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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 07 Nov 2013 (Thursday) 09:38
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Tamron developing 150-600mm VC USD lens

 
MCAsan
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Feb 01, 2014 18:30 |  #3091

Picked up one today from Showcase Camera in Atlanta for the wife. Mine is on backorder and I am on the top of their list. So with luck, mine will be here by middle of the month. Already cancelled my order at B&H.




  
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archer1960
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Feb 01, 2014 18:58 |  #3092

Kickflipkid687 wrote in post #16655571 (external link)
Yeah. Thanks for mentioning that. Maybe I'll get one someday to compliment my gimbal and use that with or instead of the gimbal in some cases/traveling/hiking​.

Also, I was testing with and without VR on the gimbal, and overall I prob. dont need it on, but I do see it helping/did it see it helping with slow shutter speeds. But in that case, I might as well use my cable release and timer.

I found today that it also helped when the wind was high enough to move the camera around while it was on the tripod.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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Kickflipkid687
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Feb 01, 2014 19:04 |  #3093

Even on a tripod with IS or not, it looks like I really need to keep up that shutter speed. Even at 400th or 500th, it's a little too slow for moving wildlife it seems like. Well, or possibly moving outta focus a touch when I recompose to take a shot quick. But, as the "rule" states, at 600mm, you should be shooting at least around 1/700th a second or so. But that's more so handheld I think.

Man... just walked out the door to walk the dogs with the gf, and I look right, and a 747 is flying very low towards me, with some nice light from the sun bouncing off the belly. But of course, I didn't have my camera. Then we walk around the corner, and there was a nice landscape shot of the mountains, with the sunset lighting up the snow covered trees. I am now thinking more and more about getting something like a Sony Rx100 for a secondary camera. The iphone just doesn't cut it for me often. At least if I have to zoom in at all.


My Flickr page - https://www.flickr.com​/photos/86957042@N07/ (external link)

  
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amyandmark3
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Feb 01, 2014 19:10 |  #3094

Kickflip, I think you're on the right path. Just my opinion based on personal experiences, but the 1/focal length rule is for static subjects. If your subjects/birds/animals are moving, even just a little, it's always best to have a faster shutter speed. IIRC, guys shooting sports like basketball/volleyball will want 1/640 or faster with lenses in the 85-200mm range. So, I would think 1/1000 or faster is preferable for a super-tele. If shooting much slower than that at 600mm, any movement by your subject can cause blur in the pics. Again, that's just my opinion... maybe based off the fact that faster shutter speeds cover up my lack of skill. :D


Mark

  
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Kickflipkid687
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Feb 01, 2014 19:16 |  #3095

Yeah. Naw, skill or not, I think I just need to have higher speeds for anything moving. Panning with the gimbal today was really nice though, and overall I liked using it alot. Felt alot more stable and secure.


My Flickr page - https://www.flickr.com​/photos/86957042@N07/ (external link)

  
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amyandmark3
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Feb 01, 2014 19:29 |  #3096

I feel the same way about a gimbal and/or sidekick setup. With a larger lens like that, it makes life a lot easier. When I used it for shooting Eagles in flight, the keeper rate def. improved with a tripod/sidekick setup, particularly when they were fishing. It will def. help with perched/wading birds also.


Mark

  
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MCAsan
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Feb 01, 2014 20:49 |  #3097

Setup the wife's lens on a sidekick. She likes that better than ball head for a long lens.




  
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archer1960
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Feb 01, 2014 20:52 |  #3098

MCAsan wrote in post #16656543 (external link)
Setup the wife's lens on a sidekick. She likes that better than ball head for a long lens.

I'd use a pan/tilt before I'd use a ball head; the side-to-side tipping is a pain.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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jbrackjr
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Feb 01, 2014 21:49 |  #3099

amyandmark3 wrote in post #16656319 (external link)
Kickflip, I think you're on the right path. Just my opinion based on personal experiences, but the 1/focal length rule is for static subjects. If your subjects/birds/animals are moving, even just a little, it's always best to have a faster shutter speed. IIRC, guys shooting sports like basketball/volleyball will want 1/640 or faster with lenses in the 85-200mm range. So, I would think 1/1000 or faster is preferable for a super-tele. If shooting much slower than that at 600mm, any movement by your subject can cause blur in the pics. Again, that's just my opinion... maybe based off the fact that faster shutter speeds cover up my lack of skill. :D

I would agree with this in most cases. The one exception I can think of off hand is when doing an airshow, you will need to keep your shutter speed to 1/500th (preferably less) when shooting the prop aircraft and choppers or they will look like they are parked in the sky.:lol:


Jim
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amyandmark3
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Feb 01, 2014 22:14 |  #3100

^^ Agreed about props. My comments were aimed towards birds/wildlife.


Mark

  
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pwm2
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Feb 01, 2014 23:19 |  #3101

fairygen wrote in post #16636664 (external link)
The 650d (or any other of the rebel series I beleive) doesn't have that function, so if it is that issue, it's something hard coded into the camera that I can't change myself.

Seems odd that they wouldn't test to destruction with the rebel line, as a lens in this price bracket is pretty appealing to occasional and hobbyist shooters who mostly use them.

Note that the lens can't solve what the camera isn't able to do.

If the camera firmware decides to not go hunting around when the AF sensor data doesn't give any information if the subject is closer or further away, then there is nothing the lens can do.

The hunting comes from the camera just not knowing. So it takes a chance by bumping the lens focus around until the AF sensor sees a "solution" and the camera gets able to actually direct the lens to a specific focus distance.


5DMk2 + BG-E6 | 40D + BG-E2N | 350D + BG-E3 + RC-1 | Elan 7E | Minolta Dimage 7U | (Gear thread)
10-22 | 16-35/2.8 L II | 20-35 | 24-105 L IS | 28-135 IS | 40/2.8 | 50/1.8 II | 70-200/2.8 L IS | 100/2.8 L IS | 100-400 L IS | Sigma 18-200DC
Speedlite 420EZ | Speedlite 580EX | EF 1.4x II | EF 2x II

  
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pwm2
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Feb 01, 2014 23:26 |  #3102

bobbyz wrote in post #16637973 (external link)
I really wish this is the case. I really wonder do these camera/lens companies really test their stuff before releasing? Not Tamron alone, look at Canon. Any time new stuff is released I don't think the reviewers really go through checking it out.

They test their stuff.

But normally on pre-series units.

And they can only have a limited lenses out for testing which means that the feedback can't be as complete as when 1000 photographers or 100,000 photographers out in the real world starts to use the equipment. And the test equipment might only be used locally, so not all around the world at the same time in both tropical and arctic climates at the same time.

And being pre-series, they can't know fully about any copy variation that will happen when they start to mass-produce. The test specifications will try to find any production issues, but it's hard to write test specifications to catch problems "on speculation" - it's way easier to update the test specifications after a specific problem have already reached end users, allowing the R&D and production engineers to know what to look for.


5DMk2 + BG-E6 | 40D + BG-E2N | 350D + BG-E3 + RC-1 | Elan 7E | Minolta Dimage 7U | (Gear thread)
10-22 | 16-35/2.8 L II | 20-35 | 24-105 L IS | 28-135 IS | 40/2.8 | 50/1.8 II | 70-200/2.8 L IS | 100/2.8 L IS | 100-400 L IS | Sigma 18-200DC
Speedlite 420EZ | Speedlite 580EX | EF 1.4x II | EF 2x II

  
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pwm2
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Feb 01, 2014 23:57 |  #3103

pmhn wrote in post #16640640 (external link)
Not sure if I am reading this correctly, but you know that you need to turn VC off when on tripod, right? With VC on, you may get vibration due to VC.

I am reading this thread with much interest.

There are no hard rules for turning of stabilization of a lens when on a tripod.

Some lenses do require it if the tripod setup is extremely stable, and the camera is used with mirror lockup etc. But even the lenses where the manual says "turn off", you may actually get better images with it on.

Image stabilization can help if it's windy, or if you are holding the camera because you need to track a moving subject.


5DMk2 + BG-E6 | 40D + BG-E2N | 350D + BG-E3 + RC-1 | Elan 7E | Minolta Dimage 7U | (Gear thread)
10-22 | 16-35/2.8 L II | 20-35 | 24-105 L IS | 28-135 IS | 40/2.8 | 50/1.8 II | 70-200/2.8 L IS | 100/2.8 L IS | 100-400 L IS | Sigma 18-200DC
Speedlite 420EZ | Speedlite 580EX | EF 1.4x II | EF 2x II

  
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pwm2
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Feb 02, 2014 00:06 |  #3104

camahoy wrote in post #16641693 (external link)
Someone said something about the reverse engineering of the canon AF-system earlier. I think this is key to explain the weird behavior. The only lenses the works flawlessly are Canon lenses, there has to be something to that.

Note that it isn't just a question of reverse-engineering.

Canon bodies often have special parameters in the camera to adapt to specific lenses. Take a closer look at how much work Canon did with the dual-pixel AF of the 70D just to make the camera behave nicely with a large range of Canon lenses. A third-party lens doesn't have this advantage. No custom in-camera code to help make better decisions about how much to hunt when looking for focus.


5DMk2 + BG-E6 | 40D + BG-E2N | 350D + BG-E3 + RC-1 | Elan 7E | Minolta Dimage 7U | (Gear thread)
10-22 | 16-35/2.8 L II | 20-35 | 24-105 L IS | 28-135 IS | 40/2.8 | 50/1.8 II | 70-200/2.8 L IS | 100/2.8 L IS | 100-400 L IS | Sigma 18-200DC
Speedlite 420EZ | Speedlite 580EX | EF 1.4x II | EF 2x II

  
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pwm2
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Feb 02, 2014 00:10 |  #3105

Snydremark wrote in post #16641801 (external link)
Also, even Canon lenses don't work flawlessly; I can demonstrate a couple of scenarios where the 100-400 will confirm focus on completely out of focus images (but the incidece of these under normal shooting is close enough to zero to BE zero).
The phase detection sensor in the camera confirms it has seen a "maximum" and assumes it has perfect focus. Just that when the subject has stripes, there may be multiple maxima so the two beams might be shifted and align a full stripe width off. This gets better when having a cross-type sensor and the cross sees edges in both directions. Even better when having a double-cross AF point. But phase-detection AF will never be perfect for a "busy" subject.


5DMk2 + BG-E6 | 40D + BG-E2N | 350D + BG-E3 + RC-1 | Elan 7E | Minolta Dimage 7U | (Gear thread)
10-22 | 16-35/2.8 L II | 20-35 | 24-105 L IS | 28-135 IS | 40/2.8 | 50/1.8 II | 70-200/2.8 L IS | 100/2.8 L IS | 100-400 L IS | Sigma 18-200DC
Speedlite 420EZ | Speedlite 580EX | EF 1.4x II | EF 2x II

  
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Tamron developing 150-600mm VC USD lens
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