Gabe Balazs Photo (external link)
Nature Shots Portfolio (external link)

  
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palmor
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Jan 29, 2014 12:32 |  #1089

therobveiller wrote in post #16647263 (external link)
You might find Dustin Abbot's comments about this lens helpful towards the end of his review here.
http://dustinabbott.ne​t …-f5-6-3-di-vc-usd-review/ (external link)

I infer from your post that you are shooting from inside a warm room to outside cold air? To quote part of Justin's text regarding a batch of soft pictures from the lens...
" I would be shooting from the passenger side of the vehicle through the open driver’s side window, but there was about 3-4 feet of warm air (probably about 18C) in the vehicle. That large temperature variation (almost 40C) was causing distortion (astronomers call them “tube currents”) that affected the sharpness of my images."

It sounds like that is exactly the problem you are experiencing - I may be wrong, but...

I see this happen a lot when I'm shooting from the car in the right conditions.


John
http://pbase.com/palmo​r (external link)
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http://johnwoolleyphot​ography.com (external link)
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1Tanker
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Jan 29, 2014 12:55 |  #1090

Kickflipkid687 wrote in post #16647322 (external link)
I've had the Tamron track ducks swimming around just fine, from what I could tell. I haven't gotten to use it for BIF alot yet, but using 15M - Infinity definitely seems to help alot in that case. I know it's not the same, but like I mentioned before, I could track a 747 that was miles away I think, just fine. Although, they are bright white, so it probably grabbed it alot easier that way.

Yeah, not a hard AF target. The jet probably takes a second or two to cross the frame.


Kel
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RAW-Shooter
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Jan 29, 2014 13:50 |  #1091

gabebalazs wrote in post #16647312 (external link)
So if your T1i doesn't focus during burst in AI Servo, then something is either wrong with it, or some setting is messed up.
All my Canon bodies work and worked the same way (14 of them that I've owned through the years).

Same here. AF works in all modes - this is what (focus) tracking is all about after all. Just imagine you shoot 30 burst frames of a car, bike or bird and only the first would be in focus...that makes no sense whatsoever.

Cheers.


BoKo
Olympus OM-D E-M1X | Oly 12-60mm f/2.8-4 SWD | Oly 40-150 f/2.8 PRO | Oly 300mm f/4 PRO | and a bunch of good old manual lenses

  
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jbrackjr
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Jan 29, 2014 13:51 as a reply to  @ post 16610726 |  #1092

I have a couple of questions to those that own or have used the Tamron.

Assume that you have good light, proper shutter speed, and aperture for a hand held static shot. Was the auto focus consistently accurate? Or would you resort to a burst of shots to ensure you got one good focused shot?

From reading this thread (at least most of it), it sounds like there is a real learning curve in using this lens even for those that have a 100-400 or 150-500. I would then assume that your keeper rate is much reduced in using this lens say versus your other zoom that you have (at least to this point in time). Would that be a fair statement?

Your thoughts would be appreciated.


Jim
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jodelak
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Jan 29, 2014 13:54 |  #1093

'subscribing, this lens is definitely generating some major interest, specially from those who are looking for extra reach but with limited budget, like me :)


... does it really matter?i see with my eyes, i shoot with my fingers.
My Flickr Page (external link)

  
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archer1960
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Jan 29, 2014 13:59 |  #1094

gabebalazs wrote in post #16647312 (external link)
Hm... that seems odd.

Here it is from the T1i manual, page 50, in reference to shooting in SPORTS mode (which uses AI Servo):

Talks about half pressing the shutter button first, then:

"When you want to take the picture, press the shutter button completely. If you hold down the shutter button, continuous shooting (max. approx. 3.4 shots per sec.) and autofocusing will take effect."

Also, page 68, talking about continuous shooting:

"When AI Servo is set, focusing will be continuous during continuous shooting."

http://gdlp01.c-wss.com …eosrti-eos500d-im2-en.pdf (external link)

So if your T1i doesn't focus during burst in AI Servo, then something is either wrong with it, or some setting is messed up.
All my Canon bodies work and worked the same way (14 of them that I've owned through the years).

Hmm. I guess I need to look into my settings a bit more. I never use sports mode; I'm in Av about 90% of the time. I wonder if that makes a difference...


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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Kickflipkid687
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Jan 29, 2014 14:00 as a reply to  @ post 16610726 |  #1095

I don't feel like I've lost many shots because of AF issues personally. It has mostly been too slow of shutter speed, because of low light/not high enough ISO, or too much camera shake. But even then, they were not bad, just not tack sharp, but close to. I ordered a gimbal head today, so I'm sure that will help out for sure.

Using a ball head, it was too jerky/unstable to me, and I'm sure caused some image quality issues. Also I mentioned before, I had it lose it's grip, and the lens swung down rapidly, and luckily didn't break anything.


My Flickr page - https://www.flickr.com​/photos/86957042@N07/ (external link)

  
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Tamron SP 150-600mm Di VC USD
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